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About Schwarz-Brot

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  • Birthday 21/09/1985

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  1. What miniatures did you purchase lately?

    Confrontation is back! Well, kind of. There's a kickstarter going on right now to get a good part of the classic miniatures back into production. Seems to be plastic this time, but why not. I'm in, always loved those miniatures and the studio paintjobs where always special and super colourful. I hope it is ok to post the link. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/996665814/confrontation-classic-the-legendary-skirmish-game?ref=discovery&term=confrontation classic
  2. What miniatures did you purchase lately?

    Kingdom Death Kickstarter Wave 2 landed a few days ago. The twelve classic expansions to the core game. Holy... And this is just the beginning. The game is rated 17+ for good reasons, just google for it, if you are interested. I do not think I'd be allowed to show pictures here. I finally settled on a way to paint the miniatures - I will take an arty approach instead of painting anything in full detail. I am going to do a full black basecoat to everything and then airbrush pure white highlights, just like black and white pictures or some fine comic artwork in the style of the sin city movie. The lanterns - a constant theme across all models - may get some soft glow in warm colours to work against the harsh airbrushed shadows and lights. This way I should get a reasonably fast and extraordinary paintjob suitable for an extraordinary game while it still allows to visually push all the fine details.
  3. 1/12 scale Kremer K3 Porsche 935

    This is a slow hobby anyway. No need to hurry! Dein Nick ist auch klasse und mit hohem Wiedererkennungswert. Viele Grüße aus Krefeld, Jan
  4. 1/12 scale Kremer K3 Porsche 935

    I might be interested in a body, if you do a mold! Great topic, looking forward to your updates.
  5. MFH Alfa Romeo 159M

    There's also Wax Pens: http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/amazing-tools/368-wax-picking-pencil.html Very useful for light and small parts.
  6. What kind of collectors Item is it aiming to be? - A highly detailed display only model with very accurate details and perfect high quality surfaces does not need a working suspension, but every bit that can be seen under any angle must be detailed. - A kind of functional model with "play features" like opening doors, hood and bonnet should also have a working suspension and steering. If it can be seen it should be looking like the original, but the functions could be simplyfied. - A more High quality toy like model should have lots of working features and gimmicks like light and sound. Squishiness is a must, detail could be less. Might even think of an RC-toy, or for model racetracks. - A model Kit should detail any part, working features I wouldn't expect as a builder, but everything should be detailed, no matter if one sees it after being built. Maybe this helps a bit.
  7. She's a beauty! And you did a very cool display base.
  8. Delage 15-S-8 Grand Prix (1/8)

    Thank you. I think I put Paris and Florida on top of my travelling plans... If only my girlfriend was that much into cars. I admire your dedication and enjoy every single post.
  9. @sharknose156 Aderendhülsen: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_wire_ferrule
  10. Lynx restoration

    I think the fabric looks too rough in that scale. Maybe you can find some silk or something similar with very fine pattern to make the pieces from? Glueing might be better than sewing. I guess you'll have to experiment a bit. Obviously you've come a long way since you did her the first time. I do not touch up old miniatures, there's just too much out there that I want to paint. But it is very satisfying to see what a level can be achieved after just a few years in the hobby.
  11. Is this part of your master thesis? Or just a project along the way? There's a lot of research going into production and prototyping methods, therefore there's a wealth of information out there. But nothing beats personal experience. Looks like you've got a great variety of tools at your hands, and it seems like you know how to use them. So far you show some impressive pictures. For the key: I'D find it too big and heavy for sure, with those solid materials. I always have my keys in my pocket. This would disturb me. Are you working with and for RR or is it a topic you chose because you're interested in it? I'll follow this, as I have always had a high interest in industrial / product design, but ultimately chose the engineering side of things.
  12. Well, matte grey is kind of a trend in the super sportscar tuning world at the moment, so why not? I'd prefer matte with my grey, but that is just me. I really like the yellow-grey contrast in the details.
  13. Advice for free empty paint containers

    You know you can buy Eye-dropper bottles in glass and vallejo style droppers in various materials dirt cheap and brand new in bulk?
  14. I'd go with quick setting 2k epoxy glue. Plenty of strenghth for most joints. To get around the setting times I sometimes join several parts with tiny dots of a CA glue. This is also easy to break away if the alignment is not perfect. After that the joints can be carefully filled with epoxy glue for strenghth. Pinning is an option, but I would not generally recommend it. It's not like you're building a toy that's expected to see rough handling. Soldering I would not recommend for white metal as the melting point is equally low as any solder (if you use any at all). It is very easy to mess up parts this way. I'd keep the solder for PE parts (and electronics). For pinning paperclips are a super cheap option. The wire is very stiff. Don't use your good side cutters for them!
  15. NewMan Porsche 956

    Beautiful work. I am really impressed.