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  1. Alright. I'll test spray a small hidden portion of the carpeting and see how it accepts the paint. Looking at some reference photos in Paul Koo's DVDs, the cars with red exterior and beige / cream interiors had carpets matching the upholstery. So I think I'll also go for a similar colour to match.
  2. I have no idea how to go about modifying the carpeting. Never thought of it actually, since I figured that red body, white seats and brown carpeting should match. Any suggestions on how to modify the carpeting?
  3. Hi guys. Took me quite some time, but have just managed to finish the front and back seats. I used an off-white leather together with 1mm leather leather cord. They are not perfect and minor touch up with paint will be required. After this, I will be working on the doors.
  4. Thanks! The wheels are the kit's original plastic wheels. I painted them with artist oils, then a mist coat of semi gloss over them.
  5. Thanks guys. I have alot to learn from all of you. I have posted some WIP years back for my 1/12 Mefistofele, Fiat 806 and Bentley Blower. But once all of those were wiped out thanks to Photobucket, I stopped posting. I will be getting some hex rods from MMC to mount most of the parts (I got this tip from Codger's RR build). Will I also need 2mm nuts or will the Pocher's nuts work? With the body now in place, I can see that the doors are fine, but this is before I have the leather on. It's the hood that will be the main concern and I doubt I can get the hood flush unless I have the body and fenders set in position. For the hood, the 2 top pieces will be hinged using Pocher's hinges. Then I will use piano hinge to mount one side of the hood and use neodymium magnets on the side panels. The magnets work well with the piano hinges, and since they are 3mm wide and 1mm deep, they are easily pressed into holes drilled across the length of the side panels. This is at least how I plan for it to work in my head, but we will find out once the piano hinges arrive. This weekend will be spent upholstering the seats. I have also shared some photos of my 1st completed Pocher Fiat F-2 in the Ready For Inspection section. Regards, Jeremy
  6. Hi guys, Here's my first completed Pocher kit. Built around 2.5 years back. Took me around 6 months. It was my first Pocher, so it was built without any upgrade parts from MMC. Wood veneer was used for the interior and some added bolts and bits. It was a blast building this kit and got me addicted to Pocher, big time! Also have to add that I had lots of help from Paul Koo's DVD. I was particularly pleased how the wheels turned out, painted with just artist oils, as I always had problem painting woodgrain. Regards, Jeremy
  7. If there is any admin reading this, can you please delete this double post? The first time I posted, there was an error which said post was not successful. Then double postings appeared. Thanks.
  8. Hi guys, It has been a few years since I've posted on this forum. I'm currently building this Pocher kit, and through my emails with Larchiefeng, I figured it's best for me to do a build log here to get some feedback on the build. The engine has been completed, and the body and fenders have been tested mounted on. All of this was done with the help from Paul Koo's DVD. The body will be painted red, with cream interiors. Here are some photos of my progress so far. Sides of the engine are opened up to show the pistons. I have inserted a square styrene into the header. I am using the original Pocher pipes and they wouldn't really fit into the round headers. I'll post more as I progress. Regards, Jeremy
  9. Absolutely loving it. I also especially like the base for it.
  10. This is one of my favorite builds of all time. Truly an inspirational build and thanks for all the fantastic tips and detailed pictures along the way. It has been a very rewarding journey and thanks for sharing. Regards, Jeremy
  11. Looks absolutely stunning and majestic!
  12. Sorry, should have been more clear. The thinner I used was Mr. Hobby Levelling Thinner which I think is less agressive compared to commercial lacquer thinner.
  13. Hi Ian, Molotow chrome is no where as fragile as Alclad, but it will be affected by handling as well. It takes quite a long time to dry. I place it near the window for sun bathing for a few days, turning it periodically. The Bentley badge was from the kit. I was lucky enough I manage to salvage it when first removed. I had a few layers of primer and then gloss black on the shell before Molotow chrome. Problem with Molotow chrome is that it needs to flood the part before the chrome gets its shine. This affected the detail on the badge. So I rubbed off the chrome only on the badge right down to bare plastic using lacquer thinner. It was then just getting the right amount of molotow chrome on the badge so that the details are still visible. Regards, Jeremy
  14. Hi Codger. It was sprayed at 15PSI.
  15. Thanks for looking in guys. Hi Ron, I sprayed it at 15 PSI. Hi Andi, the finish is not that durable. I handled some parts after 48 hours and it does affect the shine a little. Even so, it's miles more durable compared to Alclad, and more importantly way easier to achieve the desired finish. It quite fool-proof. I only have Mr.Hobby Super Clear and Mr. Hobby Acrysion Clear. The Acrysion clear does dull the finish. I did not try Super Clear. The radiator casing will not be handled much, so I won't be coating it. Just hoping that the finish doesn't dull over time. Regards, Jeremy
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