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    • Mike

      Switched Identities   18/06/17

      If you are still having problems logging in and remaining under your own username following the DDoS attack last week, you need to log off, clear your browser's cache, and restart your browser to ensure you clear all the old files from your temporary area.  Then you should be sorted.


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About johnd

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  • Birthday November 16

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  1. Hi, do you have any plans to stock the Hataka Blue Line paints, please? They're the ones optimised for a brush. Thanks, John.
  2. It's easier than that. Find the photo you wish to post in your Flickr Photostream then copy/paste the URL from the address bar of the browser. John.
  3. Or if you need to crop heavily. John.
  4. Done. John.
  5. Very impressive! Is that the kit canopy? If so, you've got a great fit there too. John.
  6. Well said Trevor, on all points. Quote from a fireman, "You know it's not going to be good when you're told to write your name on your helmet before you go in" John.
  7. I wasn't aware of the problems with the tyres and wing/fuselage joint but take your point about the canopy, propeller and hatch. Regarding the old tool Mk.I, as you say, it depends on the expectations of the modeller. John.
  8. The best option for a metal winged Hurricane Mk.I at the moment is the Airfix fabric winged kit with the Alley Cat conversion. Not cheap, though. John.
  9. I agree with Giorgio N (except the bit about him being a bad painter, I'm sure that's just modesty). Regarding Model Air, some say it's of no use for brush painting but it is. You just need lots of coats, and as this is regarded as good practice, that's surely a bonus. On the other hand, if it comes ready thinned it's not as good value for money. John. PS My experience is based on painting single engined aircraft in 1/72 scale, though.
  10. Ah... In the link I referred to above you said 126... good question (I have the airfix raf mustang ready to go), the colours used are often quoted as ANA613, ANA603 and ANA602, which equate to humbrol 155, 126 and 129 in my book. Colourcoats I believe have them as the modern federal standard equivalents ANA602 Light Grey - ACUS01 FS26440 Light Gull Grey ANA603 Sea Grey - ACUS14 FS26440 Gunship Grey ANA613 Olive Drab - ACUS15 Olive Drab 41 Edited February 6 by PhantomBigStu John.
  11. For the ANA equivalents I have: Hu 155 for Dark Green Hu 126 for the Ocean Grey Hu 129 for the Medium Sea Grey This is taken from a Britmodeller thread here, which also mentions Mustang CV-P. John.
  12. I'm plotting a quick (by my standards) build of the old 1/72 Airfix Mk.I Spitfire. It has raised panel lines and I was going to try running an H4 pencil along the ridges and see how it turned out. Roundels etc on first, of course. John.
  13. It would depend on the canopy in question. For something simple like a Spitfire, I'd paint it freehand and then tidy up the inevitable wavy line with a sharpened up wooden toothpick or similar. For something a bit trickier, like a Blenheim or Heinkel III I'd be tempted by a commercial masking set. I'm interested in how the experts do it too... John.
  14. It's turned out to be a cracker. I haven't the guts to start mine. John.
  15. Apologies, you're quite right about the dodgy canopy advice - you'd need two Airfix Mk.IIa kits to do as I suggested, the other would be built as an early Mk.I which would free up the canopy! There are three propellers in the Airfix box, the de Havilland one used in the other boxings is there too. Not sure how many back plates there are, though... John.