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1 hour ago, bar side said:

That’s great - so about in line with the crew door.  I can drill that out & put a light in there, wire it to the one on the tail & use the Arduino set to flash to imitate the strobe.

And thanks for the non self levelling info.  Worth cutting stuff out.  Can’t believe that 30 years ago my 1/72 Airfix Herc came with separate elevators & rudder & this one doesn’t 

A little bit further back than the crew door as the nose rear undercarriage door will be extended with the undercarriage down, and the strobe sits just aft of the door. 

 

Dont forget the navigation lights on the ducks bill or the ground anti collision beacon fitted at the bottom of the fin

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Separating the elevators & rudder.

 

aVTdzaa.jpg

 

Now as they come the leds are a bit big.  But if you take off the wrapping

 

EM3KLbi.jpg

 

Then if you look at the clear lens, the filament is flat & a lot smaller.  So if you take a dreamer to it...

 

PQOHT4m.jpg
 

You can even bend them around 90 degrees

 

UlTZ0ir.jpg
 

And if you are careful they still work

 

IuPxYge.jpg
 

And if you file out a slot for it

 

vjF2Uda.jpg
 

And the inside lights with half the body off

 

JjkpxCN.jpg

 

eJbBHoh.jpg
 

20 hours ago, milli21 said:

A little bit further back than the crew door as the nose rear undercarriage door will be extended with the undercarriage down, and the strobe sits just aft of the door. 

 

Dont forget the navigation lights on the ducks bill or the ground anti collision beacon fitted at the bottom of the fin

cheers - just figuring out exactly where to cut the hole & fit the 90 degree bent over light under the floor.

Now ducks bill - where that?  Going to do the taxi lights under each wing and in each wheel well door.  As well as the wing tip port & starboard lights

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, bar side said:

 

cheers - just figuring out exactly where to cut the hole & fit the 90 degree bent over light under the floor.

Now ducks bill - where that?  Going to do the taxi lights under each wing and in each wheel well door.  As well as the wing tip port & starboard lights

 

 

 

The ducks bill is the furthest aft part of the aircraft. At the base of the tail, there will be two navigation lights side by side facing rear wards

They can be seen in this pic, I know this is a J herc but the K had the exact same lights. 

 

RAF Hercules C130 at Night

 

 

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1 hour ago, milli21 said:

 

RAF Hercules C130 at Night

 

Great picture! 

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That’s interesting - didn’t know about them @milli21.  Is it these built in to the very back end?

 

c-130-29.jpg

 

Can I just check too - the lower anti collision light was on the centre line, behind the open position of the front wheel well rear door?  Just can’t get a good diagram of its location

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7 hours ago, bar side said:

That’s interesting - didn’t know about them @milli21.  Is it these built in to the very back end?

 

c-130-29.jpg

 

Can I just check too - the lower anti collision light was on the centre line, behind the open position of the front wheel well rear door?  Just can’t get a good diagram of its location

Yes the lower anti collision light was on the centre line just aft of the nose undercarriage door. 

 

In that picture you can barely see the lights what you may be on about are the 2 missile sensors located either side of the navigation lights. 

When hercs had missile defences fitted the shape of the ducks bill changed to incorporate the sensors at an angle.

 

If you zoom in on the picture in the link below it shows the same shape ducksbill as the kit and you can see the two navigation lights

 

https://www.google.com/amp/s/nara.getarchive.net/amp/media/food-and-supplies-are-unloaded-from-a-c-130-hercules-aircraft-for-delivery-9b7865

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Cheers @milli21 - I had a go at drilling out the ducksbill lights.  I think I will try and glue some stretched clear sprue in to the holes.  But here it is with an led beh8nd the holes

 

gaJwEKY.jpg

 

I think I will connect the led to the interior lights so it goes on & off with them.  Progress on the tail light.  Second led cut down and connected to longer wires.  This is the tail in position with the light on

 

uv3BiGT.jpg
 

The rudder has come away ok and just needs some tidying up.  I think both that and elevators need anti static wicks adding.

 

So internal lights = 4 wires

top & bottom anti collision lights = 2 wires

taxi lights on main wheel well doors & under wings = 2 wires

port & starboard wing tip lights = 2 wires

engines - 8 wires

 

Must stop adding stuff - I think 18 wires coming out of it is enough

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My hats off to you barside. I thought I was 'tetched in the head when it came to detail, but I dare say I don't hold a  candle to your work. Well Done Sir! I look forward to this Herky bird's completion.

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Cheers Loren - detail, don’t know where to start.  Would like an operating ramp & door, would like open flaps.  Not convinced that a ramp system can be fitted & operate repeatedly.  Flaps are not normally open on an RAF Herc.  So can’t justify either.  Lighting & operating props are great as long as I don’t compromise modelling for it & build a toy. Already thinking some scratch built para seat would be tricky with all of those wires inside.  So it’s always a compromise.  Could rattle it together by the weekend if I wasn’t doing this stuff, but how often are you going to build a 1/48 Herc?  And were would the fun be?  But it is fun, isn’t it?  Like your B-36 & B-52.  They annoy the heck out of you but also make you smile.

By the way the next one is more complex.  1/48 vacform Shackelton. @Kirk wants working contra rotation props.  Do-able from cheap RC helicopters.  But surely a nuts idea.  Good job we have lots of time on our hands

 

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Great work!

Will have to read through all of it!

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Cheers  @exdraken its rambled on for a bit, I a now thinking I don’t have enough paint & most shops are shut.  Oh well

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Definitely. I dunno if its a good thing or  bad thing to be quarantined in place.Give me way too much time with idle hands and an over-active imagination. Plus right before all the bovine material hit the wind generating apparatus, I got an Elegoo Mars printer and THAT really got my what-if going. God help us.

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1 minute ago, LorenSharp said:

Definitely. I dunno if its a good thing or  bad thing to be quarantined in place.Give me way too much time with idle hands and an over-active imagination. Plus right before all the bovine material hit the wind generating apparatus, I got an Elegoo Mars printer and THAT really got my what-if going. God help us.

Nice.  We have a primitive 3D printer and a vacformer at work.  So plans for a 1/48 VC-10 haven’t fully gone away.  Or the F27 project. But the stash of unbuilt kits are also there calling.  RF-4C/E, F-4G, Alfajet, G91 Gina, Lynx.  I think a Herc and a Shackleton would be a good result for now.  It’s nice to not be limited by what you can buy.

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I guess thankfully the build area is a bit small. I would be going broke keeping a supply of resin in and breaking out my Martin P6M Seamaster plans. As it is,It has solved some the final issues on my stalled Great white beast. Those I'm putting together now. Hopefully I have pictures up in a little while. It's a lots easier than trying to bash home made Photo-etch .

 

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@LorenSharp my build area is the unheated garage, so getting time inside the house has been a bonus.  Always liked the Seamaster.  Lovely shape.  Somewhat reminds me of the HP Victor.  Another one i would love to scratch build in 1/48.  Looking forward to the pictures

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On 3/28/2020 at 7:10 AM, bar side said:

I also think the rudder and tail need some angle on the moving parts rather than leaving them all dead straight.

Yep. The elevators always droop on the ground and the rudder is pushed about by the wind, although the pedals are always centred by RAAF crews on shutdown (I'll bet the RAF are the same). Hydraulic snubbers in the boost pack stop any damage.

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Posted (edited)
17 hours ago, milli21 said:

When hercs had missile defences fitted the shape of the ducks bill changed to incorporate the sensors at an angle.

Yes, careful with this. There are three different types of Duck's Ar@e that I'm aware of. The earlier type used on C-130A-E was a small fairing. The later type housed an ejectable aerofoil beacon and then there was the last type with the self-protection sensors described above. You'll need to check your references for he aircraft you're modelling.

 

Great job by the way! Are you going to add the myriad of cables and pipes to the roof? They're quite prominent behind the rear spar above the lighting 'Hog's Trough' down the centre.

Edited by Bell209

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On the subject of cables, check out this stuff. Thin as you like and you just solder through the insulation to join it.

 

Particularly useful for contra-rotating prop projects, though not worth unduly rushing a Herc for.

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On 3/30/2020 at 2:05 AM, Bell209 said:

Yes, careful with this. There are three different types of Duck's Ar@e that I'm aware of. The earlier type used on C-130A-E was a small fairing. The later type housed an ejectable aerofoil beacon and then there was the last type with the self-protection sensors described above. You'll need to check your references for he aircraft you're modelling.

 

Great job by the way! Are you going to add the myriad of cables and pipes to the roof? They're quite prominent behind the rear spar above the lighting 'Hog's Trough' down the centre.

The plan is a fairly early RAF C-130K short body, probably XV200 around mid 80s.  
 

I was thinking of making it a bit more cluttered along the roof & sides especially towards the ramp.  I doubt you will be able to see much ahead of the wing spar.

 

@kirk that wire looks interesting but I have loads of old telephone extension wire to strip & use.  Might group them in to 2 or three sets to reduce the impact of wires leaving the aircraft.

 

Had an other look at the prop motors today.  The only one I have run so far had a not ideal link between motor & prop, made by drilling a small hole in to the back of the prop shaft.  Trouble is the hole is slightly off centre and short of supergluing it to the motor it will keep working loose.  Ideally I would have a push in style connection so that the motor can be sealed in & the props pushed on after painting.

 

KbLYwAZ.jpg

 

So I found this piece of tube that the prop shaft fits nicely in to.  But I am struggling to find a good way of connecting that tiny motor shaft to the plastic tube.  Could really do with some fine tubing to fit on to the motor or even a drive gear for this size motor that could fill the gap.

 

Something like this

 

ECeoukE.jpg

 

This was with a small piece of dowel pushed in to the tube & a small hole made in it to take the motor drive.  Still nowhere near central enough to stop the spinning prop from wobbling.  Need something better but can’t think of anything to hand that would work

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If you don't need the props removable, two-part epoxy (Araldite or similar) should do the job

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Posted (edited)
21 hours ago, Bell209 said:

If you don't need the props removable, two-part epoxy (Araldite or similar) should do the job


Trouble is getting the prop centred so it does spin off centre & lump around.  
 

So bit the bullet and superglued the motor in place.  Managed to find a suitable size metal tube, packed the inside with electrical wire insulation and fixed it on to the motor drive.  Then glued the outer tubing over that.  Drilled out the end for the prop drive shaft and poked the tube through.  Looks like this

 

N8AvZoB.jpg

 

And from the front I now have a rotating tube that the prop pushes in to.  So the prop can stay off until the main paint is done

 

6Z22IjI.jpg
 

Even measured out the length of extension needed to bring the engines forward - standard engine left & plus extension length on the right.  This plasticard is too thin so I will use it as a template and make up 4 sections

 

znuemd5.jpg

 

 

Edited by bar side

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Posted (edited)

The interior of that intake trunk is odd. All you see when you look up the intake is the trunk to the compressor and the cover for the concentrically-mounted Torquemeter Housing. In 1/48 scale you'd probably notice the Temperature Probe just inside the intake, too. I've slid up inside that thing way more times than I'd like...

 

You certainly don't see any of the Reduction Gearbox Assembly, as Italeri would have you think. It's contained in the cowl above the intake lip.

Edited by Bell209

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8 hours ago, Bell209 said:

The interior of that intake trunk is odd. All you see when you look up the intake is the trunk to the compressor and the cover for the concentrically-mounted Torquemeter Housing. In 1/48 scale you'd probably notice the Temperature Probe just inside the intake, too. I've slid up inside that thing way more times than I'd like...

 

You certainly don't see any of the Reduction Gearbox Assembly, as Italeri would have you think. It's contained in the cowl above the intake lip.

I guess it’s something like this in there

 

rolls-royce-ae2100-736x.jpg?w=736&h=414&

 

the Italeri parts are useful to hold the motor in place even if they are not accurate.  But might be able to improve the intake view.  After all I can’t have the engines running & fod covers on!

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Hello

I'm curious if the effort is worth it - a video could convince me!

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What a video off the new drive system working?  Can do that

 

UFBumd8.mp4

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