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Everything posted by silver911

  1. Stunning work as always my friend. Enjoy your travels. Regards Ron
  2. Hi Jason, Eucryl is a smokers tooth powder...and is used to return the 'clarity' to clear plastic after the initial sanding to remove the pin marks. It can be applied by damp brush or fingers....simply rub it well into the surface...rinse...and repeat if needed. Ordinary toothpaste can also be used for lighter scuff removal....but needs to be allowed to dry on the surface after application....then buff and rinse. Jewellers Rouge does a similar thing if that is easier for you to source (Ebay). Hope this helps. Ron
  3. With regard to polishing out injection marks on the clear.....I always use smokers toothpowder (Eucryl) from Boots or Poundland.....or jewellers rouge (ebay). Always try anything on spare sprue first....and avoid the Dremell as others have said. Ron
  4. If I may offer this with regard to the 'shiny' tubing......neither paint or varnish are real solutions.....as neither will adhere to the tubing! A far simpler solution is to pull the tubing through some folded....and very fine.....sanding sheet....1000 grit is usually about right....as you don't want to cut the surface.....just remove the shine. Hope this helps. A nice build though mate. Regards Ron
  5. Dear Sam....this is an unreserved masterclass in building a MFH kit of this scale....and a superb effort in the name of our friend Paul. Congratulations on weathering the storm of delays and problems....all the while maintaining your composure....and never deviating from the chosen path. Stunning effort my friend. Warmest regards Ron
  6. You have my utmost respect for your methodology and skill....a stunning showcase by any standards. Ron
  7. Chas (Codger) your words are eloquent and heartfelt....and give insight and perspective to a very sad cause. Whilst we are simply three like minded people...who wished nothing more than to honour a fallen brother....this project has kept the flame of Paul's memory well and truly lit....and brought his work some of the recognition he rightly deserved. As a bonus....it has brought many on here to understand what this hobby means to us all....and how the loss of a 'brother in arms' can have a sad but positive effect on us all. Sam....your words and efforts with this project do you much credit....and your skills are there for all to see. What has not been said...is that your dedication extends beyond the completion....to personal delivery to Paul's widow (Zoe)...and that my friend....IMHO....makes all your efforts so much worthier of praise. From a personal perspective....I regard myself very lucky to have known a true modeller....and to have had the honour of calling him a friend. Most of all....I consider myself very lucky to belong to this forum....and have the pleasure of learning from so very many gifted people. In reality....this build has become a tribute to all of us...in that it has helped us all to share the pleasure this hobby brings to so many like minded souls. Thank you all. Kindest regards and respect to all, Ron
  8. Sam...despite your words of praise for Chas and I.....the praise must all got to you....stunning work that any here would be proud to emulate....bravo my friend. Respect Ron
  9. To everyone who has/is supporting this build, please accept my thanks and very best wishes for Christmas and the New Year. Sam, your skill and dedication to this build are a shining example of a true modeller and friend, and your progress is a fitting tribute to Paul's memory. Mr C, you have overseen this project with great support and diplomacy whenever called upon, and I only wish I had been able to do more to help you both. Much respect to you all. Ron
  10. Sam you are doing marvellous credit to Paul's memory....superb craftsmanship and attention to detail. Much respect Ron
  11. Great work Sam....certainly a fitting progression of Paul's work....by a very professional modeller in yourself....Paul would be proud of your efforts....as am I and Codger....well done mate. Respect Ron
  12. We three are very touched at your words of support gentlemen. We are sure it will warm Zoe's heart to know how the members felt about Paul. It would be a great bonus to have the input of the members when Sam re-opens the build thread for the 'Eagle'. Thank you all, Respect Chas, Sam Ron
  13. Also found this....some interesting snippets of info... http://www.mustangandfords.com/featured-vehicles/mump-0901-1964-indy-pace-car-hardtop/
  14. Try this Oliver..... https://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1902&bih=926&ei=K911W7awE8T7kwWc1IvABA&q=64+mustang+indy+pace+car&oq=64+mustang+indy+pace+car&gs_l=img.3...2879.13670.0.14255. Regards Ron
  15. A tip for the future Olivier....if you need to paint on a chromed or painted surface....and your wheels fit that scenario exactly....matt varnish them first....which provides a 'tooth' for the other paint to grab onto...and means the coverage is improved. Paint the details (stripes in this case)...then re-seal the piece with satin or gloss varnish. This also allows you to better control the 'shine' on the piece...which adds to the final realism. Regards Ron
  16. If it helps....I have only experienced problems in getting a smooth overall coat of Molotow when using black base coats....so...as such I do not use a black base. One tip I can offer...I have used different acrylic metals as a base coat....sealing them before applying the Molotow.....and the results are very subtle changes in the tone of the Molotow. Regards Ron
  17. To be fair to yourself Olivier....and to the Molotow.....Tamiya masking tape is one of the most harmful of tapes where paint is concerned! I would recommend you use a decorators low tack tape...this is designed to be used on wallpaper without incurring damage to the delicate surface. The only time I use the Tamiya tape these days...is if I want to replicate damaged paint surfaces....such as peeling and wear....and use it by applying it for 48 hours after the paint has dried....then when you lift it you get random lifting of the paint...which nicely replicates such effects. One other point of note with the Tamiya....is that it varies enormously in tack between different rolls! This means that you run the 'risk' of success this time....but...when it really matters....disaster! Regards Ron
  18. The Amazon stuff looks pretty good A tip for you when dealing with felt for models....it tends to be 'fluffy'....which defeats the object...as car carpets are made to be hard wearing....which means they have a course/tight pile. To achieve this look....spray it lightly...a couple of mist coats are best....using the cheapest 'hairspray' (firm hold is best) you can find You can do this prior to fitting or once it is installed. Ron
  19. My best advice would be to e-mail the makers direct Olivier, regards details such as thinners and airbrushing, as I have only ever needed to use the pens direct to the surface. Regards Ron
  20. Any normal household bleach will do Olivier (I prefer the 'thick' variety as it clings to the pieces better)....the brand is of no concern. Over here the most common is 'Domestos'....all supermarkets have their own labels....and it is safe with all the plastics I have ever come across. Molotow comes in marker pens of various widths and refills etc. ....I get them from my local art shop....https://www.cassart.co.uk/molotow_liquid_chrome_marker.htm?trackterm=molotow But they are widely available in most countries.
  21. Thick household bleach is far better for removing the chrome....and doesn't leave a residue....very cheap. Regards the 'chrome' finish....'Molotow' liquid chrome is better/cheaper and has a more durable finish IMHO than Alclad. Ron
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