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Schwarz-Brot

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103 Excellent

About Schwarz-Brot

  • Rank
    New Member
  • Birthday 21/09/85

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    Male
  • Location
    Germany
  1. The only good choice and the only way to raise your voice regarding the poor quality. Good move.
  2. Don't know any more than the flyer says. Will be around and have a look. Maybe someone else is around? http://community.revell.de/download/file.php?id=15886
  3. Good point! Well, aluminium is hard to plate because the surface usually isn't conductive. It corrodes immediately (in a positive way - the corroded surface protects the underlying material). Aluminium therefore usually is eloxadized / anodized as plating is not necessary. To be able to do so it is prepared with acids, maybe even placed in acid during the process, don't remember completely. Very high currents are necessary to get a strong finish. I guess by incorporating an acid into the process plating would be possible as well. But probably not worth the work and dangers as there's enough alternative materials around.
  4. Spraying onto a not fully dried layer. Happened to me once when I clearcoated a miniature I painted... May as well have been put on too thick or as Ron said.
  5. I like your systematic approach to research and how you stick to it. This is a lot of work but so much help for you but also everybody else who ever might want to have a go at this car. Nice touch you credit the people who contribute, even if they are not around here. If you refer to a electroplating process when talking about nickelplating: It most likely works on any metal surface. If the surfaces are isolated from each other you may have to contact them individually to allow the current to flow. You may end up with a non uniform finish if you use different metals. This may or may not be solved by longer plating times. I have no experience with nickelplating, so this is just thinking about the process and possible problems. You'll have to read up yourself or find someone who knows, sorry. For the quality of the surface: The swirls will be seen for sure. Electroplating leaves ultra thin surfaces which show every mark, no matter how small it is. To be honest, it may happen the surface looks worth than you thought because of the uniform and possibly shiny coating every inaccuracy sticks out even more.
  6. Wow, that's even older than my oldest book. Not a fan of Bibles, but when I found a nice old one (around 1900 out of my head) I couldn't resist as well. Mine was in mint condition, though. Probably rarely opened (if ever) and stored under perfect conditions. My oldest book happens to be a farmers handbook on making anything alcoholic. From brewing beer and making wine over liqueurs to distilling absolutely every plant one might find. Brilliant stuff, dated to 1846 and with an ex-libris proving it was passed along in my family over generations. Was about to be thrown away when the former owner passed away. My dad rescued it from the container and I gladly put it into my library.
  7. Wouldn't mind driving this. I love how Japanese cars lend themselves to subtle tuning. You captured this perfectly.
  8. By 'polished' do you mean engine turned? If so, do you think Photo the picture of my previous post was made after the race season? If so, why would they have taken the trouble to apply the effect at that point in time? Perhaps it isn't logical to spend so much time and energy on engine turning on a race car -before the first race-, but I'd say that it would be even less logical to do so afterwards. I never said it was done later. I only described the techniques that would have been used most likely. Jewellig is actually a form of polishing: A pattern of minimal scratches is introduced into a surface of higher quality. So if you say the parts are jewelled they would have to be polished to a shine before. Now think oft the tools available at the time and the way they were operated. Motorized handtools? I don't think so. Lapping machines? Unlikely. Polished by hand only to introduce the pattern after that? Never-ever. As I said the parts were most likely cast. And for some reason a clean surface was required. How would this be achieved? Scraping is a technique as old as metalworking, much like working with a plane on wood. But it is very time consuming and leads to a very different surface than seen here. If I had the possibilities back in the days I would most likely try to use a machine for the task. My guess would be there was only a drilling machine or maybe a simple 3-axis milling machine available and it was decided to utilize it. So you have a rotating axis that only moves up and down, maybe even back and forth and left and right. But no way to work around a curved surface. Put a tool in it - some abrasive material or a mill or a wire brush, take two men to position the part and operate the machine. Work your way all over the surface, dot by dot. Inverse the direction between dots. There you have your jewelling pattern. But in fact the surface still isn't really shiny. It is smooth and blank, but still not polished.
  9. Btw, I usually calculate what I am willing to give for an ebay item including the postage. Then I add an odd Euro or two as I figure others may have the same limit. This is what I bid. I then walk away until it's over and I am notified. Bidding battles are not worth my time.
  10. Or was it actually the seller or someone related, trying to push the price? Happens way too often recently.
  11. Yeah, sorry. Was referring to the classic brown stuff in my case.
  12. Use whatever works for you. Why not? I know some modellers use it and I got me a bottle to try it out. Worked very well on large tin models and with ABS parts so far. Problem is you have to fix the parts in one way or another as the volume increases remarkably when it hardens.
  13. Looking good and captured the real one nicely. What I don't get is the front optics. This has nothing to do with your build. It is about the real cars aesthetics. The angled lenses and the missing grille. Maybe I'm not Japanese enough to get this.
  14. true... true...
  15. You're welcome! polished white metal looks silvery and very shiny and keeps that shine usually. If you don't get tin pest, that is. Over time and certain conditions and probably depending on the exact alloy used tin alloys can corrode or bloom. This happened a lot to certain makes of tin soldiers of the eighties and older. A clear coat would prevent that surely. This may veeeeery slightly be tinted to knock back the shine a bit, if it is too much. I am pretty sure the motors were not actually polished, only smoothened to a blanc and pretty even surface. Technically I can think of several reasons for this: The engine parts were cast parts most likely. - A blank surface allows for easier quality control on those highly stressed parts. Cracks from bad casts are next to impossible to find by eye on the rough surface you get with metal casting. - A blank surface allows to see cracks and problems more easy on a working motor. Under race conditions it is the easiest way to optically identify a problem without the eye being mislead by rough and coloured surfaces. Excessive Pre-installation testing would benefit as well. Also, cracks would only show up on a painted or rough surface when it is probably too late (engine already blown). - A blank surface is way easier to clean. Oil, water, dirt, grime. Whatever you get on there - it comes off quite easily with the right solvent. On a rough surface this wouldn't come off completely. - the blank surface might cool down better then a scaled one which has effectively more surface but probably with worse heat conducting properties. As I get it this motor revved very high for its time. There may be more reasons, but I am pretty sure it was not done barely for the optics.