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MarkSH last won the day on July 11 2020

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About MarkSH

  • Birthday 05/29/1963

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    Cheltenham, Gloucestershire
  • Interests
    Painting, Modelling, Golf

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  1. Sorry @modelling minion, rather lost my way in all departments at the moment.
  2. Yes definitely up for this one, no idea which kit. or maybe another chance to have a go at a scratch build....great idea Peter. Mark.
  3. Sorry.... 'Rhino 3D' is the 3d modeller in which I created the models, 'Lychee' is a slicing software that as the name suggests slices up the 3d model for printing of each layer and the the 'Anycubic Photon Mono' is just the name of the printer Cheers, Mark.
  4. Evening all, Just a quick update, not much to report, I have been in the midst of some household redecorating and spring garden maintenance of late but the majority of that is complete so I should be able to crack on with my 32nd scale Scooter. The cockpit tub has been completed with some extra insulation/padding added and installed: ...and the major fuselage components assembled and cleaned up, so far no filler used on the top surfaces except just a smidge around the front of the avionics hump and little on the lower rear fuselage, all very simple with very few components and good fit: The engine intakes have no detailing not even a suggestion of the front face of the compressor so you can see I have got some FOD guards loosely fitted in the intakes: ...these are my first efforts with my new toy...a 3D printer and I'm quite pleased with the results. The handle/bar is only .62mm ø and I wasn't convinced it would print, but there it is, awesome! the bar is very delicate but the trick was to clean it up as much as possible before curing the prints as they become quite brittle after. FYI the FOD guards were modelled in Rhino 3d, processed with the Lychee slicer and printed on an Anycubic Photon Mono. So far, very impressed. I have also constructed the previously purchased Flightpath crew ladder...if I'd known I wouldn't have bothered and printed my own, could have done the LAU-7s too, and the AIM9s and the Mk 82s as well!....oh well, never mind, the printer was a bit of a spur of the moment purchase: I have also added some additional detail to the nose gear: The locating lugs have been modified to allow me to fit the assembly much later on in the build unlike the instructions which would have you fit it in the cockpit tub assembly prior to installing in the fuselage...a recipe for disaster. Anyway some progress. Cheers, Mark
  5. Thanks for that, I guess a homebrew heater mat would work as well? as long as I'm not doing a brew, which obviously takes priority.
  6. Evening all, Just applying some final bits to the 1/72 scooter, I had to replace the pitot and the blade aerial on the nose gear door as they both got damaged during construction. I also decided that the blurred ground effect just wouldn't work on a small base and I just don't have enough room for another large base and the whole point of doing in-flight is to get more in the display case. However that being said I think it looks quite effective so far the Mk 82s are on some copper wire emanating directly from their respective pylons. The base is now ready for final priming and a gloss black finish: ....snakeyes watching you! Cheers, Mark.
  7. Hi all, Here to set out my stall or at least showcase the potential candidates, truth be told I'm struggling to make my mind up which ones to go with. I'm nowhere near fast enough to "build'em all!" ......so any preferences?: Cheers, Mark.
  8. Morning all, I am awaiting delivery of a AC Photon Mono, any experiences/observations with regard to optimum temperature ranges for usage and storage of both the machine and the proprietary AC resin? I will be setting up my print station in a store room with a wooden garage type door, its south facing so can get quite warm in the summer but very cold in the winter. Cheers, Mark.
  9. Afternoon all, I have got around to applying and sealing the decals on to the VA-15 scooter: The decals supplied with the kit were thin and well printed, conforming very nicely to underlying detail with minimal use of Micro Set/Sol even the engine intake warnings and the go faster stripes on the external fuel tank. All looking lovely and clean just out of the showroom..... .....well that won't do.... once the decals were sealed I applied a thin layer of oil paint (tiny dabs of white, yellow ochre, Payne's grey & ultramarine) scumbled into the surface and then put some weathering powders into the still wet paint to highlight the panel lines, also including some darker paint for streaking all dragged back in the direction of airflow using a soft brush. I've Just started on the top surfaces the starboard wing and fuselage rear of the intake have been completed so far. More later Cheers, Mark
  10. Thanks @nimrod54, I could watch real sculpting for hours...in fact I have in preparation for this GB at times it was quite intimidating, there are some truly gifted people out there! anyway it's something I've wanted to try in earnest for quite a while so this seemed like as good an opportunity as any. Hope I can pull it off.
  11. Thanks Rob, The armature is made from aluminium armature or florists wire and bulked out with Apoxie sculpt, I used two sizes of square brass tube for the arm connections. The armature does need to be quite firm as the whole thing is getting moved around quite a lot, so a single core of wire like this one isn't really substantial enough, next time I will try a twisted pair of wires. I soften the clay by just holding and kneading a small chunk as required, it can also be warmed by microwaving very carefully or placing a container on a radiator when on. Cheers, Mark.
  12. Thanks @GrahamCC I hope I can maintain the good start and hopefully keep learning along the way. Figure work is always very taxing because of the constancy of the human form in our lives. I have a small advantage being an illustrator and having spent many hours at college in life classes but even so it is vital to constantly checking your reference and make sure you walk away from it at regular intervals, there is nothing better than a fresh eye! Also use a mirror to look at the sculpture it surprising how flaws are magnified when looking at the subject in reverse. Cheers, Mark.
  13. Morning all, I have started the process of blocking in the figure work for my Royal Marine sculpt. early days and a lot of learning but I have to say I am really enjoying this, its very tactile, so far I have used my hands only for the application of the clay (except for scoring a few guide lines) and it definitely helps to feel the volume and shape of the clay. The arms were fitted into position so the shoulders could be modelled. I cut around the shoulder joints and removed the arms, similarly the head at this point is purely sacrificial, when I get to the collar of the tunic I will remove the head and neck and leave a depression for placement of the final head/neck version hopefully moulded and cast separately just like any figure kit. Fortunately the Marine's tunic has a very substantial collar as well as a scarf. Its important to get the figure proportions and volume relatively correct so that the outer clothing can fit/drape realistically. Overall I'm quite pleased with pose, stance, distribution of weight and general proportions. there is still some flexibility to adjust the pose but the one lesson already learned is about the solidity of the armature its just a little too wobbly. The general musculature is a little bulky in places but I will be putting the clothing layer on so adjustments can be made at that point. All the work thus far has been completed using the Medium clay the detail layers including the clothing will be in the Hard clay. Cheers, Mark.
  14. Really enjoyable seeing the process and progression. Fascinating subject and build.
  15. Yes exactly, good photo @Dansk, another potential victim is a very cheaply bought and long term stash resident Revell 1/48 F14 Tomcat, not a stellar model but it would lend itself nicely to some typical US Navy type staining and general abuse possibly giving the full Monty salt weathering treatment.
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