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  1. looks like a beautiful kit, the level of detail is insane compared to the Eastern Express IL-96 kit I have just done. I think you can get more detailed resin engines for this kit but at the moment I don't know if it is worth it - the engines look satisfactory to me fuselage is a similar size to the IL96-400/ IL96T + IL96M. note the curved fuselage at the rear for the civil IL86 (above) a snippet of the colour scheme i intend to do. decals are not available but they are available for the 767 the fuselage is obviously larger on the IL-86 but I still think the 767 decals will be suitable for the logo on the tail and the red stripes separating the blue and green (painted areas) from the white fuselage.
  2. After moving home it’s time to refurbish the casualties of the move, there is nothing major just little bits and pieces that have gone astray, luckily I have a ton of spare parts to fix things. this early BMPT only has a few bits missing, nothing too drastic. the T 80s from trumpeter haven’t fared too badly, but they are quite robust models. The T 14 and T 15 apart from a couple of antennas are ok, they were never completely assembled anyway, the protective green is from Mig Ammo, doesn’t look too bad in the photos but is quite dark in real life, not sure whether it needs lightening or not. these have been painted in the new AK protective green, again it the photos it looks not too bad, a slightly different shade but still looks darker in real life and probably need a thin lighter coat? This T 14 probably fared the worst, antenna’s broken or missing, mg broken, slat armour dropped off, it was done as a bit of fun based on a photoshopped picture, the only Syrian flag I could find was in the SModels decal set in their Russian vehicles, however they are really thick and look more like stickers than decals no matter how much decal solution you put on them! i will just update this thread as I get round to finishing something!
  3. First coat of paint on the Kamaz Typhoon from Zvezda, has an interior but not a lot can be seen, even less when I add the windows, still some small bits to add.
  4. Next up on the bench is this rather beautyfull kit from miniart. The SU-76m The kit comes with 5 figures, a fair amount of PE Lot's of decal options And teeny tiny tracklinks yeeeey! having a first look at the sprues i'm seeing a lot of small parts but very little flash. The plastic feels a tad bit soft. The overall detail on the parts is great! I wanted to build an open interior vehicle for a while now and this kit came at a bargain price so i picked it up real cheap. Also, this will be my first experience with miniart. Can't wait to kick this one off. Feel free to tag along. Bring beer and snacks, grab a chair and enjoy the ride. I expext this to be a slow build though. I'm having very little spare time at the moment due to work, school and next week we are starting a complete renovation in our bathroom. However, if i can find some time on the bench, i'll keep you guys posted as always. Cheers! 👍👍👍
  5. Hallo After a longer WIP I finished my model. I took a break in plastic modelling to enjoy my model railway. Now the kit of the Su-34 is quite good. There is not much to say about, it works straight forward. There I replaced the nozzles by Reskit and took also etched parts from Eduard. Eduard parts are some help, but nothing really special. The Quintas cockpit was very useful. Masks from New Ware and Galaxy were the best aid during the painting process. The Master items of discharger are worth to mention. They are tiny, not small. So you need a quiet hand to install them. Just on the tailerons I used them. The pitot tube was also from Master. Decals and stencils are from Bregnun. They are great! To mention is the design of the gear in the kit. This is very well done! So have a look, and enjoy. Happy modelling
  6. Hallo This build is my second Sukhoi of the 27 family. I have as additional the etched parts from Eduard and the resin nozzle from ResKit. The pitot tube from Master and masks from NewWare and Galaxy. To get a better understanding for my build, I relay on two sources: https://www.airplane-pictures.net/type.php?p=2364 https://www.flickr.com/photos/124748333@N07/albums/72157668657957124/ and last not least: My aircraft will be a bright camo a/c with white radom. Even if it is not quite accurate because of a lack of decals. But I like this scheme most of all. Happy modelling
  7. This is the Zvezda kit in 1/350. The kit itself is pretty simple with no real fit issues, the plastic is a little soft though. I picked it up second hand for 5 bucks as the decal sheet was stuffed. Upon review it looks as though the K-19 sailed without any identification numbers on the sail, so this is what I did. I also painted the silver sonar sections on the bow, but did manage to save the bridge windows that give soviet submarines that distinctive look. I kept the weathering pretty light. As for the K-19 herself, she gained the rather harsh nickname of "Hiroshima" while in service. Project 658 submarines were rushed into production in response to US advances in nuclear submarines in the early 1960s. The K-19 would be the first nuclear powered submarine mounting nuclear ballistic missiles to enter service with the Soviet Navy. However, due to the rushed production, multiple workers died while constructing her, mistakes were made in construction and some safety and back up systems were not installed. Several Russian commanders thought the submarines unseaworthy and perhaps they were right, as K-19 would suffer several major accidents, the worse being the loss of coolant to her reactors on her initial patrol, causing the death of several crew members due to radiation exposure. This incident was responsible for the withdrawal of all 'Hotel 1 Class' (NATO designation) for upgrades. K-19 would soldier on until 1991, where she was decommissioned and eventually sent to the scrapper.
  8. After reviewing this kit a while back here, I figured I'd give it a go, cos I do rather like these Russian side-by-side two-seaters, and I've not built anything modern for a while. I've built a few Kitty Hawk kits over the years, and found that as long as you test fit and keep your wits about you, they build up into pretty good models. So, with as many wits as I can scrape together, I set about building it, which is nice I'll try to flag up any gotchas so you don't have to find them out the hard way, but there's always a better way of doing things, so I reserve the right to be wrong at any point I began at the beginning (really? ) with the cockpit, and the seats, which are made up from a surprisingly large number of parts. I always clean up parts prior to fitting to remove mould seams, any flash and such that inevitably crop up with even the bestest moulding machines. The seats went together well with a bit of the aforementioned fettling, and given the part count, I took my time, adding a few parts and leaving them to dry off while I did something else. Each one has 20 parts before you break out the seatbelts, so if you try to put them all on together, you're gonna have a mushy mess on your hands. I ran across an issue with the rear panels on the headbox, which were a bit wide at the front, so I trimmed them down and they fit nicely now. I also noticed that the kit sides have two location pegs, but only one hole in the seat pan, so I cut off the rear one. It doesn't affect fit at all, as they butt hard up against the rear of the seat. The end result is some rather nice seats Their ejection rails are a single styrene part with a PE back, but there's a little break in the groove that holds the PE, so I sliced and trimmed that out so they fit within it better. Quite delicate, so I'm trying to be careful when I'm handling them. Incidentally, some of the part numbers are switched on the small parts, so check the diagrams, rather than trusting you have the correct arm-rest or whatever. The cockpit floor needs a few parts adding, and those are quite small and delicate, so before you add those, widen the slots for the launch rails a bit, so they fit a little looser. You'll thank yourself later Here's a weird thing. There's only one pair of rudder pedals, and they seem to be fitted between the two pilot stations, with one pedal for each pilot. Is that a mistake on the designer's part, or is that how they look? The rear bulkhead is a snug fit to the floor too, so test that and check if it needs a little easing. Now for the engines. Cutting and preparing took a couple of minutes, and I cut them dremelled off the ejection turrets inside to save weight, even though it's unnecessary for all but the one at the rear. Less plastic at the back, less nose-weight needed I glued two sections together first, and allowed the glue to set up a little before I tried in the third section, holding the ends betwixt thumb and forefinger while I got the join nice and neat. You can run glue along the last two joins from inside if you've left the first joint long enough, and adjust the seams while the glue is still moist ( ) . I'm not bothering with ancillaries or painting the engines on mine, so I won't be hiding the seams, but with care you can get them nicely lined up to minimise the job. The 2nd one was a tad harder because I hadn't left the first seam long enough, but overall not too difficult. I later glued in the engine fronts, but left the rear off for now, while I fill the three seams that'll probably never be seen The gear bays were a mixed bag. The nose gear bay is easy enough up until you put the rearmost C-shaped panel in, which I think is a little wide for the aperture. I test fitted the main parts of the bay in the lower fuselage, and couldn't find a way to make part C26 fit unaltered. The groove it fits into could be the culprit, but I ended up sanding away the lip until it was very small, after which it fitted nicely. Part C25 fits the bay ONE way, which you can tell by looking at it from above. The end of the lips taper in at one end, and that matches the contours of the bay. That'll save some head-scratching There's a couple of square ejector-pin marks in the bottom of this part, one recessed, the other proud. I put a slip of styrene in the low one and sanded them both back flush with a narrow stick. The main bays go together fairly easily, but F16 isn't used for both bays. F15 is used with B30, and F16 is fitted to B29. Those can be added after you've built the bay to make things easier for yourself. The same goes for D9 and D10. The numbers are switched in the diagrams, so swap 'em over if you haven't yet spotted they wriggle in the wrong direction. The gun bay is a simple affair, so not worthy of leaving the access panel off, so I built it up without titivating it, and won't paint it either. part F33 is a bit mushy as well as being tiny, so take care fitting it. My barrel had a weakness in the corrugated part, probably caused by two cooling wavefronts of styrene meeting and not mixing well. I glued that back together, and will replace the muzzle with some micro-tubing to get a nice hollow barrel and a realistic steel finish. Here's a pic of the various assemblies sat together: I'm currently working on the fit of the engines to the fuselage, which are held into the lower fuselage by a slot on the bottom of the engine, and two tabs on the leading edge, which you can see in the pic above. The bulkheads that glue into the fuselage aren't tooled properly, and one of the slots has been inverted in CAD, and has been moulded as a rectangular block sticking out. Oops! I chopped them off and drilled a new slot, tweaking fit as I went. They should fit reasonably central in their nacelles now, once I've painted the front and rear. Those two afterburner rings also had a couple of cold-front weak-points, so I drizzled glue in there and left them to set up. I've just started cleaning the parts up, with tiny amounts of flash on the uprights that I would rather remove, even though you'll be hard pushed to see up the tail without a flashlight! That's where we're up to as of now, and I'm quite enjoying myself. I would have held out for some Eduard parts to detail things normally, but as the canopy doesn't open, there's not a lot of point me lavishing detail on it, even if the sets were available (which they aren't at time of writing). If the exterior sets arrive before I get the fuselage closed up, I could be tempted, and I've just noticed that KH are working on a set of metal legs for this kit. After building the AMK Mig-31 and watching its legs spread under the weight over the next year or so, I'd really like to get hold of a set Shall I carry on with a detailed description of the build, or just crack on in a "today I built the xxxx" manner?
  9. Folks, I've finished the BMPT and Tim is happy for me to publish the RFI. I hope you enjoy it. The WiP is here It was a fun build although copying the camouflage and getting modulation got a bit tedious. Tim wanted it dusty, which does kind of go with the paint scheme. The paints were a mixture of Mig and Tamiya. The Mig expo paint set was totally off (for this scheme anyways). I used the Mig Warm Sand for the desert yellow and NATO Brown for the dark red/brown. The dark sand I mixed Tamiya XF-59 and XF-72 until it looked right, because it was what I had to hand. I used Quick Shine for the gloss coat, Mig desert wash for the pin wash, Vallejo Matt varnish and finished with Mig dust pigment and thinners to stabilise. Bill
  10. Hallo This is my 4th T-34. The first one was from Dragon without interior. This one is from MiniArt the T-34 85 from plant 112 in 1944. I built two, the 76 and 85 from AFV. The kits are far-out not so detailed as the MiniArt ones. Here I am amazed about the details and accuracy. After building quite some MiniArt kits, I know the pattern of shortcomings. If you know them, they do not matter. At my first MiniArt tank, the T-60 I got crazy about them. · Holes are sometimes too small · If you have locating pins you must deepen holes, or enlarge them in diameter · Locating cuboidal embossments are sometimes difficult to recognize before cutting the part from the sprue · The instruction here you must be careful reading the direction of arrows Today I got also well along. What did I do? At the start I took Friul tracks. Since the links have no pins from the kit! Here I had some tracks in storage, so for this tank I will use an early track. For the second T-34 I will use a late track. There is one issue, where I am not sure. The discrepancies in colors in instruction of AFV vs. MiniArt. MiniArt claims for the rear hull the red ant corrosion color like Minium. In the front the blue grey at the floor and white for side walls. Some equipment at the side walls in blue grey also. The cover for the suspension axles at the floor in white. Well, does anyone have a guideline for the interior color system of Russian tanks in WW2? Now, it is funny I like this kit. I have a very quiet place, unnatural quiet, but my wife is in quarantine because of a positive PCR Test for Covid. Even my dog stays with her, so it is absolute quiet. Not sick, not ill, just reading in a room isolated. What you can see until today is plastic work, my finished tracks, the side walls and suspension, wheels and engine all done. Tomorrow I will finish up my gear box actuator and some interior. Afterward I will spray the first time at this kit. Happy modelling
  11. Hallo In order to counteract one of the often occurring somewhat bland impressions in British camouflage, I decided to shade the green and brown color a bit. I usually just spray it green and brown. It looks so unnaturally clean, quite the opposite of the photos. In principle, you can shade dark beforehand. That's right, but only in the dark direction. The bleaching is by no means there. When the masks are gone. Bleaching is no longer possible. So, I decided to do this process with the masks in one go per color. In both directions, dark shade and bleaching! Now the model has just been sprayed, without further aging and weathering. What is your opinion? Happy modelling
  12. Hallo I am working with Hasegawa kits and the Huricane Mk. I in 1/48. I want to build 2 of this aircarft: One Luftwaffe and one Russian. Does anyone have original photos of these 3 aircraft? Many thanks in forward! Happy modelling
  13. Cold War Soviet Fighters-Bombers Paint Set Vol.2 (A.MIG-7239) AMMO of Mig Jiménez This six-paint set arrives in a cardboard box with a new more recycling-friendly card inner tray with some colour use suggestions on the rear in the form of three-view profiles of the aircraft. Inside are six bottles of various green and brown camo shades in different stages of separation. Each bottle contains 17ml of paint that is dispensed by a dropper that is found under the yellow screw-top cap. Inside each bottle is a little stirring ball that rattles when agitated. AMMO paints separate quite readily, so having a metal ball in the bottle makes mixing them a lot quicker and easier. We’re all familiar with the quality of AMMO paints by now, and they have a pretty good reputation amongst us modellers, and dry a little slower than some of the competition, which can be of benefit when airbrushing or hand painting details. This is the second set in the series, although we've not yet reviewed that one, you can get it here to complement this set. The colours in the box are as follows: A.MIG-0051 Medium Light Green A.MIG-0058 Light Green Khaki A.MIG-0063 Pale Grey (RLM76) A.MIG-0076 Brown Soil A.MIG-0135 Burnt Cinnamon A.MIG-0206 FS34079/BS641 (RLM81) The bottles all look rather similar when they have been allowed to separate in their carton thanks to gravity, but once agitated the differences become apparent. You may want to pick up, or already have white or dark grey/black to modulate the other shades to depict fading, or to create a darker shade to paint a base onto which the pure and lightened colours can be applied. There are many, many Soviet Cold War era aircraft models out there in every scale, so whether you’re a first-time modeller in this category or not, the colours will come in very useful to simplify the painting process, especially the choosing of shades. One addition that would have been useful would have been the actual Soviet paint codes or names to simplify the process further. You may have noticed in the photo above that someone at AMMO has inadvertently labelled the Su-25 Frogfoot as a Mig-25. They won’t live that one down in the hurry! Conclusion If you want to create a realistically painted Cold War Soviet fighter or bomber, this set and its stablemate Volume 1 are going to be very useful to take away any guesswork when it comes time for paint. Review sample courtesy of
  14. 9A52-2 SMERCH-M 1/35th scale Trumpeter 01020 Hmmmm! Now, here is the dilema??? Two at Once? This is a dilema many of us come across, especially these days with competition as it is - MENG or Trumpeter, Trumpeter or MENG - which one shall I build? Well, the £20 difference in basic costs does make a certain statement and as I already have the Trumpeter Scud-B on the back burner I decided on economy. A lot fewer sprues but much larger and, without sitting down for several hours to count them, the number of parts would look to be similar quantity. Costs in at £79.99 RRP Section 1 and 49 parts. Construction of the main chassis - right side At 322mm long and 20mm/35mm across this is the most important part of the chassis All jigged up on my Picador Blocks, the chassis is square and true. Section 2 and a further 25 parts complete phase 2 of the main chassis At this point, everything fits in extremely well with no surprises. So far, all parts are well engineered. The left side-member is not yet glued but is held in place with tape to ensure the cross-members dry correctly. A few more bits still to add. Next Time: Remaining Chassis & Engine
  15. Offset Scale Models is to release a 1/48th Russian naval tow tractor resin kit. Source: https://www.facebook.com/Offsetmodels/posts/102451561264857 https://www.facebook.com/Offsetmodels/posts/145126646997348 V.P.
  16. At last I finally completed this offering from Unimodel
  17. Here my early MIG collection. MIG 15 from Tamiya and Revell. MIG 17. Kit, oh I do not remember! MIG 19. Here, the kit I do also not remember!
  18. Su-34 Fullback (KH80141) 1:48 Kitty Hawk The Sukhoi Su-34, known by the NATO reporting name 'Fullback' is an all-weather strike fighter, designed to replace the ageing Su-24 Fencer in Russian service. Despite being based on an existing design (the Su-27), the type endured an extremely protracted development, punctuated by the collapse of the Soviet Union. Eventually, 200 of the type are expected to enter service, replacing approximately 300 Su-24s. There are many differences between the Su-27 and the Su34, principal amongst which is a completely new nose, which accommodates the crew side-by-side, and gives it a duck-billed look that is hard to capture, plus small canards forward of the main planes, all of which has a reduced front radar signature, due to basic stealth shaping. Since September 2015, Su-34s have been involved in the conflict in Syria, dropping BETAB-500 and OFAB-500 bombs. There has already been interest in the type from overseas customers. Algeria has ordered an initial batch of 12 aircraft, while Vietnam is apparently also interested in the type. The Kit This is a complete new tool from Kitty Hawk, following on from another manufacturer's slightly flawed attempt, so a lot of people are hoping it's right. It arrives in a large box, as it is a big aircraft with 12 hardpoints for attaching munitions, of which KH are apt to include many! The boxtop art shows a Fullback climbing out after causing some chaos with some oil storage tanks, and inside the lid it quite a full box – the artwork header has also been updated from the original to a more modern, funky look to catch the eye, as you can see above. Many of these semi-blended designs are moulded with wings integral to the fuselage halves, which reduces the part count and usually means that half the box is taken up with just two parts. Not so here, as the wings are separate, and all the available space is taken up with parts. The fuselage halves still take up the full length of the box, and there is a high parts count due to the generous provision of Russian weapons. Beside the two fuselage halves there are thirteen sprues in pale grey styrene, a sprue of clear parts, four resin (yes, resin!) exhaust cans, a sheet of Photo-Etch (PE) parts, and three decal sheets of various sizes. The instruction booklet has a glossy cover with fold-out leaves that detail the box contents in front and painting of the weapons at the rear, while the full colour painting and markings guide is found in the centre of the booklet, which will be more use when removed carefully and the staples bent back so your instruction booklet doesn't fall apart, which is exactly what I've just done. First impressions are good, with a little flash around the large complex fuselage mouldings, which isn't entirely surprising, as they are complex shapes. There are slide-moulding seams behind and forward of the cockpit opening that will need a little attention before construction, and just aft of that a few panel lines have been tooled very faintly so they don't catch on the mould as the part is ejected. These would be best deepened with your favourite scribing tool before you get too far into the build. The inboard walls of the rear engine nacelles also suffer from this to a slightly lesser extent, so while you have your scriber out, fix those too. They're not defects, but necessities of production that have been present since injection moulding model kits began. The massive array of weapons provides spans six sprues, and it's best to consider them as a generic set, as there are some that won't be used and more that the Su-34 can carry. It's cheaper for KH to tool one set of weapons for all Soviet/Russian subjects than individual load-outs again and again. Construction begins with the cockp…. Nope, with the engines for a change, which KH have included for good measure, and to which are fair quantity of parts are devoted, only to be hidden away unless you're planning on opening up some panels, which will of course require some surgery to the upper fuselage, but if you flip it over, you'll see that KH have thoughtfully included two panels above each engine that can be cut out from the inside to provide access to the engines, with rivets engraved on the interior so they can be left lying about as if they are being worked on. Sure, they're a bit thick, but this is a much better option than just hiding the detail away, and if you're interested in scale fidelity, you have a shape template to base your work on. Both Saturn AL31FM1s are included, and they are set aside until later on in the build. Whether you paint them fully is entirely up to you and whether you want to cut those panels out, but I'd probably just do the front and rear faces, as they're all that will be seen eventually. Now it's the turn of the cockpit, and the first item is a pair of well-detailed Zvezda K36dm seats, which have PE seatbelts included, and are an improvement on earlier kits. The cockpit floor has the side consoles moulded in, and slots for the ejection ladders, plus control columns and decals for all panels, which are printed on a small decal sheet that has an almost photographic look to it. The rear bulkhead and access door fit to the back, and the instrument panel to the front to finish off, then this too is set aside while the gear bays and cannon bay are built up. The former are well-detailed with individual panels and additional parts to give a busy look, while the cannon bay is somewhat simpler with only a few parts in addition to the breech. The nose gear bay is more complex, and has the hatch for crew access moulded in, with a ladder built into the nose gear bay later on. This explains why you should never see a Fullback with its cockpit open, unless the crew are about to disappear on their ejection seats. Finally, the fuselage is ready to close up, after the aforementioned fettling and the removal of the residual sprue gates that can be found on the mating surfaces in places, which is an effort to avoid marring surface detail and IMHO is a great idea that is slowly creeping into kits from various manufacturers. The gear bays, two engine supports, the engines themselves and the cockpit are all added to the lower half, with the upper fuselage dropped on and glued along with the canards, which pivot on a pin, so you can set them to whatever pitch seems appropriate after checking your references. The forward facing radar is fitted to the blunt end of the fuselage, and the nose cone is popped over it, covering it up unless you do some scratching and pose it opened. The pilot's HUD is a sizeable part, and has a trough in the cockpit coaming, a PE glass support, and two part glazing, plus a horizontal lens on the clear sprue. A few probes and the refuelling probe are added, although I'd leave those until later on in case I broke them off. The twin vertical stabilisers are next, with a single thickness that is bolstered at the root, and with separate rudder, antennae and clear formation light. These are also set aside (the theme of this build!) while the exhausts and stinger are made up. You may have noticed that the exhaust cans are resin, and you can choose open or closed positions to suit your intended situation, with the tabs at the rear locking it in place on the two-part exhaust trunks. Careful painting whilst paying attention to your references will result in a good finish to this area. The Stinger is the fairing between the engines, and contains the rear radar, as well as various other equipment, and the chaff and flare dispensers that are fired to confuse and thwart incoming missiles. The body of the stinger is two part, with a recess in the top for the PE dispensers, and holes in the rear that accommodate three PE exhaust vents, which will need rolling to fit the contours of the surrounding area. These assemblies are all fitted to the rear along with some more small parts, and the tail fins attach to the sides of the fuselage with two locating pins each. Before the engine nacelles are installed, additional parts are added inside the main wheel bays that will mate with the corresponding cut-outs in the nacelles later on. Each nacelle is built up in the same manner, with a main outer skin, small PE auxiliary intakes on the sides, plus a pair of blow-in doors further back. The intake ramp attaches to the eventual roof of the intake, and a two-part trunk changes the interior profile to match the cylindrical shape of the engine front. A small elliptical insert is added to the outside of each one before they are fitted to the fuselage, along with a few more small parts hither and thither. It still needs wings, which is next and begins with the elevators, which have fairings added at their base, and when they are attached to the fuselage, another part is added, which connects them to a hinge-point in the fuselage rear. The main wings are each two parts, with slats and flaps front and rear respectively, along with a small wing fence toward the tip, and a choice of straight or curved fairing where the leading edge meets the tip rails, which you'll need to check your references to select the correct one for your airframe, as all the decal profiles show curved fairings. They fit into the fuselage on two tabs with a good mating surface, and should blend with the upper surface with a little care and test-fitting. Landing is tricky without wheels, and Russian fighters invariably have tough gear for rough field operation, and twin rear wheels on bogies are the norm. The Fullback has sturdy struts reminiscent of the Mig-31, but with both wheels on the outer face of the bogie. The legs have separate scissor-links and additional actuators, with a pair of two-part wheels each, which have decent hub and tyre detail. There should be some circumferential tread, which is absent due to moulding limitation, but as these aircraft are often seen with threadbare tyres, painting them to resemble well-used examples gets round needing to replicate this. Either that or you could treat yourself to a set of wheels from Eduard that will doubtless fit this newer tooling. The nose gear is also pretty substantial and has a high parts count, which includes a pair of clear landing lights. The crew ladder is in two parts and fits to the rear of the leg, above the mudguard that nestles behind the tyres to reduce FOD intrusion into the airframe on rough airstrip movements. The wheels are each two parts, and again there is no tread, despite it being shown on the diagrams. Happily, each gear leg can be added to a completed airframe, which is good news as it saves them from damage during handling. There are scrap diagrams of each main gear bay showing how things should look once you have installed them and the small surrounding panel at the rear of the bays. The front gear bay doors are single parts, while the rear bay doors all have additions before they can be inserted, with actuators adding a bit of realism. More scrap diagrams show their orientation after they are added, so there's little chance of making a slip-up here. Before you can load up your Fullback, you need pylons, which are all fitted with PE shackles or styrene sway-braces before they are added to the model alongside the wingtip rail. A twin rail fits between the nacelles, and either three underwing pylons, or two and a double are attached to each wing, plus the wingtip pods already mentioned. Additional single rails fit to the underside of the nacelles level with the gear legs. As already mentioned, there is a ton of weapons on those six sprues, with ten pages devoted to building them up. This is what's selected to be carried by the Su-34: 2 x FAB-500-M54 general purpose bomb 2 x BETAB-500 bunker buster 2 x OFAB-250-SZN bomb 2 x SPPU-22 gun pod 2 x U-6 pylon adapter 2 x R77 Missile Adder medium range A2A missile 2 x R73 Archer short range A2A Missile with APU-73 adapter 2 x UBK-23 gun pod 2 x GUV-8700 gun pod 2 x R27-ET/R27-ER Alamo medium range missiles with APU-470 pylon adapter 2 x R27-T Alamo medium range missiles with APU-470 pylon adapter 4 x R60 Aphid short-range A2A missile with three types of pylon adapters 2 x U-4 adapter rail 2 x UB-32 rocket pod 2 x KH-35 Kayak anti-shipping missile 2 x S-24 rocket with APU-68 pylon adapter 2 x KH-23 Kerry A2G missile with APU-68 pylon adapter 2 x KH-59 Kazoo TV guided missile 2 x KAB-250 satellite guided bomb 4 x FAB-250-M62 bomb 4 x FAB-250-TS bomb (there's a spelling mistake showing it as "F2B" on the instructions) 4 x FAB-250-M54 bomb 2 x BETAB-500-ZD penetrator bomb 4 x SAB-100 high explosive bomb 2 x S-25-A, B & C rocket 2 x RBK-500-250 cluster bomb 2 x B-8M rocket pod 2 x B-13 rocket pod 2 x KH-25-ML/MT Karen A2G Missile 2 x KH-29L Kedge laser guided A2G missile 2 x KAB-500KR TV guided bomb 2 x KAB-500L laser guided bomb 2 x KAB-1500-L/KR laser/TV guided bomb 2 x UB-16 rocket pod 2 x KH-31 A2G missile 2 x KH-58ME Kilter missile 2 x KH-58 Kilter missile with AKU-58 pylon adapter There are two pages of diagrams showing which stations the various weapons are suitable for, but if you're going for accuracy, check your references for some real-world loadouts, as with all aircraft there are limitations. The parts on the sprues are also marked by designation, with all the parts for each weapon sub-numbered within that section of the sprue. Markings The largest decal sheet is for the armament, with each weapon's stencils and markings sectioned off with a dotted line and the designation, which will make applying them a much easier proposition. Four pages of colour diagrams at the rear of the booklet show their colours and markings. Once you have unpicked the main painting guide from the centre of the booklet, you can rotate them so they're easier on the eye, where you'll discover that there are four markings options, each with four views so that there is no guesswork with the camouflaged options. Everything is a good size too, which makes reading the decal numbers and other details a lot easier than some of their first kits, proving that KH have come a long way in all departments. There is a variety of schemes available out of the box, two of which use the three shades of blue camo, one in primer, and another in dark blue over blue, and all rocking a fetching white radome. There are also large expanses of bare metal where paint wouldn't last, on the underside of the engine nacelles, and the leading edges of the elevators (hot missile exhaust?). From the box you can build one of the following rather generically described airframes: Russian Aerospace Defence Forces Red 02 in three-tone blue camo Russian Aerospace Defence Forces Red 03 in three-tone blue camo Russian Aerospace Defence Forces in primer Russian Aerospace Defence Forces in dark blue over pale blue It is unclear where and by whom the decals were printed by, but in general they are of good quality with decent sharpness and colour density except for the use of half-tones to create orange and the dielectric panel decals. On my sample, the dielectric panels also expose an element of mis-registration of the white, which is offset, giving the panels a drop-shadow effect on the sheet, which will probably disappear once applied. I would however be tempted to paint them and create some masks using the decals as templates. The white also shows up in the outlined digits as well as the tail decal BBC POCCИИ having the entire white outline projecting from the top, rather than equally spaced around the letters. Conclusion The plastic looks great, and as Kitty Hawk has stated that they want their Su-34 to be the best on the market in the scale, it shows that they have put additional effort into this model. The huge choice of weapons are also highly detailed, which are likely to be seen again as KH fill more gaps in the Soviet/Russian line-up, and we can forgive them for the little faux pas with the decals, which can be rectified fairly easily – hopefully it's an isolated case. As to shape, I've put some of the main parts together with tape to get a feeling for the overall shape of the airframe, and my first impression is that it's a good overall shape, with maybe a little more of a flare to the tip of the radome needed at the front, but it's very hard to gauge against photos of the airframe due to distortion and such, so I'll leave the final decision to you guys. If you want to discuss it further, start a thread in the main forums and link back to this thread Very highly recommended. We're now building this one, and you can find the thread here, with plenty of hints and tips, as well as pictures of the process Review sample courtesy of Available soon from major hobby shops
  19. Hallo This is my way to get a little distance from modelling aircarft. This famous truck is my first of many. The AAA I also did. In a few days I show you this truck too! Happy modelling
  20. Hi everyone This is my 1/72 S-300PMU by Model Collect. This is my First AFV model so sorry if I refer to parts of the vehicle wrong. This was a good kit, but the instructions were a bit unclear and did not have all the parts listed where they would go. The kit came with two small PE parts which was nice even though it did not say where half of them went. The fit was good on most of the parts even though most of it did not have locator pins for example on the missile tube which made it difficult to get parts in the right place. I struggled with putting the cab on as it did not fit but I think that was my fault for putting the control centre at the back too far forward. I painted it in AK’s protective 4BO and preshaded it with MiG us olive drab. I did some small leaks of oil with the Ak weathering pencils. I then mixed Pva, some fine dirt and an acrylic burnt umber to make the mud which I applied with an old paint brush. I strugled with making the tyres look dirty as i wanted to keep the tred but my mud mixture was too thick. Would any one be able to recomend a cheap way to weather the tyres? I wanted to create the metal rope shown on the front of the box and in pictures I had seen. I did this using three bits of copper wire from a motor and spinning them together by putting them in a drill. I then separated the ends and made the loops at the end. Thanks for looking
  21. Hi everyone This is my second su-30sm by Zvezda. I thought I would do a second one so I could correct the mistakes I did on the last one. The kit had nice details and Shallow panel line. I was going to add rivets but I could not find blueprints which h showed them so I only applied some on the metal bit in front of the gun as I could see them clearly in pictures. The kit did not need much filler and went together easily. I saw this camo online and thought that it would be fun to try and recreate. is first sprayed the engine colours before painting the whole model as it was easier than doing it after like I did last time. Then I sprayed the whole plane in AK's Blue Grey. I then masked the white camouflage using blue tac and then the same for the gunship grey part. I then sealed it in a gloss varnish as the plane in the pictures looked gloss. I kept the plane clean as I think it was a prototype which didn’t see much action. Thanks for looking.
  22. Hi This is my 1/72 MI-24P by Zvezda. This kit has great detail for a 1/72 kit as it had the options for the maintenance hatches to be open so you can see the gear box and Engines. The kit had realy good fit but it was a tight fit with the cockpit and front part of the fuselage. It was nice for it to come with the rotor blades pre bent to the shape that they would be when on the ground. The kit had an option for a dark grey scheme and this camoflauge one which i decided to go with. I used the Hataka Russian helicopter paint set. Panel lines where very shallow and didnt hold the wash i made very well. I made a wash out of black poster paint and water as i would be able to remove it if it didnt look good. I heavy weathered it using the wash i made and AK weathering pencils. thanks for looking
  23. I am hoping that someone here may be able to answer my question on W.W.II Russian Hurricanes that were converted into 2 seaters. I am particularly after info for the rear seat's gun and mount. I've found pictures and a few builds of this aircraft type, but nothing that really gave me some insight into that rear position. What type of gun was used? gunner's seat? how was the gun mounted? If anyone can shed some light on this for me, I'd appreciate it.
  24. Hello guys, here are the photos of my most recently completed model, Trumpeter's Mig 3 in 1:48.
  25. dov

    Su-57

    Sukhoi Su-57 Su-57 from Wiki in English This aircraft I can call the best a/c ever built. After getting details of this a/c and getting through all the properties, this is an accumulation of all refinements of today’s aero-design. Beside the aero-design, the jet propulsion belongs also to the latest developments. The electronic, avionic and weapon technology fulfills every desire you may have today. Why is this development such a glory? Well, the way up to the sky is not a straight one. Very bumpy with many setbacks. The Russians learned. Each design can become a good design, if you are under really very hard pressure. Otherwise, you will not create a good design. It would be a low compromise. If you have a strong need, a shortage on materials, everything like this can push you forward. After all the decades from th1960s on until today, the jet fighter development all over the world went in an interesting way. After collecting the knowledge of supersonic flight, and the creation of fighters, which can fly them, some nations learned their lessons, and some not. Some nations thought, with money you can buy everything, but wisdom and intelligence you cannot buy in the supermarket or at the black market. Wisdom takes time to grow. Decades and generations. The design of every aircraft tells us a story about the people behind. The people who ordered it and the people who designed it. Such a thing cannot lie. It is. It is a fact. It talks to us more, as somebody may like it. So, do the F-35 and the Su-57 talk to us. Happy modelling I was in the design field for decades. I got the clue, to read from designs and programs, the same way, as people in Bletchley Park read the keys of the Enigma. In my work, it took us (office of 5 people) two decades to overrun a worldwide company with thousands of specialists.
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