infofrog Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 No problem . I see the video , but its still not that easy for me . It helps to see different technique to try or give me something think about . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S5 modeller Posted May 25, 2016 Author Share Posted May 25, 2016 I tried the razor saw technique, but it left more of a trench than a line. I think my saw is too wide for it. This is my current weapon of choice, the tamiya plastic scriber.... Works quite well, but found the excess metal on the blade prevented me getting right up against the fuselage. So I took a grinder to the blade, and removed most of the material.... Much easier to get up close to a vertical face now. This is how the wings stand now, not gone for total accuracy, but just rescribed most of the prominent lines. Sanded the surface back, and now ready to see how it looks when primed. On a side note, the postman delivered this today... Let's see how shiny it gets. Got lots of masking to do next, gotta protect that white paint. Hope you like it. Matt 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infofrog Posted May 25, 2016 Share Posted May 25, 2016 I use the blade to start the line . I come back with these two tools Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S5 modeller Posted May 26, 2016 Author Share Posted May 26, 2016 Cheers for that Rick, I might invest in one of those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carloscarneiro Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 i will be Watching, great work so far 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 That's looking better! and scribing isn't such a dark art after all. You seem to be getting the hang of it. Seriously though, its well worth getting a handle on this skill as there are so many older kits out there that are unique subjects and which scrub up surprisingly well with a sand and re-scribe. It can open up a whole new range of subjects for you. Martin 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S5 modeller Posted May 26, 2016 Author Share Posted May 26, 2016 Thanks chaps. Some of the scribing is a bit suspect up close, some of the lines are a bit wobbly. They might need filling and redoing, will see what horrors the primer shows up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infofrog Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 Cheers for that Rick, I might invest in one of those. Nigel recommended them to me . Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infofrog Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 Thanks chaps. Some of the scribing is a bit suspect up close, some of the lines are a bit wobbly. They might need filling and redoing, will see what horrors the primer shows up. I can tell you this . Some filler just don't let me scribe good . Some filler are to soft or to hard for re scribing . Chip or groove into deep . You need the correct filler . Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S5 modeller Posted May 27, 2016 Author Share Posted May 27, 2016 Hi, I'm back. Managed to, finally, get my hands on some 2mm masking tape. I wanted the tamiya tape for curves, but couldn't get any, and didn't want to wait for it to be posted. Got the demarcation line masked off. Used copies of the kit decals, taped to the fuselage, as a guide for the masking, but found they weren't very straight, so just eyed it up end to end. Bit of a pain trying to get both sides to match mind you. Just got to mask the upper fuselage off next. Any suggestions on the quickest way to do this? Will it be ok to use loads of tape, or is there a better way? Do you think it might be worth sealing the tape with klear, to prevent paint bleed? Hope you like it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graeme H Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 You are on a roll now, really coming together despite the trials and tribulations you are doing some really great work 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stringbag Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 Any suggestions on the quickest way to do this? Will it be ok to use loads of tape, or is there a better way? Do you think it might be worth sealing the tape with klear, to prevent paint bleed? Hope you like it. Hi Matt. Now you have the tricky part sorted, have a think about some good old fashioned cling-film for masking the larger areas. Covers well and can be taped down along your previously masked lines. Add a couple of layers if in doubt but I have found in the past that this method works well and saves on masking tape. Looking great so far. Chris. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S5 modeller Posted May 28, 2016 Author Share Posted May 28, 2016 Masking done... Only took one strip of 40mm wide masking tape to cover the fuselage. Rest done with a combination of 6mm and 2mm wide tape. Ready for primer now. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infofrog Posted May 28, 2016 Share Posted May 28, 2016 Looking good Matt Rick 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted May 28, 2016 Share Posted May 28, 2016 Very nice! I admire your persistence with all that filling and sanding on the wings. On modern airliners at least (I do spend an awful lot of time looking out of airliner windows...) the join between the upper surface of the flaps and the wing is covered by very thin sheet metal, so there's hardly any step or groove there at all. I am getting tempted by an airliner model. Time to lie down for a bit until the feeling goes away! Regards, Adrian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeW Posted May 28, 2016 Share Posted May 28, 2016 That is some very neat masking Matt. You have it covered ( pun intended ) nicely. To save money I do the first piece in Tamiya tape, as you did, which will give you your straight edge line with no bleed through, then house painting masking tape, that blue or green stuff over the rest. It is needlessly expensive I've always thought, and is a significant cost of painting a room, but way less expensive than Tamiya, and on models, a roll lasts a long time. I've seen cling film used, as Chris mentioned, also aluminum foil, and even brown paper bags cut to suit. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S5 modeller Posted May 28, 2016 Author Share Posted May 28, 2016 Started to prime the underbelly this morning. Ran out of automotive primer though. I seem to have gad a reaction between the primer and the gloss white. Going to sand it back tomorrow,and try alclad grey primer. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infofrog Posted May 28, 2016 Share Posted May 28, 2016 WOW MATT You are having my problems. Sorry for the troubles . I hope after this , the model will flow together Rick 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S5 modeller Posted May 29, 2016 Author Share Posted May 29, 2016 Thanks Rick, it does seem to be putting up a last bit of resistance. Cor, spraying alclad don't half give you a headache, even outside in the open air. Think I need to invest in a decent respirator mask. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viking Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 Nice job on the masking Matt. I've had similar reactions with primer so no longer put it over white. Just spray the silver after masking up. you should be able to smooth it off though. Cheers John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S5 modeller Posted May 29, 2016 Author Share Posted May 29, 2016 Cheers John. I still had a bit of a reaction even after switching to alclad primer. I let the first coat flash off, then hit it with some 2000 grit wet and dry. Put another coat of alclad primer on, and it's solved the problem. This is how she now looks with a coat of alclad gloss black base. It hasn't come out as shiny and smooth as I hoped. I'm going to let it dry thoroughly then micromesh it. Hopefully I can improve the finish. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graeme H Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 Wow, another great recovery, well done that man 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infofrog Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 Nice job Matt . I used Alclad black primer , tell someone told me about tamiya black with 20 percent clear and x20 white cap thinner . I like it better . Its looking good Matt Rick 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S5 modeller Posted May 29, 2016 Author Share Posted May 29, 2016 Cheers guys. Rick, when you say tamiya black, do you use enamel or acrylic? I looked up, and ordered, some x20 and it's enamel based, so I presume you're using enamel. I think my airbrush was spitting a bit, that's why I got the rough finish. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infofrog Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 Nope Matt Tamiya Acrylic . You can thin it with X20A white cap acrylic thinner . You can use X20 yellow cap is a Lacquer thinner . tamiya paints can be thin with either thinner . The X20 yellow cap dries fast and harder . The X20A is more slow drying thinner which 95 percent time I us X20A white cap If I need to paint a part small and fast . I use X20 yellow cap thinner . Rick 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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