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  1. Hi All, here is a completed '40 Ford Coupe I received as a Christmas present (from my in-laws). Its built using the parts for drag use, though whether it would pass scrutineering for class AA/G is another matter! The kit is a Round 2 re-pop of an AMT kit that has been around from the 60s. It seems to be a favourite of US car modellers, from what I can see on YouTube. I built a few US car kits when I was in my early teens and such things were easily available in the UK at Beatties stores. I had forgotten the period features of variable mouldings and being given a set of parts that it was up to you how they fit together. The colour is a custom mix of orange and copper, approx 2:1 using Tamiya paints and a W&N acrylic gloss finish (which now needs a month or so to go properly hard). The colour is more orange in daylight. I had to rebuild the blower intake as the parts were somewhat short-moulded. The Moon tank was made from the gas tank the instructions suggested could go behind the seats, which on reflection is probably safer than at the point-of-impact as I've modelled. Well, I hope you all like this slice of Americana. I'm off to "recover" with a Hase Stratos... Cheers Will
  2. Well, I had the day off work and I still need to get paint for my '65 Grand Prix build. What to do? I got this one off the bay as spares or repairs. It's mostly just missing the engine and a set of wide tyres. All the important stuff is there. So let's see what we have then.... A shelf worn box for one. This was also boxed as 'Heavy Chevy'. There's one on the bay as I write this. Love the shape! The shell. A few very small scratches but otherwise very nice. Lots of other bits including the custom parts. So it'll be another lowrider. Two sets of very similar wheels. No metal axles on this kit, but the wheels must be glued to plastic stubs, so no vroom vroom on the shelf A little later and I had it mocked up to check the ride height and stance. Cool. The front suspension setup is rather vague and requires patience and three hands. How a ten year would get on I shudder to think. Did I mention no engine? Luckily I have a few spares. I chose the one seen here bottom left. Already wired from years ago. The engine simply sits on the crossmember. No attempt at proper mounts then. I found a propshaft that fitted too. And that is where this one stands so far. Looks like I'm going to need more paint fairly soon. Whether the weather will be good enough to paint is another matter. We shall see. Thanks for looking, and your comments are always welcome. Cheers, Pete
  3. First things first... this will not be a quick build. I am posting this to kind of force myself into finishing my Dalek build over on the Sci-Fi forum ( http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234945056-scratch-build-16-scale-dalek-an-eye-for-an-eye-and-some-painkillers-please/?p=1382230 ), and then commencing with this. Posting this will hopefully force me into finishing one and getting on with the other. I've always had a thing about the Aston Martin DB5, especially the Bond version. I'm lucky enough to own a Danbury Mint version of the Bond DB5, and recently I acquired several more versions. The first one I managed to lay my grubby mitts on was the old Aurora version. Of course, it wasn't officially licensed, so it was sold under the completely different guise of "Aston Martin - Super Spy Car" Good versions of these seem (like the original Airfix version) to go for stupid money. So, me being tight and looking for a challenge found this beast up for grabs on evil bay. What on earth am I getting myself into? These are the original photo's from the listing and you can see just what kind of state it is in. The box itself wasn't too bad considering it's about 50 years old. But as for the kit.... maybe just a tad too much glue methinks! Where do you even begin on something like this? Well, obviously, it has to be taken apart to see what we have got. Fortunately, it's almost complete. There are a few parts broken, but should be able to be scratched without too much difficulty. I also broke a couple of pieces taking the thing apart - no surprise there. I tried the soak in water, then leave in freezer method, but to no avail - there was just too much glue. I eventually discovered that the glue bonds were actually quite brittle, so, some judicious coercing and some downright forcefulness arrived at this collection of parts. As you can see I have already primed a few parts - I needed a break from my Dalek build when it wasn't going too well. At this stage I think I can rescue 95% of the parts. A few others can be scratched, but my biggest areas of concern are around the windows. I just don't know if these will be salvageable at all. The side windows aren't really a problem but the front and rear windshield may be beyond repair and I may have to try molding new ones myself. - That's a ways off yet! I have invested may hours scraping off decades old glue, with some limited success. To give you some idea of just how bad this is... here's a wheel hub and here's what's left of the ejection seat and occupant Okay, intro over, now back to my regularly scheduled Dalek build and I shall return here in a few weeks (probably!) perhaps I should also mention that since winning this on ebay, I also managed to obtain a copy of the Airfix Bond DB5 - in a slightly better state but with some parts missing - that shall also become a WIP in due course.
  4. Finished versions. Bought this as an Airfix kit when I was about 8 or 9, so about 55 years ago. At the time it was the most impressive model I'd built. So, slowly returning to the hobby I thought I'd seek it out again. The yellow one is a more recent MPC re-issue. The moulds show all the signs of having been very well used. The dark red (maroon?) one is an original Airfix that had been partially started. Both needed quite a lot of work to get the parts to fit but the MPC still doesn't look quite right. The top cowl/bonnet parts have flattened so that the coach line doesn't line up with the line on the body. Good enough for me as a return subject and a bit of nostalgia. Not a subject I have much affection for other than a trip down memory lane. Rear door handle lost in the recent house move. Any suggestions on how to make a quick & easy replacement rear door handle? h Tyre mark on the white wall from years of storage with a tyre on top.
  5. As mentioned in the chat thread I'll be hitting the strip with a Fox body Mustang drag racer. DSCF2329 by timothy jones, on Flickr Pics of the box contents tomorrow. There are a lot of small sprues.
  6. So calling this one done, Batmobile from Batman and Robin, 1/25 by Revell/Monogram. Hairystick painted gloss black, polished with Tamiya polishes, then sealed with a humbrol gloss cote. Not quite the flawless polished finish i was aiming for but, enough is enough. The perfectionist in me isnt happy, but the hairy stick modeller in me is quite pleased, so that will do. Biggest headache was the simulated light blue lighting and the overall finish as each affected the other. All the best Chris
  7. This is the first and only car model that I have built since I got back into modeling seven years ago. I fabricated the V shaped strap for the fuel tank. It has the correct magneto and wires and extended valve cover breathers. The wheels are correct for the 71 version of this car. I also added the fire extinguishers. The model, posed in front of a period magazine with the Blue Max on the cover.
  8. It's taken a while (close on four months), but I finally got Revell's Chevy SSR finished. As usual, apologies in advance if you feel this is photo overload. And also as usual, all comments and constructive criticism welcomed. If you want to read all about the build, it's in this thread: Back to the beginning, and the first thought was one of disappointment. Is that a solid read axle I see? And are those screws to fit the body to the chassis? So I wasn't expecting much, and being a Level 2 kit thought it might be one to not take much care over. But the kit has won me over, it might have some simplistic items, but it all goes together well, is much better designed than first impressions give, and it builds up into a decent representation of the real thing. If you like the Chevy SSR (and I realise probably about 80% of you don't!), and if you can find one, this is a kit well worth getting. The only thing to beware of is the instructions - there's a few places where you can easily add more detail than the instructions would suggest. I guess that's a function of it being a Level 2 kit. So onto photos, lets start with a top-down shot. If nothing else, it certainly emphasises how much wheel arch is on this thing. Next up, the usual trip around the car. As the roof and bed cover are both fully detachable, this is a bit more of a mix-and-match than usual. I got hold of a couple of cheap lamps from Amazon for the photoshoots - these shots are probably the ones where they came in most handy. Looking at the pics now I think I may have shot from slightly too low an angle, but that's something I can always address come the next completion. Unfortunately, my usual mini-tripod has gone walkabout so I had to use the newer one which has less adjustment. So not the best set of pictures of the engine bay and interior (with ultra-rubbish background), but hopefully these will give the idea. And finally... I thought I'd try some shots with mirrors. Not completely sure these have worked all that well, but they were the only higher angle shots I took. Also, the automatic white balance seems to have gone a bit haywire with these shots, so the car looks much bluer than it really is - the ones against the white background above give a much better representation of the real colour. If you've got this far, thanks for looking and hope you like it.
  9. Hi everyone, having seen that Revell have launched the new tooled E-type, I thought I would give this re boxing a go. It's been in my stash for 5 years or so, the instructions are dated 2011, but the moulding dates back to 1963! I was born in 1962 and my dad was in the car trade in those days and owned a few MK 10's. He had a red hard top E-Type in the 70's which I got to ride in. I still remember the aircraft style cockpit and switches and dials that looked amazing and the push back into the seat as he floored the accelerator pedal.
  10. Already posted in the vehicle section, but the diorama aspect posted here too... Revell 1949 Mercury rust rod, posed against a scrcatchbuilt street and wall. The base is a Hobbycraft frame, cut to size. The wall is made from foam board with the outer card layer taken off then marked up. The road surface is 1200 grade wet and dry paper. Phone booth from Doozy in resin is superb, and the LED lights are from smallscalelights.co.uk, who I highly recommend. Street light is scracth built from brass & plastic tube, with a 'bag stud' used s the shade and LED light from the same source as the car lights (Controlled by a 3 x AAA battery box on the rear of the wall). All the posters are from 1972 and were downloaded from the net. Photos were taken using a smart phone and a Esddi photo box mini studio (recommended! - basically a large black box with 156 LED lights at the top with adjustable brightness). Thoroughly enjoyed the build and look forward to starting the next one.
  11. My latest completion and I must admit I am a bit chuffed with it Revell 1949 Mercury that I was originally going to do a replica of the Badlands film car. However after a coat of black it looked a bit dull, so I re-thought it and decided to do a rust rod. Painted with MIG rust tones/hairspray/grey/varnish/hairspray/green/varnish to get the result. I then had a rush of blood to the head and thought lighting would be a good idea, so got some LED 's from Smallscalelights.co.uk which were great (and the service was excellent). Base and wall are scratchbuilt as is the street lamp (with LED), and the phone booth is a Doozy item from AK in Spain. Probably not immediately obvious, and a bit anal I know, but all the posters, newspapers and licence plate are all from 1972 The year the Badlands film came out.
  12. After a couple of Lancia rally cars completed, had a look through the stash and thought I'd give this a go as I fancied something different Never built an AMT kit before, so it's a learning curve for me, but I've always loved the look of the American muscle cars The wife and daughter got me this and a 70 Corvette from a long shopping weekend in NY a couple of years ago, This will probably be one of the most expensive kits I'll ever make when you factor in flights and hotels etc, but at least I didn'y have to trapse around the shops with them
  13. I've decided to take stock and finish some of the long term projects that I never got around to finishing. This will be the first, as it's almost there. It didn't work out quite the way I intended, because I had some paint mixed from the 1969 paint reference, which was supposed to be T5 Copper. I think it's a bit dark and closer to T7 Bronze, but I decided to stick with it. It was shelved when I came to apply the foil and the scalpel slipped, at which point I lost heart and put it away. Where it all went wrong. Those are the old pictures, from something like 15 years ago. I'll dig it out tomorrow and see how bad it looks.
  14. This one is probably the quickest build I've done, all thanks to being on furlough. The build thread is below if anyone wants to see that before the finished pictures. I can't say that it was entirely plain sailing with quite a few niggling issues coming up along the way. Nothing major, but just enough to keep me on my toes. It's not actually as bad a kit as I may have made it sound, and does build up into a nice-looking model. Unfortunately, right at the start I failed to sand down a couple of ejector pin marks on the engine bay cross-member thinking that these were just going to be against thin air - it actually turned out that the cross-member rests on the radiator which meant that the front bumper doesn't quite sit right. That's what makes the bonnet look as though it's sitting high - actually it's sitting absolutely right with the wings and it's the front bumper which is sitting ever so slightly low (less than a millimetre, and the camera makes it look much worse than it does in real life). The other major disservice the camera has done is the usual thing of picking out all the flakes in the metallic paint - although it is paint for an old car I had the flakes are actually quite small and you don't see them until you get about 1-1.5 feet away from the model. One thing about this colour though is that it does change a lot with the light. This afternoon was quite grey here, so the paint is a little duller in most of the photos than it can appear in sunlight. First of all, this was one where I provided my own light source: Then it's onto a selection of higher angle shots: A few more shots now, but at a lower angle. I prefer this angle of photo, but it doesn't show as much of the car (maybe that's got something to do with it ) I tried to get a shot of the underside by propping it up on some containers - not sure that was entirely successful but it gives the idea. I know that when I put up the Countach RFI, there were requests for close-ups, so here's a few for the Challenger. First one is the engine bay: A couple of the interior - from the instructions it looks as though it's just a sea of semi-gloss black but the decals to lift it a bit. I didn't realise until I'd packed away that I've covered the brake assembly in my wheel close-up. Definitely glad I got rid of the kit chrome and painted them though. And finally, close-ups of the front and rear corners. Unfortunately, the shot of the front really emphasises what I mean about the front bumper sitting below the bonnet. Thanks for looking. As always, all comments and constructive criticism are welcomed.
  15. Having finished the Countach, it's time to move onto the next project - Revell's 2009 Dodge Challenger. Given that I had the news today that I've been put on furlough, I think it's a fairly safe bet that this one is going to be completed in a short space of time (for me). The kit seems fairly typical really. It doesn't wow me like the Countach kit did, but equally, apart from the rear bumper and the fact that the pedals appear to have bent in the box, it doesn't have any obvious issues really. Painting got done towards the back end of last year, and it was a bit of a rush to get it done before winter in the end, but I made it and over winter got the panel lines washed and body polished. Tomorrow, I should get a start on the build proper, but in the meantime here's the story so far. The body itself seems pretty good apart from a very prominent mould line along each side and a couple of sink marks on the wing. The mould lines were sanded back, although they do seem to have left a slight hollow in a couple of places which are just visible after painting in the correct light. Forgot to take a photo of it in primer (but it was just plain white anyway), so this is jumping straight onto it with colour coat on. Being a metallic paint, I decided to attach the bumpers at an offset to try to get a similar shade to the body. Unfortunately I couldn't work out a good way of doing the same with the bonnet without leaving a mark somewhere noticeable. As this is proper car, rather than model, paint I'm hoping that the flakes aren't going to be too big. In real life, they aren't but I am conscious that in photos those flakes can sometimes grow massively. This one is with the clear lacquer applied - I'd forgotten how much of a difference this made to the finish Moving onto the interior & engine bay, this piece was finished in semi-gloss black as was the chassis. Masking was done by various types of masking tape and kitchen foil to enable me to colour coat the engine bay. And this was how it ended up ready for winter. Over winter, I applied black wash to the panel gaps, the blue tack being there to stop the wash running along where it wasn't wanted. Don't worry, those blobs of wash didn't stay there as they didn't survive the polishing. More polishing than I care to think about as I moved from 6000 through to 12,000 grit micromesh before applying Tamiya Fine and Finish polish. Apart from the final coat of wax, this is the end result for the paint. So that's the spray painting done. Time to start building...
  16. Hi guys, this is the final reveal for this very old re boxed kit. I think it was kitted originally by Lindberg, back in the mist of time, and re booted by Round 2 model company, with a few improvements I guess I should have bare metal foiled the chrome trims, but instead used Molotow chrome, brushed freehand. This was quick, but not the sharpest of lines, but I can live with it. Overall not too bad of a build, I detailed up the engine bay with some chrome parts from my spares box, just to give it a bit of life, not really a show car, I wanted it to look a bit used. I had a can of sign writers white enamel paint on my shelf so I used it to paint the white wall tyres; also scratch built the twin aerials on the back of the car using some nylon bristles from an old sweeping brush. The beach boys wrote a song about this car "My 409". Well I better go and polish that chrome, bye for now.
  17. Hello all, This is the sister build to my Dodge Charger for the Film, Fictional and Speculative Group Build in the shape of the Ford Mustang GT Fastback belonging to the hero of the film Bullitt: Cheers, Mark.
  18. Hello all, This is a recently completed build for the Film, Fictional and Speculative Group Build, Revell's 1/25 Dodge Charge RT built as the baddie's car from one of my favourite movies Bullitt. It's also my first genuine attempt at scale auto paintwork. The wheels and hubs are a compromise solution (bodge) as the correct combination wasn't in the kit, the paint finish is achieved with Humbrol rattle can Gloss black with Tamiya rattle can clear coat. The white wall tyres were done by priming the tyre in white and masking off a ring and spraying the rest with Tamiya rubber black. The only thing I've added is the radio aerial. The chrome trim was an absolute killer but was done with a Molotow liquid chrome marker. WIP: Cheers, Mark.
  19. Hi all, Part 2 of my Bullitt themed build: Lt. Frank Bullitt's '68 Ford Mustang GT Fastback. Again no real work done except the same stripping, cleaning, mold removal and dulling of plastic in readiness of the primer. The caveat to these two builds is that they represent my first efforts with what seem to be quite decent and detailed kits of cars. I have previously made a kit of a Ford Capri 1600 GT for my Dad as a gift and painted up as his favourite motor but the kit itself left a lot to be desired as did my paintwork, so an improvement on that finish is my goal for these two models, but having researched I am amazed at the results some guy's can achieve, however I won't be able to use some of the noxious paints and clear coats they do, so we'll see. Anyway, I love this car too, if I ever win the lottery...it'll be a hard choice....maybe both! Cheers, Mark.
  20. Happy New Year everyone, I started this kit just after completing the 66 T-Bird build, but shelved it for a while due to getting the Lamborghini build finished by the end of last year. Anyway I have dusted the box off the shelf and hope to crack on with it over the next few weeks, I found a red example on YouTube that I like the look of, so that's what I hope the finished model will look like give or take a few details. More updates soon.
  21. Hi all, Here is my attempt to get back in the swing of things: The 68' Dodge Charger R/T from the 1968 movie 'Bullitt' staring 'Mr Cool' Steve Mc Queen, slimy Robert Vaughn and two nasty Mob hitmen and featuring THE seminal 'Car Chase' and a brilliant score by Lalo Schifrin. I had already made a limited start a while ago, but nothing more than stripping the chrome parts, washing all the parts and cleaning up the mold lines/sanding the body in preparation for primer and as you can see a few of the motor components have been assembled. I have some Flocking powder to do the interior of both cars and some paint and lacquer on order for both this and the Mustang. Such a cool car. Cheers, Mark.
  22. Revell's 1970 Plymouth Hemi Cuda brings me bang up to date as I've just finished it over the weekend. Not perfect, but I think I am getting better. Incidentally, although it might look as though I have used zero imagination (OK, I did use zero imagination!), I did the car lime green because that's the colour I think suits it best, and built the stock rather than custom model for personal preference. Overall, this is a very nice kit which goes together very well with the exception of the rear valance (more on that later). There are mould lines on the body, but apart from the ones on the A-pillars they are positioned so as to be easy to sand off. The main downside is actually on the instructions where there are a few places which call for the body colour when they should actually be coloured differently. In fact, I inadvertedly got to try out my paint stripping skills on the dashboard which is listed as body colour, but when I did some research turned out to be the interior colour. Lesson learned - do your research before painting, not after So, first up the engine bay. It all went together much better than I was expecting it to with no real issues, even when it came to fitting the body around it. Sadly (sadly?! nothing sad about it), most of it is hidden by the enormous shaker scoop which I ended up rather obviously brush painting, although the camera has enhanced the brush strokes a lot. IMG_6380 Unfortunately, the shape of the car meant it was difficult to get a decent pic of the interior. All down to Plymouth on that score, not Revell for the model nor Canon for the camera. These are the best I could manage IMG_6381 IMG_6383 Onto the exterior, and I might as well get the worst bit out of the way first. The rear valance just doesn't seem quite right. It has to be added on after the body has been mated to the chassis, but the hollows to accommodate the rear cart springs are slightly too wide apart. I hollowed them out further to get it to fit a little bit better, but didn't dare go any further in case I went through the plastic. So it doesn't sit quite right (only by about 0.5mm, but it's enough) and that has meant that the exhausts don't quite go in right either. At least being below the bumper, it's only noticeable if you go looking for it. IMG_6384 The front went together much better. The only real issue was that the bonnet appears to have warped slightly which shows up from some angles, and not too much from others. I thought I had it straightened out before fitting to the car, but it appeared to refind it's warp overnight. At least it's not too major. IMG_6385 Going to be lazy now, and just put up a load of pics from around the car. Incidentally, the bit on the first photo which looks like a run isn't, it's just a badly located reflection of the light tent. Window trim is done using the magic Molotow pen - I haven't done any foiling at all and with the way the pen performs I doubt I will IMG_6387 IMG_6388 IMG_6389 IMG_6392 IMG_6393 IMG_6394 And finally, I gave it a chance to chill in the sunshine in the conservatory. Thanks for looking - time for me to move onto something Japanese I think IMG_6377
  23. Having watched every episode of the Dukes of Hazard many, many moons ago, I always fancied building the General Lee so recently I bought MPCs version of the famous Dodge Charger in 1/25 scale. Now I’m guessing that the mouldings are very old (possibly late 60’s?) so the fit and finish of parts leaves heck of a lot to be desired, but I guess in the day they were pretty much par for course. Anyway, I’ve wrestled and sweated with this kit for the last two months, but have eventually beaten it into submission.....sort of. The surface finish of the rock hard plastic is horrible, and the parts only fit where they accidentally touch, it really is that bad, so lots of filler, sanding and swearing is required to rectify the built in errors. I’ve scratch built the interior rear view mirror, CB aerial and door mirror as none were supplied in the kit, and I’ve cut and repositioned the front axels as the wheels are designed to be fixed ahead which looks a bit of a stiff pose to my mind. Also, I’ve drilled the bodywork to recess the filler cap, added lead wire HT leads to the engine, a radiator top hose and I had to scratch built the bull bars on the front of the car as the kit version was completely inaccurate. The steering wheel spokes and exhaust pipes have been drilled and slotted, and I added a more accurate roll over hoop inside the car. Other than that the car is built straight OOTB! The paint is Zero Paints ‘General Lee’ Hemi Orange, and most of the chrome is a combination of a Molotow chrome pen and Bare Metal Foil. The base is simply made from balsa wood scraps, and the dirt road is simulated with PVA glue and table salt. The whole base is airbrushed with various Tamiya acrylics and then detailed with artists oils and some Humbrol washes. It’s not a build I’m particularly proud of, but I am pleased I found the will to persevere and that I didn’t give up. So, without further ado here is the General for your critique....... The basic (grotesque) kit of parts. The radiator fan blades aren’t even moulded 90° apart and the decals are thick, very thick! Pre-weathered state. Post weathering with Revell powders.
  24. I want to make a landau vinyl top. I also want to add the landau bar. I know how to do this on a real vehicle, but in 1/25 or 1/16, I'm a bit confused. I want to make it the thick padded roof. I was thinking of covering the roof in a layer of sheet plastic and grinding out the space for the landau bar then covering it in masking tape. Any other suggestions? or can this work? I have a photo of a KW K100 with this roof(custom).
  25. This one is Revell's 1/25 2006 Hertz Shelby Mustang, just built out of the box so nothing too out of the ordinary. I completed it last April, and it was my first car build in quarter of a century, so please don't judge too harshly It's also the first spray painted model I've done, as well as being the first one I've used a wash on so it has been a bit of a learning process. As for the kit, it's probably gone together better than any of the other (three!) that I've worked on since getting back into the hobby with nothing that really stands out as requiring particular work other than having to glue in the wheel pins as they were a bit loose as floppy. The issues I had with the kit were very much down to operator error rather than issues with the kit itself. So, time for a few pics. I do appear to have had a bit of an attack of the dust monster when I took these, even to the extent of the blob of dust right in the middle of the lens First up, a standard front quarter view. And it also shows far too well how I managed to sand through the clear coat and skin the side-stripe decal while I was polishing. Definitely one of the lessons learned on this model. Shelby Mustang on Flickr Moving backwards, that decal issue is even more obvious. I also made a bit of a mess of the decal around the number plate, and the colour match between the gold touch up and the gold decal is pretty awful. I'm pleased to say that it seems that I have improved with my decalling since this car. This was also the first time it became obvious that windows are going to be my bette noir, and there are far too many times where it feels as though the windows hate me. On the Mustang, the rear window popped out while I was cleaning it before fixing the body on the chassis and took out a chip of paint and decal. I've done the best I could to stick it back, but you can see the damage in this pic. Shelby Mustang on Flickr It's a similar story viewed from the other side, and it anything the issues with the poor colour match on the rear decal repair are more obvious than the previous photo. Shelby Mustang on Flickr And onto the last quarter view, which shows that I also managed to skin this side decal as well. Despite that, I still feel this is the angle which shows off the car to its best Hertz Mustang on Flickr I thought I'd show one from the front too since this the grille was my first attempt at adding a wash. Tried to clean it up and stripped the chrome in one part by mistake, but I went over that area with the Molotow pen, rewashed it and can't tell where I messed up. I have to say that the Molotow pen is superb, provided the surface below is suitably prepped. Shelby Mustang on Flickr A couple of interior shots, just because I'm quite pleased with how it turned out in here (badly lined up masking tape aside!). My only gripe with the kit in here is that the join between the seats goes right through the seat handle in the headrest making filling the gap in this area to a decent standard a bit beyond my talents. The photos also show another thing I learned from this build - Revell clear spray has a really nice shine, but seems to react to the oil in my skin. I had to polish finger marks off the door panels out and was quite successful there, but unfortunately the damage to the finish above the doors was too great. Cotton gloves for me from now on when handling finished paint jobs... Shelby Mustang on Flickr Shelby Mustang on Flickr And finally, the engine bay. I was pleased with the way this turned out - why to the best bits have to be where nobody sees them? Engine Bay on Flickr Looking back at this, it sounds as though I'm not happy with the build, but in truth I was pleased with the outcome. So long as you don't look too closely, it looks pretty presentable and I'm happy to have it in the cabinet. It's also nice to be able to say that I have been able to put lessone learned into progress on later builds which is another good thing for me. Just hope I haven't gone too overboard with the photos.
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