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    • Mike

      Ongoing DDoS Attack causing Forum Slowness   26/04/17

      In case you have missed the announcement, the reason that the forum has been slow at times since the minor version update the other day is due to a Denial of Service attack, brute force attack on our email, and judging by the lag with our FTP response, that too.  If you're feeling like you're experiencing a glitch in the Matrix, you're not wrong.  This is the same MO as the attack in September 2016 that occurred when we transitioned to the new version 4 of the software.  We're currently working with US and UK cyber-crime departments, who specialise in this sort of thing, and we're hopeful that we'll be able to track them down this time by using the accumulated evidence already held.    We are pretty certain that it's a continuation of the same attack last year, only at a reduced intensity to deter people from using the site "because it's terribly slow", rather than taking it down completely, and we're also sure of the motivations of those responsible.  Spite.   Please bear with us in the interim, and wish us luck in dealing with these.... "people".


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About Schwarz-Brot

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  1. Roy, what about etching those thin pieces?
  2. As far as I know Imageshack offers options to adjust your images when uploading them. I am not sure, though. I always crop and compress my pictures before uploading using Gimp since webspace is expensive and PC based tools are more flexible and powerful and consistent.
  3. I can recommend Not free, but cheap enough, add free and no Problems so far. Using the cheapest option for about a year now. Works great. Another option is This is a plain modelbuilding picture hoster. No adds, but somewhat esotheric to use. Some options don't really work which was the reason to switch to imageshack. Never used it, but in the Lego community Flickr is the way to go. Imgur Private webspace ...
  4. Those large embedded bubbles may indeed happen because of the vacuum. Have you ever seen what happens to a chocolate foam kiss under vacuum? The gas inside expands but cannot leave the cream because its' viscosity is too high. This is what I mean: You may get better results without vacuum. And some clarification: A pressure chamber does nothing normal atmospheric pressure wouldn't do to your mould or the resin. The pressure is equal all around, so it is not like pushing and squeezing just from the top. It is more like pushing from all sides equally. The effect is the inverse of the example above: The gas bubbles get compressed instead of expanded. You may run your vacuum chamber as pressure chamber with the pump connected in reverse, depending on the construction of both.
  5. Screws you might turn: - avoid moisture like the plague. A friend of mine casts bases for miniatures. He showed me what happened when he used a form that wasn't completely dry after being washed for some reason. The piece looked like soft foam. - try another resin with longer open time - stir gently to avoid getting bubbles in - pour gently to avoid trapped bubbles. - vibration plate instead of or in combination with vacuum. Said friend does everything with just a vibration plate.
  6. There's different kinds of PC fans, the most basic type is with only two leads, no pulse output. I am referring to these, as they are the easiest to work with. They are all voltage controlled and usually run at 12V DC. They can be slowed down by applying a smaller voltage. Main problem then becomes they sometimes do not start reliably any more. So maybe start with about 12V and then lower the voltage. They will still run pretty fast, and the very small ones are super noisy. That's all there is to it. You may run them from a battery (or several in series connection, to up the voltage).
  7. Wargamers and professional miniature painters almost exclusively use waterbased acrylic paints. Some do enhance their highlighting with oil paints, but this is more common with painters of larger scale miniatures like yours.
  8. I owned a 2001 Opel Omega Station Wagon... Was my first car. Damn, I miss it. May very well happen I'll get me another one some time in the future. The Omega B is still a pretty usual sight, the A not so much.
  9. That's what I call rapid progress! Nice painting on the fenders.
  10. Yeah, you're right Christian. Pretty fiddly with super small parts. Those are usually first glued when painting miniatures. @Borez, please do a test first on a piece that's not important at all! I am not exactly sure (but confident) the white metal MFH uses is the same as miniature makers use. The brass brush is probably not going to work on PE parts.
  11. Miniature painters sometimes polish their (white metal...) soldiers with a Dremel and brass brushes like this: gives a very shiny surface without destroying detail. Maybe worth a try before buying a tumbler. Though it seems to work really well.
  12. @Pouln, I know Ohms law. The problem is - we don't have a fixed resistance. The solution most likely changes it's electrical capabilities over time and the resistance is going to change from piece to piece. So with a voltage supply (as opposed to a current supply) you'll dial in an ever changing current. It wouldn't be reproducable at all. I don't think a different current will make a difference with Nickel plating, so it is no important point. Eloxadizing Aluminium for example is extremely dependent on constant and repeatable currents (and many other factors as well), else you'd get a different colouring (or grey) every time.
  13. Well, we would need to know more about the solution the electrodes are placed in. Not worth the effort. The supply only can deliver 12W. I guess the "controller" just makes sure you don't draw more than 1A, which is the maximum the supply is rated for. So it would be anything inbetween next to nix and a maximum of 1A. I am kind of surprised you get a really thick layer deposed on the material. Good to know!
  14. Kind of weird to regulate a current driven process by selecting the voltage. Do you know which currents you actually produce?
  15. Some nice stipling going on there.