spitfire

Thank you John, considering that models are my main hobby I was not happy leaving it on the shelf but could not find the motivation to rerstart work on it, but thanks to a simple thing like a DIY job from the boss I'm now back on the case and feeling happier about it. Cheers Dennis

Well can't believe that I have not touched this since July but, after completing the painted on markings I had a rush of blood to the head and broke out the matt varnish, as usual this went very well and I was made up with the finish, however I then realised that I had not applied the stencils walkways or the remaining decals. So rather disgusted with myself I put the Spitfire on a high shelf and left it, but after thinking about it for a while I decided to give it a gloss varnish coat so I could apply the last bits and pieces. so I searched through my paint collection for some gloss varnish, I had not used any for years as my favourite paints Xtracolor and Colourcoats do not need it. I found some old Humbrol tins of gloss varnish and broke out the airbrush and gave it a coat of gloss, this did not turn out well, so not impressed with this the Spitfire went back on the high shelf. It may not seem PCM Spitfire related but bear with me for a while, my wife has been on at me for some time to put some mirror backing on the back wall of my display cabinets to: 1. show off my planes better. 2. to throw some light out into the dining room as where the cabinets are situated it's quite dark. So I searched eBay for lightweight mirror material and got a sheet of acrylic 3mm thick with a silver mirror finish, which with the help of some two sided Gorilla tape was affixed to the back on the cabinet, and it looked great, it showed off my models and threw some light back into the room, just as the boss wanted. However while I was doing this just as a precaution the display cabinet was emptied of models, during this process my ancient 1/32 Revell Corsair was damaged, nothing serious just a bent pitot, I bent it back and applied a spot of CA to the area that was cracked but it broke off in my hand. The model was built in the early 1990's but given new paint and decals somewhere around 2004/5 and I rather like it so a repair was called for. So up to the study it went and onto the bench, a quick drill out of the stub and glue the pitot back in I thought, but no, nothing that simple, as while I was doing this a main gear cover fell off, then I discovered that the main gear leg was broken and was "floating" on the rear support, these would have to be fixed as well as the pitot. As I was fixing these I admired my early 1990's effort at the aerial wires which was (and still is) not my favourite job, and of course I managed to break off the aerial post, so I had to drill out a hole and fix it back into place. Everything was good and I even managed to give the model a good dust and clean, here it is ready to go back to the display cabinet. While I was sitting there fixing things I decided to have a look at the Spitfire, it was such a shame to ignore it after all it was close to being finished, so the gloss finish would have to be improved. When I am forced to use a matt paint I normally just polish the area where the decals are going to be placed using a nail buffer, surface preparation is also done this way so it was out with the nail buffers and Micro Mesh and polishing commenced. This turned out to be a rather better solution than the gloss varnish route and it is now nice and shiny so I can crack on with the build. Next up then is the HGW Wet Transfer stencils, but I'll have to read up on the process that I used on my Tempest build because I have only used them once and my memory is a bit sketchy Here is where I am up to now with the Spitfire. Cheers Dennis

Great Job Mike, those Italian schemes are so good, challenging but worth it. Cheers Dennis

Makatar masks are good I've used them a few times, the only ones I had problems with were the Kabuki ones were I had a problem seeing the joins on the masks but I managed. Cheers Dennis

Great photos, thank you for taking the time to post them. Cheers Dennis

Superb, just superb Cheers Dennis

Please take my money now and send me one. Cheers Dennis

Here's another gem from Edgar: Completely Obsessed Member Members 5,498 posts Posted 23 August 2011 - 10:31 PM 1/. No Spitfire had armour, behind the seat, before June, 1940. Initially, Sholto-Douglas said that, because the Spitfire was the fastest thing in the air, only an unalert pilot would allow anything to get behind him. He, of course, only anticipated fighting against the Me110, and did have the courtesy to change his mind when France fell, and the Me109 became the main protagonist. The armour, on the headrest, began to be fitted in early 1940, and aircraft were converted when time permitted. The first true armour was fitted to the front face of frame 5 (the engine bulkhead,) and this has foxed a lot of people, for years. When the first sets of back armour became available, they were issued in airfield order of priority (Manston first,) not Squadrons, with 11 Group getting first shot, and 12 Group getting what was left. 2/. There were no "plastic" seats fitted before May, 1940, mainly due to fragility problems with the material. Seats were metal, possibly interior grey-green, but black examples have been seen. 3/. Wheel covers were not fitted to service aircraft until April, 1941; initially designed as a counter against snow, they were eventually used against sand and mud. Edgar And never bakelite, which is not what the seats were made off. Cheers Dennis

This should look very smart when the paint is finished, looking forward to more. Cheers Dennis

Here is some info on Spitfire seats from pevious threads More on armour Hope these help Cheers SDennis

Found this thread on the subject, I also have a vague memory of green engines being for display/training, Chris Thomas did contribute to the thread as well. Cheers Dennis

As am I Cheers Dennis

I also had to do some pushing I also had a 500 Matchless with a 350 AJS engine that broke down and I had to push it home, but I also was young and could do it then. Cheers Dennis

This for the latest 2014 kit, I found it a nice build with some faults that needed some help from Barracuda resin sets, here are some faults that were pointed out by the late Spitfire expert Edgar Brooks. Here is the list with my "solutions" though I did go a bit overboard with the resin. 1/. it needs a "Mk.I" oil cooler. Barracuda detail set 2/. it needs the crowbar deleting, unless your model dates after January 1942 (the fit was retrospective.) Barracuda cockpit door 3/. 2-bar rudder pedals are o.k., but need the fabric straps over the top. Tamiya tape or similar 4/. gun button was brass, with a silver surround, not red (post-war elfin safety?)Paint 5/. Very pistol cartridge rack was normally left off, and Castle Bromwich had (red) plastic seats, not (green) metal. Use a Barracuda seat 6/. seat armour is missing. Use a Barracuda seat and armour 7/, seat backrest has an odd depression moulded in, which I've never seen. As for 6 8/. I have no idea what part 40 is (see later), and 41 (oxygen bottle) should be black, not green. Paint 41 black 9/. part 42 (compressed-air bottles) was silver, not green. Paint silver 9/. rudder and elevators' "stitching" is overdone. Sand down a tad 10/. I have no idea what the two "lozenges" (on the top of each wing) are. Remove 11/. unless your Mk.II dates from 1940, the rudder "prong" shouldn't be there, neither should the aerial. Cut off the prong and leave off the wire 12/. post 1940, IFF aerials were fitted, and the position of the discs is marked. Fit wires 13/. if you drop the flaps, the door, in the top of the wing, needs to be cut out, and opened. I will not drop the flaps, no need for action 14/. 50B is/are/were "station keeping lights," which might have been coloured like the navigation lights, but that remains a mystery, for now. Whoops see later 15/. while over-prominent, the "rivets" are nowhere near as bad as the photos appeared to show. Good 16/. the fuselage is about 2mm shorter than the Hasegawa Vb (all at the spinner end,) but it doesn't "shout," and it appears to have better curvature than the (somewhat slab-sided) Hasegawa fuselage. Leave well alone 17/, wingspan and chord (minus wingtips) are identical to the Hasegawa Vb. Good 18/. Revell have matched Tamiya, in the wheel wells, by providing back-sloping walls - very well done - but the "orifices" are too oval. Leave alone 19/. there are three oblong "protuberances" on the spinner, but Revell do tell you to file them off. No problem 20/. Revell have confused Sky with Sky Blue (oh, yes, they have.) No problem 21/. instrument panel is fixed, but is missing the landing lights control. Using Yahu IP 22/. The air scoop on top of the kit’s upper cowl wasn’t for the Heywood compressor which wasn’t introduced until March 1942 on the Mk V, but the Spitfire already had a compressor, which was fitted once the Mk.I went from the “pump-handle” u/c retraction system to the hydraulic type. From what I can tell the early compressor had a small almost invisible scoop while the Heywood needed a larger type which was more prominent. Modify the air scoop and bulges 23/. You'll need the early (circular) HF radio controller in place of the push­button VHF type (37/38); Barracuda cockpit detail set 25/. Kit part number 25 This should be replaced by a circular item rather like the headrest. This refers I believe to the voltage regulator fitted to the fuselage frame behind the pilots headrest which on the kit and later Spitfires is a double barrel shape. 26/. 40 should be fitted to the instrument panel above the pilot's left leg, not on the starboard wall; See 8 above 27/.Ailerons should be fabric­covered, though that isn't as noticeable as some make out (just fine lines where the stitches go); Barracuda wing detail set 28/.there should be two fuel **** levers to the right of the compass (which, incidentally, is black inside and greenish­grey on the outside); Use the Barracuda cockpit detail set, not sure what to do about the levers, probably nothing. 29/.the throttle quadrant has one lever too many (the one pointing forward); Use the Barracuda cockpit detail set 30/.(probably the most difficult) replace the single fuel gauge (bottom RH corner of the instrument panel) with two smaller items; Use the Yahu Instrument panel. This was my attempt at the build https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/66520-last-build-for-2016-a-bit-late/ Cheers Dennis

Just for you Dave here is a mean and moody looking me on my 250 AJS just a few years ago, well a long time ago really Cheers Dennis

I'm glad that Colourcoats came through for you, I've not had any problems with them, and the Typhoon is definately begining to look the part. And Biggles7 I'm afraid that I don't have any scrap doors. Cheers Dennis

A 1/32 sale Stirling, this should be pretty amazing, I have always wished for a 1/48 version but this will be a stunning build. Go for it ! Cheers Dennis

Yup you got it in one, Typhoon, the name of one of my favourite aircraft, though not the one with the jet engine. Cheers Dennis

Spent the day at New Brighton on the Wirral with the family and a display marked Tornado was flying down the Mersey a most impressive sight and sound, then later on to my surprise the BOB Memorial Flight Lancaster made an appearance, presumable both from the air display at Rhyl in North Wales. Cheers Dennis

I'm with Stew, Stormo Magazine is a great source of information on all things Italian, as is Giorgio N. Cheers Dennis

A quick search turned this up. Cheers Dennis

Just this morning got an e mail saying that they are back in business, hope it all works for you. Cheers Dennis

Hi Alistair White Ensign became Sovereign Colourcoats, a member on here (Jamie) took over and has been doing great things with the line of paints, plus he is very friendly and helpful. Just looked at the website and they are closed until tomorrow (15th) Here is their page on Britmodeller https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/forum/549-sovereign-hobbies/ Cheers Dennis

I'm an enamel guy so Xtracolor or Sovereign Colourcoats for me. https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/collections/colourcoats-sea-british?uff_60lqcs_collections=70393732 https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/collections/colourcoats-sea-british Colourcoats ACRN10 - Dark Earth Colourcoats ACRN11 - Middle Stone Colourcoats ACRN34 - WW2 Azure Blue Or Xtracolor https://www.hannants.co.uk/search/index.php?product_category_id=&product_division_id=&manufacturer_id=8272&code=&product_type_id=&scale_id=&keyword_search=&setPerPage=25&currency_id= RAF Dark Earth BS450 enamel X002 RAF Middle Stone enamel X009 RAF Azure Blue enamel X026 Not sure about Humbrol paints, but these are easier to obtain. https://uk.humbrol.com/catalogue/paints/enamel-paints?encoded=LY25CsMwEES_xmpMwBdJGpEipHdvjFhbiiwiac1qVfjvoxww1ZvHzM1DtCPwJrccFkJ_yi_xdJ4NpSlA1MBIh_oRtRzztBPqvLJagY0t3SwfEYLx9QgucqqG5p-uHfPiXfEcxlRX3bm-A4NHm00SO1ijnJaXoRcJicu2vAoyK5JOai9nH0P2zdeU7Rs Cheers Dennis

This is my favourite masking method using paper masks and Blu Tac sausages, pure laziness lead me to use "shop bought" masks. Masking in progress you can see the Blu Tac sausage on the right, You can just make out the gap on the edges. Some clean up necessary. Removing Blu Tac with Blu Tac, you can judge the gap from this Some over spray could occur with this method I removed any of this with a cotton bud with just a whiff of white spirit on the end and only a whiff. Full info here, gosh it was a while ago Cheers Dennis.