Best superglue for scale modelling?

[One 48]

I dont use it a lot, but what I have been using is regular supermarket locktite stuff, not exactly cheap either and not very precise in application.

I use it for when this type of glue is called for in kit instructions or for repairs like broken undercarriage legs ETC.

Just wondering what you folks use?

Cheers.

[Troy Smith]

1 minute ago, One 48 said:

Just wondering what you folks use?

 

2 minutes ago, One 48 said:

not exactly cheap either

the multipacks  from the poundshop.   It's gone up(smaller packs) 

2 minutes ago, One 48 said:

and not very precise in application.

you can make an applicator using a sewing needle, clip the eye end so you get two prongs. 

@dogsbody for a pic.

4 minutes ago, One 48 said:

I dont use it a lot,

 

I do. 

 

I use tiny dots to 'tack'  pieces,  either to align, and break apart, (it's brittle)  or to then use  liquid glue to finalise the joint.  

 

On it own as filler, (sand as soon as set, when cured it's harder than plastic)  or more often, mix with talc,  you can vary the consistency, and it's softer.  Sand and scrapes well.  

And this is fast, you can be working on the gap in a minute.    I'd still use Miliput for a major filling job.  

 

I have used it for major assembly,  like you would tube glue as well, but you really want to be sure when doing this.  

 

It's one of the most useful products I have found since a return to the hobby.  

 

I've not brought the branded stuff,  I can see use for the thin and gel types,  but they are bigger bottles,  the little tubes don't really matter if they go off.

 

HTH

 

 

[modelmaker]

In the past you could buy a dozen (give or take) small tubes of superglue from Poundland.  You could probably have given them to babies to teeth on, they were so bad. Post it notes have stronger adhesive. 

A few years back, and needing some superglue I bought one of their 3 pack of small bottles, assuming they wouldn't be particularly good but maybe useable as filler or something. I soon found out they were actually really good. Properly strong superglue, as good as any Loctite etc that I've tried, although I've NOT tried or used any of the modelling brands which cure or fill gaps etc. Having said this I'm not sure whether they still sell this 3 pack, but it's certainly worth trying places like Poundland etc. Hope this helps. 

[spitfire]

I use CA just about exclusively on my models, but for clear parts I use Krystal Klear even though dipping in the other Klear protects clear parts from fogging.

I also use it as a filler but as Troy has said do not let it cure, it goes as solid as a rock, I usually leave it about 1/2 hour before sanding,

It is great for filling around clear parts like wing landing lights as it polishes clear.

If I am inpatient I also use an accelerator and sand straight away.

My usual brand is ZAP, ZAP A GAP Medium CA though I have used other brands.

I normally put a blob (technical term) on a sheet of stainless steel that I have and apply it to the parts with a toothpick, every now and again I clean off the stailess palet with a chisel.

I sometimes use polystyrene cement if the parts require more wiggle room (another technical term) but this is very rare for me.

It lasts pretty much forever as well.

I have used odourless CA in the past but it made little difference to my sneezing.

 

Hope this helps

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[One 48]

Great advice guys, thanks

[dogsbody]

I use this glue, as it's in the grocery store that's just up the street:

 

 

 

I use this modified sewing needle as an applicator. I put a few drops of CA on an old broken Xacto #11 blade. I then use the needle to pick up a small drop and apply that to wherever I need it.

 

 

 

 

 

Chris

 

[Tentacles]

I have a real knack for glueing the lid onto the tube so securely it'll never come off - so I use the cheapest superglue I can find. I usually make a puncture near the bottom of the tube with an old no.11 blade whenever I need to use it - the hole is self-sealing, and I just work my way progressively up the tube until there's nowhere left to stab it. I only really use it for small assemblies I can't clamp - cockpits typically - so it's rare that I'd need more than 1 puncture per session. The tube lasts surprisingly well this way. 
I've tried posher brands from the model shop (Zap etc), but I've always managed to seal them shut so quickly I never felt I was getting my money's worth. 

[theplasticsurgeon]

20 minutes ago, Tentacles said:

I have a real knack for glueing the lid onto the tube so securely it'll never come off - so I use the cheapest superglue I can find. 

Smear some Vaseline onto the threads - it prevents the cap getting glued on.  It will last a lot longer.

[One 48]

Thanks again guys, good tips, gonna make my own broken sewing needle applicator now

[dogsbody]

I did use a small file to help make my needle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chris

[Watto]

I've tried the sewing needle technique  Dogsbody uses and it has made CA and PVA adhesive application, much more accurate and successful.

 

Brilliant recommendation