krow113

looks like you had fun!

Checking my references there is evidence to show the hatch's lined up with each other , there is also evidence of them being out of line. I think the kit is correct in the vehicle being presented Depending on what LVTA is being modelled its worth checking. Good work here .

Final red coats: And the wheels. Not the easiest of procedures painting the inside black. Use the wrong tape and you'll need to redo them. I'm almost ready to remove alla the finish and start from bare plastic , the kit flaws and my mistake moving me in that direction. Here I have ,mounted them in the lathe ready to try to remove the black or smooth it out for fixing:

Thanks EXWAFU , Michael , kp & Snoz !! Not any actual modelling update but some work on the deathhead. Specifically the masking procedure. I made a vector file of the mirrored image: I know it looks wide angle and more than a little 'Predator' lookin'. I added some teeth into the empty areas at the sides of the mouth and made sure both sides aren't exactly alike. Needs more work. Remember it gets wrapped around the Gotha nose and narrows nicely when I fold it in half. But in looking at it tryna figure out a paint procedure , I thought perhaps a decal may be a better way. The grey and black shades can be printed on clear sheet , and a mask to spray the background color , with the decal placed on top of that , could work. Todays computer graphics work will be in that direction. As stated. I erased the image edges and cleaned up the background. Printed images are positive in their look and this is the right direction , a mask and decal combo: Cheesy cut n' paste encouraging: Looks like it can get a little bigger too! Preiliminary artwork stage reached. I can fine tune the images and think about the mask/decal combo procedure. Progression: Lightening the image and working on contrast , seems there is detail loss , so back in to work on the shades a little more. Remember these shades will be printed on clear decal sheet and that will be laid onto a masked off painted shape that is first applied to the model.

Thanks for the interest and commenting , Markus. The rubber cover was made from a coarse threaded rod that is .180" in diameter. If you have lathe skills , it takes an hour or so to make.

Another detail sorted. This is the completely missing clutch adjustment rubber cover: Under this cover is the clutch cable slack adjuster , a threaded hex tube with a locknut. After agonising how to make one , it became pretty clear after dimensioning my buddys Hog , that it could be turned from a length of threaded rod ! Bonus and rather easy , it looks the part with kit clutch cable ran through it. A nice easy 1 hour.

Laser-boy today: Test shots ; as I go up and down in power and speed you can see the progression , and at some point the material reveals itself as perhaps too soft. The file cuts nice , just the material melts back together . Natural progression , going up /down with power and speed results in a passable part: The throttle lock wheel in 1/6 scale is 4mm in dia and 1mm thick. Really happy with this , its very fine work and the laser came through really well. The first part of a trans-kit for the model ! 1 hour.

Actual modelling use: Looks to be workable , I started with 1mm plastic card and you can see the progression through fully melted to an outline emerging. The plastic isn't the right material but proves the file as workable. I can cut one of these out , but the plastic is brittle after the heat of the cutting .More material trials to come. And I have it done: The throttle lock wheel in 1/6 scale is 4mm in dia and 1mm thick. This worked great and would be the best way to re-create the part.

lol too funny

Fuel injection then as compared to now!? You cant be serious. The info came to light as I researched the engines.

Visibility , armament , and fuel injection capability were the factors .

Ashamed , embarrassed on the world stage and financially raped by a government , I am forced to reveal Canadian citizenship.

Happily returning here . A Gotha safely put to bed. Beakin' off aboot electrical accy's and upgrading the kits wiring components can't just about 'playing the big shot' and looks to be a worthwhile endeavor. I have a parts manual and a service manual now. I immediately checked the part numbers of a few items and found the 2013 (kit year ) carries parts from 1999. This is good as there is a 2000 Fat Boy sitting less than a 1/2 mile away. My buds bike will be the dimensioning mule for the additional parts. There will be a lot of them , each one will add its tiny bit more realism to the model. Starting by printing off the relevant parts pages: This helps immensely with positioning and dimensioning , the components and wiring are a visible part of the bike.

Nice! Its a fun kit to build , some watchful areas. Get the proprietary track set if you can and check my attempt:

Michael & Marklo; Thanks for following along on this segment of The Gotha. krow113 will be out now , a stopping point comfortably reached. I'll be back as soon as The Gotha bug bites again. Session mess to deal with: