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brinjal's Achievements


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  1. Doing this myself. Fiddly and translucent decals are really frustrating. If mine turn out half as good as yours i'll be happy. Wonder what paint you used and scheme? Gunze? Raf dark green and medium sea grey or OD/NG?
  2. Update - the cold water dip method works. I dip around 5 seconds, a couple of times. And then it comes off ok. Still too thin, but not as soft, and not as wretched / wrinkled. At least still salvageable. Thanks
  3. Nope. Unless you count 15 seconds as long. I do these decals as i did on my previous ones. I'll try this cold water method. Thanks.
  4. This is an Academy kit im working on. It disintegrates and curls up itself on the edges by being just inside the water. Once it dries a bit it breaks. It is so think that the white still has the shade of the color on the plane. Thankfully i can paint these invasion stripes myself. But im hesitant to move forward with other decals. I soak all my decals in warm water. Would like to know if there is a special method to treat these kind of decals before applying?
  5. My 6th build. Out of the box, I was excited to have a pilot figure. The kit was easy to build, but still took me 3 weeks, although I blame work for the past week. I decided early on that I will be doing the original early 80s RMAF silver scheme, and I completed the paint job after just 4 days. The majority of the rest of the time was spent googling and looking at pictures. The kit itself costs less than 5 euros. For me, the panel lines were satisfactorily sufficient at this price. The fit was good until the pylons, which took several tries and I still have the starboard wing bomb slightly off. I decided to include a full load of 3 fuel tanks, 2 mk 82 bombs and 2 sidewinders. I saw a rare photo that this RMAF plane, in this scheme, had 3 external fuel tanks. In reality, because it was mostly doing recon and bombing missions on the communist hideout over the malaysian/thai border jungles, it probably does not carry the sidewinders and the two fuel tanks on the wings. otherwise, there was also a gap on wings (towards the end) to the fuselage, but it was symmetrical. The other problem is that the front canopy is too short. The decals were by Salmonball. They were unbelievably great. moves well, sticks well, comforms well. The good thing about the decals is you actually get two sets instead of one, because newer gunship grey paint schemes had completely different markings, even the shapes. And the decal had all of them. I was pleased to be able to finish it in an open canopy, although the mechanism detail was non existent. The landing gear bays had some nice details in it, i might still add some colors to them. I am also pleased that the overall paint job took only 7 thin coats and look as good as the F86 (thicker coats) I did before, and maintained most of the panel lines. Finally, this was a patriotic project, I wanted a model from my own country's air force. And that the plane in this scheme (during around 1983) actually carried out missions means even more. I'll be doing a F/A-18D hornet which participated in the 2013 Lahad Datu Stand Off next. Its a subject that I had very little knowledge prior. so any comments would be greatly appreciated. Probably not as accurate as some other kits but it was dirt cheap (both the kit and decals).
  6. Thanks Andre @Hookthat particular picture also helped me decide to include all 3 fuel tanks. Cos before that i never see any picture of RMAF tigers with 3 fuel tanks. Cheers
  7. I'm currently doing an F5E Tiger in Malaysian Air Force scheme. But I don't really know what color I should paint the external fuel tanks, both on the wings and underbelly. Am I safe to assume that it usually follows whatever paint scheme that the aircraft was having? for example i'm doing an early 80s RMAF F5E, it was in silver color except the anti glare panel. So the drop tanks, and for the same purpose, the bomb pylons and racks, are all also silver? thanks
  8. They provided two windshields, i read somewhere that part 27 should be the correct one based on actual photo. im not too sure, I thought the coffman blister is the one on the front below the cowling?
  9. Now I'm not a spitfire expert, I just love them. The build experience was very similar to the Airfix one. But I thought Airfix did the rear landing wheel better, and better quality sprues. Revell's plastics are soft, which means I broke the antenna too many times that eventually I lost it, and I just shaved one from the sprue left. instructions are quite good, color booklet. The seat has photo-etch harness, and I had thought of leaving the canopy open. But the middle piece couldn't be placed on top of the rear piece without being too far up above. I really like how these tamiya colors turned out. I also tried the sausage masking technique for the camouflage. Due to me having a thicker paint than ideal, it resulted in some pooling at some of the edges. On the matter of markings and camouflage, it was discussed in another thread but I was hesitating whether to paint the yellow strip on the front edges of the wings. The AMO regarding new camo colors in ocean grey (among others, (sky fuselage band and spinner)) was later (July 1942) than what Revell said this plane was (April 1942). But yes they have been doing tests on these new camouflage colors since Aug 1941. So some squadrons have already painted them in this color, but the yellow strip was only mentioned in the Memo, hence they weren't on the plane.
  10. Thinking of trying to do panel line wash, can I use tamiya acrylic mix with water and thinner? My model is painted with acrylic and sprayed with gunze premium top coat Thanks
  11. So here's my 5th kit, part two of Academy's Gabreski kit, the F-86. Build was quick, but after that has been a bit of a mess. 1) I struggled with painting bright colors (chrome silver in this case), because each time i realise there are spots that still needed touch ups. In the end i put at least 7 full coats on it. I have since refined my method by using even thinner coats on my F5E. And results so far are good. 2) As per the P47D earlier, a lot of panel lines were missed out, particularly on the slats and fuselage. And I suspect this is a scaled down model from larger kits because there were so many stencil decals. They are nice, but without the panel lines as reference points its hard to pin point the exact location for the decals. Generally good decals, I did mess up 3 though. i'm hopeless on long line decals. 3) Instruction sheet called for the cockpit pressure regulator/ antenna piece (behind the seat) to be attached to the canopy and put onto it. It is impossible because the space reserved for that piece is actually inside the fuselage. I found out too late when I referred to another of their F86 kit instruction, that the piece needs to be put in place before joining the fuselage. 4) It wont stand on its own! The engine part is hollow. So I had to "make the engine" by rolling up some copper wires and stuffed them inside. I was quite pleased that the kit has the option of air brakes in open condition. And they even pre cut the decals if we wanted to build it in open condition. But again like the P47D kit, the hardpoints should only be installed after decals. I was also originally a bit skeptical because I only had chrome silver instead of aluminum silver. But I saw the result from another post here in BM that I thought chrome silver looks ok too. And oh, one more final thought, I learned that the slats are actually more accurate for a Canadian Sabre. So thats how I fared for my first ever jet. hoping to get more advise from fellow forum members.. thanks
  12. Hi all, would like some help on what is this A19 part? I can't seem to find it online, maybe i'm using the wrong keyword.. thanks
  13. @malpaso so am i correct to assume that revell forgot the yellow strips on the outer wing leading edges? (Page 20 of the book) Thanks
  14. No im not saying metallic grey is right, cos i've seen people paint them in the copper color like yours, im just wondering what is really the color.
  15. I wonder what is the real color of these exhaust stacks, cos Tamiya suggest metallic grey
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