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krow113

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About krow113

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    Very Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 09/01/1961

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    https://www.facebook.com/Wingnut-Wings-Builders-Page-1297118540352413/

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    Male
  • Location
    BRITISH COLUMBIA

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  1. Generally a rule with me to wash. Soaking in water and dish soap is enough with a rinse of course. Vinegar soak for p/e. Soaking in alcohol for resin bits Just don't soak them too long as some resin will react. Here the wheel spokes all took on a new shape as the resin was soaked overnight: It was an 'even' new shape so I went with it!
  2. MFH mystery may have more than a little to do with the soft metal. No-one was ready for that and it burnt a few guys right outta the gate. It solders beautifully and I did melt off a corner of the rear engine mount. Easily fixed by soldering on to the left over mount and fashioning the missing part. Did find a small niggle. The rear brake cross over tube's right hand vertical mount is a little too tall. You can see it here in this pic: There are some minor ramifications to this regarding the rear exhaust mount , I'm not worried , but would have taken care of it prior to the framework if I'd known.
  3. I dunno what to tell you. My Big Red Lo stalled out on paint , other work got done on it but still need to final polish the paint. My MFH Knuckle got the frame sorted: Jigged and soldered together. Mainly to see if it would work , after tests on scrap pieces soldered nicely. The Knuckle is serious kit , and you don't go into it with a cavalier attitude , there is an approach for me that takes a while to muster and get going. Examining the kit there are multiple materials, multiple finish' , multiple ways to go about the procedures.... It takes me time to figure out which procedure to do first and then work out the next , etc. I never know how long the approach will take,
  4. An Icon. One of the best modellers ever, I use his books regularly during run up's and while building. Thanks for that , G.W. !
  5. I don't have the paint specs but google it , Harley paint codes can be retrieved with a little looking. I would use a translucent yellow over the silver as I believe that's how it was done. Yellow accents on the ignition cover , derby cover , primary chain inspection cover , mid stack spacer ,and maybe the headlight ring. Engine parts done in a reverse scallop theme. Google for info (first year fat boy works) on the yellow parts ,I think they can be purchased as a set , so the details will be there. The tank badges were enameled metal I think...
  6. Never heard it called grey ghost. Its an early base/clear with yellow over silver accented pieces on engine covers and the stack spacer of the rocker boxes. Was universally met with a collective 'meh' from custom Harley builders. Striking though and easy enough to render. A lighter silver would be a good start. Good luck.
  7. 20 off. Limited edition model base': Routed edge selection: I'll number each one , just for fun , and laser in details on some , also a metal plaque will be supplied for each base. I could have thrown the pieces in the wood stove , but it would have been a waste of the material. We'll see how, or if , they sell at our local IPMS show later this year.
  8. Get a pic of the desired image. Put it through a graphics program. Send it to the laser program. Process it and then send it to the laser. Test burn material to find the best rendition. Place and locate and burn the material. Prime and seal the burnt section. Paint to suit and seal the burnt section. Stain to suit the surrounding material. Paint staining , sealing , and clear coats or oiling is up to the person working with the base.. Lots of ways to do things. I've just finished the rough wood work on 20 base' made of the 400 year old cedar .These will be all of the material that I have. Thanks for the interest and commenting.
  9. Good stuff! TS has the chain for this, I've used their generic Honda chain on a few bikes.
  10. Here is the base with painted section. Acrylic and craft paint wash' , just to see how it goes/looks: Obvious issues include the grain of the wood.This being 400 year old 'swamp' cedar , that is it was never short of water , it has large grain. Also sealing would be crucial , as well as a proper procedure, which I am attempting to figure out.
  11. 1/48 scale 'Diver Down ' display: - rare Tekniks 'Gesturing Pilot" the genesis piece that started the whole affair. - 1/16 s/s tig rod mounts seated into mounts installed within the airframes - 1/2" mdf base w/ printed blurred 'English Countryside' photo on vehicle wrap vinyl stretched over and laminated - prop blades cut out on my sign cutter and airbrushed , I would use my laser to cut them out now as it polish' the edge. I looked at ALL of the ways to do this settling on this combination and I would still do a few things differently.
  12. Some really good prices . Take note as buying stupidly inflated prices for WNW on ebay is silly . They will all come available again ,just wait for it.
  13. Here is a cedar panel I've been fooling with. Looking to make a series of laser engraved model base'. The panel is 8" x 4" x 3/4" and has been cut to allow a nameplate on the end. This is a test panel that is looking very nice so I 've kept on with it. Seems to be working out ok so far: The cobble has been masked off and sealed , then a medium dark stain has been applied. I can now go ahead and paint the cobble detail to suit. Wait for it.....
  14. Thanks Michael! Looking into getting on this again...
  15. 50/50 , Future & IPA For a thin , hard , tough finish.
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