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About Schwarz-Brot

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  • Birthday 09/21/1985

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  1. I always enjoy collections that are built around a common theme. This really is brilliant, and I love that sense of humor. If the falcon was listed it has a rightful place in that display! Nicely built and finished as well.
  2. Man, I wish I had a time machine on hand, too. I just thought I read something about building Pochers and MFH and fitment the other day. Never mind, looking forward to the struggles of getting an ancient Pocher to look like a decent model. It's always entertaining and educating to see those parts wrangled into acceptable behaviour. Good luck.
  3. FEP is a must. LCDs do get dirty, scratched or simply die, but that is not a part I'd lay on the side. The Lighting units also might die over time, but again I wouldn't care about spares. Usually all spares can be ordered from china when needed. Only reason to have a spare at hand would be when printing comercially with quite a lot of printing. But in this Case I'd opt for more printers running simultaniously as cheap as they are and not bother with replacement parts.
  4. Your Builds are a masterclass in Airbrush and weathering work. You show stunning results and I almost always bookmark your threads for later reference. This one is no difference. Thank you for the detailed pictures and explanation!
  5. It's probably due to age. I stored mine in the fridge for some years before I got rid of it as I got used to other materials. A little heat helps to make it soft. Less of the hardener also helps to make it softer. It also becomes more sticky in the first phase.
  6. While on the electrical engineering side the Linux world is quite well equipped with KiCAD and several other very good tools I'm afraid the mechanical CAD side is only just beginning to grow... Blender works perfectly, but is no CAD system. Still very useful for modelling! OpenSCAD and FreeCAD are your choices. Probably anything else in a VM, just like it always was. I know the problem and indeed CAD- and Photo work made me setup a powerful Windows machine again. After several years on Linux it is still feeling wrong.
  7. 85€ it was because "the box is damaged". Well it was. But the only damage I could find was the shipping labels and stuff taped onto it when sent to the first customer. They should know better by now. But in the end I don't care about boxes and am very happy with the price I paid. The parts are large, casting quality is not what I'd expect on first glance with such an expensive plastic kit, but I know Franzis quality never was worth its money, so I was prepared for that. It will get stowed away and probably will be built when my son is old enough and interested. Being a working model this shoul
  8. If the material is metal take it as is and re-tap as M3. If it is plastic drill out quite large, glue in a round, carefully redrill this. Or fill up with 2k epoxie and redrill. You might even epoxie the screw in place. Or epoxie a threaded rod in place and secure the part with a nut. Many more ways possible.
  9. I have one little thing that disturbs me (just a little, to be honest): The heat shrink tubing on the fuel lines is lettered. Coming from an electrical background it is just too obvious to me this is "just" heat shrink. I personally would have gone for a piece without markings. You know, I just needed a reason to post, and I hate to post without offering some critique. I had to search for something... Outstanding work, and as always so much to learn. I am very glad you share your tricks in such detail. I bookmark all your builds for reference for a reason. Stay
  10. Pure gold. I really miss white metal miniatures.
  11. AFAIK these are ceramic coated. I have seen some real ones on the bug eye which are usually white on the real rally cars.
  12. Most of these pieces are exact Copies of Lego parts. Even the electronics...
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