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About scoopey

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  1. I thought I'd post a video of the South Traverser
  2. These are pictures of my relay interlock circuits triggered by each traverser. When the motor is in operation the lead in tracks have power disabled. It will prevent a team being driven on or off the moving traverser.
  3. Aha i did not see your reply Robin.... I've not been to Blackpool for a long time. When I decided to do this I was shocked to discover the Balloons and Railcoaches are now heritage tours. Their design was decades ahead in style. I really need to find out if other non Bkackpool trams "visited" the line. I have heard that at one point there was a Hong Kong tram there which then ended up in Birkenhead. When I've finished I want to have a Dreadnought, Toast rack and Boat.
  4. This is the South traverser. The control panel is only temporary. Since this might be shown at an exhibition the controls have to be moveable from the front to the back
  5. Wiring done on the traversers. This is the "North" traverser, so called as it's at the northern end of the railway. Already there are microswitches underneath to select tracks. The additional six switches in the picture are positional switches. They are triggered in sequence, three on the outward travel and three on the inward travel. Two are endstops and the other 4 are dispositions. They are actually 2 pairs that are triggered at the same time. The reason for this is that microswitches tend to trigger slightly different if the trigger is being pulled or pushed. The difference is p
  6. And I'm still not finished with microswtiches... Need to add another 6 to each traverser to trigger the motor stop. The end stops are easy but in experiments with "snap" action switches and a trigger cam I noticed that the "snap" point changes when the cam is running forwards or backwards. The difference is only about 1.5mm travel but thats enough to have track out of alignment. I'm therefore adding two triggers for each mid point "stop" location. Traverser positions 2 and 3 will be governed by 4 switches but only two used at a time, depending if its running forwards or backwards....
  7. I added a piece of ply to mount the motor for each traverser. It fitted between the end wall and inner endwalls. Motor gearbox was 20mm diameter. A perfect bracket I found were metal conduit clamps. Lead screw is just an M6 threaded bar. The anchor point on the platform used an M6 barrel nut. This is 10mm diameter so a pair of 10mm pipe clips formed the basis to attach the barrel nut to the sliding platform. Perhaps the only problem I had was connecting the lead screw to the motor gearbox. I tried a rigid coupling but since the mechanics were not perfectly aligned I lost
  8. Well i wanted to run the connecting lead under the traversers but found that they fouled the microswitch assemblies. I therefore put them top side so each one has a connecting umbilical to supply power to the traverser tracks. At the same time I removed the original trial switch assemblies and "upgraded" them. Instead of them being glued in groups they are now bolted so that individual switches can be replaced.
  9. The great gamble in progress... The traverser electrics. Whilst relay switching is nice, until I get a motordrive installed I really wanted the traverser to automatically connect the sliding tracks to the board exit. This is tricky because most people use a double line into a traverser, and I have 3 at the "North" end. Already mentioned, the sliding contacts did not work so I went with microswitches. For the design parameters I had to work out the way it switched. In position one the three input lines can connect to the first three lines on the traverser. Sinc
  10. Currently funds are low until payday. I am working on electronics/electrical for the traverser(s) Tried sliding contacts and that did not work on a prototype. The next method is microswitches with a striker arm. The traverser with 3 entry sections though requires 18 of them (or 9 x DPDT but they are very expensive). The alternative is relay switching controlled via a rotary switch which I need anyway for when I put the motor drive in.
  11. Now the bit I was dreading...cutting the central track joint. I got a new razor saw for the job, but the fear was what might happen if I started sawing and the blade jumped. No g clamps to attach a guide from scrap wood and buying them for one job seemed OTT. Then I remembered I had some cabinet "blocks" in stock and they fit between the rails rather well. With a guide to prevent the saw jumping I managed to cut the track and split the boards
  12. More track laying The track on the traverser is loose - I was just experimenting when I took the picture I had to then wait a few days for a right hand set of points to arrive... I hate waiting
  13. Next up, start laying the track. Unseen in the early pictures is the fact that the I had metal dowels in the central joint to guarantee they would align perfectly everytime. Now I had to use bolts to make sure the boards are tight. Using two pieces of track each with a pair of copper Clad board located either side of the centre I fixed the track in place. I was going to use 4 pieces of track and align the ends together but the model railway gurus all say use a solid piece across the joint and then separate them with a saw (or dremel) afterwards, this way the track at the joint is per
  14. Now that I have a base coat of white all over the wood, I decided to paint it black...because I'm funny like that. OK Aldi had some black paint on offer and I figured out that no matter how well I fill in between the rails one would see the baseboard so it would be better black than white.
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