Pocher Bugatti T50 Coupé de Ville: a resurrection

[krow113]

54 minutes ago, CrazyCrank said:

Hi Steve

Yes I think this could work, once sanded and polished like a mirror before clear coating.

Thanks

Thanks I added to the post.

Didnt want to clog your blog.

 

The second cut looks the best to me.

[CrazyCrank]

4 hours ago, krow113 said:

Thanks I added to the post.

Didnt want to clog your blog.

 

The second cut looks the best to me.

 

Absolutely !

 

[CrazyCrank]

For those who are interested to manufacture home made mini-louvers on a metal plate, i've made on a rush a little tuto:

 

1/ Made a template or the final cutted plate you want with some paper

2/ Draw on its back  the locations of your louvers slits and all other cutting

3/ stick the template with transparent  tape on the inner side of the plate, on all its surface (this will allow not to scratch the paper while cutting the louvers on it)

 

 

4/ with a thin blade cutter, cut the slits of the louvers through tape and template

 

 

5/ cut the shape of the final plate on the metal plate through tape and template

6/ strip of the template and  the tape

7/ Your metal plate is now engraved

 

 

 

8/ you need only to cut all the louvers on the inner side of your metal plate going through the metal plate

9/ then, it remains to stamp the louvers with the special tool you made (please refer to previous posts)

 

 

 

10/ and on the outer side, achieve the work with the tool and a bit of sanding

 

 

 

This technique is very easy to improve by those who own special precision tooling like a micro circular saw etc.

For example to make the slits of the future louvers with a great accuracy and a clean cut...

 

Stay tuned if you like and thanks for watching

[Pouln]

Thanks for sharing this. It will come handy in the future so I saved your tutorial

[sharknose156]

Thierry, you should work on bigger scale, such a master you are with the metal work. Beautiful.

[CrazyCrank]

Thanks guys @Pouln and @sharknose156 @harveyb258 and @Jnkm13 

 

 

Even much better: I've re-done it for my tuto, and I'm happier with the second try ....Maybe a third one 

 

 

 

 

I remains to drill M1 the bolts locations, to apply a metal primer coat, to sand and improve, and then to paint Flat or semi-matt Aluminium

 

Then make the left protection plate, following same process.

 

And then bolt it on the frame rails....for that, i'm expecting new M0.8 drill bits, because the actual do not cut anymore (didn't resist steel rails)

 

 

Stay tuned if you like and thanks for watching

 

[krow113]

Thierry:

Here is your burl sampler. Thickness' are plus what you asked for and L & W are extra as well. The three on the end are the second cut samples as wll as the middle ones. I really hope you can work some of this into your model.

I am walking up to the P.O. right now.

[CrazyCrank]

1 hour ago, krow113 said:

Thierry:

Here is your burl sampler. Thickness' are plus what you asked for and L & W are extra as well. The three on the end are the second cut samples as wll as the middle ones. I really hope you can work some of this into your model.

I am walking up to the P.O. right now.

 

Thank you Steve 

Unless I'm clumsy,, I should be able to make my (goo hopefully) job with this 

[krow113]

4 minutes ago, CrazyCrank said:

 

Thank you Steve 

Unless I'm clumsy,, I should be able to make my (goo hopefully) job with this 

Sent!

[CrazyCrank]

6 minutes ago, krow113 said:

Sent!

[sharknose156]

Thierry which brand of glue do you use when glueing plastic to metal ? slow and fast to dry if any ?

i mean for very small parts and you want to be a very strong lasting bond - if possible avoiding the activator.

Edited December 23, 2016 by sharknose156

[CrazyCrank]

22 minutes ago, sharknose156 said:

Thierry which brand of glue do you use when glueing plastic to metal ? slow and fast to dry if any ?

i mean for very small parts and you want to be a very strong lasting bond - if possible avoiding the activator.

 

It depends on the size and the weight of each piece.

For instance, to glue together the protecting cross member (at engine's  bottom) and its rail's attachement brass pieces (at both ends of the cross member), I used two-components glue ("Araldite")

For very small parts, it depends on the materials to glue together, but generally, CA gel works fine...The condition for this use being there should not be excess stress or tension between the parts.

In this later case, I'll use two-components glue.

 

Edited December 23, 2016 by CrazyCrank

[Roy vd M.]

Great tutorial on the louvres. I will definitely use that on the fiat.

 

Regarding clean cuts, I always bend the pre-scribed metal back and forth a couple of times. It will eventually break, leaving a neat cut line. 

[CrazyCrank]

Little job this New Year day....Scratch built the left protection plate of engine's bottom

 

Not an easy job, considering several louvres to cut, separated by holes for exhaust pipes passage...

As I'm not my usual self actually, I've wasted four alu plates before getting an acceptable one !

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A lot of work remains on these plates (Milliput to repair micro-rips, filing, sanding, primer coating, and Alu flat painting) and on the frame rails to fix them, 

 

Stay tuned if you like, thank you for watching, and best wishes for the new year

 

Edited January 1, 2017 by CrazyCrank

[CrazyCrank]

Hi chaps

 

After a two weeks break, due to familiy good and bad events, no progress in my Bugatti's work, but a bit of work to arrange my home office, to create a new workspace.

 

This was decided by my younger son, Jérôme, who lives in Montreal, when he visited us for Christmas: he was pretty appalled when he saw his father doing some modelling job on a corner of the dining room table 

So, we went to a hardware store in Tours and we bought a workbench, a bar stool, lights and storage lockers....

 

And hereunder is the result of two days job:

 

Workbench

 

 

I've installed on the workench a second plate (pine wood) to enlarge the work space and be the closest as possible of the walls. Then I've installed a quarter round around the plate, to prevent little pieces of brass or plastic etc... getting away on the floor

 

 

Installation of storage bins

 

 

 

 

The whole set

 

 

 

And my Bug on the workbench, with new lights

 

 

 

 

 

 

Actually, all my tools are in the workbench drawers

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It remains to:

 

- fill in the right way  the storage compartments with tools, materials etc. to free space in my drawers and optimize my work

- install new compartments for Styrene rods and plates, brass or alulinium rods and tubes, below the storage compartments

- install the new A0 cutting mat (60 x 90 cm) i've ordered today

- Install several power strips to plug my electrical devices

- and a whiskey distributor 

 

That's all for now

 

Stay tuned il you like, and thank you for watching

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 15, 2017 by CrazyCrank

[Roy vd M.]

That is a nice desk and some great storage facility too. Good thinking by your son. 

 

Watching the model from these angles makes me realize, once again, just how large these Pochers are. 

[silver911]

If I may....as a figure painter of many years I fully appreciate the need for balanced lighting....I would strongly suggest you fit an overhead strip light....to cancel out the strong shadows from your directional lighting.

You have a nice set up...which should serve you well.

 

Regards

 

Ron

[CrazyCrank]

@Roy vd M. You're a kind friend, Roy, thank you very much  My son gave me away the storage bins, thanks to him

 

@silver911  Very good idea, Ron, thanks

 

What do you think of a daylight lamp ?

And if you agree:

- could you give me some references for this article

- and where should I install this lamp

[silver911]

So called 'daylight' lamps/bulbs are very good....but can be expensive....if you go with my suggestion of a 'strip' (fluorescent) tube light....then look for what is called a 'North Light' tube....these give a softer more even light than daylights.

As for where to position it....looking at your pictures....I would have it about 18 inches above your bins....the key is to ideally have it a little behind you...this is to prevent you looking directly into the tube when working.

Any electrical wholesalers will have what you need.

If you need any more help please let me know.

 

Regards

 

Ron

[Pouln]

1 hour ago, CrazyCrank said:

Then I've installed a quarter round around the plate, to prevent little pieces of brass or plastic etc... getting away on the floor

that's a good idea I'm going to steal from you

 

 

Your setup is looking real good.

 

On the fluorescent tubes, I would go with the led versions that can be had nowadays. They are quite affordable (around 25 euro for the longer versions). They weigh next to nothing and they last forever (at least they should). Oh, not to forget that they use much less power than a fluo..

Edited January 15, 2017 by Pouln

[sharknose156]

Incredible that you were able to produce such extra ordinary work until now without a permanent workshop 

 

i recommend some cork-wood plate suspended in-front of you to pin the drawings and plans of what you are doing

Edited January 15, 2017 by sharknose156

[CrazyCrank]

47 minutes ago, sharknose156 said:

Incredible that you were able to produce such extra ordinary work until now without a permanent workshop 

 

i recommend some cork-wood plate suspended in-front of you to pin the drawings and plans of what you are doing

 

Thanks Sam...It's planned

 

[larchiefeng]

I've been having an issue whenever I need to work on the front or back of my Mercedes with the shallow depth of the workbench top. I think it's about 24" and I can't turn it perpendicular to the top and work on it without it hanging out over the top. It's the one thing that I would do differently for the top is make it deeper for the Pochers. It's ok for anything smaller but, it's been a challenge with how much bigger these are. 

It's great that you have a dedicated space to work now.

[CrazyCrank]

4 hours ago, larchiefeng said:

I've been having an issue whenever I need to work on the front or back of my Mercedes with the shallow depth of the workbench top. I think it's about 24" and I can't turn it perpendicular to the top and work on it without it hanging out over the top. It's the one thing that I would do differently for the top is make it deeper for the Pochers. It's ok for anything smaller but, it's been a challenge with how much bigger these are. 

It's great that you have a dedicated space to work now.

 

You're absolutely right, Larchiefeng....

I needed a dedicated space to work on my models, and didn't find deeper workbench (24" so 60 cm), nor deeper additionnal plate.

In the future, it's possible I modifiy that, getting out the top plate, to install two 40 cm plates side by side, in order to get à 80 cm depth workbench

The second issue is that, with this workbench, I've no place to put my legs below the desk, that's why my seat is a bar stool....i can easily work with legs wide apart, and it's not uncomfortable...

 

[larchiefeng]

You might consider making an auxiliary top that attaches to the current top which, is deeper. This would give you the needed extra depth and give you some room to put your legs under the top in the bargain. You could use when you are working on the big stuff like the Pochers and then take it off if you ever work on something smaller.