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Schwarz-Brot

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About Schwarz-Brot

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  • Birthday 09/21/1985

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    Germany

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  1. Kibri does very good kits. I've built some for my dad. Perfect fitment, no flash and well thought out construction. Good and very crisp detail. Though it is really typical for railway kits to come with stickers. Usually all the parts do come in their respective colours as well. Seems like painting and decalling is not for the mainstream train enthusiast. This is the same with the building kits I got to build.
  2. Just a short heads-up. I'm only visiting sporadic because of an unplanned move. This year water seems to be my curse. My current flat has water damage in the sleeping room, so we decided to move. The house is not ready yet, so I'll be moving again in about half a year. Well, why not... I won't have internet anytime soon, so I'll only visit when I have a few minutes on the phone. So if there's anyone trying to interact with me, please use PMs and be patient! I'll get back to you, I'll be back. Now taking down the PC...
  3. Hard to find something I've seen here and there. As far as I remember this one was done with contrasting colours on the same surface, though not on purpose. http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/2015/11/step-by-step-narok.html Roman is a master of every contrast possible from bright to dark, desaturated to saturated, colour, warmth, you name it... And he is using his knowledge very well to create true art on his 3d-canvas. Figure painters often use a two-colour approach to prepare their miniatures: Prime in black, then hit with white primer from the direction of the imagined light source. This way setting the overall light situation in a very easy way and pushing the overall contrast with a basic dark-bright contrast. Basically this is nothing else then preshading on a larger scale. You need to know that in advanced figure painting usually the light situation is fully painted, unlike in classic modelling where usually a diffuse even lighting like a cloudy day is "simulated". The paint used by figure painters is often not very opaque, many use "blending" to achieve smooth colour transitions. Think of working with a multitude of coloured filters, applied layer by layer to build up the final saturation. With this approach the desaturated - saturated contrast is possible, though only few use this to push the overall contrast (Roman is one of them). Usually this is used to guide the eye to some important areas, the face, or maybe a magic spellbook, a little hidden detail in the sculpt in a rather undefined area. I have seen some tutorials where the shadows were enhanced by painting a contrasting colour to the later visible colour. Then the overall global colour was applied all over. Remember, like a filter. While binding all together, the shadows become very moody and vivid because of the contrasting colour. They also are more saturated then the brighter colour, so "make these pop" even more. This is also typically used to paint beardshadows. Basically before the face is painted the beard is sketched in with a blue, then painted over with the skintones. It of course also works the other way around - paint the whole face, then add a very thinned down blue or even green to add the effect. Can be seen on this one by me: http://www.coolminiornot.com/396737?browseid=8736693 Generally the coolminiornot gallery is a great place for inspiration if you filter for the higher rated miniatures. Though you'll find 99% fantasy and scifi figures.
  4. Haven't seen this with classic models, yet. Though I know the technique is used by some of the best figure painters to set the overall mood of a miniature or to guide the eye to important areas. I feel the effect you achieved is subtle but gives a very vivid look to the model without looking out of scale or unrealistic. Good job!
  5. Mr C, Duplicolor do many paint ranges. Don't know which types you can get your hands on over the pond. They do anything from waterbased acrylics to laquer and enamels. Since Dan gave no more information I'd guess he uses the enamel range which is the usual stuff you'll find in hardware stores. At least here in Germany, so I'd expect this to be the same for mainland Europe. The enamels do adhere very well on almost anything as long as it is properly degreased. Had not much luck with their acrylic range, though. Adhesion was great, but the finish wasn't.
  6. Could you please provide a link? Bilge pumps which I found were all to suck out water. Probably this is a naming thing, but I don't know what I am looking for in German.
  7. My highest respect for your CAD work. My dayjob is mainly CAD engineering and I know exactly how hard it is to get 3d-splines just right, especially if you're trying to copy a real thing. Thank god my job rarely involves freeform work but mainly square parts. every now and then I've got to work with freeform models supplied by customers. More often then not these make me want to cry. In my spare time I dabble a little with freeform-modelling of real things to get the hang of it. But it really is not easy for me to let go of exact dimensions. I'm caught in the Inventor / Fusion net, since Inventor is what I daily work with. Fusion is a bit simpler for freeform work, the full blown Inventor not so much.
  8. wow - just wow. I would not have been patient enough to pull this off! All those trials must have cost a ton of time. I love the result and ask, if I may, how you achieved the ever increasing length on the side? Stamping several times side by side? Hard to believe this is achieved with such simple tools. No hiding for any of us - you are the proof no expensive tool is needed for high end scratch building. Just patience and ingenuity.
  9. The metalwork looks stunning. Too bad it hides many of these fine details. But then again, it is beautiful in its own right, so too bad it will be hidden under the bodywork.
  10. stil following and liking it! Good to see an update
  11. I simply use nail art files - the amazon stuff - in the rougher grades. For even rougher work I don't see the need to use foam-backed files. So I use wooden coffee-stirrers with glued-on sanding paper. Works pretty well and is dirt cheap.
  12. Love the details these kits show. And it is a brave move to chop up such an expensive kit in search for detail and realism only few would even notice. Are the 3d-printed wheels supplied with the kit or are these aftermarket parts? I always thought MFH wheels had to be done with wire. The suspension looks to be mainly white metal? How strong is it? Did you paint these parts as well?
  13. Wise colorchoice and magnificient effect with the large metallic flakes. Well done!
  14. I can not recommend to go all in on a single manufacturer of colours. They all have their qualities, but none is perfect for everything. For example I can highly recommend the Citadel Inks. Vallejo not so much. But then there is that magic Vallejo Game Color "Smokey Ink" which works wonders to any basic paintjob... Citadel colour bottles are a pain to work with. Some of their paints are really, really good, though. Beige and the likes are often hard colours to work with. Some of the Artist ranges offer some better choices. Thinking of W&N, Schmincke and the likes. Same goes for yellows and reds. I personally prefer Acrylics for airbrush use. Vallejo Model Air is the perfect consistency to be used with a brush on a figure. Their Model Color Range gives you lots of realistic colors, but these behave sometimes strange if mixed with usual acrylics. They seem to be formulated a bit different. Vallejo Game Color was initially made as an 1:1 alternative to the Citadel Colors, so the range matched these quite well back then, but the quality isn't equal for all paints. I haven't used newer Citadel paints, so cannot say much in that direction. Lately I used especially artists airbrush colours, but these requiere lots of mixing as the paints are way to brilliant for figure painting straight from the bottle. Then again you'll find no better red or yellow. What I'm trying to say - if you struggle to achieve the results you're after it isn't always your skills. With waterbased acrylics you are free to mix and match whatever works for you. And you should! No reason to fall for a single brand. In some cases you can even get away with craft store paints (and I know I'll take some beating for saying it out loud...). Blue and green tones are usually not problematic. With problematic paints it is worth to try high-end artist supplies. More expensive, but less struggle.
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