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CrazyCrank

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Everything posted by CrazyCrank

  1. Evening Chaps No progress on my build today due to a lot of administrative tasks I'd to achieve, and a huge reorganization of my workspace... Indeed, as the days passed, it became a merry shambles and I couldn't find a black cat in a coal cellar So, as Santa Claus brought me from Poland a lot of boxes full of wooden stuffs, I've spent a lot of time to assemble a new organizer, signed by HobbyZone. My bench isn't very large, 120 cm, so I've had to moderate my ambitions, but I've reached my goal. And, as these HobbyZone elements are modular, there's room to extend the storage place in the future. I'm pretty happy and proud to show you some pictures of the result: The body, trunk lid and bonnets are ready to be painted French Blue, as soon as I've assembled my painting booth: Stay tuned if you like, and thanks for watching
  2. Evening, Gentlemen Not a great progress today, but, my grand-daughter having leaved my house, it has allowed me to use my airbrush and paints. So, I've put the second layer of grey primer on the body and trunk lid, sanded them 3000 grit, and re-install the retaining system for the lid when trunk's opened Then, after having masked the outer side of the bonnets and sanded their inner side, I've put on them two coats of grey primer. Bonnets, trunk and body are now ready to receive their 3-4 coats of French Blue. I've decanted my spray can TS10 in a Tamiya mixing bottle, and it's ready to spray with my airbrush. I do hope to control more precisely the painting job with it. However, I'm waiting for the delivery of a paint booth that I've ordered yesterday on Amazon.fr, to do this job. Stay tuned if you like
  3. Yeahh ! a new Pocher's builder For sure, Codger will soon respond...
  4. I'm not a fan of modern race cars, but i do appreciate the excellent work you did on this body, and the shape you got is superb
  5. At the moment, having my grand-daughter Emma at home for one or two weeks, It's impossible to airbrush anything, due to the toxicity of paints and their vapors, so my build will stay in standby for some days. Meanwhile, I'm thinking of the manner to improve the wheels Have seen some Youtube videos showing how to make metal-tension spoked wheels, particularly on the Bentley 4.5 Blower 1:24, and some tutorials for ancient cars. Nothing directly transferrable for my Lago Record, but very interesting and stimulating. I hope you'll enjoy the following video, which shows the incredible skills of a great modeler, David Damek: I wish you all a merry Christmas
  6. I'm in awe of your incredible painting skills
  7. Evening, Chaps Second body primed and sanded, first layer, second to come, and retaining system of the opened trunk lid to install. Then painting job with Tamiya lacquer TS10 decanted and sprayed with the airbrush, and then perhaps clear coating, perhaps not, but a lot of elbow grease to polish this body. Meanwhile, some pictures of the actual state of my build: Still a lot of time and work to make it acceptable, particularly the inside of the bonnets Stay tuned if you like
  8. Precisely @rob Lyttle. But, each following step on this body could result in a disaster, so don't sell the bear's skin before having caught it
  9. Good evening, Gentlemen Second (wrecked) body repaired and first layer of Alclad Grey Primer and Filler sprayed. At the moment, no damage on this brittle plastic The hinges for opening trunk lid has been re-made and glued in place. Remains to do the retaining system for the lid. Have had a dry fit on the chassis, and I've to say that, if the bonnets wouldn't have been finished in French Blue, I would frankly be hesitating between a blue body and a grey body. That reminds me of the color of Peter Falk's Peugeot 403 in the television series "Colombo" , which I was an unconditional fan. Now, 3000 grit sanding stage of the primer, then second layer of primer, the 3000-4000-600 sanding before French blue spraying. I've bought another can of Tamiya TS10, but, I've planed not to use it as is to paint this body. I'm going to decant the paint and to airbrush it, in order to save paint and have a better control of the painting job. Stay tuned if you like
  10. It's too early to claim victory...I still have a long way to go ... 1/ for attaching the bonnets: - Cutting out the front end of the part which is supposed to be the hinges; at this end is the decorative emblem, that doesn't exist on the real car in the Museum - In this front end has to be attached the piano wire situated at the front of the hinges , and I think I'll thread a tiny hole in it, through which the wire will go. The purpose is that when opening a half-bonnet, the other half wouldn't separate from the body 2/ to enhance and paint the inside of the bonnets, without wasting or spoiling the outside 3/ to make, if possible, a retaining system for each Half-bonnet, in order to avoid that, once a half-bonnet is opened, the other half-bonnet would lift up (what occurs actually !) And each of these steps is a challenge
  11. Afternoon guys Dry fit of the bonnets on the body after a little surgery...they seem to be rather flush with it. A bit of work remains for the inside, and I'm thinking about a retaining system when half-bonnet is open.... The same preparatory surgery has been made on my "wrecked" body, which is on the bench for sanding and preparing the priming. At the moment, nothing broken Thanks for watching
  12. Very realistic truck, I'm a fan of you build, Jeroen
  13. Morning, Gentlemen A little progress today on the bonnets. The hinges have been stuck in place, not without some difficulties. Finally, the solution to do it has been: - first: stick the hinges on the bonnets with Micro liquid tape. That allowed to reposition the hinges on the bonnets, if necessary , before the final glueing . - Then, I've cut out of a thick styrene sheet, 2 strips, which I've glued with CA gel from the inside of the bonnets, astride on each half-bonnet and half-hinge. Of course, at this stage of the building, it remains a lot of work to do on the inside, particularly to thin, if possible, the strips, and then paint the inside of bonnets The final result for the outside of the bonnets is showed on the pictures below. As I think that some of you will have a careful, not to say inquisitive look at this, I have to say that I'm not totally satisfied because it remains a defect, impossible to fix without destroying all the assembly and the paint ! Indeed, if you look at the front of the bonnets, you'll see that the right half-bonnet isn't there so closed to the hinge, that the left half-bonnet Hopefully, I can live with it (My name isn't Vatel, and I've not planed, at the moment, to commit a suicide ) Of course, the hinges work, and the bonnets will be opening....If I find a way to attach correctly this set on the main body....and that's not a given ! Stay tuned if you like and thanks for watching
  14. I'd thought to intend that solution, but, behind the frame, there is already a groove, in which the windscreen will be stuck later on, and the plastic here is very thin and very brittle. It remains very few place and material to try to cut a groove, even if it is very thin and shallow, so I prefer abstain ! On the pictures below you can see what I mean. I've put some liquid white primer where the cracks are situated, and you can see them, magnifying the photos. At the moment the repairs seem beefy, but I'll have to be extremely cautious while sanding or polishing Thanks for any critics and advices PS: How many bodies ?...two of course, one for the busy days, and another for special occasions
  15. Evening, Gentlemen Having heard siren songs, I've begun to clean up the wrecked body, and to fix the cracks. Cleaning it's easy, repairing cracks not too difficult, but the issue is that the repairs are very fragile ! As soon as I handle a bit too hardly the body, the windshield framing cracks again, in the way I predicted, pity So, I'll continue to try to work on it, to see if I can get an acceptable stuff after priming, painting, sanding and polishing, but without having too much illusions... And, since I don't now where this venture will lead me, I've polished the painted body with Tamiya compounds. Let's see the result by yourselves: Stay tuned for new steps
  16. You're a wizard @rob Lyttle ! Because it is exactly what I've planned, once the Talbot is finished
  17. Evening Gentlemen I've retrieved a wreck from its bath of brake fluid ! After having scraped off all varnish and paint, I've noticed that the plastic of the body hadn't been melt, as one could fear, by this aggressive liquid, but had been , all the contrary, hardened, and that it became weaker and brittle. If you take a look at the photos below, you could see 3 big cracks: 1 on the body forward the front side of the trunk lid, and 2 on the windshield frame Admittedly, it's very possible to fix them, BUT, It's quite certain that, later on, during the sanding job on primer, blue paint, and during the polishing job of the paint, one or more of these repaired cracks will crack again ! So, I've to admit that it's no longer worth it, pity That is why you won't see this scale model with an opening trunk. Wait and see
  18. After polishing with Tamiya compounds (what hasn't been yet done on the body), I use Carnauba Turtle Wax
  19. Evening Gentlemen I am cursed ...On step forwards, two steps back Bonnets are painted, clear coated, polished and satisfactory Trunk lid has been sanded, polished and primed, and is waiting its blue coats I was sanding my second main body, the one with the opening trunk lid, and which had already received the clear coat. I had already removed the orange peel aspect with 3000, 3500 and 4000 grits, when I noticed that, while sanding, I had passed through the clear and the blue paint, on some thin areas, as sharp edges of the bonnets , and grille. One could then see the grey of the primer ! Stupidly, I decided to spray a bit of Tamiya TS 10 over these areas... - That resulted in fixing the issue on all places... - Except nearby the grille, probably because I sprayed too much closer of the body: there, there was too much solvent, and that reacted with the clear coat, producing a chipped paint. Then, the clear coat stripped by itself , and all the work was and is damaged ! I'm now used to disappointments, so, I've decided 2 things: - 1/ I have to try to strip off entirely the Clear coat and the paint, and then, redo the job of sanding, polishing, painting, sanding and polishing , and eventually clear coating, because all the work that have been made to get a opening trunk is worth it. - 2/ In the event that I fail to reach this result, I have NOW to try to get an acceptable result with the first body, the one with closed trunk, quit to moderate my ambitions . That's why I've soaked the damaged body in different liquids , as caustic soda, Ammonia, without any success, and then, following the advices of some tutorials on modelers websites, I've used brake fluid. YES, BRAKE FLUID Of course, I've first made a try over a residual plastic sprue, in order to ensure that this agressive product wouldn't melt the plastic....it wasn't the case, fortunately. This evening, I've controlled the effects on the body, and all the clear and the paint has begun to detach from the plastic body... I let it react until tomorrow evening, and then, I've good reasons to believe that I could retrieve a clean plastic body, fingers crossed ! Nevertheless, I've worked on the first body, taking time to sand it even more carefully, with 3000/3600/4000/6000/8000 and 12000 grit (Alclad mesh), and , as surprising as it may sound, even before polishing it with Tamiya compounds, I've got a good result. So much that I wonder if I have to clear coat it ? - Arguments for: If I put the decals (Trunk and grille) without clear coating, this will be visible, and will provide an imperfect result - Arguments against : The body's paint of pre 70's cars wasn't clear coated, only polished. Best is the enemy of good, and if I clear coat, the risk is high to return to the same difficulties and issues than previously, so .... Nothing decided at this moment. Hereunder some pictures of what I got with the first body, only with paint sanding: The difference in terms of shining between the bonnets, which have been clear coated before polishing, and the main body, which have not, is very subtle, not to say invisible ! Thanks for watching
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