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Research AP-101C-0601-3A Wasp HAS 1 Illustrated parts manual T. L. Ciastula: The Development of the P.531, The Aeronautical Journal / Volume 68 / Issue 642 / June 1964 D. B. Bathurst: Maritime VSTOL — The Development of Small Ship Helicopter Operations in the Royal Navy, SAE Transactions Vol. 83, Section 3: 740525–740863 (1974) L. B. Bryson, F. E. Heenan, C. A. Johnson: Helicopters in the Royal Navy, The Aeronautical Journal / Volume 76 / Issue 740 / August 1972 J. H. Stevens: Scout and Wasp - Westland's All-British Helicopters, Flight International June 1964 Adrian Balch: Westland Scout & Wasp, Warpaint Series No.110, Guideline Publications. 2017 Larry Jeram-Croft, Terry Martin: The Royal Navy Wasp: An Operational & Retirement History, Pen & Sword Aviation 2018 A placeholder so I can't bottle out of doing this at such a large and (to me) unfamiliar scale once the Sea Vixen builds are completed.... 😁

Time to unveil the next car which will be getting some paint on it this summer. But this one is going to be a bit more of a challenge than the others... If we go way back in time to Christmas 1988, 12 year old me received this kit as a present. At that time I didn't have such useful stuff as paint, and I think this may have been the first time I used cement rather than UHU (I thought it was UHU, but judging by the strip down performance it seemed as though some parts had been cemented - damned if I can remember after all this time though). Anyway, as is usual at that age I leapt straight into it whenever I was allowed space on the kitchen table, and set about gluing bits together. No paint meant the whole thing was yellow, but never mind, I could make up for that by using all the decals for both the #7 and #8 cars - that'll make up for the lack of paint right? 🤣 Anyay, after 10+ years sitting on a shelf, and another 20+ sitting in a box it was looking a bit sorry for itself. First job was stripping it down which I always find quite a depressing part of the job - it almost feels like you're destroying it rather than rebuilding it. And this one didn't all want to come apart easily; there are some parts where the plastic preferred to break rather than the glue come unstuck so I'm just hoping I can get those repaired something like ok. And then there are a few pieces gone missing over the years, but as far as I can tell there's no more than 5 missing parts, none are clear and all should be capable of being replaced. So time to go ahead. And, after attacking it with vinegar, IPA, the freezer, hot water (accidentlly too hot for half of the engine block but I'm hoping I can salvage that) and the ultrasonic bath I ended up with a load of pieces: Not that really does look depressing doesn't it, seeing a model housed in some margarine containers. It gets worse if you look close-up and see the broken bits too. But no point dwelling on that, it won't fix itself so better get started. First bit to try and get ready for paint is the chassis. I've brushed some acetone over the bits of glue on the surface which oftened it to aid removal - I avoided using that during the strip down as I was worried about melting the plastic rather than the glue, but it looks as though I would have been better using that than all the other things I did. So with the glue softened, careful scraping with a #17 blade and som esanding has left it almost in a position to spray the primer and see how bad it looks. Just two problems - firstly I'm still spraying the Micra and Pontiac... And the second problem goes all the way back to 1988 when I didn't have sprue snippers and instead used the kitchen scissors. And when I removed the chassis from the sprue it looks as though my aim was off and I took a chunk out of the side of the chassis. I decided it would be better to try and fix than now rather than leave it, so first step was to put some plastic card in there to give a base: Once that was set I applied some spare sprue dissolved in acetone (well I say dissolved, it has actually turned into a gloop) as I wanted something a bit stronger in there than thinner. But I got it applied and sanded back, only to discover that I hadn't quite got it built up enough. But as I had got enough strength into the repair I was able to add filler today... at which point I realised I hadn't got a pic of the repair. But hopefully you don't need a photo to imagine it all straighted out. So that's the start of my scary Porsche restoration challenge, expect it to be slow and painful but hopefully you get the picture. Thanks to all who drop in to look at it.

Hello all, Having just finished the last update today over on this thread of two years research and design work on 1/24 and 1/32 versions of the Westland Wasp helicopter: - I'm starting this new thread here to outline the 3d printing and contruction of the kit at 1/24th scale. The project includes options for both torpedo (Mk.44/46 versions, Mk.44 shown here): - and AS.12 missile version: With working blade folds on both: This thread wil be quiet for a bit whilst I put the next series of parts on to print, but eventually we should end up with something approximating this as a physical entity: Until the next instalment: Tony

The Briggs Cunningham team entered 2 cars in the 1950 Le Mans 24 hour race. One was a standard(ish) 1950 Series 61 Cadillac, the other was an experimental car with streamlined bodywork and subsequent weight reduction. Unfortunately the streamliner car was involved in an 'off' resulting in time lost due to Cunningham actually having to dig the car out of the sand banking by hand. The end result saw the standard body car finish in 10th place, one position ahead of Le Monstre. A failed experiment but one that left us with, well, a talking point at least! Resin kit is from Roaring Replicars and was painted with Zero paints. Various details were added including the provision of recesses for the front and rear lights, bonnet straps and seatbelts from spare etch and tape, etc. It would be great if a standard 1950 Cadillac kit was available in 1/24 scale, just to build and display alongside the monster. It would show what you can do with a load of steel tube, sheet metal and a little help from a Grumman aircraft engineer 😊 I do hope this hasn't hurt your eyes too much 🤣 Atb, Steve.

Bedford 'OLB' Tanker Emhar 1/24 One of my occasional forays into vehicle modelling, you guys produce such lovely work that I get tempted by your results! I've long been tempted to try one of these Bedford kits, and wasn't disappointed. I thoroughly enjoyed it. I wasn't too sure about the lighter French blue suggested on the kit instructions, I thought it looked a bit toylike, and considering that I have no idea what the original color was, I went for a darker shade (Tamiya TS15 from a rattle can, 5 coats micromeshed in between). My model, my choice and I like it, although the red 'Motor Spirit' titles are a little dark! I had problems with the front mudguards as they left quite a gap when I came to put the bonnet sides on, and had to cut them off and reset them. Lesson learned for next time! I have hardly put any weathering on it, as I am a bit nervous of messing up the finish, maybe later. I've now bought the little breakdown truck to have another go. Damn that devil dust that only shows up when you take photographs! Thanks for looking, John

The first of several 'in progress' projects I'll post and the most recent one I started. It's the Tamiya Mazda Eunos Roadster, or MK1 MX5, or Miata... Anyway, I bought this because it was cheap and I thought I might lower it and chuck some little fat wheels on. But then I thought that's what happens to most MK1 MX5s, so maybe I'll make a dune buggy because the tyres should be fairly easy to model. So I need to model a lift kit and some wheels, maybe a roll cage and new exhaust. First thing I did was wheels and tyres - because it's fun! I decided to recreate the original 14in wheel centres but as though they'd been machined from the original wheel and converted to split rims. Then I went with a 17in front rim and 15in rear to keep the overall diameters similar. The wheel centres are the same front and rear (because they're modelled on the originals) and I made separate valves that push in from the outside. After printing a set of these and mucking about with them for a while, and making a start on the front suspension, I decided I'd quite like to do a set of off-road wheels, too. Then I could make a trophy truck or rock crawler type vehicle as an alternative. Because the off-road wheels would be a square set-up (same diameter, width, offset front and rear, not actually square!), I thought my rear offset on the sand wheels was a bit too aggressive for the suspension to work with both sets of wheels and keep a similar front and rear track. I re-modelled the rear rims and re-printed them. As you can see in the photo below, it's not a massive difference (1.4mm actually). The left is the original and the right is the new version. Below is the final set of sand wheels and tyres with an original wheel and tyre for comparison. In order to create the off-road wheel set I needed to up my tyre modelling game and picked the Yokohama Geolandar X-AT as my inspiration. This wasn't too bad to model as it turned out and I'm really happy with the result. For the wheel, I went with a Fuel Zephyr as my starting point but made them a 4x100 bolt pattern to match the original MX5. I went for a 17in wheel and I can't remember what size tyre I picked but it comes out at about a 32in. The wheel comprises a Tamiya style locator that is also the wheel nuts, the wheel, a centre cap, a valve and a lock ring. I did this mainly for ease of painting Although, the separate centre locator does mean I can create an Aoshima/Fujimi style one in the future. I'll probably model some 5 and 6 bolt versions of the wheel, too. Once I'd printed the wheels and tyres, I thought it'd be much better if I gave the tyres a bit of 'sag' so they look like they've been aired down for off-road use. I use Fusion 360 for my modelling but it isn't really made for deforming stuff. As it happens, I also have a copy of Blender installed, so I used the mesh deformer in that to squash the bottom of the tyre and I'm really happy with the results. Below is a photo of the full set of wheels and also a comparison between round and sagged tyres. Whilst I'd been messing with wheels and tyres, I'd also been working on the front suspension mods. These components basically replace the kit originals directly with the removal of the anti-roll bar and addition of a sump guard/skid plate. I didn't want to have to cut or modify any of the original kit parts, so the front and rear track are vastly wider that original for tyre clearance. In fact, the wheels are entirely outside of the original bodywork! Although this doesn't articulate, I did check that it was "useable" in terms of camber and steering. It has a crazy amount of lift and I wanted to give as much ground clearance as possible, so the track rod angles are ridiculous. Through the full "movement" of the suspension, though, the hub would remain the same distance from the steering rack, so it shouldn't be a nightmare to drive. The track would actually alter dramatically, though, and I guess that's not ideal. Here are some shots of the front suspension so far, with comparisons to the original kit parts. Everything is beefed up for off-road use. I'm now working on modelling the rear suspension and am pretty much there. I still need to work out the propshaft, differential and half shafts, as I'm keeping to independent suspension. I think I'm going to attempt to model a Mazda RX7 diff and use it upside down for extra ground clearance. Here's a render of where I'm upto so far Wow! I think it's taken me almost as long to create this post as it has to model everything! I was thinking I could actually create a full exo cage for this and make a military version so I'd fit in more Anyway, if you've managed to make it this far down, I hope you've enjoyed it! Cheers Martin

Hello fellow modelers. This is my last project, the Renault 4L in 1/24, by Heller. This model is the Renault 4L basic, (labeled "TL", ) which means that has no antenna for radio system, or side protect panels alongside the body. Year 1985. I have decided to represent it in a quite acceptable condition, without being excessively worn out. The built is totally OOB. Most of the time was spent in the engine bay, that I tried to reproduce according to the real thing. The front bonnet an the right door are not glued, in order to see the interior: A fun model, that I hope you like and enjoy, as I did during the modelling. If you want to see the bulidng process, this is the link to the WIP thread: Rhank you for watching! Josep

I pre-ordered the transkit as soon as it was announced. Originally I was just going to build a model of the car my brother in law owned back in the day, shortly after, I plumbed or the X-pack version as well. This build will be the factory stock version in signal yellow. Unfortunately, neither me or Kev can remember the full reg number, it was LUV ***X as far as we can recall. I'll make up the numbers, it will have to do. Initial work was removing the printed parts from the frames and cleaning up the body. There is much more here than I was expecting and the quality of the parts is superb. The bonnet has some fairly pronounced striation lines but I've sanded this back a fair bit so far. It will be more telling once the primer goes on. A few pics to illustrate the contents. The kits are well presented in stout boxes with all parts sorted in separate bags. The body fits on to the chassis very nicely. The interface at the engine bay is quite good, the unsightly gap present on the kit parts is avoided. The chassis improvement work will be the biggest job in the whole build. The wheels and tyres needed a bit of sanding to fit. Love the old fashioned 'deep' rubber on these 😊 Front nosecone and bonnet fit is good. I also tried the 'glass' part in the body. Fit is very good. An improvement would probably be to replace the side windows with clear sheet, Work started with prepping the chassis pan. The fuel tank filler piece is a great improvement, there are some more holes in the wheel arches, easy to fill with thin plastic card and a smear of filler. An example of the quality of these 3D printed parts. Front McPherson struts have the springs printed open 👍 Will be a headache to paint the springs a different colour to the shocks though ! Lots of cleaning up and test fitting to follow before any primer can go on. Atb, Steve.

I bought this kit second hand during the first covid lockdown - as we have come to expect it was less than a month later that Tamiya announced they were re-releasing it for (fortunately not much) less than I paid and with additional photoetch. So this one is being built without the additional detail of a brand new kit, and the added disadvantage of 25 years old decals. The kit was virtually unstarted... I say virtually as two wheels have been removed from the sprue but that was it. Don't expect rapid progress with this one, I'm getting the traditional summer paint on now, but there are a couple of other builds to finish before I start gluing it in earnest. First job though was to get some gluing done - the lower part of the front end is a separate piece to the main body, and as far as I can tell the only thing I need to glue inside the two pieces down the line is the mesh that makes up the grille (although there doesn't seem to be any mesh in the box so I will have to take some left over from another kit). With the lower part glued solid, it was time to get some filler into the gap as this is a single piece of fibre glass on the real thing as far as I can tell. So with the gap solid, filled and sanded I had the body looking something like this. After that, it was a case of scribing out the panel gaps with a 0.4mm scriber, then on with a coat of Halfords Grey primer on the body and all the large bits which will end up satin black. Surprisingly I seem to have a done a good job at sanding down the mould lines as there aren't any immediately visible. Even more surprisingly, there are no sink marks on these parts other than a couple on the floorpan - I won't fill those as they won't really show when complete and you don't expect perfect floors anyway. It does look as though there is a very slight imperfection where I've filled the join between the two body parts, and the scriber has slipped on the roof so I will need to fill that, but overall for a first guide coat this is looking quite promising. I think the join just wants a light sand to get it fully smooth (I might have got away with it with a heavier coat as I think there's an element of the slightly rought texture of the filler coming into play here), while a very light skim and sand should sort out the roof. And that's it for my first post on this one, don't be surprised if it takes me a year to finish it though!

Seeing as the Skyline is all but finished, I may have intimated to @Col. that I would look in the stash to see if I had anything else suitable. All I have is '98 and a '99 versions of the Tamiya Subaru Impreza WRC Col said that the Colin McRae '98 car would be his choice, so who am I to argue with the boss 😉 Here is a place marker for my build, which will be OOB. I'm away at the end of next week for a few days, so I may get a few bits in prep beforehand, but there won't be mega speedy progress. This was the first car I built getting back into modelling and I always said I would like to redo it now I have more of an idea 1st pic below was my effort from 2018, missed some detail painting out and decals not sat down properly, probably won't go with the night light cluster either as I already have this car in the display with it on Ian

My victim for this is the Tamiya Skyline R34 in Millenium Jade paint from Zero (2nd pic not mine but borrowed from net just to show colour, not exactly same spec car though) I don't normally build road cars as they don't interest me, but I got bought this as a Christmas present a couple of years ago and this is my best chance of finishing it I'm hoping for a bit of decent Tamiya parts fitment after the Airfix Ford 3ltr GT I'm currently on Ian

After building the Mustang GT4 I'm getting on with a Tamiya Skyline R34 Nur version in Millennium Jade. I don't normally build road cars as they don't interest me, but as it was bought for me I'm going to do it for the Asia GB in Zeros Millennium Jade paint as the Nur version, which I believe was the only version Millennium Jade was used on. Prepped bodywork and mega priming session for all chassis stuff is all for now. Ian 😀

The Cunningham C-4RK is either the most handsome ugly car ever made, or the other way round. Either way I love it; first raced by the Briggs Cunningham team in 1952, it looked years ahead of the competition even then and was still racing competitively into 1958. Powered by a 5424cc Chrysler Hemi, the C-4RK was the only vehicle ever designed by Wunibald Kamm (he of Kamm tail fame); thus it was probably the first race car to feature Kamm’s signature cut-off tail and this alone makes the car look a lot more recent than its 70+ years. This is Profil24’s lovely 1/24 kit, with a few tweaks, mainly to the interior. I also wanted to depict a fully open grille - the car as depicted ran at the 1953 Le Mans 24 Hours with varying degrees of intake blanking-off; hence the studs fitted around the lower edges of the grille. To model the non-blanked grille, I ground away the kit’s moulded-in detail and made a new one from plastic mesh; the race number was then masked and the white sprayed directly onto it, just as they did in-period. Other than that it’s pretty much OOB. Oh and there was a flaw in one of the headlights so they are held on with Blu-Tack at the moment. Profil24 (awesome customer service) are sending a new one, free-of-charge. It’s no surprise that the company’s kits form the largest part of my stash.

Unless I have completely missed it on the site, the latest issue of Airfix model world is leading on a new Mk. 8 variant from the 1/24th Mk. 9c. It has a completely new Mk. 8 specific sprue, and various changes to complete the new model. It will be available apparently in the Autumn.

Still on a break from my stalled FW-190 project I figured this little kit would be a short fun build. How wrong was I?! Turns out that for my shaky hands and poor eyesight its a fiddly little bleeder that requires to be painted and decaled before assembly... and then, when assembly starts is a fragile kit that lacks suitable holding positions... i.e. you can't place it upside down on a box lid for example whilst you work on the underside. Still, gripes aside (I like to whinge in my senior years), I have honestly enjoyed building it and am pleased with the result... although I think Airfix should up the skill level from 2 ! Another problem area I had was my decals. Not sure if it was due to the age of them or something having been spilt on them by the previous owner but they would just not separate from the backing paper and required a lot of coaxing to remove them. Additionally, I was aware that their thinness would mean the white was translucent - so during the build I first sprayed the white areas and then masked them off before painting the yellow and silver. This seemed to do the trick - although I'm sure more competent builders would probably do away with the decals and just use masks instead. Adaptions from the box kit were: - Replacement rocket tubes from Evergreen styrene tube and rod - Replacement AA missiles from Evergreen styrene rod and sheet - Replacement machine guns made from brass tube - Seat belt made from masking tape and wire - Fuel and brake lines from fishing line - Spark plugs by AnyZ - Spark plug cable and control cables from varying gauge wire Anyway, here it is:

When I first heard of the SalvinosJR kits for the next-gen NASCAR race cars I fancied getting one. But postage prices US-UK had just gone doolaly so I had to wait for them to appear over here. Spotmodel listed them but then their distributor dropped out for some reason (they can supply now I believe). This kit then came from d-Model in Portugal using one of their frequent discount and free shipping promotions. The kit fills the box well, but there are some quality issues. The instructions need a jaundiced eye and some parts like the under tray was warped. Once altogether it comes together well and Salvinos seem to offer lots of choices for the NASCAR grid. The decals are really good quality, I did seem to get a slight reaction between them and Tamiya X-22 with MLT, but this may be down to my first effort with this gloss combo. For now the body is removable from the chassis, not perfect once in place but looks the part. Even so plenty of detail is fairly well hidden after assembly. Also (luckily) I left the intake duct to the top of the engine loose, as the bonnet/hood won’t sit properly if fitted. Min paint is Tamiya TS-44 Brilliant Blue, possibly not quite right for Hendricks Motorsport blue but seems to look okay. The white is decal included, getting these to lay down was challenging but only due to size over curves, the decals are actually really nice and well behaved. This represents the 2022 car, Kyle Larson version was one of the first released so I suspect decor is from a proposal rather than any race? Subsequently Salvinos have issued many kits in specific race decor. It’s taken a while to get this finished, more due to long breaks, but it’s been worthwhile and a good looking addition to the display line.

Hi everyone I just wanted to share my thoughts and progress using the Cricut Explorer Air 2. I received my Cricut last Wednesday, my wife brought it for me for my 50th birthday (thank you Leanne). Now I'm a bit of a luddite when it comes to technology and I'm incredibly lazy I just want things to work with out any messing around but to my surprise the Cricut is very easy to use and I think the masks that you can make are as good as any commercially produced items. I started by looking for any additional software that you might need to use for designing and producing masks, the Cricut software is ok but almost every user I could find recommended using Adobe illustrator so I duly subscribed to Adobe (£19 pcm) down loaded the software and had a play. I started by producing a series of RAF roundels circa 1939 - 45, I found several references online that gave the size of each roundel type in inches so I found an online conversion tool and converted these measurement's to cm and drew them in illustrator to 1/48 scale. I then sent the image to the Cricut software and cut my first mask a Type A.1 roundel in 1/48 scale. I used some white vinyl which has proved to be very hard to remove because its too tacky and it lifted the paint. I had another go, this time creating a mask for a 56 in, 28 in, 21 in upper wing roundel again in 1/48 and sprayed that (see both roundels below) Not too bad I think I could be onto something here? I then decided to create some templates for RAF fonts circa 1939 - 45 again a search of the internet threw up some examples so using these a place to start I produced my own set of fonts again in illustrator.. ..for my next test I scaled my drawings to 1/32 and created some more masks this time using Frisk film as the masking medium and this time sprayed my 1/32 Fly Hurricane paint mule again applying a Type A.1 fuselage roundel and code letters.. I think with a little more practice the Cricut will prove its worth enabling me to produce any set of codes, markings, camouflage, wheel and canopy masks. I think the Cricut is a great bit of kit, not cheap (my wife paid £260 for mine) but I'm the kind of person that will spend a small fortune on after market masks so I think that for my it will cost effective in the long run plus its quite enjoyable researching and making the masking templates. Cheers all Iain

This is my model of the Koenig Specials Porsche 928 S4; Fujimi kit #12003 (RS-03). The model is completely out of the box, painted with Model Master Turquoise Green over Tamiya’s Champagne Gold. The sample dot on the lid of the Model Master paint shows much richer colour deeper in blue so the paint is something of a disappointment. The interior is various Tamiya tans and light browns. The kit is very simple but goes together well, and the final model looks good on the shelf. Thanks for looking, Grant. With my model of the Fujimi Koenig Specials Porsche 911 Biturbo.

While we are all patiently (?) waiting for the C1 Models RS 2000 transkit to arrive, I thought I'd share a model I built of it's baby brother, the Mexico 1600. This was built late in 2022 using the transkit from Motobitz and the ubiquitous Esci/Revell/Italeri (not sure if any other manufacturer popped this out?) MkII Escort rally car kit. Nordic blue was an available colour option but very rarely chosen according to the owners club. I thought it looked super so, the Zero paints offering was duly purchased. I wanted to go for a modern look with this one, a lot of the cars I see on the show scene have been modified in some way, a common change is the wheels. I had a resin Pinto OHC engine courtesy of my friend Richie Griffiths. The rest of the engine bay is scratch built. Atb, Steve.

This is my finished Aoshima Toyota Celica LB 1978 (kit #049198). Paint is Model Master Turquoise Green over Tamiya TS-50 Mica Blue. The use of the blue undercoat was suggested by a family member with a graphic design background as an attempt to bring out the richness of the green suggested by the rattle-can lid. The thickness of the lacquer paint meant the blue did not permeate even the first coat of green, however, so the end result is almost like a metallic pastel; if such a thing exists. The model was built out of the box. This is an update / reissue of an old motorised kit, so the details are not great; especially the suspension and chassis. I decided not the install the very chrome front and rear bumpers as I liked to look of the bumper delete. The kit box-art and instructions also called for chromed front and rear light clusters, but I went with other versions in the kit that I painted Tamiya Champagne Gold for accent against the green. The wheel spokes are also Champagne Gold. Grant.

Hi, One of my friends asked me about how to paint 1/24 scale female figures such as those made by Master Box... http://www.mbltd.info/figures/1-24-scale/spaceport/24052.html She was curious about how to paint lace on chlotes, fishnet stockings etc in such small scale. As I never have built or painted such figures I didn't have any clues concerning painting lace etc. Is there any experiences or advise to get? I remember those Airfix figure kits of British Queens with fantastic dresses and lots of lace. Was it possible to paint those figures according to instructions/boxpictures? Cheers / André

I thought that I would open my account for 2024 with something different and a subject that I am unfamiliar with, so I will get to learn something along the way. The moment I saw the Record I thought that curves typified the rounded shapes of many American and European car manufacturers of the 1950's, add to that the chrome enhancements and I was sold on the idea of building this. I am not sure how far I will get, it depends how I cope with my chemotherapy treatment, but I am hoping that it will keep driving me forwards and give me another target to aim for. Here are photos of the box and contents and I don't intend adding too many bells and whistles so it will be built more or less as it comes. The Box, by John L, on Flickr Body, interior and chassis parts, by John L, on Flickr the shiny bits and tyres, by John L, on Flickr and finally, a set of destructions. by John L, on Flickr Off to check the ol' tinterweb to see what I can find. Cheers for now. John

This is my model of the Fujimi Volkswagen Golf MkIII VR6 (kit #03241 / ID-60). The paint is Tamiya TS-95 Pure Metallic Red (Mazda Soul Red) over a gloss black undercoat. Centres of the BBS wheels were painted gold for accent. Interior is various shades of black and dark grey. Homemade numberplates using the “Euro style” of plate available here in New South Wales, Australia. I think this might be the first time I cut the roof and installed the optional sunroof. Arguably the ride height is too high but I decided against modifying; it looks fine on the shelf. The kit had a very different assembly style to what I am used to, with some parts being screwed together – e.g. the seats onto the floor, dashboard into interior tub – while the glass has a snap-kit style of installation with locator pins which meant no glue was required. It would be an ideal kit for someone transitioning from snap-kit to full glue models. Not sure how many kits with this style of assembly Fujimi made, but I think I have a Lamborghini Diablo in my stash that is similar. Anyway, here are the photos. Grant.

HI,everyone!!😄 this is my 1/24 takara scope dog "votoms scope dog" is a 80's Japanese sci-fi animation..remind me my childhood memories.. this kit first release at 1983..then re-release at 1997..I got a one at that time.. build this kit almost 20 years ago..never paint it until now...😅 I am glad I finally finished it.. hope you like it..

This is the 1/24-scale RealSpace Mariner 9. It includes resin, styrene, and PE parts, and wire. Rather than use the full solar panel decals provided, I cut out the individual blue solar cells and affixed them to gold-painted panels. I also "upholstered" the main probe body in LDPE plastic wrapping to better simulate the sheet material covering the actual probe. Painted with Alclad, Tamiya, and Mr. Color. Light black enamel wash on vents on the octagonal bus. Not complicated but still a challenging, but fun, build. Thanks for looking!