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About Schwarz-Brot

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  • Birthday 09/21/1985

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  1. THE supercar of my youth besides the mighty F40 and XJ220. I always loved that nicely blended spoiler. You did a very modern colour combination for a car of that era. Not a bad decision I think. It takes the car to recent times. Nice Shine, btw.
  2. You should be. Tedious work but looking beautiful, so well worth it.
  3. My Lady lusts after a cameo, too. Now I don't have any excuses left to not get her one
  4. There's several things that are probably working together here. I would guess you are using waterbased acrylics like citadel, vallejo (not model color!), army painter and the likes. These need to be shaken like crazy. And I mean crazy crazy. I highly suggest dropping a small nut or bearing-ball into the bottles and then shake it, baby. If you really can't get anywhere try sticking the bottle to the blade of a reciprocating saw with generous amounts of tape and let it rattle for a few minutes. If you have paint-pots you can try using a toothpick to take up some pigment from the bottom without stirring or shaking first. A friend of mine let his paints deliberately dry out quite a bit to a paste like thicknes... Drop a blob on your palette and start thinning from there. With dropper bottles you can try storing an offending one upside down, so the slugde settles in the dropper and comes out first ( never did that, but worth a try). Now that you have access to the real pigments, the next step is thinning. First I'd try with pure paint. If you get brushstrokes or an obviously thick coverage thin it. But very, very slowly - add your thinning medium of choice one drop at a time or even a brushtip at a time. Try again, until you find your perfect consistency. There's several variables, again. If you use tap water from a cup, half a drop of dishwashing liquid into that cup helps to release surface tension, thus giving you a better flow of paint, helping against brushstrokes. If it runs into every nook and won't stay on the surface there's two possibilities: Paint overthinned and probably underground too smooth. I tend to thin to about the consistency I need with water and add a bit of matte medium and sometimes glaze medium. Next call would be primer. Primer is not for covering the whole model evenly, it is to provide some theeth. Put on too much and you receive a glossy mess without any detail left. With sprayprimer only a dusting is needed and suggested. That probably won't be your problem. I tend to brush-prime black with Vallejo surface primer. I know that stuff isn't really loved by many, but for me it's perfect, as it combines priming and basecoting in one step. Plus it shrinks like crazy, so you can slop it on heavily without losing detail. The surface is smooth, but not too smooth - perfect for even layers. Sorastro has a great video on using this stuff on youtube. To get you started you can experiment with spray primer. Give the miniature a dust coat, so you get a really rough surface (don't mind the coverage - that's what your paint is for!). With these teeth the paint won't flow even when it's slightly too thin. On to brushes. I cannot paint evenly with synthetic brushes, but that maybe just me. Price is not a sign of quality. The form, stiffness and volume of the brush matter. Winsor & Newton Series 7 (standard - not the short ones!) are perfect, but expensive. You can get decent cheap brushes in hobby stores. You probably use a too small brush. What you want is a larger one with a nice belly to hold up some amount of paint. You don't need small brushes for nothing, what you really need is a sharp tip. So take care it stays sharp. Use brush soap after every painting session. If you still have problems, treat yourself to a single pot of high end artist airbrush paint like Schmincke Aero Color. Make sure it's an opaque one. Practice with this color - it takes away the huge variable of thinning as it can be brushpainted straight from the pot. Black undercoats and bright colours are a poor combination. If you think you NEED black, give your bright colours a basecoat with a color that covers evenly with a single layer. Usually a very bright grey with the slightest hint of blue will work very well - Vallejo Ghost grey and vallejo wolf grey come to mind.
  5. Yes, there is. It is closely related to Stockholm syndrome. You are a mental wreck already, but too busy on your Pocher to realize it. Typical behaviour is buying more Pochers or diving into even more advanced builds.
  6. If you do not plan on sticking with modelling, I'd suggest the spraycan route, it'll probably be cheaper. Airbrushing has an high initial cost and a learning curve. The possibilities are more than with cans, but not worth it for a model every now and then, in my book. Small parts and many effects are most efficiently painted with a hairy stick. Detailpainting as well.
  7. Obviously an engineer! I like your approach to problem solving. Great start so far. Codger is probably right about not messing with stuff you'll never ever want to be used. But being an engineer myself I do absolutely understand the desire to make things work. Alongside his advice I'd like to add the following: Keep an eye on your painting and leave no bare kit plastic to be seen. The uninitiated won't notice wheels that sit wrong as long as both sides are symmetrical. But even my grandma spots a sloppy paintjob from a distance and knows it's wrong. The other way around - a superb paintjob blows your mind and distracts from rather big inacurracies.
  8. That would be the ancient "bone folder", commonly used in bookbinding. Look at bookbinding suppliers if you need one. Very useful tool for any kind of folding and creasing of weak materials. Cheap.
  9. Could you maybe drill and insert some pegs temporarily to route the lines, then remove the pegs again and install the perfectly shaped copper? That's what I'd try, as I know any detail I'd add there before having the right shape would be destroyed by me not being careful enough.
  10. Could you share the link, please? Looks like fun!
  11. Thanks for your opinion on the quality. I know resin kits are usually a lot of work and not for the average OOB builder. But I love the opportunities they give us as they cover topics no strictly commercial company could reasonably tackle. Seeing resin models being built to a high standard, I constantly have to stop myself from filling up my stash. Then again I remind me I don't even have time and place for a simple OOB-build these days. Every piece of modelling equipment is packed up in boxes. Even if I had the room to unpack some of it I couldn't justify spending time and money on doing so right now. Meeh.
  12. Happy birthday, happy bunny! Finally a booth with decent lighting
  13. Is it just me, or did the Bluebird look better right from the start? The Auto Union is also looking better to me, from a quality perspective. Though its grille is a bit too unevenly spaced for my liking. This one needs the J├Ârgen-treatment to become a really good model. But as I see you're on your way already. Keep pushing!
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