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  1. Anyone who's been down in the Group Build section will have already seen this one (so apologies for any duplication). It's one which has been on sale quite cheaply recently, Revell's 1966 Hertz rent-a-racer Mustang. There's not really a lot going on here, it's just been built straight out of the box. The build thread is here: As I said, this one is built as Revell supply it, apart from some plasticard backing to the numberplates to give them a bit more body. It's not perfect, but perhaps because it's quite simple is one of my better builds. For a kit dating back over 30 years, this one is a good 'un - no real fitment issues and it builds up to a nice model with minimal extra effort. I know this is a bit of a heresey, but I'd almost go so far as to say that it's slightly better than a Tamiya kit of the same vintage, with the only challenges being the front valance (very small attachment points mean it keeps trying to slip until the glue dries) and a few minor issues with the front bumper. If you want a cheap (£16), not too complicated, kit and like the subject this one is well worth getting. It's also my first attempt with bare metal foil - I'm more impressed by the effect of the foil than I am with my execution but there's a few lessons were learned there for next time. Onto the photos, and I'll start with the glamour shot (i.e. probably the best one I managed to get of it). I like the way that this one came out That done, time for a quick tour around the car. It's was easier to see (and photograph) the engine before I fitted the bonnet in place, so this is probably the best pic I have of that: Meanwhile, the interior turned out to be easier to get a decent shot of than most of the models I've built for some reason. Unfortunately, it also turned out that for this picture I was shooting in full-on Dustarama (c) ! And finally, a shot to show how I've improved. I wanted to do this car for the Mustang challenge as my first car on returning to the hobby was the 2006 Hertz Mustang, so this means I have the pair now. It also gives me an excuse to put the two of them together. As ever, thanks for looking.
  2. Normally when I put up a WIP thread I start with a fully painted body because I actually started the car yonks before. This year, I decided to go through the body as it's done. And with warm weather last weekend I was able to get an quick layer of primer on this one, not to mention priming the chassis. The kit is Hasegawa's Jaguar XJS which was done a couple of years ago to an extremely high standard by Matt Bacon. I hope I can even halfway to that, although I don't feel I can face wiring up that V12. Initial impression of the kit is that it looks very detailed and hopefully high quality, although not without its flaws. And those flaws seem to be mainly in the manfacure - for example I can see flash on the chrome grille and the body has needed a bit of work. This is how it started (apart from a little bit of sanding before I thought to take the picture). Mould lines are quite pronounced, and I have no idea whose idea it was to run them down the crease between the rear wing and the flying buttresses - almost the perfect place to make them difficult to sand off. It also looks as though this is a kit which at some point in its life was the touring car version with various holes plugged up - the ones in the scuttle and boot are especially obvious. So after a quick sand of the worst seam lines I gave it a coat of white primer to help with identifying the areas which needed work, then filled the low parts, wiped the filler with a piece of card so it was lower, then left it for a week. Over the weekend I set about, scribing, filling where the tool slipped, sanding back, removing the seams and high points and ended up with this: Quite a scabby looking body, but I think I have it pretty much sorted. Ready for priming now anyway. And that leads me onto my first question... As the first picture shows, for some reason Hasegawa have chosen to mould it in a dark red. And going over it with that white primer has confirmed my suspicions that this is a colour which is going to bleed through if I don't stop it. Given that I'm not doing this as a red car, my question is "I've heard that silver paint can stop bleed though. Is this correct? And if so would a light metallic gray do the same job?" It'll be a long time before this gets finished (there's an SSR taking priority at the moment, and midway through I expect I'll be stopping the build for the Mustang Group Build), but with warmer weather I hope I can get some progress painting it for now. Apologies if this post looks as though I'm not impressed by the kit - I am but the body moulding is the most disappointing part of it so I can (hopefully) get the bad news out of the way at the start. Thanks for looking,
  3. Hi all, great to be part of a BM groupbuild again after almost a year. This time it's an ambitious punt - going to bring the Airfix 1/24 behemoth with an Aerocraft conversion set for an NF II based at Drem in 1945. It's KD127 which is quite well documented and beautifully built in smaller scale by @tonyot here: Luckily the aircraft was a brand new example and so my weathering skills (or lack thereof) will not be challenged! This will be an OOB build apart from the ignition cables and HF radio wire (there, I've said it now, so inevitably it'll end up with tons of added detail ) Will be starting this on Monday, hope everyone enjoys their Hellcat building Alan
  4. Guess I'd better declare mine here - seems that there's quite a few of these about so I'll leave out the box contents, but just to be clear this is the kit in question. Because I tend to build at a pace similar to a snail on spice this will be done straight out of the box. And as my first car build on returning to the hobby was the 2006 version, I absolutely have to build it in black with gold stripes to resemble it's cousin from four years ago (looking at the picture now I realise how much neater my more recent builds are under the camera!): But first, a small confession. Although I haven't started building anything yet, I have got some paint on the body as I tend to leave a couple of weeks between coats and could see that holding me up. It's just had the colour coat (pics at some stage over the weekend) so still decalling and clear coats to go. Hope that is ok as there is well under 25% of work done to date, but it's not a completely fresh build from 10th July.
  5. This was a nice, quick fun build. Nothing too stressful and the fit was mostly really good. A few issues that I found out right at the end was the ride height. Even after taking out the rear suspension springs the car sits too high on the back axle. The windscreen doesn't fit flush with the side windows but this can only be fixed if you take off the location pins but then you are left with two large holes on the bonnet. Basically I have left it as it is but it needs to be fixed before painting. A nice engine is included but the bonnet is either on or off. Some aftermarket bonnet hinges would have come in handy but in the end I just glued the bonnet on. I got complacent on my first coat and made a bit of a mess of it, very grainy. After sanding and repainting it came out much better,although not perfect, it doesn't now look like red sandpaper. It was a good lesson to treat my airbrush and paint with a bit of respect. Paints used. Tamiya LP21 and Mr Color 158. Both Italian Red and exactly the same shade. Interior Tamiya Rubber black with a coat of satin, which gives a nice leather look. All metallics Tamiya/Mr Hobby lacquers. Anyway, thanks for looking. I would recommend this kit. It builds into a nice model and there is plenty of scope for super detailing. Just keep your eyes on the back axle and windscreen. All the best.
  6. As soon as Motobitz released their transkit to convert the Tamiya Super 7 to a Caterham there was only one car I was going to make....Mine!! Haven't done that much, I'm only really posting because it makes my 3rd build on Britmodeller feel like it's officially started. I intend to make this as accurate as possible without becoming obsessive (this might come back to haunt me later ). Original nosecone Beginning of modifications Like my previous 2 builds here, thanks for looking, just don't expect it finished too soon - Andy
  7. Hi All, This is the second in my "Promise Made, promises fulfilled" project. I had this model over 30 years ago when it was first released. When I saw that Hasegawa had re-released it, I knew that I just had to get it. My memories of the first time was that it was a rather good model, with crisply moulded parts, and reasonably easy to build. My biggest mistake was to use automotive cellulose paints to paint it. The end result looked very good for about 6 months... Then it started to crack, and look rather shoddy. I removed the body from the floor pan, stripped the cellulose paint, can't remember with what, re-primed and sprayed it with enamels. However, that cellulose had attacked the plastic rather badly, even though I had primed it first. I could never get a good finish on it after that. Still, paints have moved on. I tend to use Zero paints these days and with care, they are much kinder to polystyrene. So, here we are so far: The obligatory box top. This kit comes with a finely detailed engine. Here are the first stages of the build. That's just eight parts to get to this stage, The fit is superb. I painted the block and cylinder heads with Tamiya XF-16, and the cam-covers with my own satin black concoction (One part Tamiya X-1, Two parts Tamiya XF-1 + three parts Mr Color levelling thinner). This seems to make a satin black that is easy to paint and with a finish not as glossy as X-18. I mix up about 25 mL and store in a glass bottle. This gives me enough to spray, if I need to, and it will brush paint well as well. One thig that I though looked a bit naff about the kit was the front disc brakes. For some reason, Hasegawa had moulded them on the 'chrome' tree. Some parts look right in high chrome, like the bumpers, and headlamps/tail lamps. But the front discs and callipers? I think not. This is what they looked like: A touch garish, I think. So out came the tub of caustic soda solution I keep in the garage, and I popped the offending items in it for about 50 minutes, and the result was: Completely stripped. They do seem to be coated in some kind of high-gloss varnish which the caustic soda won't touch, but the removal of the "chrome" seems to reveal more of the moulded detail. So, a quick priming with my 'grey primer' concoction followed by the right kind of colours, will make them more realistic, I think... That was where I stopped taking pictures, as I was making such good progress on the model. Anyway, this where I have got by early this morning... The sharper-eyed of you may have noticed that one of the air filter chambers is not yet fitted. That's because I forgot to cut it from the sprue and fix it on. For small parts, I tend to prime and paint them on the sprue then tidy them up on removal before attaching them to the assembly. This is nearly done. I'll show the images soon. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Alan.
  8. My first RFI post here after enjoying the work of others since last winter.. This is the Nunu Porsche 935 K3 along with the resin fender kit from Classic Racing Resins for chassis number 13, and the Indycal decals for the Coke sponsored Bob Akin team as driven at the 1981 Le Mans race. The car did not finish the race, but I've always liked the Coke livery so decided to build it to go along with my other mostly OOB Porsche race cars. The Nunu kit is a rebox of the Beemax kit, and it went together very well - on a par with pretty much anything car kits I've built from Tamiya, Fujimi, etc.. I also used the Nunu PE kit. Only fit issues I had were the PE protective mesh for the front mounted oil cooler which I couldn't get to look quite right, and strangely the steering rack was slightly too long giving the front wheels too much toe-in so I left it out rather than try and correct it. Paint is Tamiya rattlecan pure red (TS-86), polished with Novus, and then clear coated with Johnsons Pledge floor polish over the decals. I'm pretty pleased with the results but am always open to constructive feedback, and I proactively acknowledge that my photography needs some improvement for the next RFI.
  9. Having made a Norwegian Starfighter, Danish registered SAS Caravelle and Swedish Saab Draken for the previous Nordic GB, I decided it was time for a subject with a Finnish leaning and thought that this would be something different to my usual aircraft builds. It will also rekindle memories of time spent trudging along forest tracks on cold November days back in the 1970's to watch Scandinavian drivers teach us how to drive on the Special Stages of the Lombard RAC Rally. Anyway, here are the box and contents photos of my subject choice, but it will be a short while before I start the build because I have to finish a few others first. by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr Cheers. John
  10. The latest model I recently finished is the iconic Ford Mustang from 1964. In my opinion it looks cool and it’s the real embodiment of youth, freedom and the American life style of the sixties. I chose to build the convertible with the roof down. I just could dream of driving the car on the highway number one from San Francisco to San Diego enjoying the Pacific sea breeze. The introduction of the Mustang created a new class of automobile known as the pony car. The Mustang’s styling, with its long hood and short deck, proved wildly popular. It was initially introduced on April 17, 1964, as a hardtop and convertible with the fastback version put on sale in August 1964.Since it was introduced four months before the normal start of the 1965 production year the earliest Mustangs are widely referred to as the 1964½ model. I built the Mustang 1964 1/2 convertible from a ten year old Revell kit which perhaps wasn't their top notch.The details were scarce inside the car and the for instance the handles etc. were only vaguely molded on the side walls. The decals were very good, though. The fit of the parts was generally ok and there were no special problems apart from the windscreen and the side windows which are in one piece. Attaching the part tightly in the window frames was a pain in the neck. I painted the bodywork with Tamiya metallic blue spray, TS-19 and the light blue interior wiyh Humbrol 89. The seats I painted with Revell 04 white and the roof and the sun shields with Humbrol 41 Ivory white.
  11. This is my second foray into car building this year after a break of several decades. There's something about Mustangs (and companies who have sales on the interwebs ) that will do that to a man. As I'm way out of my comfort zone, this will be done as far as possible OOB, although having checked the list of paints required, there will have to be a couple of 'close enough' substitutions from stock or the paint bill will be more than the kit. I've cleared the deck of other projects for the time being so I can get on with this. First up the box. I like big box and I cannot lie: Inside are lots of finely moulded parts in various colours. Not sure about the chrome, but also not sure how many of them I actually need for this build - the car on the box has no obvious shiny bits. Must remember to put a protective layer betweent the wheels and those rubber tyres too: Instructions, painting guide and decals. The left hand scheme is for a car at Goodwood Festival of Speed so I'm going with that one. Right. Just got to build and paint it now. There's always something Andy
  12. Don't go expecting this one to be completed soon, I'm not expecting it to get started in earnest until early 2022 but with the British weather I figure I need to get this painted before it gets cold (and wetter). This one is the Aoshima kit which was rereleased a couple of years ago - I'm doing the rubber bumper variety as that's what was on the roads when I was a kit. The fad of returning them to chrome didn't start until I was much older. That is an option with this kit, as has been said many times it come with the chrome and rubber bumper parts, but I'm sticking with the unfashionable rubber bumper version. One thing I'm not sticking with though is the triple wiper setup the kit comes with - to me that just looks wrong. So I did a bit of googling and eventually found out where the holes should be for the two-wiper version. The good news is that the driver's side wiper doesn't move from where the kit has it so only had to drill a hole for the passenger side. And as the wiper holes are symmetrical, I could have used the kit to get the location but instead I did it the hard way by finding a drawing of where the hole should be in the real thing and scaling it down. If anyone is wondering, that dimension is 11mm (just under to be precise, but 11mm is close enough) and it just needs to sit the same distance from the windscreen as the other wipers. The hole for the middle wiper needed drilling out anyway, so all I had to do was fill the hole for the passenger wiper. With that filled, I gave it a coat of grey primer to identify any sink marks, mould lines etc. And the good news is that there are very few. I'm not sure how Aoshima did it, but the only mould-lines I could identify are on the front and rear valances and (annoyingly) within the headlight recesses. I did wonder if they'd followed the chome belt line, but if they did I can't see it even in primer. The photo should make it obvious where I sanded it down - there's very shallow sink marks on the passenger doors which is why they got a smear of filler. And the filled wiper hole sunk so has had a second fill, but I'm hoping that will sand smooth next weekend. And that's as far as I've got at the moment, unless you count a coat of primer on the chassis and the wheels. Expect somewhat slow and erratic progress on this until I get the Jag finished. Thanks for looking.
  13. Well as I'm away from work on holiday for a week I thought it's about time I throw my hat in the ring for this group build before the hosts start sending threatening emails I always loved the rally cars from my youth and added this to the stash a few years ago. I've also got the Tamiya version, but this one has only got 41 pieces, so shouldn't be an issue time wise. I've never built a Heller kit before, so what's the worse that can happen It's going to be OOB and I might even try the Tamiya laquer paint I've got to see if it's as good as everyone says Couple of pics before I cut stuff off the sprues and start priming Ian
  14. One of the nostalgic cars of my youth that I have wanted to build was the sleek and elegant Citroën DS 21. Ebbro did make kits of the DS 19 and DS 21 versions but they both have been discontinued and very difficult to find on the web. However, I was very lucky to find and order an Ebbro DS 21 kit from a shop in Cornwall. The Citroën DS / ID cars are front-engined, front-wheel drive executive cars manufactured from 1955 to 1975 in various different configurations. During those years Citroën built a total of 1,455,746 examples of this car type. They were the first mass production cars equipped with self-levelling hydropneumatic suspension and disc brakes. Citroën was also the first car manufacturer to introduce directional headlights to a mass-produced car. The name DS is actually a pun in the French language. "DS" is pronounced exactly like déésse, literally meaning 'goddess' The Ebbro kit was of excellent quality and I had no problems in assembling the model. There were a lot of detailed parts and nice features like the opening bonnet and front doors. The most special feature of the kit were the directional headlights. They are connected to the turning wheels and they really turned. The only complaints I have are about the instruction leaflet. It had a lot of ambiguities and omissions. Moreover, some of the parts were not at all marked in the leaflet. I chose dark brown or marron for the colour of the bodywork. The shade was as near as I could find to "bordeaux" that Citroën home pages gave for the respective colour. The following paints were used for the model. Tamiya TS-11 Marron - bodywork Revell 88 - Floor and upholstery Humbrol 62 - Leather seats Humbrol 85 - Black parts Humbrol 3 - Gloss green parts Tamiya X-26 Clear orange - turn signals Tamiya X-27 Clear red - brake lights In all, the Ebbro kit was really a pleasure to build. Its quality was easily on the level of Tamiya car kits. The beauty and the beast of Citroën, The 2CV and DS 21
  15. Hi all, spotted this on Facebook, Sywell Aviation Museum are auctioning a 1/24 Hertiage models Lancaster on their Facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/205252919603570/posts/4013140875481403/ It must be an incredibly rare kit and it's for an aviaiton museum - you'll need a lot of space and deep pockets though! Ben
  16. Hi folks, This is my first dinosaur since I was little, I think, when I have fuzzy memories of painting Airfix dinosaurs with enamels? I picked up the Lindberg "spitter" Dilophosaurus on a trip a couple of weeks ago at a bargain price and built it pretty much straight away. It's a simple kit with nice surface details. The seams close up pretty well and most of the construction work is in restoring or sculpting lost detail across the seams and where the mould horizons mean a lack of relief. I painted it with Tamiya rattle cans decanted and airbrushed - the main colours are Medium Blue and Dark Earth from the AS range (I think?) and Chrome Oxide Yellow from the TS range. After airbrushing a basic pattern I did a lot of work with a paintbrush to refine it, both sharpening and breaking up the colour transitions. Lots of drybrushing, washes and glazes of acrylics helped define and tone the skin, and I sprayed some thin blotchy filters with Smoke, Clear Green and Clear Red before varnishing. While I did pick out some scales individually on the body, I mostly left that kind of fiddly work for the face which was more-or-less entirely repainted by brush over the airbrushed base. I made a base by sanding a slight profile into the upturned base of a fancy hipster table salt bowl and building a little relief on the top with scraps of torn up foamcard before adding stones, dried twigs and textured putty to create damp ground. Again I painted this up with acrylics and applied "moss" putty mixed from Woodland Scenics ground foam plus various kinds of foliage (Silflor, Heki, Kamizukuri) fixed with matt medium. The dino itself is pinned in place with scraps of 1/16" brass rod as I thought that paperclips weren't substantial enough at this scale. I had a scare when the tail seam cracked open on one side (not sure why) but the join was so exact that it vanished when closed up with thin CA and varnished Overall a fun little project and not bad at under two weeks from shop shelf to my cabinet shelf! Thanks for the various suggestions on the WIP thread and sorry I chickened out (ha!) from adding feathers. Cheers, Will
  17. Long, long ago, well 1974, I bought the 1/24 Airfix Harrier kit when it appeared, Inspired by a conversion article by Alan Hall and Mike Keep, "Updating the Harrier" on pages 118 to 123 of a magazine I no longer seem to have, I started work. As with may kits I purchased when at Brunel my modelling went into hibernation when i started work in 1975 and then found a wife in 1977...and bought a house...then Airfix in 1997 issued big Harrier as the GR3. My conversion continued its hibernation. Time passed and I thought that it would be a good project to finish, so earlier this year I painted the body and started the last stages, painting and final assembly. I acquired a sent of the Airfix decal sheet for the GR3 I'm going to finish it as one from 56 Squadron with the multi coloured fin from 4 Squadron, RAF Gutersloh. Why? Because in 1968 I went, with Esher ATC, to RAF Camp at Gutersloh, Germany. Long story, here it is, the fin ready in black. It still needs some additional painting. I used vintage Humbrol paints HX1 and HX2 from the NATO paint range. They are slightly glossy and cover well, using a brush. Getting the overall camouflage pattern to join up was "interesting" ! The next stage is to spray with gloss acrylic, then apply decals, and finally attach the underwing stuff, outrigger legs and so on. I'm building this in parallel with the Hurricane and Typhoon, previously mentioned.
  18. Some time ago I decided to build Revell's VW 1500 in 1/24 scale. The nostalgic Beetle (the Finnish nickname is " the Bubble") is for me one of the most important cars I have experienced. It was the first car my dad owned, a light green 1959 Beetle in which we used to travel across Finland and the Nordic countries. At the age of eighteen I did my driving school and passed the driving exam in a Beetle. For many years thereafter I used to borrow the new Beetle of my dad. The Revell kit was of very good quality and easy to build. It contained a lot of details, the fit was excellent, the decals were good and all in all the kit was a pleasure to build. I chose to paint the bodywork of the car with Tamiya light blue spray, TS-23. In my opinion that colour suited the Beetle very well and looked quite authentic to my eyes. For the smaller details and the parts inside I used Humbrol enamels and Vallejo acrylics.
  19. This is my model of the Fiat 500F (aka FIAT Bambino). I built the cute looking Cinquecento from a 25 years old but excellent Tamiya 1/24 scale kit. The body was painted with Tamiya rattle-can yellow TS-16. I also used Vallejo acrylics and Humbrol enamels to smaller details. The Fiat 500F was a very popular small city car. It had an air cooled, two cylinder 13 hp engine giving a top speed of 85 kmh. Its length was only 3 metres. Some 3,6 million 500F's were built between 1957-1975.
  20. Here is my Bf109E - Northern France 1941. Pretty happy with the result although with the benefit of hindsight I could have rescribed the panel lines and got the fuselage join tidier. The poor fitting engine cowlings also drove me mad so I just glued and filled in the end... It's my third build since a very lengthy hobby gap - it's a 1:72 Phantom II next. Cheers Sean
  21. Being a London fan I just couldn’t resist the 1/24 scale Revell kit of the London double decker or AEC Routemaster. The model depicts the longer RML type of the bus with an additional small window in the centre of the bus. That increased the capacity of the bus by eight seats. This kit is perhaps the biggest construction project I've so far embarked upon. The fit of the parts and decals were very good but it took a suprisingly long time to finish the double decker due to the big number of parts and the multiple sub-assemblies inside the bus (the chassis, the engine, the bodywork, the driver's compartment, the the lower floor, the stairs, the upper floor, the multiple seats, the windows, etc). In the assembly I only had to follow the good old elephant eating technique or "bite by bite" I painted the red parts of the bus with Tamiya Italian red TS-8 and used Humbrol and Vallejo colours for the other parts. To the last picture I added the 1/24 scale Revell London taxi but I must honestly say that the quality of that kit was quite poor. In addition, according to some comments on the net the size of the model is actually 1/22! Anyway, that picture shows the two most famous vehicles of my favourite city.
  22. To run alongside the Miniart tram build (and give me a break from the intensity) I’ve started this 1955 Paris police car (99 parts compared to 810 in the tram) Ive made a start with the engine So far I’ve added a few additional details to the kit offering - it’s almost ready for some paint before adding the final kit parts and a bit more detailing ive also made a start on the bodywork by cleaning the shell up and rectifying the the glaring error with the rear window (way to small on the kit for the police version) Think I’ll finish the engine then back to the tram for a bit
  23. I am on a bit of a 1/24 trip at the moment, but this one is out of my comfort zone because it's made of plastic! So I'm prepared for things being a bit clunky and soft, but I have MANY resin delights in the stash, so we'll see how long it takes before I'm missing the smell of polyester. Anyway I had wanted to do an R10 for a while, and though Le Mans Miniatures does a really beauty in resin, it doesn't have an engine and I kind of wanted to have that option. The Revell kit hasn't been out that long, and in fact is due a reissue sometime, but for now these kits are going for daft money. Luckily enough, I followed a few on TheBay and spotted one in France which looked like it had been started and maybe missing a few bits. So it cost £20-ish but seems to be complete and with only the parts cut off the sprues and nothing glued or painted. Result. Here is the box and the bits: So it's more 'Tamiya' than 'MFH', but I think it will build OK. The decals look like Cartograf and include some nice CFRP elements too. The car is a 2006 Le Mans car, which is a fairly plain scheme (all photos mine unless stated): The 2007/2008 scheme is better - this is the Le Mans winner: The plan is to do an ALMS car however, and thankfully the Studio 27 decal sheet is still available: But the Studio 27 sheet gives you the impression that you just add decals to the Revell Le Mans car to make an ALMS version. Sadly it's not so. The ALMS cars featured dive planes and prominent wheel arch louvres (photo below via Audi Sport), so they will need to be included in the build. There is a resin conversion set out there, but it's long OOP and one store in Singapore still shows it in stock despite them confirming they have none! Anyway, those bits will need to be made (circled below) More in a bit. I think I'll be doing Tom Kristensen's 2007 Sebring car, because it's TK's car after all!
  24. Hi everyone I just wanted to share my thoughts and progress using the Cricut Explorer Air 2. I received my Cricut last Wednesday, my wife brought it for me for my 50th birthday (thank you Leanne). Now I'm a bit of a luddite when it comes to technology and I'm incredibly lazy I just want things to work with out any messing around but to my surprise the Cricut is very easy to use and I think the masks that you can make are as good as any commercially produced items. I started by looking for any additional software that you might need to use for designing and producing masks, the Cricut software is ok but almost every user I could find recommended using Adobe illustrator so I duly subscribed to Adobe (£19 pcm) down loaded the software and had a play. I started by producing a series of RAF roundels circa 1939 - 45, I found several references online that gave the size of each roundel type in inches so I found an online conversion tool and converted these measurement's to cm and drew them in illustrator to 1/48 scale. I then sent the image to the Cricut software and cut my first mask a Type A.1 roundel in 1/48 scale. I used some white vinyl which has proved to be very hard to remove because its too tacky and it lifted the paint. I had another go, this time creating a mask for a 56 in, 28 in, 21 in upper wing roundel again in 1/48 and sprayed that (see both roundels below) Not too bad I think I could be onto something here? I then decided to create some templates for RAF fonts circa 1939 - 45 again a search of the internet threw up some examples so using these a place to start I produced my own set of fonts again in illustrator.. ..for my next test I scaled my drawings to 1/32 and created some more masks this time using Frisk film as the masking medium and this time sprayed my 1/32 Fly Hurricane paint mule again applying a Type A.1 fuselage roundel and code letters.. I think with a little more practice the Cricut will prove its worth enabling me to produce any set of codes, markings, camouflage, wheel and canopy masks. I think the Cricut is a great bit of kit, not cheap (my wife paid £260 for mine) but I'm the kind of person that will spend a small fortune on after market masks so I think that for my it will cost effective in the long run plus its quite enjoyable researching and making the masking templates. Cheers all Iain
  25. Hi All, I don't seem to to have created a thread for this one, so I decided to do it now: This is the exquisite Tamiya Ford GT model: So far, I have assembled the main parts of the body, and this is where I have got so far: I have to share my work-space with various stored items not immediately needed... The fit of the body was superb, with join lines matching the panel lines on the real thing as far as I can tell. I have done more than this, but I have no photos yet. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Alan.
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