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silver911

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Everything posted by silver911

  1. I don't regard that as a failure in any way for a first...well done you. Regards Ron
  2. If you think it's too silver/shiny...then just give it a very light mist coat of white...keep it at arms length from the rattle can when misting...and move the can quite rapidly to avoid build up...subtle is what your after. Ron
  3. Nice job mate...and yes...'Zero' are superb paints...go through the airbrush supremely well...and...unlike other brands...they are very forgiving when handling. Ron
  4. No mate...ordinary acrylic rattle can matt white...believe me...it won't be fully dry in 20 minutes...and acrylic flat ali (Vallejo for example)...will then reawaken the matt white so to speak...allowing them to bleed together. Mr C (Codger) is a bit of a fan of my techniques lol Ron
  5. That's a very sound jig you made...nice one. If I may offer a little advice on how to achieve the look of your chosen header colour...I have done that same colour several times...and have a good method. 1...prime the pipes in matt white...wait 20 minutes then..... 2...'Mist' coat them in 'Flat Aluminium'...keep it nice and light by spraying from about 12 inches away...the idea being to let the white just barely show through the ali...because the white is not fully dry it will bleed into the ali...then leave over night to dry. 3...Mist coat some matt sealer...a couple of very light coats will do it...then leave to dry for 24 hours...after which you can paint in the band detail etc. ...which will appear extra shiny next to the pipes...as it is in your ref pic. Ron
  6. If I may...if you know what you are looking for in regards to photo etch...I used a company in Scotland to produce the radiator fins for my Ducati build...not sure if their open in these times...but I can vouch for their helpfulness and quality. http://www.ppdltd.com/ Ron
  7. Simply superb rendition of an all time classic record breaker. Respect Ron
  8. I am a great believer in 'if it looks right then it is right'...at the end of the day...it is all down to how you want it to look...clearly...either of the above would be correct at some point in time. Very nice build mate. Ron
  9. Brushes on equally well Mr C
  10. This may help you for future use...best colour match I have ever found for A&N fittings..... https://www.hiroboy.com/AN_Fitting_Hose_JointsEnds_Clear_Red_and_Blue_Paints_2x30ml--product--10989.html Ron
  11. Very nice work as ever Dan. May I ask...why the extreme of sandblasting? Ron
  12. Ooopsie! At least you worked it out in the end mate. Ron
  13. Much better mate...glad you are pleased with the result. Ron
  14. Stunning work as ever Dan...I truly envy your skills. Respect Ron
  15. Just remember to put pressure on the chuck before you power it on at it's lowest speed...you effectively become the drills speed controller and...yes...I do still have all my fingers.....honest guv. A superb build mate. Regards Ron
  16. It indeed comes from experience Mr C...which is why I mentioned the plaster on the finger...although all mini drills with variable speed will safely allow this kind of throttling back. Ron
  17. If I may offer this 'trick' for producing twisted cables...put a single nail in a piece of wood (as you have done)...take a single strand...bend it around the nail...pinch the now two open ends in a Dremel chuck...set the drill to its lowest speed and place your finger against the chuck so that it will only turn very slowly...with a plaster on your finger to protect it from heat...and switch the Dremel on...as it slowly turns it will twist the cables together for you...just be sure to keep the tension...or it will knot itself up. This method will produce much tighter...more even cables than you will ever get by hand...and can be used with many different thicknesses of wire. In this instance...5 amp fuse wire will give you a twisted cable more than half the thickness you now have...and...dare I say it...will 'look' right. Ron
  18. Excellent use of your springtime mate...very nice work. Respect Ron
  19. Nicely done Mr C...mirrors look spot on...just a shame it's finished...was just getting used to having you around again. Ron
  20. Just need to clear a work space...and waiting on a couple of small bits to arrive...couple of days hopefully...then I will crack on Regards Ron
  21. Thanks for comment Coop Yep...he's a gentleman of note for sure. Ron
  22. Like so many of us in these strange times...I have been looking for something to occupy the long days and...whilst searching through my bits and pieces...I uncovered this kit which was gifted to me by a very close friend a while back. This is probably the closest I will ever get to a Pocher 'Classic'...so I would like to do it justice in terms of detail and finish...the latter of which poses a real problem for me...as I never have liked 'showroom'...and much prefer to weather my subjects in line with reality of use etc. Those of you that still remember the Pocher Ducatti build will also remember the finishes and effects I employed...with a number of members asking me to show in more detail exactly how I achieved them. With this in mind I thought this would be a good opportunity to do just that with this build...so it will not only be a W I P...but also an SBS of how I apply those effects and finishes. Those of you familiar with the Pocher 'Classic' kits will also know that...unlike the 'Modern' era subjects...they included some levels of engine internals...crankshaft/pistons/valves etc. ...and this kit is no different. Obviously...to showcase such details would require it to be built as a 'cutaway'...however...this is not my intention...although I may choose to build and display the crankshaft/pistons along side the main engine on it's base. As a starting point...and for those of you that are not familiar with this kit...some pictures of the bits are in order... As you can see there are not a huge number of parts to it...less if you forget the internals. In addition to the kit I purchased Paul Koo's DVD of building and detailing it...and have sourced a lot of reference pictures from the internet and various sites dedicated to such projects. Let the fun begin....... Ron to be continued
  23. Thing I like most about your work is the presentation and narrative...although those wheels do their own talking. Even now...I find it strange that you downplay your considerable skills and experience so very much...when it is apparent for all to see for themselves...that you put your heart and soul into...and including...your so called mistakes. Much respect Ron
  24. Not too shabby at all Mr C...in fact...for such an angular body...pretty damn good to these old eyes. If I may offer this...as a way to combat the problems of lots of recesses...and getting paint into them...without over blowing the surrounding areas (flat panel areas)...first decant some paint...let it de-gas...thin it out and apply by airbrush...make sure to lower the pressure though...as you want to work close in...and you don't want it 'spidering' all over the place...mist coats are best...and just do the recesses for now...allow to dry for 24 hours...then apply your 'broad' coats over the whole. You could apply it by brush of course...but this can be frustrating...as laquers are best applied by air. Another option I have used in the past is 'loose' masking...this involves using a sheet of card (stiff...as you don't want it being blown down onto the surface when spraying)...hold it about an inch above the surface and lightly mist a coat into the recess area...because the paint will effectively blow under the edge of the card you will get a slight over spray...but no hard edge...which will not show when you do your broad coat. Ron
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