Schummie Posted April 23 Share Posted April 23 Some pictures of the progress of my build. As inspiration or help, as I was inspired and helped here. Again some de-paining. Pocher used good paint. But after 4 days in the thinner, the paint surrendered. After brushing and before polishing. The marriage of the engine with gear box and rear suspension with the chassis. I opted also for installing the bottom for more rigidity. Thanks to this topic I installed the roll bar assembly as you can't reach the screws after the bottom is n place. I did install the little silver part, though this picture is the last we will ever see of this part. Another tip from this topic. Balsa blocks on the up side to protect the steering rod when you have the model upside down, and put in some force when putting in the bolts. I use oil on the screws and do 2 turns in, an one turn out. Works perfectly. Again a useful tip from this topic. There was a l ittle seam in the connection to the radiator. Colin Chapman didn't tolerate leaks, so a realistic repair with aluminium tape. Placed the dash. I ended up with a total of 14 wires. In the real car some went down, and in other pictures some went throug a hole on the side. I chose that option. A body part has to be positioned between the roll bar. After removing the bolts of the seatbelts it was an easy en perfect fit. It did't need any glue. So it can easy be removed when you have to get to al the hoses and cables some time. Luckily there was enough room to keep using the bolts. In the next update I'll show some mods on cables and wires. Relative easy and cheap mods which take in essence only some patience. The kit provides a sort of rubber cables from the ignition unit. I replace that with some wires and shrink tube. Regards, Eric 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roberto Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 Hi! Great progress. I found your wip on youtube, really interesting and well done. Bravo. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted April 24 Author Share Posted April 24 Hi, all... a little packet turned up today from Hornby with another length of blue ribbon SB-1, presumably in response to my spare part request a couple of months ago. Since I've built mine with the replacement ribbon I bought already, if anyone would like this piece to match the one already in their kit, then send me a PM and I'll post it along... best, M. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercman Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 16 minutes ago, cmatthewbacon said: Hi, all... a little packet turned up today from Hornby with another length of blue ribbon SB-1, presumably in response to my spare part request a couple of months ago. Since I've built mine with the replacement ribbon I bought already, if anyone would like this piece to match the one already in their kit, then send me a PM and I'll post it along... best, M. PM sent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercman Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 my replacement sb-1 arrived today from pocher, took 2 days after they responded to my email, which took 4 days 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schummie Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 Some progess from the Netherlands for the interested. Did some mods on the wiring to try and make it look a bit more realistic. First the wire on the rogue connector. It goes up, and will ultimately be connected to the dash, the temprature gauge. The kit provides arubber set cables from the ignition control unit to the battery, some sensors, mass connections and so on. I took my inspirations from the following pictures, which were so kindly send to me by Jean B. The green wires are typical for our soecific car. So I used these to try and make it a bit more realistic. A few steps in constructing the mass connector on the gear box. Made from a piece of hollow 1mm brass tube. I took a bit of artistic freedom. Because I would otherwise again mostly look like a black mass of wires. So the mass wire was not partly coverd in black, and another wire I repaced with dark brown. The result of the mods. The woven metal wire to the oil tank sensor is still missing. To fabricate the connector on the oil tank, I started with one of the brass bolts I had, in wich I drilled a 1 mm hole. Then a piece of the messing tube goes in. If you try this, be sure not to drill too deep. The bolt wil weaken too much, and can snap while installing it. Its a pig to remove the damaged part out of the oil tank without damaging a lot. How I know............??? Drilling and tapping a hole for the connector. This is the idea. The result. The wire has a few turns before it goes into the connector. I tried to replicate that also. What goes in, must come out. I try, optically, to have a logical total flow of the wires from one point to another. From the sensor to the dash. A test fitting of the cockpit body part, to see if there is enough room. Tight, but it did fit after a bit bending of the wires. Hope my explaination was clear enough, as Englisch is not my native language, so me most certainly some wrong words or spelling. Till next time. There is light on the end of my tunnel vissible. Regards, Eric 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schummie Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 Oops, one picture missing. Here it is. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roberto Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 Beautiful progress! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schummie Posted May 4 Share Posted May 4 Some mods on the back of the car. I had the oil line under the rear left break disk, but is has to go over. But then the braided wire is too short. So I had to improvise a bit. This is the result. On the real car, the oil hose is attached to the gear box with a bracket en a sort of hose clamp, en a bit of rubber padding round the oil hose. I tried to copy this as good as possible. I made the bracket with some spare FE material. I used a dymmy bolt, because I couldn't drill a hole on that place at this stage of the build. This is in the raw state. Not my best pictures, but here the end result of my efforts. Then some last wiring mods. Also drilling holes proved impossible, so I made some brackets from sprue material from the kit. And the result. The next mod. The exhaust was on the end bracket clamped by springs, So I used the dremel, although my wife couldn't understand why I would cut up such an expensive kit. After a lot of experimenting with different springs and connections I came up with this. The springs were supplied to me by Jean B. In return he wil get some other things from me like wire and seat belt material. I nice tough of our hobby and this forum. Next time we go to the front. Here a sample of a part of the tubes, after removing the paint and polished. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roberto Posted May 7 Share Posted May 7 Nice update 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosco Posted May 7 Share Posted May 7 On 3/19/2023 at 6:44 PM, cmatthewbacon said: I can't see any reason in the instructions why that bottom panel DCA-1 can't go on now. It needs the detail (J-4) added but other than that as far as I can see everything else can be added with it in place... Anyone else (especially anyone who's finished) got a different view? best, M. That is exactly what I did. The marriage of the engine to the chassis for me went rather nicely. Then I noticed the 2 A and 2 K screws when attached, the engine was perilously not FIRMLY in place. So I did just what you were asking, I screwed the bottom DCA-1 in place and it is very solid now. I also did something different with J-12 and J-13. I put them in AFTER the engine was attached to the chassis. There was enough flex in those 2 to snap them in place and then add the superglue to hold them in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosco Posted May 7 Share Posted May 7 On 4/16/2023 at 5:14 AM, mercman said: I have used wicked brick for cases , cheaper than the deagostini,eaglemoss ( now defunct) or the pocher ones I used one for my McLaren MP23-4 https://www.wickedbrick.com/products/dual-display-case-for-lego-dc-batmobile-76139-and-batmobile-40433?_pos=2&_sid=1d3d9f179&_ss=r Another site for a display case: https://www.ixocollections.com/en/accessories/64-display-case-porsche-917-kh.html I've bought 2 already, 1 for the IXO Porsche 917 and the 1/8 Model Space Ford GT-40. Will be getting a 3rd one for the Lotus. Bosco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosco Posted May 7 Share Posted May 7 Well, I got to the part of assembling the wheels and tires. We all know how hard the rubber tires are. So before I bring out the sledge hammer to pound the rims through the tires, I'm looking at information from some of you that have assembled them already. Is boiling the tires in water get them soft enough for the rims to go through? Thanks, Bosco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercman Posted May 7 Share Posted May 7 4 minutes ago, Bosco said: Well, I got to the part of assembling the wheels and tires. We all know how hard the rubber tires are. So before I bring out the sledge hammer to pound the rims through the tires, I'm looking at information from some of you that have assembled them already. Is boiling the tires in water get them soft enough for the rims to go through? Thanks, Bosco I put them in a bowl of boiling water, for 2mins makes them plyable enough to fit on the rims Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted May 7 Author Share Posted May 7 23 minutes ago, Bosco said: Well, I got to the part of assembling the wheels and tires. We all know how hard the rubber tires are. So before I bring out the sledge hammer to pound the rims through the tires, I'm looking at information from some of you that have assembled them already. Is boiling the tires in water get them soft enough for the rims to go through? I left mine on top of the double radiator in the kitchen for a few hours (which is no more than 55 degrees C), and that softened them up enough to go on. Less drastic than the boiling water, and warms them all the way through... best, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted May 7 Author Share Posted May 7 @Schummie you're doing a great job there. I chickened out of the spring retainers for the exhaust, but slightly wish I hadn't! Yours look great... There's so much fantastic detailing here. The biggest challenge (edit: ONE of the biggest challenges) with this kit is the many and various differences between individual chassis, and the different ways they all evolved through time until they have become historics today. You can have really detailed reference, but only of the wrong car in the wrong era, or poor coverage of the right car in the right era, but not really detailed walkarounds of the Fittipaldi car at the 1974 British GP... For example, I managed to convince myself that braided hose goes UNDER the rear brake disc... though it still wasn't long enough! Keep up the good work, compadre... best, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schummie Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 14 hours ago, cmatthewbacon said: @Schummie you're doing a great job there. I chickened out of the spring retainers for the exhaust, but slightly wish I hadn't! Yours look great... There's so much fantastic detailing here. The biggest challenge (edit: ONE of the biggest challenges) with this kit is the many and various differences between individual chassis, and the different ways they all evolved through time until they have become historics today. You can have really detailed reference, but only of the wrong car in the wrong era, or poor coverage of the right car in the right era, but not really detailed walkarounds of the Fittipaldi car at the 1974 British GP... For example, I managed to convince myself that braided hose goes UNDER the rear brake disc... though it still wasn't long enough! Keep up the good work, compadre... best, M. I agree. A lot of those reference books and pictures comes from more recent restaurated cars and historic events. But those cars are often not related to a specific race. Also cars were changed and between practice trainings and the race. Was the back torsion bar chrome or black? And the roll bar? Amazing how much accurate info on details gets lost in just a few decades. But there is still improvement when you add wires to the dash in this model. Even if the colour of the wires isn’t spot on. Also not using painted break disks is not related to a specific type. It’s also a question of how far one is prepared to go. After all it’s a hobby, at least that’s how I feel. For example, those spring retainers had clamps to make it possible to open them. I did not make them. I will however try to add springs to the air box. I also adapted the idea of making the nose cone removable. So that it’s at least on option to show the details on the front of the car. And I still feel that there is also nothing wrong with building the model out of the box. With only adding some extra seat belt ribbon that is. It is still in basic an great, detailed model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosco Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 This is a question for my English friends. I live in Indianapolis, Indiana. My late wife was born in Ireland and lived in the UK. She always told me that unless you grew up in England, you wouldn't understand the relationship between the populace and the monarchy. That was about 50 years ago. With the coronation of King Charles, I was wondering what that relationship is today? Bosco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griph Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 (edited) 5 hours ago, Bosco said: Edited May 8 by Griph Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosco Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 Well I'm glad to hear that. There are a lot of people here that just don't get it. Friends that say, "The Monarchy is useless". I try to explain it to them. Although I didn't grow up in England, I certainly GET IT. I have a saying when someone doesn't get it. Like my auto racing. (How do you watch cars go in circles for 2 hours?) If you understand, no explanation is necessary. If you don't understand, no explanation will suffice. Glad you had a great time. Bosco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elderly Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 (edited) In an attempt to keep this tenuously on topic …… One of John Player’s brands was Navy Cut and the logo was a naval sailor in uniform ( see what I did there?). our tiny village had a great Street Party, but I have to say that the Coronation itself looked like an overlong, badly acted, badly edited, badly scripted, episode of Game of Thrones 😁. Edited May 8 by elderly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griph Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 (edited) 2 hours ago, Bosco said: Edited May 8 by Griph Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fast Eddie Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 On 4/15/2023 at 1:47 PM, cmatthewbacon said: I'm officially calling this build complete. Thanks for all the support and suggestions along the way, folks! ...and the studio shots are on the way... best, M. Noice! I hope mine will look this gorgeous when I'm done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted May 8 Author Share Posted May 8 Can we stick to the subject, folks? I don’t want this thread, which is useful as it grows, to be locked because it’s taken a political turn… Thank you! best, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griph Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 10 minutes ago, cmatthewbacon said: Can we stick to the subject, folks? I don’t want this thread, which is useful as it grows, to be locked because it’s taken a political turn… Thank you! best, M. Will not discuss further Matt. My apologies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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