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Schwarz-Brot

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About Schwarz-Brot

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  • Birthday 09/21/1985

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    Germany

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  1. uh, didn't look into Warhammer for quite a while. So Slaanesh is coming back to the table? Maybe I should take a look again.
  2. At work we sometimes print on high gloss adhesive with a silver surface. This stuff is very thick and it always seems to not work properly. The toner rubs off very easily. A service technician told us the fusing process wasn't working and helped us out. The trick that solved it for us was setting up the printer for very thick transparency sheets via driver. Then we dialed in a higher-than-normal temperature and also slowed down the fusing speed in the printers config for that type of medium. The paper is VERY hot when it comes out, but the toner is fused as it should. We have a pretty high-endish Kyocera printer. The adjustments are hidden deep inside the printers configuration. AFAIK they cannot be made via driver setup. HTH.
  3. That's a huge difference! I never seem to be able to sand my paint that smooth. I'll rub through way too fast.
  4. I for sure will follow this. Is the progress on the real car posted somewhere? Would totally love to follow that, too!
  5. A really beautiful car I didn't even know about. It's gonna be a long way to turn this into a diamond, but I'm sure you'll get there. I'll watch this topic closely, so much to learn here!
  6. This, or just simple 2k-Glue. The one I use (Uhu) dries clear and becomes extremely strong but won't flow. Contacta clear won't flow either. You might get lucky with thinner or acetone. Find something that melts the mesh. Maybe you can find something that also melts the structural parts. If not, roughen them up to give some key and melt the mesh into place. That's what I would try, not tested!
  7. Ed, this is very valuable information. Thank you for sharing. I guess my next diy project should be a pressure chamber... This seems to work really well. Also thank you to Jackman for digging up that infomercial.
  8. Cutting with a knive and slowly sawing resin by hand is no concern since you produce large chips. Working with power tools should be done outside and with a good mask fit for that purpose. Sanding work can be done literally under water and produces no airborne dust that way - just do that work in a large bowl of water. Of course this is messy, so maybe no splashing for the living room, but works very well in the kitchen. As a bonus you don't have to wait till the weather is right.
  9. Somehow I missed out big time on this thread, had a whole lot to look through. Seems like spring is a squiggy-season. Love it! Goblins and especially squig-herders and riders are an all-time favourite of mine. So cool, so crazy. And you absolutely get them right. Keep 'em coming!
  10. blast from the past. Haven't seen a squig for quite a while. Lovely. The Empires troops never where my cup of tea, though your winged lancers are for sure some of the more impressive models. Do you intend to bring these to the table? I am sure that would be a good looking session.
  11. Since this is one of my dreamcars I'll probably be able to own as a 1:1 I got me the very same kit. I'll follow closely, if I may.
  12. The easiest way would be not to lock the spindle but to add a flat surface to your probably selfmade tool. Then add a guide for that surface to your toolbase, so your tool has to lean against it. In the case of a selfmade louvre stamping tool a slot could also work as a guide. @Dan, thank you again for the information!
  13. Regarding white glue: I personally use a modern variation of bookbinders glue. This is as I understand it the same as carpenters glue, PVA, white glue or whatever you want to call it. It is the waterproof variety, but with added adhesion for glossy surfaces. The one I use for bookbinding and modelbuilding is "Planatol BB". Can be washed out and thinned with water as long as it is not hardened. Stays pretty flexible and dries to a clear, glossy finish. You should be able to get this at bookbinders suppliers in Belgium. In Germany white PVA-Glue is typically called "Leim" or "Holzleim". You should be able to find something like that in any diy-store. In Belgium you'll probably be able to get Pattex Holzleim or Ponal Holzleim, there's even a quick-drying variant: https://www.gerstaecker.at/Ponal-Express-Holzleim-Kleber.html Those are the big names in germany, there are countless no-name products out there. You'll have something similar in Belgium. Hope that helps.
  14. Dan, I follow your every step and am impressed all the time, though I do not comment on a regular basis. So just thank you. For taking your time to share your process, for documenting your jigs and procedures, not just the finished product. There is so much to be learned here, and I am glad to follow. A few posts above you mentioned you sandblast the metal parts to avoid painting. This stuck in my head and I want to ask - do you use a sandblasting chamber, or do you work with something like an air eraser? What do you use as an abrasive? The effect is really nice. Thank you, Jan
  15. My first try was with brush, recreating the box art / the then new movies. Worked ok, but the snake-like body has next to no texture. While this shadow like appereance works great in the movies it does not look too impressive as a static model. Trying to highlight a nearly black miniature without texture didn't work out too well either. So it went to the shelf of doom for several years until I restarted using my airbrush. Now it is in black primer again and partly started with a little green and red worked into the wings to go for a generic fantasy dragon look. Not too happy with this either, as it is not what one expects. This model is easily recognizable, so the movie colours are kind of a must. Next I'll try a pure black and white version with only a little colour bleeding in from the edges of the base, so a more arty look. We'll see where this leads me.
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