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nheather

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Everything posted by nheather

  1. Same here. Very interesting to hear about the red sealing liquid - never seen that on any of mine. One is a CS so that makes sense but the other two weren't. Cheers, Nigel
  2. Even some Iwata stuff (the compressors for example) are made by Sparmax. I have a Sparmax airbrush - no thread grease on that either. Threads aren’t airtight - the sealing should be done by the mating surfaces usually done with an O-Ring. If the O-Ring or mating surfaces are damaged letting air get past then the thread alone won’t stop the air escaping. That is why you put beeswax on the threads (to make them airtight) but you are only really doing that to address a problem elsewhere - it really shouldn’t be needed. Cheers, Nigel
  3. Firstly, I agree that beeswax is a good answer. PTFE would probably work too but I would find it too much of a faff winding it onto such a small thread and getting all the remains off when replacing it. But an observation about the actual problem - I have had a number of airbrushes, three Iwatas (though not Neos) and none of them have arrived out of the box with thread sealer. I have some beeswax but the only airbrush that needed it was a £15 Chinese clone. Personally, I’d be concerned that a new airbrush is delivered with grease on the nozzle cap thread to make it work - sounds like a bodge to cover up a manufacturing fault to me. Maybe Neos are different, but none of my Iwatas (or other makes) have come with thread grease nor needed it. Cheers, Nigel
  4. Thanks for letting me know. The issue for me is that I didn’t deliberately break the rules. I had no idea that I already had a post in there - it must have been very old. Another forum that I use regularly (avforums) has similar rules but the software that they use it much more helpful - when you attempt to post a second topic it gets blocked with a message explaining that you already have a post and even provides a link to that post so you can decide whether it can be archived. This is a lot more vague and less user-friendly, it let’s you unknowingly post a second topic and let’s it hang around for an indefinite time giving the impression that all is well until one day it magically disappears without any explanation. As I said though, nothing lost.
  5. A good start is that this is a very good airbrush. My best advice, but I appreciate that it may not be possible, is to get someone who has airbrush skills to test it. Starting out as a beginner with an airbrush can be pretty daunting because there are so many variables that can result in a poor result Paint consistency - is it thinned correctly Air pressure Spraying distance Technique Microscopic damage Microscopic dirt Minute air leaks If a beginner picks up a brush for the first time and doesn’t get good results it can be bewildering to know what is the cause. So if at all possible I cannot recommend enough getting someone with experience testing your new airbrush - the good news is that you have bough an excellent airbrush so build quality should not be an issue (unlike with the Chinese clones) but the brush is second hand so it could be damaged or dirty. Having someone experienced test it can rule out any physical issues and then at least you know that it is then down to your technique which can be learned relatively easily and quickly. When you know you have a working airbrush, start on some cheap or scrap models - better to learn by mistake on them than on your expensive pride and joys. Watch YouTube - there are plenty of great tutorials. Primers - one thing to bear in mind with primers, they are often quite thick with large pigments, so thinning is really important, some brands (like stynlrez and ultimate, which is the same stuff) actually specify a 0.4mm nozzle/needle as minimum. Cheers, Nigel
  6. How can I tell if I already have a post in the ‘wanted’ section. Another forum I use also has a ‘only one post’ rule but the software that they use alerts you when you try to add a second and points you at the existing post. I’ve searched the ‘wanted’ forum using my username and it returns no hits. My post probably didn’t have any replies but it was significantly less than 3 months old, probably only a month old. It wasn’t a Buy/Sell thread. I’m not Spanish. So … nein, alles ist nicht klar 😀 As I said in the OP, it’s no big deal, it was a real long shot so wasn’t really expecting any replies, I’m just intrigued to know what would have triggered the deletion. If you had come back and said ‘no replies after 4 weeks’ it would have made sense but as far as I can tell none of the triggers that you have listed apply. Cheers, Nigel
  7. I’m not really that bothered just a little curious. I posted in the ‘Wanted’ section, it was a really long shot and I was not surprised that each time I checked there were no responses. But I checked today and could not find it. I checked several times and could not find it. I even checked my activity in my profile and it is not there either - it as if it never existed - pretty sure I’m not going mad, certain that it did once exist. Cheers, Nigel
  8. Great job, although I might be tempted to have a go at masking and painting the British red and white markings. At the moment they don’t quite look right to me - they look a more like a sheet or a poster that has been draped over the tank (or was that what they actually were?) - maybe there is still some decal softening to do and I’, commenting too early. Cheers, Nigel
  9. Looks like you might be sorted now but I was going to ask whether you have looked into 20mm wargaming figures rather than the usual modelling sources. For example I did a very brief search and found these https://www.stonewallfigures.co.uk/product-category/combat-miniatures-20th-century-20mm/hungarian-infantry/ Just looked at Elheim miniatures, they look very good - I know what you mean about wargaming figures looking cartoony - they are often quite chunky (often referred to as ‘heroic’ sculpt) - I think much of this is to make them more robust for moving about the table, true scale features would soon get broken off. Cheers, Nigel
  10. Red Ochre. I have this set for a wooden ship kit that one day I might get round to building. https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=sherbourne&PN=HM-Cutter-Sherbourne-Lady-Nelson-Paint-Set-APS9010W.html#SID=339 From what I was led to believe, these colours have been specially formulated for Napoleonic ships. Of course recent findings on the actual Victory have discovered that the well known yellow ochre was in reality more of an orangey caramel colour - and it has now be repainted to reflect this. https://www.nmrn.org.uk/news-events/nmrn-blog/hms-victory-be-re-painted-battle-trafalgar-colours-after-210-years So I suspect that the reality is that some of the interior was red but the actual shade is probably not known with much certainty. Cheers, Nigel
  11. Love this. Fantastic photography - that really looks like a graphic art print. Cheers, Nigel
  12. My understanding is that tank tracks didn’t really rust because of the high manganese content in the steel. What is often confused for track rust is residue from rust on the wheels, sprockets and rollers. Cheers, Nigel
  13. I had a look for some pictures of the Red Pelican cockpit but couldn’t find anything. I did find this site though http://www.jetprovostheaven.com/jpteams/ this says that in 1962 to 1964 the Provosts were painted dayglo red but in 1965 to 1974 the team was reduced to four aircraft which were painted post box red and did not have a smoke system. The Airfix model scheme looks to be post box red so I guess it is one of the later aircraft that did not have a smoke system. The site also says that in 1970 the team were issued with T.5 versions so that would place the Airfix model, which is a T.4, in the period range 1965 to 1969 Cheers, Nigel
  14. LED Calculations An LED has a specific voltage across it, which varies by colour but typically it is in the range 2v to 3v. The traditional red and green are about 2v, but the blues and whites tend to need a higher voltage. You can run them in series or parallel - if in series add the LED voltages and your power source needs to be greater, ideally only by a small amount. An LED needs a current through it, the higher the brighter - typically you are talking 5mA to 30mA - as a rule of thumb start with 10mA and see if that is bright enough. In most cases you will need current limiting resistors. Say you are running one LED and it needs a voltage VL. You have a power source VS. VS must be bigger than VL. You want a current IL to flow through the LED and to fix this you will need a resistor. The resistor has the voltage difference across it (VS-VL) and has a current IL flowing through it. Using Ohm's Law the resistance is R = (VS-VL)/IL. So for a Green LED, with a 5V source and 10mA this would be (5-2)/0.01 = 300 ohms If you are running a number of LEDs in series, just sum up the LED voltages so VL = (VL1 + VL2 + VL3) and use the equation above. Running in parallel, you could treat them as a load of paralleled up series circuits and put a resistor in each series circuit as above. But if the paralleled LEDs are all similar (so have the same voltage you can get away with using one resistor. Say you have three green/red LEDs in parallel. Here the voltage across the resistor is VS-VL but the current for all three LEDs flows through it - so 3 x IL. So the equation becomes R = (VS - VL)/(3 x IL) So for three green LEDs running on off a 5V source you have R = (5V - 2V)/0.03A = 100 ohms. I said that ideally you want to have a voltage source only slightly higher than LED voltage - this is because voltage across the resistor is wasted power, all it does is heat up the resistor - and it can get to the point where the resistor will get very hot. Example - 3 green LEDs in parallel 5V power source - I = 30mA, Power wasted in the resistor = V x I = (5-2) x 0.03 = 90mW (a small resistor will remain cool) 9V power source - I =30mA, Power wasted in the resistor = V x I = (9-2) X 0.03 = 210mW (if you are using a small resistor it will get hot) Cheers, Nigel
  15. Saw it this afternoon on my local IMAX - loved it - if someone brings out a decent sized model of one of those dragonfly ornithopter things then they can have my money. Cheers, Nigel
  16. I imagine that the only difference is that the CR version has extra chrome to match the CR airbrush. I can’t imagine that there is any other difference. Cheers, Nigel
  17. I have a few AK painting books and although they are nice and inspiring to look at I don’t find them too helpful. Much of it is made up of pictures end results done by experts with very little in the way of step by step guidance on how to arrive at that end result. In general, I found myself inspired by what can be done but barely any the wiser about how to get there. They do vary though. For example, I have two to hand at the moment, #6 Flesh and Skin and #3 Tracks and Wheels from the AK Learning Series. The Track and Wheels is actually quite good as it has plenty of step by step guides though there is an awful lot of AK product placement, but the Flesh and Skin is mostly gallery pictures and many of those are on large scale bust figures so not that much use to me. Cheers, Nigel
  18. I bought one, it arrived today, fits nicely and looks lovely. I don't regret the purchase one bit but unless I'm missing something, one thing perplexes me. You can't have preset and cut-away at the same time - is that correct? Seems obvious now I think about it, but if you have used the preset to limit the trigger travel then the cut away can't be used to flush the airbrush because it can only be pulled back as far as the preset. So to use the cut-away you have to retract the preset completely out - is that correct? BTW - I notice that Iwata are doing a special edition of the Eclipse - has side feed, the cut-away preset handle and the crown cap - Iwata Takumi Eclipse - quite expensive though. https://airbrushes.com/product_info.php?cPath=400_403_1_9_47&products_id=24821 Cheers, Nigel
  19. I’d be really pleased if my attempts turned out that good. Cheers, Nigel
  20. Big thank you, didn’t know that existed, is it a recent introduction. Definitely getting one for Christmas. Cheers, Nigel
  21. Out of interest which is more useful on the CS - the cut-out to pull back the needle for flushing or the preset - on the CS you can have either (at a cost) but you can’t have both. There was (is) the triple action handle but most of what I read seemed to find fault with it in one way or another. Cheers, Nigel
  22. 😀 oh, it's a company, didn't know that, thought it was referring to a second print run. Cheers, Nigel
  23. What do you mean by Round 2 release - not a term I have heard before. Cheers, Nigel
  24. Some details of the Revell version https://www.keymodelworld.com/article/new-172-mandalorian-razor-crest-revell?utm_campaign=KMW - Scale newsletter&utm_medium=email&_hsmi=170722820&_hsenc=p2ANqtz-9QssF2WaT21ELUAvIoLAMv4VRbecfV4RzIysRYnt2ngNj5jHMaZQBfq5uTxeOKL7vBDKXWP8ehNx4fibDvwNdk8zi5pHnvoK-sqMc2aLXMLekctJ0&utm_content=170726496&utm_source=hs_email Cheers, Nigel
  25. Looks like he has just watched the spin-off series ‘Picard’ and it has suddenly dawned on him what he has done. Cheers, Nigel
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