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About Schwarz-Brot

  • Birthday 09/21/1985

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  1. Makes me wonder what model your new printer is? The print quality is excellent! While I'm not around here anymore too often and won't be anytime soon (Toddler, real car, house with garden and a job to pay it all...) I still follow the progress of your model. The updates never fail to amaze me.
  2. There are two things that come to mind seeing this: First possibility: backlash in both, your X and Y Axis. Every few layers it seems like the printer changes the direction of laying the filament - or maybe every layer, depending on your layer heights. This might be anything from a loose connection between your driving shafts and (if applicable) the pulleys for the respective belts to ultra cheap belts which do no longer match the pitch of the pulleys due to having been overly stretched in the past or worn out over time. Anything in the Drivetrain that shows a bit of backlash is a problem in this usecase. Go and wiggle every part to find it. Including the extruding head! Second possibility: A periodic distortion of the printers frame coming from the movement of the Z-Axis might lead to the same stepping effect. Most likely to happen if you have a lead screw for z-movement. In this case the screw probably is bent or runs excentrically and transfers force via mounting points or bearings. This can lead to a periodically distorted frame which effects the placement of the X-Y Drivetrains relative to your printbed.
  3. Not wasted for nothing. You were simply warming up to do an even better job. The detail you put into your models and the quality of your research leaves me speechless all the time. A pleasure to follow!
  4. Instead of superglue I tend to use quick setting 2k epoxy glues. Much stronger and not so brittle. Alternatively the UV-cured epoxy glues work very well and are nearly as quick as using modeling glue.
  5. The important thing is to pull with steady force, but you probably know that. You'll get sections of quite equal diameter, but indeed longer sections are quite hit and miss. At these sizes I personally would opt for copper wire in the desired size. Cheap and readily available. Holds the given shape and is not too easily deformed when working on the model as soldering wire would be.
  6. Look for two pole precision pin header. Pitch looks like 2,54mm, but might be 1,27. Readily available at any electronics distributor.
  7. I think they will do in the future. Thank you for your opinion!
  8. That is really beautiful. Thought of preordering it, but money was needed elsewhere. Maybe I'll get me one when I finally can come back to modelling. What do you think about the qualitiy? Is it worth the money, or much fiddling required to get it right as is often the case with resin kits?
  9. Gloss, decals, gloss is also quite common. Maybe this is what they are doing?
  10. I am quite impressed how many car kits are out there I have not the smallest interest in. More muscle in there than in any given gym. Some love collecting boxes, some love building. My stash at the moment has 4 boxes... But these are quite the other end of the spectrum... Bandai Millenium Falcon 1/72. a very large Revell Tigermeet Helicopter that I got for christmas or birthday when I was still into that kind of stuff. Never started and probably should sell. Pocher F40 1/8. the respective Autograph Transkit. Since I won't be able to build anything soon I am trying to resist adding to that.
  11. Being (relatively) young I don't get it as well. I didn't get it when I was a teenager and I still cannot understand it. Still - in my beginnings I built some jets and helicopters. That was before I started reflecting on the world around. On the other hand I have a love for Fantasy and Sci-Fi and did many years of painting miniatures, starting out with - of course - WARhammer... I quickly outgrew Games Workshop stuff and found my way to obscure sculptors that came into business and went out of it quite rapidly. But still, with most fantasy and sci-fi themes it is all about war. Don't know if it is any better if it is not real. At least I have no objections then. BTT - My very first was a Revell Beetle probably around the age of 12 or so. Never got finished. I was even more of a perfectionist then than I am now. Motivation stopped when I melted a huge glue-fingerprint into the ready-to-paint hood and had no idea one could polish that out. It got packed up then. I still have the shell as painting mule. All remaining parts are in my bit boxes. I could probably finish it these days to a reasonable standard if I wanted. I built some helicopters and jets in 1/72 which usually I could buy from pocket money. Many got finished, all of them I butchered for parts for my miniatures later. The hull is usually all that still remains as mule. Cars and trucks I usually got as presents. Especially trucks with their magic airbrush work were something I lustered after. I started most of them but stopped all at some point when I felt I wasn't able to tackle the next step. All these kits I finished a few years ago. My interests have changed quite much since when I got them, so I showed them a while in my bookcases, then butchered them for parts.
  12. Can be done, but the results usually require lots of cleanup. Some professional software as well as hardware is out there that helps a lot and costs a lot as well. There are open source options, but the overhead of cleaning up the files always let me go back to draw the parts right away. Cheapish consumer options I have not tried. One thing one must understand is that you can only scan what your camera(s) can see in a straight line. So any overhang kills all the information that lies underneath and the software cannot correct for that, so assumes closed surfaces.
  13. Printers and the respective software and slicers usually love and expect .stl files.
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