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  1. XX970 was delivered to the RAF in January 1976 and served much of its time with 6 squadron at the home of the Jaguar, Coltishall in Norfolk. It served in the Gulf War, receiving a temporary sand colour before reverting back to green and grey, then being converted to GR3 standard in the mid 1990s. This Jaguar is still complete and currently used for technical training at RAF Cosford. This is the 1/48 Airfix kit, and needed a bit of scratch building to display with the flaps and slats down. I used the Eduard etch set and Air Master probe, plus a mix of Xtradecals and Kits World decals for the markings, serial and tail code. All comments and suggestions welcome! Here is the WIP:
  2. I've had a couple of false starts with models I wanted to build, I hope this project will yield a couple of decent vehicles. I've had a couple of Revell Jaguar XK120s in my cupboard for a while, I bought two because I wanted to try building this kit two different ways. The vision: One car built as factory standard. This is based on a car I saw in an old magazine; light blue with a navy and grey interior, with rear-wheel spats. One car built as a bit of a tuned-up, example with a set of Dunlop alloys and no spats. This one will be Tamiya British Green with a tan interior. Here's a mock-up, the wheels and tyres came from K&R Replicas. It might take a bit of ingenuity to fix them to the axles. You can also see that the body needs a lot of cleaning up, those mould lines are just about the worst possible place. On the early XK the ventilation flaps in the front wings need filling in, as these were never fitted as standard (although I think some owners added them later). For the tuned up XK I want to replicate the look of a later car, where the sidelights were integrated with the front wings, rather than being separate, chrome parts. This is a nicely detailed kit, but the copyright information moulded into some parts shows that it is a Monogram moulding and it feels like it might be almost as challenging as the old Monogram Maserati 3500 kit I built last year.
  3. Hi all, these are the final pictures of the E-Type, I spent quite a bit of time on this little kit, mainly trying to upgrade some of the parts such as the drivers rear view mirror mounting post. I also scratch built a new door mirror as I did not like the bullet style ones provided in the kit. The front headlamp frames were made from silver solder, bent into shape and flattened with a tea spoon. I did manage to throw away the tiny door handles when having a tidy up, I found one of them, so I had to make a copy in solder and PVA glue. I found a way to pivot the bonnet by pushing heated metal pins into the front chassis cross bar and sliding on some plastic bushes. These were glued to the lower portion of the bonnet and a wire restraint was super glued to the chassis to limit the travel so that the chrome bumpers did not touch the ground. The US cars had clear indicator front lenses and all red tail lights, I liked the look of that, so found an Illinois rear plate in my spares box and added that. I gave the car a wash with AK dirt/dust enamels to give it a used cross country dusty drive look. Overall, for a kit dating back to the early 60's I was impressed with the quality of the fit and shape. I look forward to building Revell's latest release and hope you all enjoy the photos. The outside ones were taken in biting -8 degree winds and after 5 minutes my fingers were numb! Paints used: Zero Paints - Jaguar Cotswold Blue Mr Surfacer 1200/1500 black primer 2K Clear coat Mr Color super metallics Abteilung oils/matt thinner UV Resin
  4. Hi everyone, having seen that Revell have launched the new tooled E-type, I thought I would give this re boxing a go. It's been in my stash for 5 years or so, the instructions are dated 2011, but the moulding dates back to 1963! I was born in 1962 and my dad was in the car trade in those days and owned a few MK 10's. He had a red hard top E-Type in the 70's which I got to ride in. I still remember the aircraft style cockpit and switches and dials that looked amazing and the push back into the seat as he floored the accelerator pedal.
  5. I've been working away bit by bit on this since I finished the Chinook, but I thought that the time had come to start a WIP and get y'all caught up. So, what are we looking at? It's Kittyhawks GR.1 / GR.3 kit which I think will build up into a pretty good shape. There are some gotchas to be aware of though. The kit is really designed to be made with avionics and gun bay doors open and airbrakes too. It's not my usual style to build like that, but I've heard it's can be a struggle to build this kit with those parts closed. Also when I dry fit the two halves of the fuselage, they touch each other at exactly one point, so making something straight and true out of two curves is going to be "fun". As far as after market goes, I have the resin cockpit from Aires plus their replacement airbrake set. Also the SAC metal undercarriage, the Flight path RAF tanks and pods, some pitot tubes and the Kits World decals. Following on a Recce theme from the GR.1A Tonka, I want to model a Jag in the reconnaissance role, so I'm making XZ358 W of 54 squadron. Pictures coming soon. Chris
  6. Whilst sorting through a few old photos the other day I came across a couple of negatives taken on my dads old Zeiss Nettar camera that is older than I am. They were taken at the RAF Battle of Britain Display at Finningley (now DSA) I know now to be 1975 The photos are cropped off a 6 cm by 6 cm negative. Pretty sure it was an Ilford FP4 film (Roll film with eight exposures) and I developed it myself Lightning F.6 XS925 'J' of 11 Squadron RAF Binbrook Jaguar GR1 coded '20' of 226 OCU Lossiemouth, I have the lost the bit of paper with the serial on (doh!). The Jaguar was the latest thing in 1974, which is why I probably photographed it. The Vulcan in the background is XM597 used in the Black Buck missions and currently preserved at the Scottish Museum of Flight at East Fortune. I hope you like the bit of nostalgia. There should be some more negatives from the same display
  7. Well following my disappointment with the amount of detail of my Hasegawa Jag I bit the bullet and managed to win a Tamiya one on Ebay courtesy of British Red Cross so I might of paid a bit of a premium but hopefully theyll benefit from a few of my pounds. So I hope I can do this beast justice, this is my first Tamiya kit and I must say they are fantastic, dry fitting everything together and it all stays together, I am very impressed. There is a fair few items on order so progress is slow BUT I really want to build this as detailed as I can, the cars hold very fond memories as a kid, i got to meet Martin Brundle a few times through his racing career and have been lucky enough to be photographed sat in a few of his sports cars and F1 cars. As such as I have a couple of die cast Le Mans '88 winners this will be built as Martin Brundles car that failed to finish. I have added all 12 HT leads to the distributor cap, I was going to find the firing order but once the air intake box was added you couldnt see them so their all fixed in numerical order instead. Lots of pipework will be fitted but i need to add most of that to the floor pan so my aim was to get the engine as detailed as i could first. I'm lucky enough to have about 1000 photos of these magnificent cars and virtually every book ever published on these and TWR, i really admired Tom, he had plans for everything and MOST came to fruition, I'm sure he could sell ice to eskimos with the amount of big money backing he got through his business and racing career and I'm sure a weekend in a bar with him would of been hard to beat.!!! So I've added brake lines and as many various leads I can decipher from the photos, most of them just run to the floor around the sump but hopefully will give a good impression. The exhaust is only dry fitted but the wiring for the lambda sensors have been fitted. So huge amounts to go and will be extremely slow but I cant afford to rush it, the disappointment would be too much to bare. Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated, it is only a few hours into the build and nothing is final where it is, just mostly mocked up at the moment.
  8. Here it is, some fancy photos of my Airfix 1:32 Jaguar E-Type Open Two Seater. I was going to build it as it came from the box but had to change the wheels and add a few extra details. The colour scheme is inspired by Jaguar E-Type registration 77RW, which is the first OTS E-Type although this isn't quite an exact replica. Added bits are: Mitoos Classic treaded 20x6mm tyres and 16.5x6mm wire wheels supplied by Pendle Slot Racing (very happy with their customer service). Nickel silver wire gear lever, hand brake lever, windscreen stay and windscreen wipers. Plus a rear-view mirror from a bit of sprue and a whole lot of styrene sheet underneath to close off the under bonnet area and cabin. Link to the WIP thread here. This it the first build that I've both started and finished since joining the forum. Enough chat, enjoy some photos. The backdrop for some of the photos is a picture of the British Motor Museum Collections Centre taken from the builder's website and the car is sitting on a sheet of wet and dry paper as the roadway.
  9. I was given this kit today by my team at work as an early birthday present. It was such a lovely and thoughtful gesture that, despite vowing not to start another build until I'd completed one that I'd already got in progress, I've decided to make it a project to get it built in the course of my week off next week. I'm sure the Airfix Jaguar E-type Open Two Seater needs no introduction. I built one of these in my adolescence and so I'm quite keen to go back and have another bash at it. It seems somehow appropriate that the bits come in a plastic bag, even if they are contained within a cardboard box. Limited set of decals but they look pretty nice. And the parts themselves, very much a case of "flash! Aaargh!" As recommended by the instructions, I've given the parts a wash in warm, soapy water. I'll leave them to dry overnight before attempting to start the build properly. I'm not quite sure how to tackle this build as you can't assemble the body without also assembling most of the interior and suspension. The various parts of the body don't seem to mate terribly well, so it's going to be a challenge to get it all together to paint. I'll probably use an airbrush rather than spray cans and I think I'll go for green, rather than the red finish that the box art suggests.
  10. Hi folks, A model I finished a short while ago. I am still quite new to model building, having done many years of miniature painting previously. A few notes on this one. - This is my fifth build and first Italeri kit. This will be the last time I buy a kit without reading a review. A lot of the pieces were ill-fitting and required a lot of sanding and filling. I would say compared to the other kits I have built (a Hasegawa, a Revell and 2 Airfixes) this was the most difficult and very nearly took a maiden flight directly into the bin! - I went a bit overboard with weathering and dirt in part to cover up some of my attempts at correction. A misfiring airbrush then splattered Tamiya smoke in thick quantity - upon trying to wipe it off I actually quite liked the effect and so discovered it by accident (although I'm not sure any Jaguar in service ever looked like it had such a had life! ) - Am not sure about the final colour - I had followed some advice I read online and used Mr Color 313 Yellow, but don't think this quite matches photos I have seen of the aircraft. - I still think the Jaguar is a lovely looking aircraft, and now that it is displayed on the wall was definitely a learning exercise! Any comments very welcome!
  11. Here are my two Jaguars that were worked side by side. The Revell Disbandment 'Spotty' Jaguar GR3A of 6 Sqn, XX119 from 2007 and a Hasegawa Jaguar GR3A of 41 Sqn, XZ103 from 2005 which was the display aircraft for that year. The 'Spotty' Jag was built OOB, the decals were hard work and took a lot of Micro-Sol and touching after afterwards to fill the gaps. Despite the reservations of attempting this, it's not turned out too bad. The 41 Sqn Jaguar was also built OOB apart from the correct aerial behind the cockpit and has Model Alliance decals applied. Both were painted mainly using Xtracolor and Humbrol enamels and finished with a Humbrol Satin Cote. The only difference was the tail on XZ103 which was a pearlescent white that I got the local car parts place to mix for me. The picture doesn't quite do it justice but there is a slight sheen in the correct light.
  12. Well kids.... I started all over again... New thread because the old one was just devolving into a endless stream of do overs. THIS THREAD SHALL NOT BE WHAT CAME BEFORE...THIS ONE WILL BE A FINISHED PROTOTYPE MODEL!! So a few months back my good friend Paul Fisher lost his home and wonderful workshop to fire in Paradise, CA. I am so happy he and his family escaped and in that light the mention of what comes next seems so trivial. Paul was in possession of the masters I had completed at the time of the fire so an opportunity to build a better model arose. Considering the magnitude of the work I previously completed, I started thinking about how to speed up the build. As many of you know I have turned to CNC and SLA type 3d printing to augment the hand building of the model. Until recently I had eschewed the use of FDM type printers due to the inaccuracy of the prints, and significant post processing required after printing model parts. Cost also was a factor, nothing was worth the investment versus the risk of poor parts. Enter the Tiertime Cetus MKIII. This little printer was cheap, precise and worth a gamble. The main feature that attracted me to the printer was the linear guide rails and bearing blocks. These almost guarantee accurate movement of the axises of the printer. With a price in the $300 US range it was worth a try. With the printer in hand and after some tweaking with the assembly of the printer I managed to print dimensionally accurate parts. One inch cubes were printed and were measured by digital caliper only a few ten thousands of an inch from true, and square adjacent surfaces measured with a machinist's square. So I ordered up 7,000g of PLA filament and started a-printing. On a similar journey I ordered up an Anycubic Photon MSLA printer, though this journey was much longer because the Photon required much more significant modification to get true parts. Out of the box it made fantastic parts in terms of detail. However, they parts didn't fit with others, they were skewed in the Z or vertical axis. The modification was much too complex to detail in this post, suffice to say the machine was disassembled, parts were machined true, linear rails and bearing blocks added and a new parts were machined to make it all work. Parts that came out of the machine post modification were exceptional! Now that I have three machines working simultaneously part production has definitely accelerated the pace of this build. I have also made some design changes. Outside of getting another chance to improve the model's accuracy, simplifying and streamlining the build has been a chief consideration. So the model will still be "skinned" in aluminum sheet but only where there are removable panels, the remainder of panel detail will be scribed in to a layer of primer paint. PLA is a difficult material to sand and also hygroscopic and needed to be well sealed. I'm using 2 part automotive epoxy paint (paint and hardener) to fill and "glue" the PLA layers together. The result is a surface that is much easier to sand and finish. You can see a few of the PLA parts were the black primer has been applied and finishing has started. Lastly my machining skills have improved to the point where the acrylic parts now have machined in details, rivets and reinforcing layers etc. Here's a shot of the parts so far. These parts represent the main components of the fuselage from the nose to the engine faces. More detailed photos coming as assembly commences. This will be a prototype model, so I will be finishing this one as I go, so you can look forward to finished assemblies going forward. Thanks for checking in! Timmy!
  13. Begging your pardon, another old kit build. Over 20 years old. As usual the decal is falling to pieces, so I tried to apply them on carefully even if they are in 2-3 pieces.
  14. Hi All, Does anyone know much about the SEPECAT Jaguar? I have the Airfix 1/48 GR.3 kit (Hence why I posted this in Modern not Cold War) and I'd like to backdate it to a pre-Gulf War GR.1 Asides from not fitting the over wing pylons/Sidewinders, does anyone know of any other majour visual changes between the two marks? Thanks for your help in advance! Stuart
  15. Finished this a couple of weeks ago. After a very loooooooong in building, The kit was built almost OOB. I cut away the solid plastic of the nose laser windows and replaced it with layers of '5 second UV Gel'. Main paint was Humbrol 250 Desert Sand. The decals are old ones from Xtradecal 'Gulf Special' which has a few schemes for Tornado, Jaguar, Buccaneer and a Hercules
  16. So I had a great trip to RAF Cosford last week and my photos which I took with modelers in mind have had a great response on Facebook. Someone asked me to share them here so here's a link. Backstage at RAF Cosford Admins if you need me to split this up so it's more specific I expect I can Enjoy I did Alan
  17. Howdy forumites, its been a long time since I rock'n'rolled, but never mind that now. Today, may I present for your consideration a carved wooden series 1 Jaguar E-Type at roughly 1/24 ish scale. Entirely scratch built out of panga panga and basswood, with a little bit of plastic and brass. Took about 6 weeks with numerous pauses while work kept me away from my toys. I Don't think I'll use panga panga again, it is a bit of a pig to carve as it is splintery, and the heavy grain overpowers smaller details. however, it turned out all right, and taught me some more about the joys of whittling. Until next time, keep your tools sharp and your fingers out of the way.
  18. Jaguars at Nellis AFB for Red Flag 84-2, February 1984. XX746 17 Squadron XX750 14 Squadron XX962 17 Squadron XX975 17 Squadron XZ370 17 Squadron XZ383 14 Squadron XZ385 17 Squadron XZ388 14 Squadron Thanks for looking, Sven
  19. Just finished this 1/72 Italeri jaguar GR3 for my grandson. Depicted as the final flight from Coningsby in 1990 (although Sgt Vernon's name on the side comes from the final taxi at Cosford I believe?), The kit is very straightforward but the decals are a bit 'challenging' so buckets of microsol were required! Pilot figure is an awful Sword (I think?) figure from the spares box, but all I had at short notice unfortunately.
  20. Does anyone know where I can get some drop tank decals for an RAF Grey/Green cammo Jaguar 1/72? I have the Hasegawa kit with Pavla resin drop tanks. Can anything else be used from other types?
  21. This was a fabulous kit to make, all the parts fitted really well and with good instructions, as well as a nice array of stores. My first 1/48 kit. I think I left the wing strakes a bit too long, and I haven't got the skill to fashion the three tiny canopy mirrors, plus she's a bit too satin not matt, but I hope she captures the essence of a Jag from the days when it was so much fun to hang out at the end of Coltishall's runway, or see them screaming low over Norfolk! All comments welcome ...
  22. This is my 1/72 Planet Models Grumman XF10F-1 Jaguar. The Jaguar was the first attempt to build a practical swing wing fighter and while it was a good first try, wile most such things it was not a success. I used these 2 links, both members here, as inspiration http://tailhooktopics.blogspot.com/2012/06/xf10f-pictures.html and Including using the Obscureco F9F pather seat and cutting a hole in what would have been the wing butt joint and inserting the part of the wing that was to be cut off if the wings were to be mounted in the swept-forward position which is how I decided to display it. I would rate the Planet Models kit as above average for resin kits with nice molds, fit and very few pinholes. I also had the Anigrand kit, but compared to the drawing is the Ginter book it was way undersized so I didn't use it. The kit included 2 vacuformed canopies and since it usually takes my at least 2 tries to get a vac canopy right, that was a good thing. As it turned out I got it right on my first try. The decals were everything you could ask a decal to be. Very thin, but with enough body so the could be moved around and no silvering. So on to the pictures; These next 2 poses strike me as very bird like Next up will be the Hobbycraft F2h-3 Banshee. Enjoy.
  23. I'm doing the Kitty Hawk Jaguar and wish to know whether to fit the chaff/flare dispensers underneath towards the rear. The instructions do not show them being fitted as a stage but later show them on so are not really useful, box art shows none painting guide has them fitted and googling is frustratingly inconclusive. Can anyone tell me the answer?
  24. Latest kit from MFH - this will be another sleeper - got plenty on the go, but if anyone is interested on what is in the box of this latest 1/12 offering from MFH... New box design! Quite a few plastic parts Grrr - my pet MFH hate...delicate, thin parts, wrapped in tight cling film. Another minor point - MFH include templates for cutting out ali-foil, masks etc etc - but you have to cut them out yourself - which is no problem, except they are printed within the instruction booklet - ie: they have other stuff on the back - so you have to copy and print your own. No big deal if you have a printer etc, but be nicer for these to be supplied on a separate sheet of paper. Red circle shows a useful visual guide to all the similar pipe fittings you have to sort through... This will be fun! Decals... Lovely detailed PE parts... Detail parts... Big canopy to trim... Body is huge! Full size keyboard behind for scale... ....so, a very quick over view. I am sure someone will start this soon. I'll probably do my usual and start with the engine shortly.... cheers
  25. RAF Jaguars at Red Flag exercise January 1983... XZ385, 14 sq XZ369, 14 Sq XZ356, 17 Sq XZ370, 17 Sq XZ374, 20 Sq XZ378, 20 Sq XZ394, 20 Sq XX968, 31 Sq Thanks for looking, Sven
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