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About cjhm

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    Obsessed Member

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    Cars, Planes, Trains, Sci-Fi, Goodwood Festival of Speed

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  1. Yes, Hailsham all confirmed (Apologies!)
  2. Website updated with final clubs and traders West Kent and IPMS Hornchurch confirmed http://www.lancingmodelshow.org.uk/
  3. cjhm


    Thanks and agree on tail. Undercoat was fine but the red on the tailplanes seemed to be ‘drawn off’ during drying so needed lots of coats and detail got lost. I’m thinking the angle of the elevator line was allowing the paint to ‘capillary off’? Varnish went on rough too at the back, my fault !
  4. Just finished this for Twitter Cold War Group Build #ColdWarFebGB – https://twitter.com/hashtag/ColdWarFebGB I used two Revell 1/72 F-89 kits; first one had damp damaged decals, mis-moulded canopy and missing rocket pod half so had to purchase another to complete the build! Silver and Red are Vallejo model air, Gloss varnish (before and after decals) from MIG Work in progress pictures here: https://twitter.com/search?q=%23coldwarfebgb%20cjhm%20f89scorpion More pics of finished model here: http://blog.cjhm.net/172-revell-f-89-scorpion We are doing a WHIF build now, please join us: https://twitter.com/hashtag/WhatifGB Not my best effort but hope you enjoy
  5. Beautiful On days like these ....
  6. Yes, know it's a bit tall but it looks enough like the MF to me unless someone gifts me the new Bandai one when it appears ... Adjustment to the hexagonal airlocks(?) would be fun too!
  7. Date for next years show: Saturday, 12th May 2018 We have updated the website: http://www.lancingmodelshow.org.uk/ and are on Twitter too https://twitter.com/BN15ModelShow Our club always welcomes new members and we don't have any meeting or membership fees so please feel free to come along if you are vaguely close to Southwick, West Sussex, every 4th Tuesday; more information here: http://southdownsmodelgroup.org.uk/ See you there Chris
  8. This is the large (40cm long) 1/72 Revell Millennium Falcon Easy Kit, kit 06694 The kit has relatively few parts and is designed to hold together without glue; parts are relatively thick but reasonably detailed. Details are pre-painted so that the model can be built quickly without any additional finishing There is an in-box review with good sprue shots at: I can't justify the £300+ for the Fine Molds version or indeed the forthcoming Bandai one which I gather will come in at similar price. Stunning as those kits may be, £29 for this version (£60 RRP) seemed like a good compromise after watching Last Jedi Originally released a few years back as an 'Original Trilogy' version, this kit has additional parts for the rectangular radar dish from Force Awakens together with slightly different undercarriage and access ramp but the original parts are also included. The kit goes together quickly, plan was to leave main ship parts unpainted other than a coat of Matt Varnish before weathering but the pre-painted side panels were very different in tone so decided to paint everything. Cockpit is basic but thick glasswork makes it hard to see anyway, I modified some Airfix pilots to make a crude Han and Chewbacca for a bit of fun. To avoid a see-through look to the hull I added plastic card squares, coloured black with a sharpie, over the gun position windows top and bottom. The blue painted (on rear) clear engine part was installed and masked with Tamiya Tamiya paint for protection against both scratches and paint. I used the newer 'Force Awakens' undercarriage parts as they seemed more detailed and made an extra radar dish mounting (copying kit part) so that I could use both parts and swap them around. I assembled everything other than the undercarriage doors, guns and radar dishes then masked the clear parts with Humbrol Maskol ready for painting. Lifecolor FS 36440 Light Gull Grey was airbrushed all over, when dry a coat of MIG Ammo matt varnish added extra protection. Red, grey and yellow panels were brush painted back on (using pictures of the pre-painted kit parts as reference along with a copy of Fine Molds kit instructions I found on Internet. When all this was dry, I used Vallejo acrylic washes (Light Grey primarily, with Dark Grey and\or White wash mixed in for variation) to weather the ship. Maskol removed, all finished Was a relatively quick and very fun build, only problem now is that it's too big for display cabinet ! Lots more pictures here: http://blog.cjhm.net/172-revell-millennium-falcon Work in progress pictures on Twitter: https://twitter.com/search?f=tweets&q=cjhm %23REVELL MILLENNIUMFALCON&src=typd&lang=en
  9. Great stuff, both model and full size
  10. cjhm

    E-Type Jaguar

    Good to know (yes, wipers are very poor, would use etch on another and try to polish 'glass') Interestingly have a set of Daytona wires as I used the Cromodora wheels on my build Need a Tamiya Mk2 as well , did one when it first came out, need another but seem pricey on eBay
  11. cjhm

    E-Type Jaguar

    Thank you Was thinking similar about convertible, will have to do one of them too!
  12. cjhm

    E-Type Jaguar

    Some better pictures from a brief sunny interlude, more at : http://blog.cjhm.net/124-heller-e-type-jaguar
  13. Inspired by seeing the CUT8 racing E-Type on a visit to Goodwood for a Revival Test Day I built this 'fast road' version model from the old Heller 1/24 kit. Originally released in 1978, the kit is basic but it seems to be the best option among the limited range of kit options available. The main challenge with this kit is the horizontal seam in the body (I presume caused by the moulding limitations of the time) created where Heller have the lower body panels moulded with the chassis\underbody. The design of the kit prevents the joining of upper and lower body until the interior and side windows are installed by which point filling and sanding is likely to damage the completed interior and allow water to get trapped inside whilst wet sanding. After researching similar builds I found on the internet and various dry fittings with parts taped together I decided to separate the lower body (sills and rear valance) from the chassis parts using a razor saw and attach them to the main body, reinforcing the join with strips of plastic card. I then glued the boot floor to the remaining chassis parts, the end result allowing the chassis to slide back into the main body after painting. My assembly method would leave a small slot where the body sides curl under and meet the chassis but this would be out of sight when finished so was an acceptable compromise. What I didn't realise at the time was that once the side windows were installed (they are moulded with the interior door card detail) during finally assembly, they would prevent the two sections sliding together as planned ! (see below) I decided to modify the left hand drive dashboard to RHD, using plastic card to make the glovebox look like the instrument panel and removing detail on the moulded left hand panel to represent a new glovebox. Remainder of assembly was as mainly as per the instructions; I added ignition leads from fine (approx. 0.3mm) wire inserted into holes drilled in cylinder head and coil, running them back to a distributor made from a small piece of plastic tube (which replaced the lumpy kit distributor). Body was painted with Halfords car paint; Plastic Primer then Rover British Racing Green with clear lacquer to finish. After 3 weeks drying I user 6000/8000/12000 micro mesh to smooth the lacquer before applying Autoglym polish to give a final shine. Chassis was sprayed with can of Humbrol 85 satin black acrylic. Engine, interior and other details were brush painted using Vallejo, Citadel and Lifecolor acrylics. The wheels and other chrome parts had their heavy plating removed using bleach before painting. The wheels were then finished in Humbrol 56 acrylic, again from a spray can. Etched Knock-offs from detail master were added to the wheels as the kit parts were very crude. Chrome was added to window frames and other details using a 1mm Molotow pen; these pens really are chrome, not silver, and are far easier to use than foil. The side windows were added to the completed body and then I went to slide the chassis (with attached seats and dashboard) up into the body. The chassis snagged on the side windows so I couldn't get the boot floor and chassis rear in position so I had to carefully separate the boot floor using a razor saw and insert it first before squeezing the reminder of the chassis into position. Once together I re-glued and re-painted the cut parts through the open rear window opening as best as I could. The front and rear windows fit from the outside of the body, I added these last only to find they didn't fit well, in part due to paint build up leaving the rear screen proud of the bodywork. Lights were added to the completed body, Tamiya clear red\orange being used for the lenses. Numberplates were printed from my PC onto photo-paper. Bumbers were intentionally left off for a 'road racer' look Lots of work in progress pictures here:https://twitter.com/search?q=cjhm%20heller%20jaguar&src=typd Many more pictures here: http://blog.cjhm.net/124-heller-e-type-jaguar