Spiny

I think what amazes me is how much the different wheels change the whole appearance of the truck. Personally I would have said that the original was too good to mess with, and yet you appear to have improved it in your rebuild.

Always a reliefe when all four wheels sit straight and true both on the ground and in their arches as here. Excellent work in the engine bay too - I have to admire people who can create things like that.

I'd say Number 3, but seeing as my colour vision isn't the best you may want to completely ignore my thoughts...

What is probably the best thing about Sunday is that all of those (including that 95 year old Sunbeam) drove 100 miles or so plus getting to the start and finish and including a couple of laps of Milbrook's Alpine Circuit. Sadly this year it was my turn to navigate 😪

To tell the truth it's got nothing to do with finger control, but how fast you sweep the can across the model. If you start moving and press and release the nozzle when the can isn't pointing directly at the model you can avoid flooding. Then it's a case of a quick pass over the model for the mist coat and a slower, more steady pass for the wet coat. You can also spray from a bit further away to get a mist coat if you prefer, but I find it works better for me adjusting the speed of the pass.

I haven't got fed up of this one, just didn't update last week as there's only so many photos of a part-chromed body you can show. But the good news is that finally I have finished the foiling on the body The foiling looks a bit iffy close-up in places, but I don't think I could do a lot better short of starting afresh... Unfortunately I got nothing else done on it other than a bit of paint over the wipers - they just didn't look right all chrome so I added some gloss black paint to the 'gaps' and flat black to the wiper blades. The photo makes the black look much more different to the blue than it does in real life where you don't notice it. Thanks for looking.

That does make sense - the tub is the epoxy bonded aluminium and, while it's supposed to be stronger than a normal steel chassis, it's also more brittle so if it takes a really hard knock it would take an awful lot of fixing such that in some cases a new tub (if available) would be the more economic option. Pretty much the same story with an Elise too, not to mentioin any other car using the same technique. Anyway, back to happier matters than crashed cars, it was a day to go on a classic car run. Also saw a few others about including a 1930s yellow Rolls Royce and a Reliant Scimitar in Towcester, but these were from the tour: 1929 Sunbeam: And a couple for @keefr22 Not sure why my phone decided to focus on the MX5 instead on the first one.

Can't think why - the shell was just fibreglass after all so shouldn't be any worse than any other fibreglass car. What could be the issue that you're thinking of is that with the end being flat (if you look at most fibreglass cars they have curved front and rear) it might be more prone to cracking in the first place. Compare to the very similar Elise and consider that curved surfaces are usually stronger than flat ones and you'll see where I'm coming from I hope.

Well that turned out much better than it had any right to. Good job on getting everything from two totally different kits to fit together so well.

I fail to see the problem - two adults, two children, two MX5s with four seats between them. Surely this is the perfect answer to who gets to have fun driving?

Nothing wrong with the decalling on that as far as I can see. It's always difficult to get decals to conform to compound curves like this, all I can suggest is patience and softening solutions.

I won't disagree with you there, but I can't complain - one of the best looking cars from the '80s in my opinion but for many people outside of Japan it's probably not one of the most desireable subjects so I'm just glad it was available. Got to admit I am tempted to put a (plastic!) hamster or similar in the engine bay just because it has an opening bonnet.

Don't worry, most of it won't be sanded Although I will have polishing compound used on it so still a risk of burn through when the time comes. Meanwhile, a decent (if chilly) day with low humidity meant it was time to look at the rear clamshell. Not a huge amount to report as most of it was already masked over from a couple of weeks ago when I sprayed the yellow at the front, now it was time for the main black colour. As it had been sprayed in white, I figured it was worth giving it a clear coat to minimise paint bleeding under the masking decals (not completely successful there) and also a mist coat of matt black to act as a primer for the black before giving it a coat in Ford Matt Black. Typically, the finish is pretty good (apart from one small bubble which formed but which I can smooth out), but I can't keep it like that because I have to decal it up and clear coat yet - expect the clear coat to be much worse! As you can see, there's a bit of yellow and black which crept under the masking decal, but those bits are small enough that I think I have a chance of fixing them. Thanks for looking.

Is that a VX220 lurking in the bottom right corner? So nearly got one of these back in 2010, but "practicality" won out and I got a Focus ST instead. Never regretted the Focus, but there are days when I think the Vauxhall would have been really good to have.

Was the unbranded version cheaper than one with sponsors? Just asking becuase I'm sure I remember from a few years ago seeing about a manufacturer (forget which one, but it looks as though it would have been Heller) producing plain versions so people could have the option of getting decals of various versions of the car without the manufacturer going to the expense of producing a set of decals destined for the bin.