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  1. Finally finished! I started this a good while ago, took a break and then had to find all the bits (in four separate boxes!) to finish it. The kit is Revell's 1/24 Audi R10, which comes with decals for Le Mans cars. However I wanted to do an American Le Mans Series (ALMS) entrant, so it needed new decals (Studio 27) and a few mods, mainly to replace the flush front wings with the heavily-louvred items seen on the ALMS cars. Then the engine and bay were detailed, as was the cockpit, plus double dive planes on the nose, scratch-built headlights and wheels from Le Mans Miniatures. I think that's about it. RFI (ish) is here: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235093097-revell-audi-r10-alms-2007/ This is the engine as built from the kit - it's OK as a starting point, but missing some key components. Also the gearbox is a bit notional:
  2. So my second entry for the GB and I'm finally building something other than an aircraft this year! Hopefully suitably big and British - 7 litre, V12, 720HP monster, 4.8 metres long and loud as hell. I prefer the look of the open rear wheel Le-Mans version but this is what I have in the stash and I'm going to build it OOB. I'll be adding the cancer stick logos for historical accuracy (I think they come supplied in the kit) - hopefully I'm OK posting those logos/pics on BM? Build to start / sprue shots / etc. once I get the two tiny MiGs off the workbench!
  3. I'm really not sure what made me buy this one to be honest. I'm not a huge VW van fan so I can only presume that I had an idea it would be fun to take onh the challenge of a multi-part body. Then I got it, saw that it's going to be a bear to spray and had second thoughts. But, all challenges must be faced and it's time to face this one. First thing to note is that I am just following the box art van, so it is being done in the Jagermeister green and orange colour scheme. The alternative plain blue scheme would be much easier to paint, but this kit comes with a lot of nice looking decals and it would be a shame to waste them. I got a bit of a start during autumn last year with some Halfords satin black on the underbody, then it was a case of masking off to get the engine bay done in the same Tamiya British Green as the body. Aftr that I gave the dark green a clear coat with Humbrol Gloss Clear Varnish... which went well - I hadn't appreciated quite how sensitive this stuff is to temperature and especially humidity so suffered an attack of blooming on the wheel arches in particular: Fortunately another coat on a better day significantly reduced the bloom and it should be acceptable now, especially as it will be hidden in the engine bay. The other bit of work I tried at the end of last year was filling in the VW badge recess on the front. For that I used the Vallejo white filler which seems to suffer from severe shrinkage, even worse if you try and wet sand it. This was after the second fill, a third fill still didn't sort things out as it continued to shrink back over winter. Following Jeroen's advice I got some Humbrol grey filler which appears to have worked much better, it hasn't had any primer on it yet so that will be the acid test I guess. Fast forwarding to this year and I finally got the main body parts off the sprue so thought I'd have a rough build to see how it looks. I will definitely need to drill out the holes in the roof and/or scrape paint of the pegs, but overall impressions are that this may well go together better than initially feared. This is far and away the worst angle (which could be improved very easily with some masking tape holding things together better) so I'm cautiously optimistic. So that's the introduction. I have a feeling this one is going to be a bit of a long haul, but the good weather at the weekend meant I got some important early bits primed so it felt like a bit of momentum was coming back into this, although obviously I will have a certain brown sports car to finish first
  4. As soon as Motobitz released their transkit to convert the Tamiya Super 7 to a Caterham there was only one car I was going to make....Mine!! Haven't done that much, I'm only really posting because it makes my 3rd build on Britmodeller feel like it's officially started. I intend to make this as accurate as possible without becoming obsessive (this might come back to haunt me later ). Original nosecone Beginning of modifications Like my previous 2 builds here, thanks for looking, just don't expect it finished too soon - Andy
  5. I'm joining in with this one if you'll have me It should be a fairly easy build and hopefully I can get it done by the deadline I'll probably go with the all over BRS red scheme as I have the paint for it, but not the blood and custard for the BR one as on the box It was new and unstarted and I've just glued the engine and chassis together last night ready for painting More pics later hopefully Ian
  6. I am on a bit of a 1/24 trip at the moment, but this one is out of my comfort zone because it's made of plastic! So I'm prepared for things being a bit clunky and soft, but I have MANY resin delights in the stash, so we'll see how long it takes before I'm missing the smell of polyester. Anyway I had wanted to do an R10 for a while, and though Le Mans Miniatures does a really beauty in resin, it doesn't have an engine and I kind of wanted to have that option. The Revell kit hasn't been out that long, and in fact is due a reissue sometime, but for now these kits are going for daft money. Luckily enough, I followed a few on TheBay and spotted one in France which looked like it had been started and maybe missing a few bits. So it cost £20-ish but seems to be complete and with only the parts cut off the sprues and nothing glued or painted. Result. Here is the box and the bits: So it's more 'Tamiya' than 'MFH', but I think it will build OK. The decals look like Cartograf and include some nice CFRP elements too. The car is a 2006 Le Mans car, which is a fairly plain scheme (all photos mine unless stated): The 2007/2008 scheme is better - this is the Le Mans winner: The plan is to do an ALMS car however, and thankfully the Studio 27 decal sheet is still available: But the Studio 27 sheet gives you the impression that you just add decals to the Revell Le Mans car to make an ALMS version. Sadly it's not so. The ALMS cars featured dive planes and prominent wheel arch louvres (photo below via Audi Sport), so they will need to be included in the build. There is a resin conversion set out there, but it's long OOP and one store in Singapore still shows it in stock despite them confirming they have none! Anyway, those bits will need to be made (circled below) More in a bit. I think I'll be doing Tom Kristensen's 2007 Sebring car, because it's TK's car after all!
  7. I bought this for a fiver from someone who'd done most of the build. Without knowing their vision, I merely finished it off. One of the few Airfix 1/24 kits I'd not built before, it was a challenge that should stand me in good stead when I build another. Without any further ado... XV788 Flying Officer Paul Meade No.1453 Flight, Port Stanley, Royal Air Force, Falkland Islands, 1984.
  8. This is the MFH 1/24 Ferrari 488 GTE of Clearwater Racing, Le Mans 2017. I saw this car at the 2017 Silverstone WEC round and loved the colour scheme. Though I am also a fan of the Risi and JMW schemes, when MFH released this version, it was a done deal. It's a resin body/white metal details curbside kit but still has a LOT of detail, right down to individual PE panel fasteners and bonnet latches. Paint is Zero Paints' Clearwater Racing set. And the sun came out!
  9. Hello, Straying a bit outside my comfort zone here, with something that isn't mud green, mud yellow or grey. A couple of days back, I felt the need to build a kit that was a little different (for me), and wandered into an LMS, and took a look at what was on their shelves. The thing that caught my eye was this: A Revell boxing of an ICM Model T Roadster essentially a two seat Ford Model T. Sprue shots: The main sprues Think the sprue on the right is unique to this kit, the other two look fairly standard. Again, standard sprues. Separate wheels (presumably in case somebody wants to offer wire wheels?), white vinyl tyres, and a sprue that could have been brass plated, but, fortunately, isn't. And a clear plastic sprue Construction has started, with some key assemblies These need filling and checking but are, otherwise, ready for painting. Revell suggest that the engine should be aluminium, but modern photos of similar, preserved, machines have black engines, with post WWI versions having dark green engines. Dry fitted Afterthought This may not be quite so far from my usual builds as I thought: I have built a Model T chassis before, but then it was a 1/48 scale Soviet AA truck- basically a green camouflaged, 1940s era, licence built, 4x2 Ford Model T lorry.
  10. Hi All, This is the second in my "Promise Made, promises fulfilled" project. I had this model over 30 years ago when it was first released. When I saw that Hasegawa had re-released it, I knew that I just had to get it. My memories of the first time was that it was a rather good model, with crisply moulded parts, and reasonably easy to build. My biggest mistake was to use automotive cellulose paints to paint it. The end result looked very good for about 6 months... Then it started to crack, and look rather shoddy. I removed the body from the floor pan, stripped the cellulose paint, can't remember with what, re-primed and sprayed it with enamels. However, that cellulose had attacked the plastic rather badly, even though I had primed it first. I could never get a good finish on it after that. Still, paints have moved on. I tend to use Zero paints these days and with care, they are much kinder to polystyrene. So, here we are so far: The obligatory box top. This kit comes with a finely detailed engine. Here are the first stages of the build. That's just eight parts to get to this stage, The fit is superb. I painted the block and cylinder heads with Tamiya XF-16, and the cam-covers with my own satin black concoction (One part Tamiya X-1, Two parts Tamiya XF-1 + three parts Mr Color levelling thinner). This seems to make a satin black that is easy to paint and with a finish not as glossy as X-18. I mix up about 25 mL and store in a glass bottle. This gives me enough to spray, if I need to, and it will brush paint well as well. One thig that I though looked a bit naff about the kit was the front disc brakes. For some reason, Hasegawa had moulded them on the 'chrome' tree. Some parts look right in high chrome, like the bumpers, and headlamps/tail lamps. But the front discs and callipers? I think not. This is what they looked like: A touch garish, I think. So out came the tub of caustic soda solution I keep in the garage, and I popped the offending items in it for about 50 minutes, and the result was: Completely stripped. They do seem to be coated in some kind of high-gloss varnish which the caustic soda won't touch, but the removal of the "chrome" seems to reveal more of the moulded detail. So, a quick priming with my 'grey primer' concoction followed by the right kind of colours, will make them more realistic, I think... That was where I stopped taking pictures, as I was making such good progress on the model. Anyway, this where I have got by early this morning... The sharper-eyed of you may have noticed that one of the air filter chambers is not yet fitted. That's because I forgot to cut it from the sprue and fix it on. For small parts, I tend to prime and paint them on the sprue then tidy them up on removal before attaching them to the assembly. This is nearly done. I'll show the images soon. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Alan.
  11. Don't go expecting this one to be completed soon, I'm not expecting it to get started in earnest until early 2022 but with the British weather I figure I need to get this painted before it gets cold (and wetter). This one is the Aoshima kit which was rereleased a couple of years ago - I'm doing the rubber bumper variety as that's what was on the roads when I was a kit. The fad of returning them to chrome didn't start until I was much older. That is an option with this kit, as has been said many times it come with the chrome and rubber bumper parts, but I'm sticking with the unfashionable rubber bumper version. One thing I'm not sticking with though is the triple wiper setup the kit comes with - to me that just looks wrong. So I did a bit of googling and eventually found out where the holes should be for the two-wiper version. The good news is that the driver's side wiper doesn't move from where the kit has it so only had to drill a hole for the passenger side. And as the wiper holes are symmetrical, I could have used the kit to get the location but instead I did it the hard way by finding a drawing of where the hole should be in the real thing and scaling it down. If anyone is wondering, that dimension is 11mm (just under to be precise, but 11mm is close enough) and it just needs to sit the same distance from the windscreen as the other wipers. The hole for the middle wiper needed drilling out anyway, so all I had to do was fill the hole for the passenger wiper. With that filled, I gave it a coat of grey primer to identify any sink marks, mould lines etc. And the good news is that there are very few. I'm not sure how Aoshima did it, but the only mould-lines I could identify are on the front and rear valances and (annoyingly) within the headlight recesses. I did wonder if they'd followed the chome belt line, but if they did I can't see it even in primer. The photo should make it obvious where I sanded it down - there's very shallow sink marks on the passenger doors which is why they got a smear of filler. And the filled wiper hole sunk so has had a second fill, but I'm hoping that will sand smooth next weekend. And that's as far as I've got at the moment, unless you count a coat of primer on the chassis and the wheels. Expect somewhat slow and erratic progress on this until I get the Jag finished. Thanks for looking.
  12. Hi everyone, I'm not sure if I should be posting this topic here or in the Cold War section, so please indulge me a little if you feel I have posted it im the wrong place. I am looking for decals in 1/72, 1/32 and 1/24 for early Indian Air Force roundels, notably, the 'chakra' symbol of a blue spinning wheel on a white circle as seen in the centre of the Indian tricolour. Does anyone know of any decals out there that fit th bill? Cheers, and thank you all very much for any help and for taking the time to read this thread, Viv
  13. Well model builders, giving a go at converting an Italeri BJ44 to an FJ45 Land Cruiser: The FJ 45, on the left seems to be ubiquitous around the world, but less commonly seen in the US - they are considered something of a treasured find if you come across one of them. Italeri makes a 1/24 kit of the BJ 44, which is also commonly seen, but also, less so in the US. I like pickups, so am going to convert the BJ to an FJ. This will also include a complete rebuild of suspension, axles, engine swap and so on. First steps, comparing the two in a diagram: You can see the most obvious difference being one has a covered area in the back and the other (what I am building) is a pickup. An important feature of both tho, is the rear, wrap around corner windows - thereby eliminating the idea of "just" cutting off the unnecessary roof behind the cab, and instead, cutting off the roof over the cab, and cutting and reusing the rear portion of the roof and back doors: I've got to say, I use Tamyia tape for so many things in addition to masking - among them, setting guidelines for cutting! Embarrassed to say, keeping these cuts on the straight and narrow - more of a task than a guy expected - they're mostly straight lines along flat surfaces - maybe too much coffee that day! When all was said, puttied, sanded, and so on, the cab turned out fine - barely discernable splice! The Italeri kit doesn't have too many parts - at all. The floor pan, truck bed, bottom of the engine, and chassis are all molded in one piece - not what I'm looking for. Rather than fret, a quick trip to the junkbox, and a replacement frame was found. Feeling full of confidence, I cut apart the cab floor, filled some gaps, added the rear facing corner edges (cut from the rear of the kit provided part), added a firewall, and thought we're good to go! As part of my ongoing effort to create my own heavy duty Dana 60 axles, back to the junk box I went - finding idlers from a Bradley and various bits to make up the diff cap, and pinion, then evergreen and alu tube inserts. Had a nearly built engine on hand, which is fine - as the hood won't be openable, but you will be able to see the side of the block and headers between the chassis and fenders, so I need something, and a small block Chevy is a fairly common conversion - funny bit of info, the small block Chevy is lighter than the Toyota I6 - how about that? The Toyota engine BTW is a great runner - I just like adding the V8 Then began trying to get the body to sit correctly on my donor chassis. Problem number one is that the area of the chassis beneath the cab isn't flat - and the base of the cab is - easy enough to fix, but would require some thought - then, I noticed - the FJ and BJ trucks share a similar body mound, below the center of the grill - note the pic in the upper right with the red circle - and that brutal gap..... How would that get resolved??? Well - a different donor chassis was selected, and a piece of the Italeri part was cut up and modified: As you can see in the left, this was not a pretty job. The Italeri kit part (uni chassis/floor pan) was pretty chunky and not at all realistic. I cut everything in front of the floor pan off, and happily, kept the remnant part handy. I cut the cast in-place, bottom of a motor, out and separated what looks like a chassis from the "flat" front part. Then went about splicing the cut up Italeri part to the other chassis. I didn't take pics of all of this - the process included adding several segments of thick fill material to make what looked like a really big, blocky chassis. Once the glue was set up, went back and cut off all the blocky parts and began filing, shaping, and sanding until it looked something more like a credible chassis. Unhappily, the Italeri kit - does not include a transfer case! annoying - instead, the kit would have you insert the drive shafts into opposing ends of a skid plate. The kit isn't bad at all, but the level of detail/parts count, might suggest it's aimed at newer model builders, which is great - wish I'd have found this years ago! But now, well, I want to build in more detail. So, I'm going to make up a NP 208 or 205 transfer case facsimile to suit my project, will add a doubler, and attach it all to the transmission. I will eventually make a skid plate below the transfer case, but mine will be made from thick styrene rod to represent steel tubing, not adapting the kit part. The next tasks will include narrowing the rear part of the chassis, and making the front axle. From there will being locating and marking the axle centerlines relative to the chassis and fender openings. This will ride on front and rear four link suspension so we have a long way to go. Thanks for having a look, and on we go - Cheers Nick
  14. Hi all, I’ve had another silly idea pop into my head! How can I get a Seafire III from Airfix’s 1/24 Spitfire IX? I’ve made my best guess at everything I’d need · Mk V nose/cowl · Modified cannon panels (including removal of the 50cal stub) · Scribed wing fold lines · Removal of the second underwing radiator, to be replaced with an oil cooler · Fuselage strengthening plates and lifting points · A-Frame arrestor hook Aside from that, I believe everything else is in the kit to make a Seafire III, specifically the 4 blade prop, 6 stub exhaust, later elevators and later armoured windscreen. I’m sure I must be missing something – it would also be nice if there was a conversion for the nose at least! Cheers Ben
  15. My newest project is a bit different, maybe not. I have had a 1/24 UH-1B Huey lying around for a few years(bought back when it was $34). I was looking online at forget what, just going further down the rabbit hole. I come across an art project made from an actual UH-1D called Take Me Home Huey. https://takemehomehuey.org/ I'm not American, well I understand my original dad was, but he died before I was born and mum don't talk about it so I don't really know. I have some strange draw to the Vietnam war, I don't know what it is, maybe because I was born a little after the official end of it. Perhaps it's because I grew up hearing about it. Anyway I did want to try to make a D-model from this kit. Turns out it's a bit more than I had hoped. Also there is no conversions for it. I also had the idea to put this on a semi trailer as a fresh restoration or derelict. I also thought of making it a Canadian CH-118 Iroquois. It's a good kit for a 1969 design. This will have the trailer and the Freightliner. I dug around online for whatever pictures of this one and side profile views. I found a couple of ok pictures and some rough when enlarged drawings and did my best to make them 1/24 for a pattern. I made the first mistake of cutting the fuselage in half through the door to lengthen it. Turns out, the door opening is longer and the rear of the fuselage up to the tailboom is moved back and reshaped. The belly is also deeper, the cowling is quite different from the tailpipe shroud forward. I decided to make a rib structure much like a wooden airplane or house walls and then sheet them. After I thought I could have glued on a block of wood and took a belt sander to it. I cut the tail boom off to make it easier to finish the rear joint area without damaging the tail. The floor was started but will be replaced with new sheet plastic. I don't know how yet to remake the texture on the floor. I'll let the first pictures speak for themselves. I have a couple of ideas for reproducing the decals. The real one is a wrap. I've been in touch with the Huey group but I'm still waiting for certain pictures, namely the roof I need, because it's so tall, no one gets that shot but I need it. I'm not sure if it will be 100% accurate when done, but it'll be very close. It is a big model, about 20" just for the fuselage.
  16. I did some scratch building on this all over as it was a very basic kit.
  17. I really liked building the 1/32 Fokker Dr.1 Triplane, so why not give the 1/24 a go? So far I really like the kit. Excellent fit, good engineering and good mouldings. No flash, no sink marks. Here are some pictures for you. First, this is how I paint leather. Primed with a light tan base, then a dark oil colour applied with a sponge. The stark contrast will be toned down with the subsequent layer of, in this case, quite heavily thinned uniform brown. The final result. I wanted it to be pretty pristine and not worn. For a worn look you go easier on the last coat of paint. Here's the cockpit, as you can see. I read that the seat belts are very fiddly, and they are, but not that taxing. The glue on the back is a bit annoying, as it sticks to the tweezers more than it sticks to the places it should stick to. But the result is very convincing, me thinks. This is quite a fast build, so I got around to the engine as well. I like the colour of copper, and saw a picture on the internet where some parts (I have no idea whatsoever what they are called) were made of copper, so that's what I opted for. Here are some of the separate parts, with a light weathering with fresh motor oil. The wires to the spark plugs are made of copper wire. And put together, front ... ... and back. Just a little putty needed on the dorsal side of the fuselage. And as a preparation for the rigging I had to make some turnbuckles. I was sure I had some in my stash, but obviously not. I think these turned (pun not intended) out well. That's copper wire and heat stretched plastic tubes. You can do it with stretched Q tips, but the environmental friendly ones are now made of paper (and that's a good thing!). Here they are assembled on the tail fin and the struts. I also try a new way of doing the rigging. It's always very fiddly to attach the rigging when everything is in place, and I've never quite come to terms with EZ Line. If you make a mistake they are very unforgiving. When in contact with CA glue they often curl, and it's hard to get a good stretch. And when the glue doesn't set properly ... you have to start over. So for this project I use fishing line painted black with a permanent marker. This is the upper wing before painting. The line will probably get stuck in the paint, but I'll get to that hurdle soon enough. Hopefully I'll be able to do some serious airbrushing in the next couple of days. Stay healthy! Get the vaccine if you haven't already, so you can keep on modelling. /Torbjörn
  18. Hi all, I have made the leap to diversify from my usual 1/35 armour builds to try a ww2 plane kit. If I only ever build 1 plane kit, I want to do a big one, and something less common......so I ordered Trumpeter's 1/24 Spitfire Mk V float plane for myself for Xmas. I have found some amazing references and history (which led me to buy the kit), but after reading some reviews of the kit one of the biggest flaws is the seat. After some browsing it seems that finding an "in stock" replacement isn't that easy. I guess with technology someone may 3d print one (beyond me) ?? Does anyone know of a replacement seat?
  19. So to give @nimrod54 's rally build some company in the GB I'm going with this Tamiya kit but modified with some aftermarket Studio27 decals (for the 1995 Swedish Rally), this particular car (17) was driven by a couple of Finns: Grönholm Marcus and Silander Voitto, however it had to retire due to gearbox issues. Plenty of Celica's did finish however - the newer 205 model (round headlights) coming in 3rd, 4th, 5th and 9th, another of this model (185 with the pop-up lights) coming in 8th. Pretty good year for Toyota you might think, however this is the season they got caught out for being naughty using illegal turbo restrictors on the new model so got a year ban for 96 and Kankkunen, Auriol and Schwarz (that's the 3rd, 4th and 9th wins in Sweden) were stripped of points in the championship in 95. The reason I went for these decals is the main sponsorship (Castrol) pattern swishes are identical to the Tamiya kit (1993 Monte Carlo) so I'll have some backups if it all goes horribly wrong when trying to get them to conform around the very curvatious body! I've also got some Reji Model snow wheels and tyres, since the kit supplied ones are rather wide looking slicks. I think I've also got some window masks somewhere for this kit, if I can dig them out. Parts shots, etc. once I get around to starting it.
  20. After the highly detailed S4 to the really basic Stratos I didn't realise how bad and basic Italeri kits were, but then it's an original 70s kit, so things have moved on I suppose, it doesn't even come with windows for the doors, which I thought was odd The bodyshell isn't too bad even though it took a lot of filling and scraping to get it half decent. It also fits way too far forward on the chassis so had to be modified to make the wheels central to the arches. I also thought I'd go away from the usual Alitalia decals and with the Chardonnet instead
  21. Having made a Norwegian Starfighter, Danish registered SAS Caravelle and Swedish Saab Draken for the previous Nordic GB, I decided it was time for a subject with a Finnish leaning and thought that this would be something different to my usual aircraft builds. It will also rekindle memories of time spent trudging along forest tracks on cold November days back in the 1970's to watch Scandinavian drivers teach us how to drive on the Special Stages of the Lombard RAC Rally. Anyway, here are the box and contents photos of my subject choice, but it will be a short while before I start the build because I have to finish a few others first. by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr Cheers. John
  22. It's 10 months since I started this so quite a long winded build. But to start the new year I managed to finish this one. If you want to see the build thread it's the link below. All comments and constructive criticism are welcomed, I'm still on the learning path in many respects so always good to be aware of other ways I can improve. This is the first Hasegawa kit I've built, and the design of it is impressive with lots of detail and everything fitting together well apart from one piece which got bent between the factory and me. If you like the Jag XJS then I would definitely recommend this one. The only issues I had with it were to do with the age of the kit which let to quite a few mould lines and flash on some of the sprues, in particular the chrome sprue which was a tad annoying. And the body in particular has more than its fair share of sink marks, almost certainly down to it having been used for the racing version too with patches in the boot and windscreen scuttle being especially prominent. The only other minor quibble was the attachment for the steering arm to the suspension was a bit loose and kept jumping off, but a small piece of cotton acting as a retainer sorted that out. My build is in no way perfect (particularly at the back), but I hope you'll agree that it's one of my better efforts. Maybe next time I'll have learned a few extra bits and get one step closer to perfection, but overall I'm pleased with how this one turned out. It's only the second car I've used Bare Metal Foil on and there's quite a bit so it certainly gave me practice. For the colours, I followed the instructions for that lovely Jaguary creamy interior, but totally ignored the red or grey options in the instructions instead using Tamiya Deep Metallic Blue. Have to say that I really like this colour and there is another car in the stash which I've earmarked for the colour too. But I'm sure you didn't open this thread for a wall of text, so onto the photos. Maybe too many photos, but the XJ-S is a surprisingly photogenic car Starting with a fairly bland shot, the top down one. If nothing else, it shows how those bumpers which look so massive in the build look much more in proportion when it's built. After that, time for the obligatory tour around the car: Next up, a few detail shots. First of all the wheels, these were a lot more work than they look so I'm putting a pic in just for that. Also, the angle and colour combine to scream Jaguar (at least to me). Next up the engine. The whole kit has been built straight out of the box (what you see here is what Hasegawa gives you) so it probably doesn't give the full viper's nest look of the real thing as I didn't fancy wiring it up. And if you can see through all the dust which magically appeared, this was the best shot I got of the interior. If you're desperate to see the interior of a model of an XJ-S I do have better pics in the WIP thread! Another plus of this colour is that it does look stunning when the sun hits it. This pic doesn't do that justice but I hope it gives an idea of what I mean. After all that, I decided to have a play around with the camera for a few more 'artistic' shots. For the past few RFI threads I've tried angling the camera and this one is no exception. And finally I decided to see what would happen if I went mad on the shutter time and (deliberately) severely overexposed it. The result is one of my favourite shots of the lot. If you're made it this far, thanks for looking. And thanks also to everyone who liked and commented in the build thread - always encouraging.
  23. HI everyone! this is my 1/24 hasegawa fairlady 240Z. I add some detail and change the wheels..the body color is mix by myself.. a very nice kit to build hope you guys like it! and here is the video build if you are interested:
  24. Normally when I put up a WIP thread I start with a fully painted body because I actually started the car yonks before. This year, I decided to go through the body as it's done. And with warm weather last weekend I was able to get an quick layer of primer on this one, not to mention priming the chassis. The kit is Hasegawa's Jaguar XJS which was done a couple of years ago to an extremely high standard by Matt Bacon. I hope I can even halfway to that, although I don't feel I can face wiring up that V12. Initial impression of the kit is that it looks very detailed and hopefully high quality, although not without its flaws. And those flaws seem to be mainly in the manfacure - for example I can see flash on the chrome grille and the body has needed a bit of work. This is how it started (apart from a little bit of sanding before I thought to take the picture). Mould lines are quite pronounced, and I have no idea whose idea it was to run them down the crease between the rear wing and the flying buttresses - almost the perfect place to make them difficult to sand off. It also looks as though this is a kit which at some point in its life was the touring car version with various holes plugged up - the ones in the scuttle and boot are especially obvious. So after a quick sand of the worst seam lines I gave it a coat of white primer to help with identifying the areas which needed work, then filled the low parts, wiped the filler with a piece of card so it was lower, then left it for a week. Over the weekend I set about, scribing, filling where the tool slipped, sanding back, removing the seams and high points and ended up with this: Quite a scabby looking body, but I think I have it pretty much sorted. Ready for priming now anyway. And that leads me onto my first question... As the first picture shows, for some reason Hasegawa have chosen to mould it in a dark red. And going over it with that white primer has confirmed my suspicions that this is a colour which is going to bleed through if I don't stop it. Given that I'm not doing this as a red car, my question is "I've heard that silver paint can stop bleed though. Is this correct? And if so would a light metallic gray do the same job?" It'll be a long time before this gets finished (there's an SSR taking priority at the moment, and midway through I expect I'll be stopping the build for the Mustang Group Build), but with warmer weather I hope I can get some progress painting it for now. Apologies if this post looks as though I'm not impressed by the kit - I am but the body moulding is the most disappointing part of it so I can (hopefully) get the bad news out of the way at the start. Thanks for looking,
  25. Hi everyone!! this is my 1/24 fujimi shelby cobra 427.. I pass the engine and focus on visible area in this case. I also made some modification on this kit. takes a lot time...I am glad it came out well.. hope you guys like it!! and here is the video build if you are interested!!
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