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About Merlin

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  1. Hi, This sounds encouraging, exact matches to Merrick will do me nicely :-)...and a friend. though it doesnt solve my quest for accurate acrylics. I will obtain from you some tinlets and test again. Truly does your RLM65 match Merrick as everyone else have gone for the turquoisy hinted one that was in charts prior to Merrick. Ullman points to two variants of this. Undersurfaces could have a protective translucent layer added for chipping etc I read somewhere which might have introduced a slight colour variation and created the slight hint of turquoise look. I have a wartime panel where the pale slightly more turquoisy colour surface is abraded and shows the Merrick rlm65 through ! I have been told that Mr Colour self levelling thinners are the best thing to use in acrylics and also enamels. Have you tested this thinner as such. I up to now have only ever used the thinners the manufacturer sell, in the case of WEM though I probably used either Hannants triple refined or Humbrol. I have also had Phoenix Precision paint and Hannants Xtracolor do that failure to dry without remaining tacky., and I have heard from others about Hannants tending to do that. Its all very off-putting as I simply want to paint and it work. My Hannants sample remained tacky for months. I do want enamels to brush out without feeling like coloured varnish, brush strokes to blend and be of a uniform density of pigment on the first application. What thinners would you tell folk to use with Sovereign ? Merlin
  2. Hi, Sovereign are ex WEM and as per a reply to another thread the experience I had with my first ever use of them put me off (they didnt dry tacky free after one day and 2nd brush application removed the first coat). Sovereign are Enamels as such, so my quest for acrylics to try and get the advantages they offer is still a quest. I will however get a tinlet of their 02 71 70 and 65 and re assess it. Enamels still after the world is trying to go Acrylic. I would though like to see the colours they have come up with, maybe some tweaking can make them accurate. Spending £100 though to find out is not easy on my wallet as its almost empty. If anyone has already assessed them against Merrick then please post here. I just wish the manufacturers had a better approach to the actual colour matching but they dont match to a recognised accurate paint chip set, and for me thats Merrick/Kiroff as I can't see how one can better that. Why after all these years can no one do that ? Just declare the chart the colours match to. Its as if they are covering for a laziness of matching. Merlin
  3. Hi Stew, I am an enamels person so fully agree Devils Dribble :-) I only say midday as a guide and 2pm still does though 4pm in winter is a setting sun and yellowy etc. Any photographs where colour is the judgement and subject must be out of doors without a yellowy sun, anyone please note. Chickens are optional :-) Sovereign is ex White Ensign, now I had a bad experience with my first ever (and last due to this ) tins when WEM existed, remained tacky for some time (days later) after hand brushing and I THOROUGHLY mix. It wouldnt give a uniform coverage, those dense and less dense streaks occurred that seem to be a thing of modern formulas unlike 'old humbrol',. On that note I mixed up a tin of Humbrol Authentics the other day and painted out a sample and discovered again the superb flow and self leveling and knitting together the paint did, one coat gave me something that looked as if it was airbrushed. Sheer joy to apply, we have the H&S and EEC to thank for loss of this characteristic so I am told, ingredients that helped this wonderful characteristic were banned. Come the next day which normally is enough time for any painted part to be ready for 2nd coat, as I examined yesterdays work and placed it back on the cutting mat it remained on my finger for a moment before self releasing. Just not dry as other paints dry, brushing a 2nd coat carefully around the tricky areas, the duration involved in this careful work lifted instead the first coat ! The only way to avoid that was to quickly lay down a 2nd coat before it dissolved the first, but you cant do that if careful brushing, its why one is brushing in the first place ! I like the ease of clean up with acrylics and the ability to crack on with the build but the same dry speed is counter productive when it domes to fine airbrush work, I even get bung ups on laying down general areas of cover. Flow retarder is the way it seems but measuring that out for a small amount of paint I have custom mixed worries me. As everything is going acrylics I am trying to find a range that are colour accurate and perform well but manufacturers are not interested in such accuracy it seems., certainly in matching to a recognised and well received colour standard. When they start shooting down colour charts to justify their own idea of a match, but a match to their own 'non existent' charts, then that tells all. Its the relationship between colours as well that counts and when 70/71 painted out looks like 71/02 then its even worse. If anyone would care to paint out Hataka and place onto their Merrick charts in daylight and are armed with a dslr set to auto white balance, not tungsten etc !., it would be interesting to see. My screen by the way is colour calibrated for pro use. Merlin
  4. Ref the debate over the Hataka rlm70/71 colour accuracy is there any chance of painting these out onto plastic card and laying them onto the charts in the Merrick two volume set, as from what I see they are miles off. That is the only way to establish their accuracy, and unless its your lighting they are some of the worst attempts at 70 and 71 ever seen. I am interested as its been suggested that Hataka are worth trying as an accurate set, but unless its your interior lighting I dont see any variations on the 70/71 combination as being anything like reality, except that the Phoenix Precision paint I know to be the nearest to 70 and 71 but my samples look different to that Ju88 so pics need to be in daylight not interior lighting or flash. That fact further supported by what looks to be brown for the interior colour when it should be rlm02, so again the lighting at play, ditto the rlm65 has no blue about it. Judgment on this must be in daylight midday ! the 65 and 02 would also be most welcome seen painted out and laid on the Merrick charts. (1938) Paint in another thread also seems to lack opacity though. Sounds like its rubbish all in all ! Merlin
  5. Hi, For me it has to be Merrick and nothing else ( I see Keiroff is assoc with Vol 1 and 2 which threw me a bit when you mentioned a name I wasnt aware of, so you mean the Merrick volumes 1 and 2...good choice !) , and unless someone has some real hard evidence to disprove that research and chart production by Merrick (and Keiroff) and the effort involved in sourcing absolutely every accurate ingredient of the original formulation, it would be the standard to refer to for everyone. The colours I am interested in certainly match all research and surviving examples I have been privileged to view. The article also refers to Merrick, but misses a golden chance and doesnt compare MMP to Merrick, He says...The aim of this little project is to show the color and hue of the new Mission Models Luftwaffe colors relative to the same colors from other manufacturers. I see no sense at all in seeing if MMP matches other manufacturers as they dont match Merrick thats for sure, pointless exercise as it would either show a match to another brand which has errors, but what use is that, or a difference, so then yet another colour range available to us but not necessarily of any use, unless one knows if it matches a known Luft chip chart and one believes in that chart. << I have used the MMP RLM74, 75 and 76 and they seem to match the Keiroff charts I have very well. >> thats a good start, at least I could plump for those, but I do need to know about the others from someone. Just no way can I plump for them without knowing what they match to, I understand now though the manufacturers didnt consider Merrick as worthy of matching to, no reason given though for shooting down what is 'the bible'. Puts great doubt in my mind over the range with that approach. With having bought so many different ranges all of which do their own interpretation I just cant carry on buying ranges and hoping someone might actually bring out a range matched to what has been considered an accurate chip research and creation exercise. If you can paint out their colours on separate squares of plastic card and lay these onto the relevant colours on the Merrick charts, and photo them in daylight at midday, though at this time of the year even then it might be a bit yellowy a light, that would be of some guidance. Flashgun at 45degree to chart indoors otherwise but light fall off across them would be a issue. Establishing correct exposure is another variable. I dont think RGB can capture some of these colours accurately anyway, so a human eye analysis feedback is also essential. Matches comments on darkness hue saturation etc would be most useful. Better still to get them to Cybermodeler to add to the charts there that compare ranges to Merrick would be most welcome. I get the feeling though that if they match its more luck than judgement if they ignored Merrick and even other charts. They sound good for application but colour is vital as well. If they match then we have a wow factor, a range to follow at last. How do these pre-thinned paints though brush out, thats a worry. Merlin
  6. Hi, Before committing to £5 per pot which is going to hit my bank balance pretty hard for even the basic Luftwaffe colour range along with RAF, with the hope of getting at last an accurate set of Luftwaffe colours as well as RAF, I need to know how the Mission Models paints Luftwaffe colours match Merricks two books please. 1938 dated chart especially., and the British Aviation Colours of WW II RAF Museum series Vol 3 book with the RAF colour chips in the back. Both of which I have. I am interested in:- RLM : 02 04 65 70 71 74 75 76 and RAF: Dk Green Dk Earth Sky Medium Sea Grey Night Black Black Roundel Red Roundel Blue Trainer Yellow Cheers Merlin
  7. Anyone given mission models paint a try?

    I have just discovered MMP and it says on the website that its pre thinned for airbrushing, so one is paying £5 for 30ml when in fact half of it is thinners, compare that to £2.25 for 16ml Xtracrylix which isnt thinned, for the pigment thats 235% more per ml in the case of MMP. How can it be brush painted when at airbrush consistency ? Sounded good as long as its colours are accurate, but now somewhat baffled and concerned. Surely one coat coverage with a brush isn't possible. Also it will only last half as long as a tin of pigment. I dont get why a manufacturer wants to pre-thin as it denies brush painting in one coat for fine delicate work where getting it accurately placed is a white knuckle ride first time. Second coat lifts the first from my experience with other paints when one is slowly painting something having to be careful. Merlin
  8. any chance we can see the photos ? Merlin any chance we can see the photos ? Merlin
  9. Thinning Halfords paint?

    Vontrips, So did it work ? Merlin
  10. Cellulose thinners it is then. Thank you (a belated one !) Do you modellers also decant and thin the Halfords white primer and again is that with cellulose ? Same situation otherwise of clouds of spray in a small modelling studio and overkill especially if trying to prime intricate parts. I have some Hycote white primer, is that also suited to cellulose ? I like the Mr Surfacer primer but its grey not white so for red or a white topcoat for example I would prefer white. Merlin
  11. Hi Panzer948, Just revisiting this thread for inspiration as I have found my Signifer oil cart, and all the images are afflicted by photobucket's move to ask for money, and so wreck the internet which has become the reference for life, any chance you could use a free host and repost them ? Everywhere I am going images vital to our hobby have vanished. terrible state of affairs. Merlin
  12. Hi, For most castings simply mix up the resin then pour in. Fast Cast doesnt need de-bubbling. Lesson learnt :-) Q1. If an object is such that as the resin is poured in, it traps air into part of its shape, and that shape cannot be air vented with a channel etc, what resin should one use for this ? Q2. Also what vacuum achieved time on the chamber should be aimed for ? My pump 42.5L/M, ( all I can afford brand new...as the next pump price that does vacuum on 26L in 30 secs is £800 ), having added more solids to the 26L chamber, so its now in theory 10L of air space, sees the following stages reached on the gauge:- 27 1:23 28 1:36 29 1:57 29.5 2:13 29.7 2:27 30 2:42 30.3 3:10 30.4 3:25 30.5 3:44 and no go beyond 30.5 Q3. is it in fact possible to bulk out the 26L chamber to achieve 30 sec vacuum reached time with a 42.5L/M pump ? Q4. at what stage is this going to be degassing and when should I let air in ? The one fast cast I have has pot life 2 to 3 mins. Another I have is supposed to be 6 mins. That set with big bubbles in 5m:16sec By the time I have added in part B then stirred it, then pipetted it into mould, placed lid on and switched on pump, I am at setting time it seems before vacuum has had chance to do its thing.. Pipetting Part B to get 7.0 g of B into A, sees three squirts and a careful 4th where drip by drip I achieve the same weight, allowed 1% variance at most, one drip too many can break the rule. Here is a timed session on Fast Cast polyurethane resin pot life 2 to 3 mins, with 10% black pigment added to A :- 00:00 as part B first hits part A. 1:35 end of stir of 30 secs duration, 18mm wide stirring stick for greater effect, any wilder and it flicks out of beaker at me ! 3:35 all is now into film canister (Pipette is slow method of getting mix into mould, need to rethink that ! ) Lid on, flip handles, start vacuum pump. 10 4:22 15 4:31 20 4:47 22.5 5:00 25 5:12 27 5:31 appears to have slowed, let air in, result, 4mm at base of canister is solid, the rest , totalling 20m height is a resin bubble mix ! and its hot to touch ! 6 minute one no better, having also added 10% black pigment, in fact it had a whitish substance in small areas across the moon cratered bubbled surface, and was dark grey at best. Q5. What was that white stuff, it can be poked away with cocktail stick, but doesnt just wash off. Incompatability of black pigment or side efect of 'boiling' ? Q6. The longer I leave it in there the bigger the bubbles get. One will never get to no bubbles it seems, so if one needs to get air out from a shape , is a 30 sec vac chamber pump at £800 going to be the answer or will this stuff 'boil' and bubble ? Q7. Does resin get hot under vacuum and forever generate bubbles, as these bubbles get bigger and BIGGER...as time passes ! Merlin
  13. Hi, Cheers. I will try and get some. I just tried Tamiya white putty but it took 8 or so hours to dry hard., as did Mr Surfacer 500. Merlin
  14. Mr Hobby Primer Surfacer is suggested now for Resin, but at £20 for one can in the tnt dpd etc delivery system because Royal Mail have gone silly mode, its a no go. Will have to be Halfords and save £15. Halfords Plastic primer or standard primer for resin, does it make any difference ? Is the plastic primer better suited to resins ? Merlin