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Everything posted by CrazyCrank

  1. Super work This car was reproduced by Dinky Toys or Corgy toys at 1/43 scale and I played with it, and others, when I was still a little boy in the 60's ! For sur I'll flow this build
  2. Evening guys I've scratched the handbrake lever, using 1.0 mm brass tube, 0.5 mm brass tube and a 0.3 mm piano wire: - The goal is to get closest as possible with the real (on the photo I showed you yesterday) - The front end is round, and next its flattened / - So, I threaded a 0.3 mm piano wire into a section of 0.5 mm brass tube, to get it stronger and prevent a mistaken flattening while using my pliers - I threaded the 0.5 mm tube into the 1.0 mm one - I managed to flatten only half the thickness of the 1.0 mm tube - And at last, I drilled a 0.3 mm hole at the bak of my lever, perpendicularly to its length ,and threaded a short section of 0.3 mm piano wire into the hole And I got this: A little filing: Then, I drawn in Fusion 360 a ratchet . Normally I think it's placed on the tubular chassis and isn't visible in the cabin, but I've decided to innovate, because it's aesthetic and nice to place it in the cabin...:) The drawings: The 3D print: Little blank test in the tub: The size of the stuff compared to the point of a scalpel blade: Then I've went on with the cabin modification: 1/ First: the hatch covers: - Removed the latches on the sides - removed the 2 hatches covers, which are too small compared to the real (they have the size we find on the SLR Uhlenhaut Coupé), sanded the surface - Fabricated 2 new hatches' covers with 0.18 mm styrene sheet 4x5 x 9 mm - Rounded the corners - Drilled on the corners 4 0.2 mm holes on each cover - Where later I'll thread a short section of 0.18 mm piano wire, the top of which will barely protrude from the plane of the cover, to simulate a rivet 2/ Second: holes for other rivets on the inside of the vertical sides , in front of the seats 3/ Added bottom fixtures to the wall which separate the space before the passenger seat in two parts, and drilled on the fixtures holes for screws or rivets 4/ Drilled a 3.0 mm hole on the floor in front of the driver's seat, on the left of the tunnel, where I'll insert later a short 3.0 mm of 2.8 mm tube, which wall has a very low thickness (0.15 mm) , to represent this: I wouldn't swear to it, but it looks like a can holder...(or maybe it's a hole to pee in while driving ) The can holder: has been made on the lathe, turning a brass rod, previously drilled 2.5 mm 5/ Primed all cabin parts, including seats and separating wall...but not yet the can holder I've also glued the fuel cap on the top of the fuel tank, before I lose it in my messy workbench ! That's all for now folks....:) I'm always thinking about the way I could follow in order to fabricate the missing parts of the chassis situated at the very rear end, visible in the trunk. Surfing on the Web, I've found a new idea for the tyres which are too big for the trunk: Draw smaller ones, same shapes, in Fusion 3D and 3D print them using black flexible resin, but the price of this stuff is simply insane :55 euros for half a liter See you soon for next episode
  3. Evening gentlemen Contrary to what I said and thought, I've managed to install the first battery on the chassis, without preventing the bodywork to fit it. It's tight but it works I'v scratched a housing for the battery and have taken inspiration from this photo: I used "L" profile styrène, much too thick, but which have been sanded later, to form the bottom surrounding, and thin strips of 1.00 wide of 0.15 mm styrene sheet for the top surrounding and the corner structs. The tubes which attach the housing t the tubular chassis are 0.5 mm brass tubes shaped and cut little by little. The bottom surrounding, as on the real, has received several holes. I've been a bit lazy and didn't do the same for the top surrounding ! The whole set has been primed, painted semi-gloss black and cleared. Then, I've detailed the battery with some touch ups of silvers and yellow paint, connected the negative wire (copper one) to the chassis and a 0.2 mm red electrical wire to the positive terminal. At last, the whole set has been glued with CA gel on 3 points on the chassis, and holds by the grace of modelers's God I installed the body shell on the chassis to check if the battery created or not an issue, and, miraculously , it fits well ! I'm very surprised ! url=https://flic.kr/p/2nnFAVL][/url] And now, I'm going tho scratch the handbrake ver and its ratchet Stay tuned if you like
  4. Huge compliment again, Ron, and much appreciated, coming from you I do my best, and have a lot of fun, searching on Ref pictures which detail could be interesting to add, in terms of visibility and interest, if not difficulty, in building it. I have learned so much here, looking at the work of other modelers, and trying to replicate their techniques CC
  5. Afternoon gentlemen The previous piece came out rather nicely but with defects on some elements of the grid, which were distorted, probably due to their thinness and also to a bad orientation on the plate. So, I decided to print them again but before, I modified slightly he drawings, to improve the strenght of these elements...and I took the opportunity to add the part some missing details, taking inspiration of this picture: The linkages you can see around the grill won't be reproduced by the 3D printer, but some of them could be simulated later... wait and see My new drawings: The printed parts: The preliminary surgery to do on the tub, to be able to insert the box in place The kit's part in place: My result with a 3D printed part You can also notice that I've opened an aperture to install the handbrake lever Hereunder the inspiring Ref. photo: The new battery, treadle vac canister and fuel boster pump are OK now, as well. Battery (only 3 of them are Ok, the others have defects) Canister: Fuel pump: I've now a lot of work ahead of me ! See you later for next steps (scratching of battery housing and handbrake lever)
  6. Same for me, lost my father in June 2020 and Mom in February 2021. With a difference from you: the workbench saved me a nervous breakdown ! Nice to see you again here with such a wonderful build
  7. Evening gentlemen Do you know that, even on a race car, there is an handbrake lever ? This part as been totally forgotten by Revell, and I've decided to scratch it. I'll show yo later... Furthermore, I've decided to throw in the trash the kit's part which is supposed to represent the gearshift grid. This chromed part is absolutely inaccurate ! So I've drawn it in Fusion 360, obviously simplifying strongly the design, because at this scale, the major part of tiny details wouldn't be visible ! And I've got that: I'm looking forward how it will come put of the 3D printing ! Se you soon
  8. Afternoon chaps My 3D printed parts came out nicely, all details are present, but, once presented o the chassis, it appeared they are a bit oversized, I would say from 20%. It's particularly true for the battery, whose dimensions are the same than the 300 SL's one, so rather correct, but here, due to the thickness of the chassis tubes, it's impossible to place it on the left side of the left lateral structure, because its width won't allow later on to fit correctly the body shell ! So, I'm going to print again the parts, at 80% of their initial size, and fortunately, the issue will be solved Let's go for a 3 hours printing ! I've begun to inspect the tub and notices that the lateral parts are wrong: there is a door latch on the left, but on the right too !, and they are situated at a bad place, which imho is the place they have on the 300 SLR Coupé Uhlenhaut ! This has to be fixed by a little surgery, of course ! I have to tell as well that the tyres ares Dunlop Racing, when on the true car, they were Continental ones ! And, searching on the Web, I found that the Uhlenhaut SLR is equipped with Dunlop Racing . I think that REVELL, in 1992, has decided to sacrify truth to profitability and re-used numerous parts for both kits ! At last, the tyres are frankly too big and couldn't be placed easily and correctly in the trunk. However, the rims are 17.1 mm so 408 mm at 1:1, almost exactly a 16" rim, and the tyres dimensions seem correct but the kit's conception reduces the trunk dimensions The Tamiya 300 SL kit's tyres are a bath thicker, but 1 mm lower, so, using them, if they accept to fit, I could win 2 mm in the trunk. The issue could be their thickness, but I can cheat, reducing them.... what a shame, my God !! CC can cheat !......YES, I do, as many modelers
  9. I do love this kind of scratch building Congrats, Andy
  10. Evening happy fellows I've not worked much today but: - I've drawn in Fusion 360 the fuel booster pump, the treadle vac canister and a new battery (different from the 300 SL's one, and I've improved the terminals) - I've scratched the gearbox linkage, using 0.3 mm piano wire, 1.0 mm / 0.6 mm /0.4 mm brass tube, my magnifying glasses, some tiny needle files and my jeweler saw. I'm waiting for the 3D printing to be finished, so I can measure the exact dimensions of the battery to be able to scratch its support. My drawings : The fuel booster pump: The treadle vac canister The battery Making of the gearbox linkage: - 2 parts articulated each other - The first piece is theoretically articulated with the gear lever and is made of 4 parts: 1 section of 1.00 mm brass tube, 1 section of 0.8 mm brass tube, 1 section of 0.6 mm brass tube and one section of 0.3 mm piano wire - The second piece articulates with the previous one ans is made of 5 parts: 1 long section of 0.6 mm brass tube, on which are threaded and glued two 0.6 mm nuts, 1 section of 0.8 mm brass tube, threaded on the 0.6 mm at one end, and on a 1,00 mm brass tube section the other end - The two 1,00 mm brass tube sections connect each other with the 0.3 mm piano wire, and have been shaped with my jeweler saw and then with a very thin need file, to cut in each of them a groove. The 2 grooves connect perpendicularly, thanks to the 0.3 mm piano wire, and, as on the real, are not aligned; an angle exist between them I took inspiration of this picture: And tried to reproduce it as better as I could It's been glued in place I've also painted and cleared the fuel cap Sorry for the bad quality of these last 2 pictures; In reality the cap is far nicer, all details are visible at the naked eye. That's all for now, folks The next step is to scratch the missing rear part of the tubular chassis. After many blank tests, I noticed that it will be difficult to install in the trunk the two spare wheels if I install too the fuel pump and the treadle vac canister. The tyres are a bit oversized imho or the kit's trunk not spacious enough... I'll see that later on. It's mostly probable that a painful choice would have to be made ! Stay tuned if you like and thanks for watching
  11. Evening gentlemen Today was a busy and risky day ! I've painted aluminium the fuel tank and smear it with Tamiya black panel line and MIG pigments (polished metal), in order to get a dirty tank, as I said yesterday, what is necessary for a race car that have just raced the "Mille Miglia" in 24 hours I've painted dark aluminium the gearbox and weathered it a bit too. I've scratched all the connectors that were needed at the end of the gearbox, the hoses that are connected to these connectors, scratched as well several banjos, and put 2 of them on the top of. the fuel tank. Their hoses will feed the fuel pump booster later on. At last, I've glued the gearbox under the fuel tank But, when I tried to glue the set on the chassis, began the problems : - The front part of the gearbox is too long forwards, so, it hits the drums and prevent the fuel tank to find its normal place ! - After studying the case, I've determined that had to cut off the front part of the gearbox first, install the set gearbox/fuel tank on the chassis and glue it. - And then to glue the parts I've previously cut on the place where they have to be, shortening them a bit. - I've next repaired the visible lines of glueing lines with UV resin and made some paint touch ups here and there . I sweated a lot to doing this, fearing to do even worse, but finally, the result is GOOD ! I've also 3D printed the fuel cap which came out nicely from the printer . As you could see on the pictures below, all details are present, but you one magnifying glasses, if not a microscope, to see them on the unpainted parts. We'll see tomorrow how they look after priming and painted polished aluminum The next step will be to scratch the battery and its housing, the fuel booster pump, the treadle vac , the gearbox linkage, and to fabricate the last rear chassis part, with its stands for the previously named elements and spare wheels. Stay tuned if you like
  12. Thanks a lot @rob Lyttle for this comment. I've also made the welding lines on the fuel tank, even if they won't be visible, just for the fun and respect for the truth
  13. Thanks a lot @Vesa Jussila for ths kind comment, much appreciated Hopefully, with now the experience of issues and difficulties with this first kit, I will do better with the Uhlenhaut coupé To say the truth, I've just bought some tools and hardware I haven't in my stash when I scratched for exemple the fuel line's of the injection pump, such Ni-Cr wire 0.4 mm and ringing pliers, which would have made easier and better this job, to name but one !
  14. I take pleasure in imagining this beautiful blue tractor moving quietly through a field of rape dotted with poppies
  15. Afternoon chaps I've spent a few hours today to study the connections of various hoses on the fuel tank and the part supplied in the kit, whose location is under the fuel tank and the brake drums, part which represent the gearbox. And I'm puzzled ! The assembly instructions plan to connect a hose, on the right side of the rear end of this gearbox, and to put the other end at the bottom of the fuel tank This is a strange way of doing mechanics In reality, I don't know if there's a connector at the bottom of the fuel tank, it's possible...Furthermore I've placed one at this location, in the event that ... What is sure is that at the rear of the gearbox end , there is 4, if not 5, connectors (which are represented on the kit's part, for once) - 2 on the left, that are banjos, which I think they serve to connect oil hoses. Probably one hose come from the oil tank and the second one go to the rear axle (differential), whose junction with the gearbox is not represented in the kit. Logically it is heading upwards (so the bottom of the fuel tank) - 2, if not 3, on the right, standard connectors (and a banjo ?): from the first one come out a hose which, imho, connects on the same mechanical element, on its right side. And for the second one, I've no certainty, but it think it goes as well to the rear axle (differential). Those hoses are oil hoses as well. I made these assumptions looking at the following picture (MB 300 SLR chassis à 1:8, visible on Techni-art Website ) So I've decided ( tell me please if I'm wrong and you have solid informations about these hoses ) that 2 hoses, one on the left and the other on the right will head upwards. Hereunder some pictures and explanations of the work I did after I made this study: First I decided to modify the rear end of the gearbox, in order to put my own connectors and hoses, instead of the kit's ones. 1/ I used: - A 1.5 mm brass tube to represent the end of the gearbox (It's 1.6 on the kit's parr ) - In which I threaded a 1.0 mm brass tube, to represent the junction with the main part of the gearbox - I flattened the 1.5 mm brass tube. - This flattened end has allowed to fix the tube in my milling machine's vise, and will be cut off later. - I used my mill as a drill and drilled through the 2 walls of the 2 tubes two holes , so I got 4 holes, perfectly spaced and aligned. - I threaded in the holes 2 sections pod 0.4 mm piano wire. - On the left they will be used to connect 2 banjos I've still to fabricate. - On the right, I threaded 2 short sections, about 2.0 mm of 0.6 mm brass tube, to represent standard connectors. 2/ Then I cut of then plastic end of the kit's gearbox 3/ I drilled a 1.0 mm hole where I has cut the plastic, and inserted my new metallic part in the hole 4/ I shortened my new gearbox end. The hole will be filled with UV resin before painting . 5/ At last, as I don't like the top of the gearbox is missing, I scratched it to close the box, even it's absolutely not matching with the true thing I have also added a stand connector on the left side of the gearbox, where there I already a pin Some blank tests fitting have been made on the chassis before the painting job: It looks rather good See you soon for next episode
  16. Good evening gentlemen Some disappointment yesterday evening: While I had painted the new brass tubes, I've made a new blank test with the bodywork, and it appeared that, contrary to what I thought and wrote yesterday, it had become impossible to fit the body shell on the chassis, due to this added tubes, which hitted the side vents (those through which the exhaust outlets pass on the right side of the car, and the same on the left side). So, I've been obliged to remove them, and obviously, to do some paint repair on the chassis, on the places where they were attached. However, I went on working on the fuel tank, adding thickness with styrene and putty, and then doing the same job to adding the top appendice which goes through the body shell, and emerge under the left headrest. I did many blank tests with the tank being modified on the chassis, first without and then with the body shell placed on the chassis, to see how the upper appendix fell in relation to the "hole" made in the body, and I corrected the work several times with styrene, putty and sanding. Finally, I got the following result, which shows a slightly higher upper appendix than the one on the reference photo, and with a far from identical shape, but there were two imperatives to respect, and which were in conflict with each other: - not to increase the height of the front of the tank more than seemed necessary, by comparison with the reference photos. - To make sure that the top extension is high enough in relation to the body so that the access to the filler cap, through the opening on the left headrest / spoiler, is realistic. If I had increased the front of the tank, it would have looked disproportionate (even if it won't be visible once the assembly is done), but the upper extension would have had a correct shape, and would have come out enough. But as what needs to be seen is the top extension, and as it was less work, less filler, therefore quicker drying, less sanding, to increase its height rather than that of the front of the tank, this is what I chose to do! Obviously, the sanding job wasn't achieved? I did that after the photoshoot And I've finally primed the tank, with an automotive filling primer, that has succeeded in greatly reducing surface defects. It remains a lot but mainly on the invisible parts of the piece, so, I'll stop here. Especially since the real car's tank was anything but pampered to get a beauty award Now it remains to redo the welding beads, and then to spray a final coat of primer before painting the tank in dirty aluminium, to match with this picture: What would be a fuel tank without its cap ? The particular knurling of this cap being impossible to reproduce on the lathe and then on the milling machine at 1:24 on a part with a diameter of 3.4 mm, I have, naturally, modeled it with Fusion 3D I almost forgot to show you the progress that was made yesterday on the oil tank... to which I added: - 2 banjos and 1 standard connector - plus all the braided tubing that goes with it, - not to mention the 3 standard connectors that will go to the end of these hoses when their precise length has been determined. It wasn't much, but it has kept me busy for the last dozen hours since last night Stay tuned if you like
  17. Evening chaps Surprisingly , thanks to the warm weather we have actually (at least in France), my Polyester Putty has fully cured in 6 hours instead of 24 expected for that thickness ! So, I began to shape the fuel tank, and here is where I'm at the moment: Closer to the real, isn't it ? A little test fit tomorrow with the bodywork over the chassis, to determine precisely the location of the top appendice of this fuel tank, and its exact dimensions, before scratching it and giving the fuel tank a final layer of putty to fix the little surface imperfections. Of course, even it will never be visible, I'll scratch new weld beads Stay tuned if you like
  18. Good afternoon, happy fellows I've added the rear shock absorbers I've done several blanks tests with the bodywork put on the chassis, which is now a difficult task because of the addition of the rear chassis tubes, which increase the width of the chassis, and noticed that: 1/ I can add some tubes 0.6 mm on the front of the rear lateral chassis structures, what I did this morning As you can see, I've remade the double collar which retains the exhaust cans, the first one broke while handling the chassis 2/ The height of the fuel tank is far to be correct in its front section, it must be increased from about 3 mm. And indeed, when we compare the true thing and the kit's part, we can see this evidence ! So, I began a little aesthetic and radical surgery, removing the engravings o the top of the fuel tank, adding 2 pieces of 1.44 mm styrene sheet, roughly shaped with a scalpel , and then filled at the gaps and even more with Tamiya polyester putty. Now, the fuel tank looks like a Dijon mustard can This putty coat is thick so I must let it cure possibly 24 hours before sanding it.... Next, it will remain to do other blank tests with the bodywork, in order to determine precisely the location of the "wart" of this fuel tank, and its exact dimensions, and at last to scratch it using the same method Stay connected and thanks for watching
  19. Good evening gentlemen Real progress today between a doctor's appointment and mowing the lawn (6000 yards!) I've painted and cleared the rear parts of the tubular chassis I primed yesterday and glued the whole set on the chassis, with CA glue. It's been "rock and roll" as we say in France when it's difficult, because the chassis was twisted (sorry for the joke, couldn't resist ! ) As a result, I've managed to untwist it in the right way....It will be all the better for nest adjustments and additions. The missing parts of this rear section of the tubular chassis that I've planned to scratch will be added, if possible, later on, when I have made blank tests with the tub and the bodywork put on the chassis. These structural additions should not compromise the final assembly by hindering the adaptation of the cabin and bodywork ! I've also painted and cleared the oil tank. I didn't do it on purpose, but I was going for a bit of a rough look for the surface of this one, and I got it because I had set the airflow and pressure of my airbrush wrong! For once a blunder has a happy ending On the picture below, this rough appearance is hardly increases by the magnifying of the camera. To the naked eye it is much more discreet I also added some parts on the rear axle, which are missing in the kit but are present on the real car: - the traction and thrust arms on the wheel spindles: They are made of 0.6 mm brass tube flattened and filed at their ends, glued with a micro9droplet of CA glue. - and the traction arms on the spindles and suspensions cradle: They are made of 0.5 mm piano wire, slightly bended as it was required, and which pass through the two transversal structs of the middle of the chassis. I've managed to drill the holes without breaking anything This increased the rigidity of the chassis, which had an unfortunate tendency to bend in two lengthways Before painting the added elements: After I've also worked on the fuel tank and the gear box / secondary transmission case, but you'll see that later, because it's far to be achieved. Time now to add the oil lines on the oil tank, a battery and its stand, and to add the rear shock absorbers before, again, doing a lot of blank tests in order to adding some tubes on the chassis, and modifying the fuel tank, adding it a wart on the top ! See you soon, and thanks for watching
  20. Evening chaps Not a big progress apparently today, but a big progress for me in my thoughts about how to improve the rear part of the tubular chassis and the fuel tank, and the front part as well. I've primed and painted semi-gloss black the brass tubular front part of the chassis, it remains to spray a semi-gloss clear coat to protect it. I've partially assembled the parts supplied in the kit for the rear section of the tubular chassis, after several adjustment and fixing of defects. The goal was to glue them together, put in place over the tubular chassis, but not glued to it, after having fixed the twisting the chassis presented. So the twisting will be fixed, hopefully. And I've primed them. Obviously, it remains a lot of work to do on it, as I told young a previous post I've also primed and pre-painted semi-gloss black the oil tank (in the end, it will be matt aluminium) And at last, I have achieved the improvement of the fuel filter, adding the two banjos it must receive. The left/front one connects to the fuel tank, and the right / rear one connects to the injection pump. I almost forgot to say that I also painted and glued the drive shaft See you soon for next steps, thanks for watching
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