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krow113

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About krow113

  • Birthday 09/01/1961

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    BRITISH COLUMBIA

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  1. Fit wires inside the tubing. Generally I will bin the generic black tubing that somehow represents all of the cables , oil lines , brake lines etc which are not all the same.
  2. Those resin ones in the tutorial do not look like weld beads to me! You will need to spec your weld bead dimensions and find the ones that fit the size for your model.
  3. Scribing with a caliper can work . Then the 'roll' method to cut.
  4. 1/32 Ta 152 , 1/35 Verlinden figs : Dont worry too much about it , have fun and mix it up!
  5. Your second option is the one. Use red letters and seal them good prior to the gold letters going on. Whatever method you use for the red -seal it in well. These are letters from n automotive- hot rod- race generic sheet.
  6. Do you take those wheels apart to deal with the center seam ? There should be a rim lock opposite of the valve too I think. Keep up the momentum!
  7. How many pics of useless p/e rigging would you like to see? As a custom fabricator of 45 years experience I am able to understand and execute procedures to the best end possible. This is not possible; after 3 weeks of trying and ending up with the same result. 1/32 Biff. Rigged in 3 days after clearing off the mess left by the previous effort. Prym is available , cheap , gives the closest profile to RAF flying wires and can be successfully completed without wasting time.
  8. Cool. The only prob with the kit chain is it is impervious to pretty much anything but looking at it. Tough to form , wont hold shape , absolutely no glue on planet earth will bond it , I even tried melting it together! The best bond was with black tire cyano , I used that to glue a skirt on the seat and it held. Super chain-boy , think yer pretty good eh?! LOL Chain work is only half the work , sprockets must be engineered and made as well. I did make some for The Hillclimber : That pic shows a resin sprocket cast from a master made up of 7-8 cut vinyl pieces ,which is a viable method for a master. This pic is of a chain assy jig , one of many I tried , and a pretty good assy procedure , using plastic rod for rollers and heating the end which mushrooms nicely: I could not get it sorted in time for the contest that year and the chain cost me m/c first and perhaps the BiS that year! Some Bobber '47 shots for your wiring reference. I worked in a custom Harley shop for 2 decades and was privy to a ton on info on this bike , my specialties were carb work and custom wiring the bikes that were built: Wiring here is of varied types , none of it is the stupid black tubing every model has in it. All of it is different materials , sourced from all over the world. And you can see the chain is slightly under scale and does not match the sprockets , but this only is an issue if yer gonna compete. Want any other pics let me know.
  9. Hey Natty. Yes I did use the RC 211 Top Studio chain for my '47 Bobber rendition of this kit. I'm not one to occlude others threads with my pics , not without asking first anyway. The kit has challenges even without the previous 'work' done on this one! I applaud the effort. I have moulds for casting hubs and rims for this model as well as number of other details relevant to a bobber model. I did pop for the MFH chain for another model , actually 2 of them as it was for a Hillclimber with an extended swingarm. You will notice any chain set of merit comes with a jig and specific building instructions. When Eduard kindly supplied me with 1/8 scale links I had problems all the way through , roller supply , jig set up etc ,etc . Google ; krow113 and Bobber '47 , or Hillclimber some comes up. Hillclimber blog: Auto Modeler :: HARLEY HILLCLIMBER (kitmaker.net)
  10. Dimensions taken and another file for the Gotha accessorie series for the mirrors. Cut out of chrome/mirror sign material:
  11. S'more fuse detail work. On the IP doghouse adding the 2 mirrors and sorting the windshield. Mirrors are mounted ,the left by drilling out the marked hole inside the doghouse and guessing where the right one went , both mounted slightly angled up and to the outside , care given that the 2 faces are parallel when viewed from the side. You can see the windshield in the pic laying there. I suggest that the windshield be fitted when the doghouse work is started. It fits problematically and needs special care to get it sorted: P/E bezels were used to replicate mounting flanges..
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