krow113

I don't have the paint specs but google it , Harley paint codes can be retrieved with a little looking. I would use a translucent yellow over the silver as I believe that's how it was done. Yellow accents on the ignition cover , derby cover , primary chain inspection cover , mid stack spacer ,and maybe the headlight ring. Engine parts done in a reverse scallop theme. Google for info (first year fat boy works) on the yellow parts ,I think they can be purchased as a set , so the details will be there. The tank badges were enameled metal I think...

Never heard it called grey ghost. Its an early base/clear with yellow over silver accented pieces on engine covers and the stack spacer of the rocker boxes. Was universally met with a collective 'meh' from custom Harley builders. Striking though and easy enough to render. A lighter silver would be a good start. Good luck.

20 off. Limited edition model base': Routed edge selection: I'll number each one , just for fun , and laser in details on some , also a metal plaque will be supplied for each base. I could have thrown the pieces in the wood stove , but it would have been a waste of the material. We'll see how, or if , they sell at our local IPMS show later this year.

Get a pic of the desired image. Put it through a graphics program. Send it to the laser program. Process it and then send it to the laser. Test burn material to find the best rendition. Place and locate and burn the material. Prime and seal the burnt section. Paint to suit and seal the burnt section. Stain to suit the surrounding material. Paint staining , sealing , and clear coats or oiling is up to the person working with the base.. Lots of ways to do things. I've just finished the rough wood work on 20 base' made of the 400 year old cedar .These will be all of the material that I have. Thanks for the interest and commenting.

Good stuff! TS has the chain for this, I've used their generic Honda chain on a few bikes.

Here is the base with painted section. Acrylic and craft paint wash' , just to see how it goes/looks: Obvious issues include the grain of the wood.This being 400 year old 'swamp' cedar , that is it was never short of water , it has large grain. Also sealing would be crucial , as well as a proper procedure, which I am attempting to figure out.

1/48 scale 'Diver Down ' display: - rare Tekniks 'Gesturing Pilot" the genesis piece that started the whole affair. - 1/16 s/s tig rod mounts seated into mounts installed within the airframes - 1/2" mdf base w/ printed blurred 'English Countryside' photo on vehicle wrap vinyl stretched over and laminated - prop blades cut out on my sign cutter and airbrushed , I would use my laser to cut them out now as it polish' the edge. I looked at ALL of the ways to do this settling on this combination and I would still do a few things differently.

Some really good prices . Take note as buying stupidly inflated prices for WNW on ebay is silly . They will all come available again ,just wait for it.

Here is a cedar panel I've been fooling with. Looking to make a series of laser engraved model base'. The panel is 8" x 4" x 3/4" and has been cut to allow a nameplate on the end. This is a test panel that is looking very nice so I 've kept on with it. Seems to be working out ok so far: The cobble has been masked off and sealed , then a medium dark stain has been applied. I can now go ahead and paint the cobble detail to suit. Wait for it.....

Thanks Michael! Looking into getting on this again...

50/50 , Future & IPA For a thin , hard , tough finish.

Yup. Too funny watching these threads. Just paint it the color that appeals to you the most , and tell the naysayers they are wrong.

Excellent news. Always good to hear as the quality of the entire package is commendable. By the way p/e flat rigging is a waste of time. It wont work on the fine quality WNW kits , they are to close to the winged lawn furniture they resemble.

Get an MDC beading/riveting set. And skip the decals and resin and... You can emboss the rivets right onto the part your working on.

Hugely interesting. The Vulcan is so iconic... I would suggest that acrylic rod may not handle the weight. Stainless TIG welding rod may be a better option , but something would have to be built into the model to receive the rod. Another option may be to do a clear acrylic 'fin' secured along the bottom of the model down to the base. Good luck!