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  1. Looking at my Ferrari F60 F1 build for this GB I have realised that there is going to be a lot of time waiting for paint and decals to dry, so I thought I'd add another build in to keep me occupied. I've chosen an iconic rally car as I don't think even I can get parts mixed up between these 2, but let's see as they're both red Had the kit for a while now off @Anteater and I'm finally going to get round to making a start So this is my place marker for the 1967 Monte Carlo winning Mini Cooper S Busy weekend ahead playing trains at the GCR, but hope to make a start on both builds Monday
  2. Research AP-101C-0601-3A Wasp HAS 1 Illustrated parts manual T. L. Ciastula: The Development of the P.531, The Aeronautical Journal / Volume 68 / Issue 642 / June 1964 D. B. Bathurst: Maritime VSTOL — The Development of Small Ship Helicopter Operations in the Royal Navy, SAE Transactions Vol. 83, Section 3: 740525–740863 (1974) L. B. Bryson, F. E. Heenan, C. A. Johnson: Helicopters in the Royal Navy, The Aeronautical Journal / Volume 76 / Issue 740 / August 1972 J. H. Stevens: Scout and Wasp - Westland's All-British Helicopters, Flight International June 1964 Adrian Balch: Westland Scout & Wasp, Warpaint Series No.110, Guideline Publications. 2017 Larry Jeram-Croft, Terry Martin: The Royal Navy Wasp: An Operational & Retirement History, Pen & Sword Aviation 2018 A placeholder so I can't bottle out of doing this at such a large and (to me) unfamiliar scale once the Sea Vixen builds are completed....
  3. Committing to this Fujimi kit, which I commented in the chat thread. My third favourite racing car. Long time resident of my stash, I hadn't appreciated the history of that race. . . . . . until I watched this DVD, and read the book. Knowing the true story of the finish of the 1966 Le Mans race, rendered ending of the the film a huge Hollywood anti-climax for me. Showing the politics of Ford at the time, it acknowledging the massive efforts of driver Ken Miles, and raises Carroll Shelby to legendary status. With hindsight, I'd prefer to build Miles' car, but this is the kit I've got. Please, no suggestions for after market decals - I'll build the kit as it is.
  4. I'm really not sure what made me buy this one to be honest. I'm not a huge VW van fan so I can only presume that I had an idea it would be fun to take onh the challenge of a multi-part body. Then I got it, saw that it's going to be a bear to spray and had second thoughts. But, all challenges must be faced and it's time to face this one. First thing to note is that I am just following the box art van, so it is being done in the Jagermeister green and orange colour scheme. The alternative plain blue scheme would be much easier to paint, but this kit comes with a lot of nice looking decals and it would be a shame to waste them. I got a bit of a start during autumn last year with some Halfords satin black on the underbody, then it was a case of masking off to get the engine bay done in the same Tamiya British Green as the body. Aftr that I gave the dark green a clear coat with Humbrol Gloss Clear Varnish... which went well - I hadn't appreciated quite how sensitive this stuff is to temperature and especially humidity so suffered an attack of blooming on the wheel arches in particular: Fortunately another coat on a better day significantly reduced the bloom and it should be acceptable now, especially as it will be hidden in the engine bay. The other bit of work I tried at the end of last year was filling in the VW badge recess on the front. For that I used the Vallejo white filler which seems to suffer from severe shrinkage, even worse if you try and wet sand it. This was after the second fill, a third fill still didn't sort things out as it continued to shrink back over winter. Following Jeroen's advice I got some Humbrol grey filler which appears to have worked much better, it hasn't had any primer on it yet so that will be the acid test I guess. Fast forwarding to this year and I finally got the main body parts off the sprue so thought I'd have a rough build to see how it looks. I will definitely need to drill out the holes in the roof and/or scrape paint of the pegs, but overall impressions are that this may well go together better than initially feared. This is far and away the worst angle (which could be improved very easily with some masking tape holding things together better) so I'm cautiously optimistic. So that's the introduction. I have a feeling this one is going to be a bit of a long haul, but the good weather at the weekend meant I got some important early bits primed so it felt like a bit of momentum was coming back into this, although obviously I will have a certain brown sports car to finish first
  5. I started this kit some years ago but home and work life have kept me too busy to do much. I'm not a particularly skilled either so when I have had time at the bench progress has been very slow. Inspired by the excellent work showcased here by others, I figured it was time to reveal my efforts and hopefully pick up a tip or two along the way. I'm very much a large scale fan (all of the kits in my stash being 1/24 scale), and I want it to represent an aircraft of the fifth staffel of Jagdgeschwader 26... more about this later. Obviously, this is the kit I'm using: Sadly I didn't get pictures of the early work... but here is my start on the cockpit: I recognise that something will have to be done about the wheel wells... but I have cut out the flaps so that I can set them in a part down position. Being somewhat enthusiastic to test out my new razor saw, I realised that I hadn't quite thought through exactly how I was going to deal with these once I'd cut them off! It is a bigger gap than I'd imagined it would be . And as for these awful exhausts... they definitely have to go.
  6. I probably won't get into this fully until next year as I think I'll struggle to get it fully painted before winter hits. But hopefully I can make some good progress with the paint so I'll be about ready to build when the time comes rather than having to wait until I can spray the paint on. This one is Tamiya's Monte Carlo Alpine A110 kits which seems to get released in small numbers every few years. It's one of those kits which on first glance doesn't appear to have much to it, but looking at the instructions (and some other builds on here) I'm pretty certain it will be quite a detailed car once done. I've not decided whether to do the #22 or #28 car yet, still got a bit of time to decide on that. But to start with, here's the contents: As I said, it doesn't look much with just the two sprues, plus clear, chrome and bodyshell. But in true Tamiya style those sprues have made good use of the real estate available with quite a few parts on them. First job has been to get primer on the wheels and bumpers as they will be sprayed silver - if I go with the Silver Leaf that has quite a long curing time so I want that to have as much time as possible before the weather turns. No photo as it's only the pieces in primer. I've also removed the rear grilles from the chrome sprue. The instructions would have you paint the body colour in the grooves between the chrome grille bars (yeah, right!, like that's going to happen with a rattle can) so I've stripped the chrome. These will be painted body colour then when the time comes I plan to go over the grille bars with BMF - I'm hoping this will be much the easier method. And then it was onto the body, Last weekend I gave it a quick blow over with primer just so that any mould lines would show up better. There are faint lines which run along the top of the front and rear wings, then as is typical much stronger lines in the hard to reach places such as at the back of the windows and around the front of the body which were a particular pain to sand without losing any detail. This is the end result after sanding the lines back: Today it got put into primer. No mould lines reappearing apart from a very faint bit which should be behind the bumper, and no new lines appeared either so at this stage I'm quite happy with how it turned out. That's it for now, I'd love to make some more progress but next weekend I'm likely to be focussing more on the 300SL I think as that one NEEDS to be painted before winter. Thanks for looking.
  7. It does feel as though we've had a load of very nicely built and modified Mercedes 300SLs on here, especially from Crazy Crank. So time for me to redress the balance with a not-so-well built and barely modified version of Tamiya's kit. First impressions of the kit are that there is a lot in here compared to your standard 1/24 car. I've not done a sprue shot before, but here's what you get: Nice to see plenty of bracing for the body, but it did mean quite a bit of cutting and filing to get all of it off. Once that's all cut off the bodyshell doesn't feel anything like as stiff as it did so definitely a good move on Tamiya's part putting that in. I gave it a guide coat a few weeks ago just to show the mould lines (there is a prominent one on the top of each wing running front to back plus some smaller, but more annoying ones, front and rear. It looks as though I've got them all sanded off now, so it sits here awaiting the start of the proper painting process. The bonnet has also had a start made to it. First job is to remove the ejector marks on the underside. There's quite a few, including some in the middle part. For these, I chose to sand them out rather than fill them as I've heard that clearance under the bonnet is minimal at best, so I figured it was worth grabbing myself a little bit more space, even if it is just a fraction of a millimetre. I've also sanded the inside of the bonnet bulges as far as I dare for the same reason, and I'm going to give the underside of the bonnet minimal coats - it doesn't matter if this part of the car looks very slightly different to the rest. And the other bit which I've started painting is the interior tub. Lots of masking here, some such as for the interior you can see, and some such as inside the wheel arches is less visible. Again, quite a lot of ejector pin marks and these were also sanded flat. Unfortunately, because this part is moulded in the silvery plastic, the ejector pin mark stays visible long after it's sanded flat, so you just have to hope you have them when primer is applied. And in case anyone is wondering, the barbecue skewer is just there to hold it up for painting. So that's a start. The hope is that I can get this painted well before winter as I'd like to get another bodyshell done too before the weather turns. Thanks for looking.
  8. After enjoying building the 1/24 Spitfire Vb recently I decided to extend the masochism by tackling the Hurricane. This one went together ok generally, although the cowlings weren't a good enough fit to be removable. The redundant Spit Mk1 propeller and spinner were used instead of the Hurri's oversized bulbous one, which I never liked. The glaring errors were all my own; once I'd decided to replace the spinner I searched on line for more suitable markings, and I came across the Science Museum's L1592. Unfortunately I'd stencilled these on before I realised the original is a rag wing, so 0pts for research. My other error was to place the fuselage roundels too far to the rear, meaning there wasn't enough space on the starboard side to fit the KW-Z squadron code. The only solution was to apply it in Z-KW format, but as few others are going to see it other than me and the BM bretheren it's a compromise I can live with, it was never going to be an IPMS Nationals contender anyway: And to finish with, some shots with its 1/24 cousins: Thanks for looking J.A.
  9. Whilst going around in circles debating what to do with the engine in the '29 RPU, I gave in to temptation and started this. First issued in 1966 as the 'Little Deuce', a companion to the 1/8 scale 'Big Deuce': https://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/monogram-instructions/show-rods/monogram-little-deu/ Like the RPU, it suffered a Tom Daniel redesign in 1970, as 'Son of Ford'. The Pontiac engine lost its six carb setup, replaced with fuel injection and, for some reason they referred to it as a Boss 302 in the instructions : https://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/monogram-instructions/show-rods/monogram-son-of-for/ This Early Iron reissue came out in 1973, with most of the TD silliness removed. It still has the fuel injected Pontiac, but I have a resin repop of the Little Deuce engine from Drag City castings, so I'll either use the intake from that, or scratch one like it. The kit has been out a couple of times since; in the '80s a small block Chevy replaced the Pontiac and it was last reissued in 2011. What's in the box... blurb on the instructions: Fenders and chassis are moulded as one piece, but it has a nice dropped axle, split wishbones and '39-48 Ford hydraulic brakes. Not shown, the same horrible Good Year Rally tyres as in the other Early Iron kits.
  10. I tend to lurk on the site, and in that time, I've built a few things here and there but never shared them, which I realised it quite selfish, and doesn't really contribute, so I am biting the bullet and showing off a couple of buiIds. So here goes! I finished this kit about 7 months ago, but actually started it back in 2017. Yep, I'm a slooooow builder... I picked this up at Antics in Plymouth for the princely sum of £49.99, which was frankly a bargain. Whilst building it up I realised that I was going to need a bigger workbench: this girl is a bigg'un! I added some Airscale placards, Eduard Brassin cannon (Which don't fit properly) and some PE to the cockpit that you frankly can't see. After breaking the lower undercarriage, (don't ask!) surgery was needed to repair it, so some SAC metal landing gear was grafted on so the plane could sit on its' tyres again. The kit was painted in a combination of Xtracrylix for the camo, Tamiya for the metal bits and engine, and Mr Hobby for the white bits. I also decided to go with a very worn example. I know that this aircraft was one of the tidier examples, but I wanted the lok of an aircraft that has been very busy recently! typhoon_3_4 by DaTinz, on Flickr typhoon_side by DaTinz, on Flickr typhoon_engine_close by DaTinz, on Flickr typhoon_top by DaTinz, on Flickr typhoon_underside by DaTinz, on Flickr undercarriage_detail by DaTinz, on Flickr gun_port by DaTinz, on Flickr cockpit_detail by DaTinz, on Flickr
  11. Having been talking around this one for a while now, I’ve sort of talked myself into this one. So I’ve decided to go ahead and build a large scale Hetzer now instead of waiting for the GB, if it does happen. Of course in the process of building the Hetzer I’ll have to mold it fabricate quite a few sub components that will be of use for any 38(t) chassis so I’ll just build a Marder or a 38(t) for the GB when (if?) it happens
  12. I had it in mind to build one of these Early Iron kits for this GB. I've settled on the '30 Ford Touring, because I remember my dad building it in the '70s. Mine is the 1994 reissue, but the box art and contents are the same as the '70s one. In the interest of getting a GB subject finished, I'm doing this one OOB as a late '60s/early '70s street rod, so no cans of worms will be opened, no mods or re-engineering to sap my enthusiasm. That said, I really hate these wheels and tyres, so I'll be leaving those loose until something better turns up. Unstarted, patrs still bagged.
  13. Well model builders, giving a go at converting an Italeri BJ44 to an FJ45 Land Cruiser: The FJ 45, on the left seems to be ubiquitous around the world, but less commonly seen in the US - they are considered something of a treasured find if you come across one of them. Italeri makes a 1/24 kit of the BJ 44, which is also commonly seen, but also, less so in the US. I like pickups, so am going to convert the BJ to an FJ. This will also include a complete rebuild of suspension, axles, engine swap and so on. First steps, comparing the two in a diagram: You can see the most obvious difference being one has a covered area in the back and the other (what I am building) is a pickup. An important feature of both tho, is the rear, wrap around corner windows - thereby eliminating the idea of "just" cutting off the unnecessary roof behind the cab, and instead, cutting off the roof over the cab, and cutting and reusing the rear portion of the roof and back doors: I've got to say, I use Tamyia tape for so many things in addition to masking - among them, setting guidelines for cutting! Embarrassed to say, keeping these cuts on the straight and narrow - more of a task than a guy expected - they're mostly straight lines along flat surfaces - maybe too much coffee that day! When all was said, puttied, sanded, and so on, the cab turned out fine - barely discernable splice! The Italeri kit doesn't have too many parts - at all. The floor pan, truck bed, bottom of the engine, and chassis are all molded in one piece - not what I'm looking for. Rather than fret, a quick trip to the junkbox, and a replacement frame was found. Feeling full of confidence, I cut apart the cab floor, filled some gaps, added the rear facing corner edges (cut from the rear of the kit provided part), added a firewall, and thought we're good to go! As part of my ongoing effort to create my own heavy duty Dana 60 axles, back to the junk box I went - finding idlers from a Bradley and various bits to make up the diff cap, and pinion, then evergreen and alu tube inserts. Had a nearly built engine on hand, which is fine - as the hood won't be openable, but you will be able to see the side of the block and headers between the chassis and fenders, so I need something, and a small block Chevy is a fairly common conversion - funny bit of info, the small block Chevy is lighter than the Toyota I6 - how about that? The Toyota engine BTW is a great runner - I just like adding the V8 Then began trying to get the body to sit correctly on my donor chassis. Problem number one is that the area of the chassis beneath the cab isn't flat - and the base of the cab is - easy enough to fix, but would require some thought - then, I noticed - the FJ and BJ trucks share a similar body mound, below the center of the grill - note the pic in the upper right with the red circle - and that brutal gap..... How would that get resolved??? Well - a different donor chassis was selected, and a piece of the Italeri part was cut up and modified: As you can see in the left, this was not a pretty job. The Italeri kit part (uni chassis/floor pan) was pretty chunky and not at all realistic. I cut everything in front of the floor pan off, and happily, kept the remnant part handy. I cut the cast in-place, bottom of a motor, out and separated what looks like a chassis from the "flat" front part. Then went about splicing the cut up Italeri part to the other chassis. I didn't take pics of all of this - the process included adding several segments of thick fill material to make what looked like a really big, blocky chassis. Once the glue was set up, went back and cut off all the blocky parts and began filing, shaping, and sanding until it looked something more like a credible chassis. Unhappily, the Italeri kit - does not include a transfer case! annoying - instead, the kit would have you insert the drive shafts into opposing ends of a skid plate. The kit isn't bad at all, but the level of detail/parts count, might suggest it's aimed at newer model builders, which is great - wish I'd have found this years ago! But now, well, I want to build in more detail. So, I'm going to make up a NP 208 or 205 transfer case facsimile to suit my project, will add a doubler, and attach it all to the transmission. I will eventually make a skid plate below the transfer case, but mine will be made from thick styrene rod to represent steel tubing, not adapting the kit part. The next tasks will include narrowing the rear part of the chassis, and making the front axle. From there will being locating and marking the axle centerlines relative to the chassis and fender openings. This will ride on front and rear four link suspension so we have a long way to go. Thanks for having a look, and on we go - Cheers Nick
  14. Finally finished! I started this a good while ago, took a break and then had to find all the bits (in four separate boxes!) to finish it. The kit is Revell's 1/24 Audi R10, which comes with decals for Le Mans cars. However I wanted to do an American Le Mans Series (ALMS) entrant, so it needed new decals (Studio 27) and a few mods, mainly to replace the flush front wings with the heavily-louvred items seen on the ALMS cars. Then the engine and bay were detailed, as was the cockpit, plus double dive planes on the nose, scratch-built headlights and wheels from Le Mans Miniatures. I think that's about it. RFI (ish) is here: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235093097-revell-audi-r10-alms-2007/ This is the engine as built from the kit - it's OK as a starting point, but missing some key components. Also the gearbox is a bit notional:
  15. As soon as Motobitz released their transkit to convert the Tamiya Super 7 to a Caterham there was only one car I was going to make....Mine!! Haven't done that much, I'm only really posting because it makes my 3rd build on Britmodeller feel like it's officially started. I intend to make this as accurate as possible without becoming obsessive (this might come back to haunt me later ). Original nosecone Beginning of modifications Like my previous 2 builds here, thanks for looking, just don't expect it finished too soon - Andy
  16. I'm joining in with this one if you'll have me It should be a fairly easy build and hopefully I can get it done by the deadline I'll probably go with the all over BRS red scheme as I have the paint for it, but not the blood and custard for the BR one as on the box It was new and unstarted and I've just glued the engine and chassis together last night ready for painting More pics later hopefully Ian
  17. So my second entry for the GB and I'm finally building something other than an aircraft this year! Hopefully suitably big and British - 7 litre, V12, 720HP monster, 4.8 metres long and loud as hell. I prefer the look of the open rear wheel Le-Mans version but this is what I have in the stash and I'm going to build it OOB. I'll be adding the cancer stick logos for historical accuracy (I think they come supplied in the kit) - hopefully I'm OK posting those logos/pics on BM? Build to start / sprue shots / etc. once I get the two tiny MiGs off the workbench!
  18. I bought this for a fiver from someone who'd done most of the build. Without knowing their vision, I merely finished it off. One of the few Airfix 1/24 kits I'd not built before, it was a challenge that should stand me in good stead when I build another. Without any further ado... XV788 Flying Officer Paul Meade No.1453 Flight, Port Stanley, Royal Air Force, Falkland Islands, 1984.
  19. I am on a bit of a 1/24 trip at the moment, but this one is out of my comfort zone because it's made of plastic! So I'm prepared for things being a bit clunky and soft, but I have MANY resin delights in the stash, so we'll see how long it takes before I'm missing the smell of polyester. Anyway I had wanted to do an R10 for a while, and though Le Mans Miniatures does a really beauty in resin, it doesn't have an engine and I kind of wanted to have that option. The Revell kit hasn't been out that long, and in fact is due a reissue sometime, but for now these kits are going for daft money. Luckily enough, I followed a few on TheBay and spotted one in France which looked like it had been started and maybe missing a few bits. So it cost £20-ish but seems to be complete and with only the parts cut off the sprues and nothing glued or painted. Result. Here is the box and the bits: So it's more 'Tamiya' than 'MFH', but I think it will build OK. The decals look like Cartograf and include some nice CFRP elements too. The car is a 2006 Le Mans car, which is a fairly plain scheme (all photos mine unless stated): The 2007/2008 scheme is better - this is the Le Mans winner: The plan is to do an ALMS car however, and thankfully the Studio 27 decal sheet is still available: But the Studio 27 sheet gives you the impression that you just add decals to the Revell Le Mans car to make an ALMS version. Sadly it's not so. The ALMS cars featured dive planes and prominent wheel arch louvres (photo below via Audi Sport), so they will need to be included in the build. There is a resin conversion set out there, but it's long OOP and one store in Singapore still shows it in stock despite them confirming they have none! Anyway, those bits will need to be made (circled below) More in a bit. I think I'll be doing Tom Kristensen's 2007 Sebring car, because it's TK's car after all!
  20. This is the MFH 1/24 Ferrari 488 GTE of Clearwater Racing, Le Mans 2017. I saw this car at the 2017 Silverstone WEC round and loved the colour scheme. Though I am also a fan of the Risi and JMW schemes, when MFH released this version, it was a done deal. It's a resin body/white metal details curbside kit but still has a LOT of detail, right down to individual PE panel fasteners and bonnet latches. Paint is Zero Paints' Clearwater Racing set. And the sun came out!
  21. Hello, Straying a bit outside my comfort zone here, with something that isn't mud green, mud yellow or grey. A couple of days back, I felt the need to build a kit that was a little different (for me), and wandered into an LMS, and took a look at what was on their shelves. The thing that caught my eye was this: A Revell boxing of an ICM Model T Roadster essentially a two seat Ford Model T. Sprue shots: The main sprues Think the sprue on the right is unique to this kit, the other two look fairly standard. Again, standard sprues. Separate wheels (presumably in case somebody wants to offer wire wheels?), white vinyl tyres, and a sprue that could have been brass plated, but, fortunately, isn't. And a clear plastic sprue Construction has started, with some key assemblies These need filling and checking but are, otherwise, ready for painting. Revell suggest that the engine should be aluminium, but modern photos of similar, preserved, machines have black engines, with post WWI versions having dark green engines. Dry fitted Afterthought This may not be quite so far from my usual builds as I thought: I have built a Model T chassis before, but then it was a 1/48 scale Soviet AA truck- basically a green camouflaged, 1940s era, licence built, 4x2 Ford Model T lorry.
  22. Hi All, This is the second in my "Promise Made, promises fulfilled" project. I had this model over 30 years ago when it was first released. When I saw that Hasegawa had re-released it, I knew that I just had to get it. My memories of the first time was that it was a rather good model, with crisply moulded parts, and reasonably easy to build. My biggest mistake was to use automotive cellulose paints to paint it. The end result looked very good for about 6 months... Then it started to crack, and look rather shoddy. I removed the body from the floor pan, stripped the cellulose paint, can't remember with what, re-primed and sprayed it with enamels. However, that cellulose had attacked the plastic rather badly, even though I had primed it first. I could never get a good finish on it after that. Still, paints have moved on. I tend to use Zero paints these days and with care, they are much kinder to polystyrene. So, here we are so far: The obligatory box top. This kit comes with a finely detailed engine. Here are the first stages of the build. That's just eight parts to get to this stage, The fit is superb. I painted the block and cylinder heads with Tamiya XF-16, and the cam-covers with my own satin black concoction (One part Tamiya X-1, Two parts Tamiya XF-1 + three parts Mr Color levelling thinner). This seems to make a satin black that is easy to paint and with a finish not as glossy as X-18. I mix up about 25 mL and store in a glass bottle. This gives me enough to spray, if I need to, and it will brush paint well as well. One thig that I though looked a bit naff about the kit was the front disc brakes. For some reason, Hasegawa had moulded them on the 'chrome' tree. Some parts look right in high chrome, like the bumpers, and headlamps/tail lamps. But the front discs and callipers? I think not. This is what they looked like: A touch garish, I think. So out came the tub of caustic soda solution I keep in the garage, and I popped the offending items in it for about 50 minutes, and the result was: Completely stripped. They do seem to be coated in some kind of high-gloss varnish which the caustic soda won't touch, but the removal of the "chrome" seems to reveal more of the moulded detail. So, a quick priming with my 'grey primer' concoction followed by the right kind of colours, will make them more realistic, I think... That was where I stopped taking pictures, as I was making such good progress on the model. Anyway, this where I have got by early this morning... The sharper-eyed of you may have noticed that one of the air filter chambers is not yet fitted. That's because I forgot to cut it from the sprue and fix it on. For small parts, I tend to prime and paint them on the sprue then tidy them up on removal before attaching them to the assembly. This is nearly done. I'll show the images soon. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Alan.
  23. Don't go expecting this one to be completed soon, I'm not expecting it to get started in earnest until early 2022 but with the British weather I figure I need to get this painted before it gets cold (and wetter). This one is the Aoshima kit which was rereleased a couple of years ago - I'm doing the rubber bumper variety as that's what was on the roads when I was a kit. The fad of returning them to chrome didn't start until I was much older. That is an option with this kit, as has been said many times it come with the chrome and rubber bumper parts, but I'm sticking with the unfashionable rubber bumper version. One thing I'm not sticking with though is the triple wiper setup the kit comes with - to me that just looks wrong. So I did a bit of googling and eventually found out where the holes should be for the two-wiper version. The good news is that the driver's side wiper doesn't move from where the kit has it so only had to drill a hole for the passenger side. And as the wiper holes are symmetrical, I could have used the kit to get the location but instead I did it the hard way by finding a drawing of where the hole should be in the real thing and scaling it down. If anyone is wondering, that dimension is 11mm (just under to be precise, but 11mm is close enough) and it just needs to sit the same distance from the windscreen as the other wipers. The hole for the middle wiper needed drilling out anyway, so all I had to do was fill the hole for the passenger wiper. With that filled, I gave it a coat of grey primer to identify any sink marks, mould lines etc. And the good news is that there are very few. I'm not sure how Aoshima did it, but the only mould-lines I could identify are on the front and rear valances and (annoyingly) within the headlight recesses. I did wonder if they'd followed the chome belt line, but if they did I can't see it even in primer. The photo should make it obvious where I sanded it down - there's very shallow sink marks on the passenger doors which is why they got a smear of filler. And the filled wiper hole sunk so has had a second fill, but I'm hoping that will sand smooth next weekend. And that's as far as I've got at the moment, unless you count a coat of primer on the chassis and the wheels. Expect somewhat slow and erratic progress on this until I get the Jag finished. Thanks for looking.
  24. Hi everyone, I'm not sure if I should be posting this topic here or in the Cold War section, so please indulge me a little if you feel I have posted it im the wrong place. I am looking for decals in 1/72, 1/32 and 1/24 for early Indian Air Force roundels, notably, the 'chakra' symbol of a blue spinning wheel on a white circle as seen in the centre of the Indian tricolour. Does anyone know of any decals out there that fit th bill? Cheers, and thank you all very much for any help and for taking the time to read this thread, Viv
  25. Hi all, I’ve had another silly idea pop into my head! How can I get a Seafire III from Airfix’s 1/24 Spitfire IX? I’ve made my best guess at everything I’d need · Mk V nose/cowl · Modified cannon panels (including removal of the 50cal stub) · Scribed wing fold lines · Removal of the second underwing radiator, to be replaced with an oil cooler · Fuselage strengthening plates and lifting points · A-Frame arrestor hook Aside from that, I believe everything else is in the kit to make a Seafire III, specifically the 4 blade prop, 6 stub exhaust, later elevators and later armoured windscreen. I’m sure I must be missing something – it would also be nice if there was a conversion for the nose at least! Cheers Ben
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