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  1. F/A-18F Super Hornet (03847) 1:32 Revell The Boeing F/A-18E Super Hornet is the second generation F/A-18 following on the the F/A-18C. The F/A-18E was developed from the original Hornet and while it may look alike its very much a new aircraft which is 25% bigger. The US Navy managed to keep the F/A-18 designation partly to make the US Congress believe it would be a low risk development from the original aircraft (not the first time in US Aviation this has happened). The new aircraft was ordered in 1992 with a first flight in 1995. The aircraft introduced a new era in electronics including an active electronically scanned array (AESA) radar, bigger displays and a helmet mounted sighting system. To date the Super Hornet has replaced the legacy Hornet in all US Navy operations apart from the USN Aerobatic Team The Blue Angels, and even they will have transitioned by 2021. As well as the E model there is the two seat F model, and the latest development the G or "Growler" Electronic Warfare Aircraft. The Kit This is a new tool kit from Revell for 2019, following on from the F/A-18E to which it shares many parts. It arrives in a rather large box which is packed with mainly rather large sprues. The bigger ones being 60 cms across! The first job on the build is to construct the full length intake and exhaust trunking. Fan fronts and exhaust ends are placed in the trunking and its all buttoned up. The underside of this trunking forms the topside of the main wheels wells and they are built up onto the trunking. The lower main fuselage and lower parts of the intakes are then attached, followed by the fuselage sides (which also contain the top of the intakes). The exhaust nozzles can then be placed on the back of the fuselage, a choice between open and closed nozzles is provided. The lower parts of the main wings (left & right) are then attached to the main fuselage. Once these are on the large single part top wing/body part can be attached but only after first putting in the inserts for the topside airbrakes. We can now move onto the cockpit (normally where we start!) The bottom of the cockpit section forms the roof of the front wheel well and the sides for the well are attached first followed by the front bulkhead. The front cockpit & rear tubs can then be placed on the top. To this is added the instrument panels, and the control columns. The rear seat display boxes are also added at this time. The two ejection seats are then built up and added, The seats are a mulitpart affair, however the belts are moulded in, and in this scale the seat would really benefit PE belts. Once the seats are in the front instrument coaming can also be fitted and the cockpit placed into the forward fuselage halves. The nose cone can be fitted and then the forward fuselage joined to the main body. A main top spine part behind the cockpit is then added. The vertical tails with their separate rudders are then made up and added to the main fuselage with a scrap diagram showing the correct angles for these. Once on the arrestor hook parts can be fitted under the main body. We now move to the undercarriage which is quite complex for the Hornet. The front unit and its wheels are built up and fitted to the front bay, the doors and their retraction struts are then fitted. Both sets of main gear get the same treatment. The main gear doors are supplied as one part and must be cut up into their components for the gear down. The outer wings can either be down or folded up as they would be parked. For these the correct hinge assembly needs to be selected. The outer wings can then be built up and added. The main wings are then finished off. While the centre sections are already there the leading edge slats and trailing edge flaps are fitted. The exhaust nozzles are then fitted to the back. Up at the front the glazing is added. For the main canopy the clear parts fit into a normal plastic frame, An integral boarding ladder is provided if wanted in the lowered position. To finish of the tail planes are added along with a few aerials. Revell provide us with a whole host of things to hang under the wings. As well as the pylons a centre line tank, and wing fuel tanks are in the box. Wing tip missile rails are included as well as AIM-9M and AIM-9X missiles for them. AIM-120C missiles are also provided. In term of things which go bang when dropped 2 x GBU-12, 2 x GBU-31-3B, and 2 x GBU-38s are provided. An AN-ASQ-228 ATFLIR sensor pod is also included. Decals The decal sheet from cartograf (so no issues there) provides markings for two aircraft. F/A-18F Bu No.166873 - "Black Knights" VFA-154 - USS Nimitz 2013 F/A-18F A44-201 No.1 Sqn Royal Australian Air Force, RAAF Williamtown 2020 Conclusion This should make up to a good looking if rather large model, highly recommended for those who like to go big! Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  2. I started another one of my Uboat kits that I bought from a local store that acquired it from an estate acquisition. I believe this kit was available around 2003. After opening it up I noticed all the sprue came in one bag. One of the sprue were heavy on the flash. A few of the same parts on the sprue had some pretty visible pits/ voids. The styrene feels a little brittle. Some of the fine edges are chipped. It’s anyone’s guess if a previous owner moved the box or handled the contents over the last 30 years before I happened to purchase this kit on a hobby store shelf. Multiple holes in the propeller.
  3. Anyone who's been down in the Group Build section will have already seen this one (so apologies for any duplication). It's one which has been on sale quite cheaply recently, Revell's 1966 Hertz rent-a-racer Mustang. There's not really a lot going on here, it's just been built straight out of the box. The build thread is here: As I said, this one is built as Revell supply it, apart from some plasticard backing to the numberplates to give them a bit more body. It's not perfect, but perhaps because it's quite simple is one of my better builds. For a kit dating back over 30 years, this one is a good 'un - no real fitment issues and it builds up to a nice model with minimal extra effort. I know this is a bit of a heresey, but I'd almost go so far as to say that it's slightly better than a Tamiya kit of the same vintage, with the only challenges being the front valance (very small attachment points mean it keeps trying to slip until the glue dries) and a few minor issues with the front bumper. If you want a cheap (£16), not too complicated, kit and like the subject this one is well worth getting. It's also my first attempt with bare metal foil - I'm more impressed by the effect of the foil than I am with my execution but there's a few lessons were learned there for next time. Onto the photos, and I'll start with the glamour shot (i.e. probably the best one I managed to get of it). I like the way that this one came out That done, time for a quick tour around the car. It's was easier to see (and photograph) the engine before I fitted the bonnet in place, so this is probably the best pic I have of that: Meanwhile, the interior turned out to be easier to get a decent shot of than most of the models I've built for some reason. Unfortunately, it also turned out that for this picture I was shooting in full-on Dustarama (c) ! And finally, a shot to show how I've improved. I wanted to do this car for the Mustang challenge as my first car on returning to the hobby was the 2006 Hertz Mustang, so this means I have the pair now. It also gives me an excuse to put the two of them together. As ever, thanks for looking.
  4. On display in the Revell stand at the Nurnberg Toy Fair 2020. Revell is to release a new tool 1/48th Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird kit in 2021 (or later as Revell is not famous for the respect of such deadlines). Source: http://www.greenmats.club/forums/topic/6758-revell-1-sr-71-засветился-в-нюрнберге/ Source: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2805402012855804&set=pb.100001580974587.-2207520000..&type=3&theater V.P.
  5. Those who have followed my recent builds will know of my affinity with the 747. Whilst my current 747-436 tribute build is stalled (I'm still waiting for replacement decals), I thought I would turn my attention to some more modern 747 kits. Hopefully they will be far less hassle and go together much more easily than the venerable Revell 747-400! The only modern version of the 747 is the -800 variant. Both Revell and Zvezda have 1/144 versions of this aircraft, but which is best? There's only one way to find out - build them both! To start, here are the two boxes: First impressions - the packaging on the Revell box is superior, as are the decals. The quality of the sprues looks pretty comparable - time will tell as the build progresses... More on that later! Regarding the schemes, I am going to venture into the world of custom decals and build these two as 'what ifs'. Both models will be finished in a 'Utopia' or 'World Image' livery, used by British Airways at the turn of the century and then dropped in favour of the current 'Union Flag' scheme. It was a bit marmite(!), but I quite liked it and thought it would be an interesting side project to design something completely different and previously unseen on a 747. One model will be finished in the 'Youm al-Suq' design, representing Saudi Arabia. This scheme was only ever used on two aircraft - an Embraer 145 (G-EMBJ) and a 737 (G-GBTA). Images of these two aircraft can be seen on the artist's website: https://www.shadiaalem.com/british-airways-utopia-project I purchased some decals designed for the 737 and set to work on photoshop, amending the design to fit a 747. Here's the original decal: Then after many, many hours of work, I created something 747 sized: The other airframe will receive a variation of the 'Colum' livery used on my tribute build. This design was quite well received and there were several different versions of this design in use. I am basing my decal on G-BGDR, a 737-236. I bought these decals earlier in the week and have a few hours of work ahead of me... Here's how they look, compared with the 747: Obviously they need enlarging and I will have to make a few modifications and additions along the way! I hope to turn my attention to these two models soon - I need a break from the endless round of filling/sanding/priming which seems to be happening with all my other projects at the moment! Just gluing plastic together will make a pleasant change...
  6. My dad once again, asked me if I could share his work here, and I'm doing that with all my pleasure. This time, and after so many models he did in the military version, he turned for a bit into civil aviation again. Don't ask me how he find it or where I have no clue at all, but one day my dad came home with a DC-3 from Revell in his hands. This kit from 2004, brings two options: the paint scheme of KLM or the paint scheme of Swissair. After some time considering, we've decoded to pick up the Swissair livery. Despite in the end I was more for the KLM one. Well we can save the decals for a later version who knows By what we could check from the box art and also by pictures online this was the paint we needed to recreated in our Dakota. So basically in the beginning. my dad attached the main fuselage and started to sand. After this job was completed he then puttied it and again it sanded. For what he told me this kit didn't had much gaps, so the job was kinda easy. After that he redesigned the fuselage lines and by now this is how the model looks like: Next, my dad inserted the engine nacelles and also the covers, and by him, this was a bit challenging because the pieces didn't fit with each other so he had to use a bit of force and compression for them to remain in their position. After that he put the primer to check some imperfections. I need to confess that I'm actually a bit surprised with this kit from Revell, as because it seems very accurate for me when it comes to shapes and also angles! And with this silver layer, the kit started to gain some Dakota style Here is the guy! And if I am not mistaken with the permeant silver layer. After that my dad started to paint the wings and also the elevators leading edges in black juts like we saw on the pictures. Since my dad doesn't like the "typical travel agency plane" as he normally says, the decided to pop up the lines of the aircraft a bit and dirty them a bit. For that he used the typical black panner line ink. He tool this picture during the first layer on the right wing and since I'm not with him this is the only picture I have for you about this After that the main things were done: Black nose, and the remaining black stripes on the wings, elevators and tail. Looks like in a gap of 1 week this airplane is practically done! By the pictures, the propellers were all black with yellow stripes and he also made them already! When it comes to the landing gear and wheels I don't know how's the status, but looks like it can be a subject for continue this trend. For one post there's too much pictures! See you around!
  7. A pair of Revell 1/144 F-14A arrived yesterday, so the plan is to build them in flight as a wingman pair. The bags of bits
  8. The result to the poll I put up as to the next RAF kit I build was for Tornado (50%) over the F35b Lightning (25%), Hawk T1A (15%) and Typhoon F1 (10%). This will be an OOB build, inflight with the crew coming from Revell crew figures set and the Sidewinders replaced with some spare Airfix ones. The kit looks pretty well detailed but has some flash in places. I will be modelling ZD748 using the kit decals, hopefully get one of the Coastal Kits blurred bases to simulate a low level flight. Decals look pretty good not to thick. Started on the cockpit so I could see if the crew would fit without major surgery and the back seater looks fine, even still has his feet. Looks like the pilot will become a double amputee to fit under the instrument panel though.
  9. As mentioned in the chat thread I'll be hitting the strip with a Fox body Mustang drag racer. DSCF2329 by timothy jones, on Flickr Pics of the box contents tomorrow. There are a lot of small sprues.
  10. Hi everyone, This build has been a long, long, time coming but what better time to start it than after a first COVID vaccination! To cut a long story short, over the years I've often seen the helicopters of the Midlands Air Ambulance charity flying over- whether it's coming into the QE Hospital in Birmingham, flying over our home now and again, returning to Cosford, or even while out and about. They do remarkable work and it's only right that I have a go at modelling such a fantastic machine. My previous foray into a 1:72 G-OMAA can be found here, but this time I will have to make my own decals and have a much better go at the interior. Here's the base kit: Colour scheme-wise, there are a few variations when it comes to decals. Although the 2 photos (from Cosford 2019) shown below would be good to use, I also have other reference material with the "Babcock" logo replaced by the "Bond" logo- it's a minor point, but I think the white lettering makes for a slightly more aesthetically interesting model. As you can see from the above, there are a lot of decals to try and replicate. Let's get cracking! All the best, Sam
  11. A-Wing StarFighter (01210) 1:72 Carrera Revell/Bandai The A-Wing was a minor character in the original (and best) Star Wars trilogy, appearing in the background in some of the large space battles. It has since gained a little more prominence in the new films and the cartoon spin-offs, which are numerous. It’s a small one-seater twin-engined ship manufactured (in a galaxy far far away) by Kuat Systems Engineering, and somehow finds its way into Rebel hands. Its speed and pivoting main cannons make it a useful tool that is suited for rapid interdiction and lightning strikes. The Kit This is a licensed reboxing by Revell of the excellent Bandai kit that was released in 2016, which was available only by personal import or from a grey-import box-shifter until now. This is the most minimalistic reboxing from Revell, with a sticker placed over a portion of the box showing Revell’s logo and their product code along with a few European-style descriptions of what it is – a self-assembly model kit. If you’re a Star Wars model builder, you probably know what to expect inside, and I’m one myself so I’ve already got one of the Bandai kits in my stash. Bandai have an incredible team of engineers creating their kits, who achieve amazing detail, simplicity and cleverness of construction, and skill of tooling the most stunning injection moulded kits around. They regularly inject several colours and types of styrene into one sprue with their kits that Western companies could only aspire to, which cuts down the sprue-count and makes for a less messy desk during the build. They’re also snap-together kits in essence, with pre-coloured parts that don’t require painting if you’re either a beginner, a child without the facilities or just don’t want to get the paint out. If you aren’t familiar with Bandai’s style of snap-together kits, you probably think that this renders them simplistic and toy-like. Get that mindset right out of your mind right now, as these kits couldn’t be further from that type of product. The box is pure Bandai with a black glossy surface to the top-opening box, with five sprues in cream; dull red, cream, black and clear; grey; black and finally clear red. Because the A-Wing is a compact fighter, you get the ship itself, plus a base with a Turbo-Laser Turret on a section to one side, which gives that frissant of Death Star to accompany your model. The decals are duplicated as stickers for the younger or less skilled builder, and the package is rounded off by the inclusion of a concertina-fold instruction booklet in colour. Originally, the instruction booklets were written almost completely in Japanese, but as time went on they have included more English, which is helpful to augment the visual instructions and icons that appear throughout the booklet. Construction begins with the A-Wing, which first has its cockpit made up from six highly detailed parts plus a decal or sticker (whenever I say decal, also think sticker from hereon in). The lower hull is next, adding inserts into the weapons mounts and their rear, after which the hull topside is clipped into place, with the cockpit dropped in from above. The red section of the topside is separate due to the self-coloured parts, with a separate spin behind the cockpit and the tapered apron toward the front. The spine has a three-part cream insert at the rear, then it clicks in place along with the apron into the upper hull around the cockpit tub, locking it in place. A similar red insert is fitted to the underside, and clear side panels smooth out the joint between top and bottom halves. The nose cone is red, as are two panels in the underside wings, and another red insert fits behind the tapered section under the hull. Flipping the hull over, a roll-over hoop is added to the rear of the cockpit, and a pilot figure with two small decals is popped into the seat before the clear canopy and a snap-on curved frame part. The engine nacelles project from the rear of the arrow-head hull, and have fins at an angle top and bottom of the exhausts. These have clear engine inserts with stoppers behind them for painting a fiery colour or lighting, and a two-part trunk is clipped to each side of the fins with a tiny part with two angled pipes/hoses coming out of the sides. At the rear are a pair of oval fairings with four more exhaust cups inside, the shape of which is akin to a pair of F-16 intakes, which given their kit-bashed heritage they very well could be just that. Having a second look, I seriously think they are! The twin ovals are attached to an insert with the four exhausts and are fitted together with the main engines and their fins, then are offered up to the rear of the hull to be clipped into place. The pivoting guns at the wingtips are each made up from three parts with hollow muzzles, then the three gear bay doors are clipped into place if you are depicting your A-Wing in flight on the stand, or in the open position with three two-part gear legs if you are putting it on the ground. There are plenty of diagrams to show you where the various parts should fit, so don’t concern yourself about making a mistake. That’s the A-Wing finished and now it’s time for the base and turret extension. The base has a greebly-filled surface to its single part, with an angular diagonal riser that has a jointed tip to allow the modeller to adjust the pose of their model at any time. The bases are able to be linked together by the included clips, which leads us nicely to the bonus Turbo-Laser turret that can clip onto the base, as its footprint is the exact same size as the base itself, and it also has the cut-outs for the clips. The tapering base is a single part, which is extended upward by another dual taper section that is made from four parts inserted into its flat top, and is joined by the turret at the top, which is three parts and builds up around the gun assembly. This begins with two hollow-tipped barrels that have toothed quadrants fitted on their outer edges and in between them, after which the barrels are raised to the vertical and bracketed by a two-part assembly that holds them in situ. The barrels are then returned to the horizontal and surrounded at the sides and on top by the turret shell. The turret clips into place on the top of the base, and can be rotated and elevated as you see fit – just so long as you enjoy playing with it Oh, and no, I couldn’t resist building the turret. Markings The kit is self-coloured, so technically you don’t need to paint a thing, but the back page of the instructions give you a six-view look at the model as per the box art, with colour and decal/sticker call-outs along the way. The pilot figure is also shown painted with the two tiny decals on the helmet, and there is some weathering that has been applied around the cockpit and the rest of the hull to give you an idea of what to aim for. There’s a lot of pictorial evidence out there for any other markings and schemes that you might wish to portray though, and we often see some adventurous schemes here on Britmodeller.com. Conclusion It was a gorgeous kit in 2016 when it came out, and it’s just as good now. If you’re a Star Wars modeller and want a well-detailed model of an A-Wing, this is the kit to get. Very highly recommended. Currently, Revell are unable to ship to the UK from their online shop due to recent changes in import regulations, but there are many shops stocking their products where you can pick up the kits either in the flesh or online. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  12. Good afternoon fellow Britmodellers. Here is (finally) my latest build, the most elegant airliner of all times IMHO, Revell's 1/144 Lockheed L.1049G Super Constellation. Done OOB in TWA markings. The name of the plane is missing as I ruined the decals, which are very nice and very good BTW (walkways and striping set in one piece). I decided on the TWA markings because they apply to the "long nose" version I prefer. I put the plane on a stand, gear up, to emphasize it's sleek silhouette. It was a time of firsts, as it was build for my first participation in a GB (Unarmed GB), first airliner ever and first 1/144 kit. Alas, I didn't finish it in time for the GB gallery but here it is and I'm very happy with the result (I hoped even better, well it's comforting, as it shows I've got room for self improvement). Again, many thanks to Brad for organizing the Unarmed GB . Also, my thanks to all those who showed support, help and appreciation during the build. It can be found here: The kit is very nice and simple OOB (neatly engraved panel lines and as much detail as the 1/72 Heller) but requires some care to achieve the best of results. I hope my build thread will help others to avoid some possible issues (looking around the Net, I found some saying it was trouble free, others that it was a beast). With some patience meaning careful dry-fitting, a bit of scraping and sanding you will need nearly no filler. The only part that was a problem with the kit itself is the windscreen. It's too narrow. Looking back at it, I think placing a piece of plasticard 0.3 to 0.5 mm thick behind it should help and spare some sanding and filling. Also don't be too sparse with glue and clamping assemling the fuselage halves (the upper seam "cracked" more than once). I don't have any reference so I may be wrong but looking at pictures I think the wings should have more dihedral...that's for the next one, if Revell would reissue it. Sprayed with my H&S Evolution Silverline. Paints were all acrylics: - Tamiya: flat white for the upper fuselage - Vallejo Metal Color Silver for the belly and wings, some details painted steel, semi-matte and dull aluminium (prop blades, antennas) - exhaust stains done with Tamiya smoke - Revell Aqua flat black for the leading edges de-icers. Everything was then coated with Tamiya gloss clear Hope you'll enjoy taking a look. Thanks for watching. Now the pics: The stand comes from an Italeri boxing of two different ones.
  13. Hello Everyone This is Revell’s excellent 1/48 Me-163 B-1a Komet. The only modifications were the homemade seat straps and I decided to cut the flaps out and display them lowered. It’s been painted with the decals on for some years and then just left in the loft for me to finish the wheels, canopy and aerials etc. Not sure what happened, but the decals seem to have discolored somewhat. Anyhow it’s finished rather than just ending up in the bin, not my best work but I still like it. Thanks for looking. Regards Trace
  14. Fresh off the bench Revell 1:72 “new” (2018) Catalina PBY-5A of patrol squadron 61 US Navy Umnak Island Alaska 1943. The kit although called new on the box is a 1993 academy mini craft kit. It looks pretty decent though with good external detail, the cockpit is terrible fortunately the cockpit windows are so small you can’t really see anything inside so not a big deal. If anybody has this in the stash two points of warning. 1- I took up every bit of space in the nose with lead for the required counterweight in odd small sizes due to hill shape and then had to disguise it from view through the nose turret. 2- The wing lift struts could do with being 1-2mm longer. I had to weight and stress rig the wing to get it to meet and glue even then one side popped and needed an insert piece. Hopefully this helps anybody with the build coming up. Now the pics.
  15. Guess I'd better declare mine here - seems that there's quite a few of these about so I'll leave out the box contents, but just to be clear this is the kit in question. Because I tend to build at a pace similar to a snail on spice this will be done straight out of the box. And as my first car build on returning to the hobby was the 2006 version, I absolutely have to build it in black with gold stripes to resemble it's cousin from four years ago (looking at the picture now I realise how much neater my more recent builds are under the camera!): But first, a small confession. Although I haven't started building anything yet, I have got some paint on the body as I tend to leave a couple of weeks between coats and could see that holding me up. It's just had the colour coat (pics at some stage over the weekend) so still decalling and clear coats to go. Hope that is ok as there is well under 25% of work done to date, but it's not a completely fresh build from 10th July.
  16. Sitting here now my fingers crossed the missing parts should arrive, I thought It'd be good to start a build thread for my originally planned subject in this group build. We had an "in the year I was born" group build here two years ago, fabulously hosted by Rabbit Leader. I started, but didn't finish, a Roundtwo/ AMT 1968 Camaro. This will be my round two for the year I was born GB subject. Since I first saw the '68 Mustang Cobra Jet boxing, I knew I'd have to build the Tasca Ford super stock version of it. There's just "that something" in the vintage factory backed racing programs. Oh, it seems I have less time to write this now than I thought, so here are just some pics now and more to come later. Box pic recycled from previous posts Sprue pic #1 Sprue pic #2 Sprue pic #3 to be added here, when I get them! The decal sheet, with lots of to-be-unnecessary striping! https://www.scalemates.com/kits/revell-85-4215-68-mustang-gt-2n1--111671 Here's a link to the instructions and the kit's lineage. It does contain all the parts for the Bullitt movie car - except mine doesn't of course, yet... V-P
  17. Italy, May 1944. The Gustav Line is finally broken at Cassino. During the pursuit of retreating German forces a Humber armoured car crew from 46th Reconnaissance Regiment find the road blocked once again. The officer dismounts to check his map for an alternative route. His wireless operator looks down nervously, worried about mines and snipers... This is of course Matchbox's venerable Humber Mk II, now available from Revell. A big problem with the kit in its current form are the decals. These give you a vehicle from 4th Recce Regt captured by the Germans (which should actually be a Mk IV) and one from an 'unknown' armoured car regiment in 'Lybia', which seems to have been based on a photo of a UK vehicle, possibly from the Royal Canadian Dragoons! It would have been nice to have had some accurate North African markings, as in the original kit. In their absence, and because the base doesn't look that desert-like to me, I opted for an Italian scene and painted it Light Mud with blue-black disruptive camo. I didn't have any suitable decals so the story will have to be that this is a newish or repainted vehicle and they didn't have time to add them. Lastly, I've always felt that the figure supplied by Matchbox was rather over-scale, so I added a couple of Milicast resin figures which I think better convey the size of the vehicle. All in all, a fun build as ever and one which only took about a week to do. Best wishes, Ian
  18. Yeah, you're not about to have another Nordic groupbuild without me barging in on it. The way things are looking at the moment this may not even be my entry for it, but rather my first entry. Anyway, some time back I noticed the ModellTrans Modellbau/Silesian Models sold a 1/72 conversion kit for Revell's T-55 to turn it into a Finnish ItPsv 90 SPAAG, aka T-55 Marksman. As the less formal name implies the real world vehicles were themselves conversions created by the Finns buying a few second hand T-55AM from the Poles and slapping on Marksman AAA turrets. That seemed like an amusing enough subject and so here we are, even though my previous experience with Silesian models (turning an Academy Stryker into an M1128 MGS) had been a somewhat mixed bag. The "Before" picture. With their usual generosity Silesian models have included not only the resin parts in the kits, but also a few bits of the moulds they were cast in. On the other hand you get no decals. I thought I'd source those form Revell's 1/72 T-72 since that shouldn't cost all that much more than a third party decal sheet and maybe I'd feel like building an Iraqi tank some day. Looking around though that one's apparently been OOP for some time judging by its non-existence in stock just about everywhere. Turning to eBay I was then lucky enough to spot someone selling just the decal sheet, minus the Iraqi part, for a good deal less than the entire kit, so that turned out pretty close to ideal. A British seller, so if any of you sold such a sheet a while back and the phrase "Your Local Hypnotherapist" rings a bell then you're about to find out what fate you consigned that sheet to when you sent it over the top. Now luckily the more visible sides of the resin parts are in a much better shape than the underside of the turret, but still, there's been a number of blobs and whatnot to slice off. Having hopefully cleaned up the main turret chunk itself I decided to do something else for a while, like make a place to put it as it starts accumulating fragile bits. Likely unsurprisingly this means heading over to the Revell side of things, where it all starts out unremarkable enough on the whole. We do run into the first conversion job though, slicing off the extra fuel drums. Wheels on, the rest dry fitted. Quite a bit of tower on this one. I also glued together the T-55 turret just because. I guess it'll be handy if I want a small paint mule some day.
  19. As the title says I'll be building a Revell Phantom FGR2 kit; to be finished as a camouflaged aircraft from 23 Squadron - precise identity yet to be chosen. To contrast with my ADV grey builds this one will have the original tail (ie no RWR fairing nor ILS fins). The basic components: Hopefully will get a start on her next week but have three F-16s to put finishing touches to first. Mike
  20. With Ragnar just around the corner, and F-4 STGB underway I'd best get moving on this and see if I can get it shuffled along in reasonable time. This will be a no frills build, pretty much out of the box to get it cleared out of the stash with just a couple scratch adjustments. Kit decals for E.C. 2/11 out of Toul AB will be used.
  21. Hi comrades! My next build is ancient Su-7 kit in Revell box. The Shmer's kit is the best available in the last 40 years). I'll add some aftermarket parts. The prototype I chose from the Harpia's excellent reference book. So, let's start)) Thanks for looking
  22. Hello Here is my second contribution for this group build with a 1/72 Revell NH-90 Caïman for the Marine Nationale. This is the most recent helicopter which entered naval service and according to Wikipedia her missions are : naval combat missions: anti-surface, anti-submarine warfare, heavy-handed actions at sea (including maritime counter-terrorism) support missions: rescue at sea, assistance to vessels in distress, medical evacuation, naval logistics, transport of commandos. They are in front line service whithin 31F and 33F squadrons and operate from Frigates, PAN Charles de Gaulle and Mistral class vessels. Firts here is the box of this kit produced in 2011 and the Reskit add-on First pictures in progress should comme fast. To be continued... Patrick
  23. Search & Rescue Vessel Hermann Marwede Platinum Edition (05198) Revell 1:72 - Limited Edition The Hermann Marwede is the largest rescue vessel operated by the German Society For Sea Rescue or Die Deutsche Gesellschaft zur Rettung Schiffbrüchiger (DGzRS) to give them their correct German title. Like many such organisations of its type the DGzRS receive no government funding but rely on voluntary contributions to finance the organisation. The DGzRS was founded in 1865 by uniting many smaller organisations, and now celebrates its 150th Anniversary. It is interesting to note that during WWII they operated under the Red Cross and upheld their principles of rescuing anyone in distress. They have know grown into an organisation with 60 lifesaving vessels in 54 stations on the German Coastline. It is estimated over 82000 people have been saved by the organisation since its founding. Please visit the DGzRS website if you wish to read more about the organisation. The vessel was built by Fassmer in Berne and launched in 2003. She is 46m Long with a beam of 10.66m, a top speed of 25 Knots; with power being provided by three 9250 Shaft hp diesel engines each driving it's own shaft. The unrefuelled range is nearly 4000 Kms. The vessel features a fully equipped hospital unit, helicopter landing pad, fire-fighting water canons, and a stern launched rescue boat. The Hermann Marwede is stationed on the island of Helgoland. The vessel is named after Hermann Marwede a co-founder of the Becks Brewery (very apt for sailors), he was a past president of the DGzRS. Construction of the vessel was in the main funded by donations from the Marwede family. The Kit The first thing you notice about the kit is the sheer size of the box. It has to be this big to contain all of the plastic! Filling one side is a single piece hull, a further 8 sprues of white plastic, and one clear sprue. Construction starts inside the main hull with the fitting of the two bow thruster units. These each have their individual propellers fitted before the units are mounted to the hull. Then on the outside of the hull the three shafts, their propellers and individual rudders are fitted. The bow anchor is also fitted at this time. Once the outside of the main hull is finished it can be mounted on the supplied stands to aid the rest of the construction. The forward hull sides along with the forward railings are then fitted. Life-rafts are fitted to the rear bulkhead of the main deck. The main deck forward and aft is added into the hull at this stage, along with the stern bulkhead of the vessel. The instructions have the modeller adding the hull fenders at this stage. Though as these are a different colour to the main hull they are perhaps best left until last? Once the decks are in place construction moves to the aft main deck, and in particular the launching ramp for the fast rescue craft with work being done in this area to construct where the rescue craft will sit. The main deck railings are the next to be added, with smaller sections on the stern of the vessel. Once the railings are fitted a whole host of deck fittings need to be added on. Winches, bollards, deck hatches, life rafts, and an anchor windlass are all to be fitted. Next on the construction agenda is the upper deck house. This is assembled along with the ladders and railings which lead down to the main deck. A main towing winch is assembled and added behind the main deck superstructure. More railings and deck fittings are added at the deck house level. Next the pilot house / bridge deck level is added. Even though there is glazing all around this there is no interior at all provided. In this scale I would suggest this something Revell missed. Once this section is complete the deck mounted crane can be assembled. The next major area for construction (and the last) is the deck house / helicopter landing pad which is built over the fast rescue boat launching area. The plastic does a good job of simulating the steel texture of this area, though some sort of photo-etch would have been much better. The area also has its railings and ladders added at this time. Moving back to the main structure three fire-fighting cannons are assembled and installed behind the bridge. Three search light units are assembled and added to the forward top of the bridge. Then a whole host of aerials, antenna, and other items are added to the bridge roof. The last item to be added in this area is the mast arrangement. This also carries a wide range of radar antenna, navigation lights, and other aerials which all need to be added. The completed mast can then be installed onto the vessel. The last items for construction is the fast rescue craft, and the stern door which opens to allow it to be launched. In this scale the fast rescue boat is a kit in its own right. The main hull is split into upper and lower sections. Once these are together the deck house is built up on top of the boat. A full interior control section is supplied as this can be seen from the partially open rear area and rear mesh screen. Again the plastic here gives a good impression in this scale but a touch of PE would go a long way. Once the launch is completed it can be mounted in the vessel or used separately in a diorama setting. Decals The decal sheet is fairly small considering the size of the kit. The decals in this boxing are printed in Italy so there should be no Issues. The Platinum Parts This is what this boxing is all about. I know Eduard had made some PE sets for this kit and that's what I was expecting in the box; however it would appear these are new seta from Revell. There are two large Nickel frets, a large brass fret, and a smaller Nickel fret of PE parts. As well as this there are a whole host of brass parts as well. These are all accompanied by a set of colour CAD instructions for their construction and placement. As good as these instructions are they layout is not flowing and some parts on the frets I fail to find on the instructions? The PE parts are mainly for the Doors, Window frames, ladders, bulwark details, structure details, bridge protection bulwark, masts, hatches capstans, aerial frames, fire fighting monitors, and life rafts. There are some parts marked not for use on the PE set 1, these look to be errors only noticed later and corrected on the 4th small fret. No details for the railings or more surprisingly the heli deck, or small rescue boat are in the set. Perhaps they are relying on the modeller finding the Eduard sets for these? As well as the PE sets Revell offer 37 brass parts with the kit. These include 16 mast lamps, 4 antennas, 3 mast poles, 2 capstans, and 1 each of a horn, light, hook, staff, rigging pole, and fire pipe. All of these brass items look to be first class. Some of these will combine with the PE items for the masts to make them stand out. Conclusion Even though the kit is oldish now this is only its third release so the molds are as good as ever. The inclusion of the PE and Brass bring this more into line with what serious modellers are expecting these days, however it does feel like some areas have been ignored with these sets. Recommended if you want a kit of this vessel with the additional PE and brass parts. Currently, Revell are unable to ship to the UK from their online shop due to recent changes in import regulations, but there are many shops stocking their products where you can pick up the kits either in the flesh or online. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  24. Hi All, My first new model of 2021. I have had this one for a very long time and it's been daring me to start it for a long time. I think that this is the original boxing from the late nineties (I think) I have been hesitating to start this because I wanted to modify the wheels the same way a I did with the BMW Alpina B26 that I completed some time back. The thought of fabricating all the plastic rings to simulate the disks and trying to create convincing callipers was putting me off. However, I was left with a number of spare bits from the completion of the GTR Nismo. These parts included the disk brakes for the 'normal' GTR. I decided that I would be able to adapt those brakes for this project. More on that later. So, here is the obligatory box picture: I started by temporarily assembling one wheel, using PVA glue so that I could use that as my 'template' for fitting the modified wheels. The wheel on the left is as Revell would have you build it. The one on the right has been modded by cutting out the disc by drilling a set of small holes around the periphery of the disc and finishing it off with a Stanley knife. Once the rim was smoothed off, but with a bit of rim left, I cemented the two halves together. I assembled one front disc and one back disc from the kit and cleaned up the Tamiya discs, as can be seen in the picture above. I then used a tool in my Dremel to smooth the interior of the wheel thus: Not the best finish, but wont be visible when on the car. In order to get the wheel offsets correct, I had to cement in a 30 thou disc of styrene to the inside of the wheel. Finally for each wheel, I drilled out the centre of the wheel and cemented in a plastic pin, as the Tamiya brakes trap a poly-cap, I inserted a measured length of styrene rod and cemented it in place. The rod was a bit small in diameter (1/16th inch), so I wrapped some 5 thou styrene sheet around the rod melting it on to the rod with very thin cement until the diameter was sufficient for a snug fit in the poly-cap. I left the wheels to set completely so that the pin had a strong bond to the wheel. I had to modify the Tamiya discs to fit the Revell Axles. This required me to create a small disc with a square hole in the centre. This was 'fettled' until the disc fitted the stub on the axle. This disc was then cemented to the back of the Tamiya disc, thus; These square hols were aligned so that the callipers would align correctly when fitted to the axles. Here are the brakes, axles and suspension having been modified to use the Tamiya brakes: Just to the right and above the fourth wheel is the old solid disc that I cut out from one of the wheels. Here are some more parts prepared, ready for priming: I primed all the parts with Zero Paints light grey primer, which took a while to do: Once the primer was cured, I sprayed all the parts that I was going to paint aluminium or black with Zero Paints Semi-gloss black, this; My plan is to paint the seats a satin black to simulate leather, so I painted them in the ZP semi-gloss black. I wasn't happy with the finish on the seats, as it was too glossy for me, so I stripped them again for re-priming. I then cleaned up the body parts and primed them: I re-primed the seats, ready for a satin black finish. I also primed the floor pan: That's all for now. Thanks for looking in. Any comments are welcome. Cheers, Alan.
  25. Airbus A320neo British Airways 1:144 Revell (03840) The A320 neo is the most recent development of the highly successful Airbus range of narrow bodied airliners. Available as the A319, A320, and A321,'neo' stands foe new engine option' as the aircraft can be fitted with the very fuel efficient Pratt & Whitney PW1000G or the CFM International LEAP (Leading Edge Aviation Propulsion) engines. The other noticeable change is the wingtip 'sharklets', similar in appearance to those used on Boeing aircraft, which replace the smaller winglets previously used. With 95% commonality with the earlier A319-A321 range (now known as the 'eco' engine current option), it is an obvious choice for airlines operating the older machine. Entering service in 2016, the A319-321 neo family has become the worlds fastest selling airliner, although production delays with engines initially slowed down deliveries. They will be seen at airports all around the world for many years to come, probably in a vast number of different liveries. The Kit. This is the second release of Revell's all new tooling, which has no commonality with it previous range of the A320 family. Packed in one of Revell's end opening boxes, and moulded in their standard white plastic, everything is crisply defined and flash free with no sign of sink marks or other flaws. The fuselage has a large cut out where a clear cockpit glazing section is fitted. This far better then the old kit which had a 'letterbox' slot into which the clear part had to be inserted, not an easy job. Cabin windows are moulded open, with clear plastic window strips to fitted from the inside. All the blade aerials are moulded along one fuselage half, but personally I cut these off for later re-attachment as they make cleaning up the fuselage seam very awkward. Rather than alignment holes and pins, Revell have gone for interlocking tabs along the fuselage halves. A neat little cockpit is provided, complete with separate instrument panel. I often scratch build my own airliner cockpit interiors, so here is one job saved. The wings are very nicely moulded with inbuilt dihedral and broad, thin sprue attachment point which make removal from the sprue much easier. On the old A320 kit you had to remove a number of flap track fairings and fill panel lines, as the kit shared the same wing mouldings as Revell's A321. No such problem here, this is a dedicated A320 wing ready to use 'as is'. The wingtip Sharklets are on their own sprue along with the nose cap. The previous release of this kit in Lufthansa colours came without any undercarriage, and could only be built 'in flight' using a stand provided. This was done by Revell to put the kit into a lower 'skill level' rating, but disappointed many of us more serious builders. Happily, the full undercarriage is now included in this 'British Airways' release, along with a range of three different satellite/Wi-Fi fairings. None of these Wi-Fi fairings are needed for this version but it is nice to have them anyway. Another big plus is that two complete sets of engines are included, the Pratt & Whitney PW1000G and the CFM LEAP. BA only use the LEAP, so there are a pair of the PW100G's to go in your spares box! Looking at and comparing them, the differences seem very minor so full marks to Revell for tooling them separately. The fine detail is superb, particularly on the fan blades, which are the major noticeable difference between the two engine types. The intake rings are separate parts, which makes painting them silver much easier. (Tip - attach them after the nacelles are painted, using white glue so as not to risk messing up your nice finish). Options. Only one livery is supplied, the current British Airways scheme. The decal sheet has been designed by DACO, and really is excellent, covering all sorts of fine stencil detail and giving a choice of four different aircraft. Printing is faultless with minimal carrier film and in perfect registration. Were this to be an aftermarket sheet it would probably cost half as much as the complete kit. Conclusion. This is the A320neo kit we have been waiting for Revell to release. Finally it comes with full undercarriage, and the provision of both engine types is a huge bonus for those of us who like to build several variants using aftermarket decals. It looks superb in the box, and should build up fairly easily. I'll build my first one straight from the box as that decal sheet is simply outstanding, and I really like the BA scheme. I'll probably get a few more to put in the stash, awaiting further aftermarket decal sheets. The provision of the three different Wi-Fi fairings and both engine types makes this a no-brainer, as you'll be able to build any airlines A320neo without having to also resort to aftermarket engines. This is how to produce an airliner kit Revell, I'm impressed, keep 'em coming! Highly recommended. Currently, Revell are unable to ship to the UK from their online shop due to recent changes in import regulations, but there are many shops stocking their products where you can pick up the kits either in the flesh or online. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
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