Niall

On RN landing craft - look for a book called "To Sea In A Sieve" By Peter Bull. The author was an actor(The Russian ambassador in Dr Strangelove is probably his best known role). The book covers his RN service, first on a lend lease American WW1 destroyer, then on another RN destroyer before transfering to landing craft, for training and operations in the Med.

The error in the name was aging memory - also I don't like the rules as they were written by someone who does not understand how sailing ships work! Many years ago I saw some stunning 1/600th scale models made by Derrick Hunnisett. He used streched copper wire(taken from electric cables) for the rigging. This would be stiffer than thread or elastic, if wire from an old USB cable was used it would be thinner than guitar string.

Not about rigging thread but I'm working on designs for PE ratlines, top sails, driver and jib for the Warlord Games. Here is a screenshot of the design for the 74 - Black areas are not etched, yellow are front 1/4 etched and green are front and back 1/4 etched.

When using letters like that put a strip of masking tape at the bottom and place the letters touching the tape, then add a little liquid cement at the top of each letter. Remove the tape and add liquid cement at the bottom of each letter. Have you seen this web site? - https://davecov.org/davecov/davecov-airfix-magazine-articles/ There are 4 articles on Leander class frigates.

The photo is of a batch 3 ship, which were not built with VDS. I think the hole is for mooring or towing cables. I've only seen the spelling "Dido"

Andy's Hobby Headquarters has just announced 2 new 1/16 scale kits - an M10 with an American army figure and an Achilles with a British army figure. Link to announcement video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1SP5qdcKXUU&t=720s These are available for pre order for the end of October.

I'm almost positive that they are all the same, if you buy a replacement they do not specify a model its for.

Home made transfers on white inkjet(or laser printer) transfer film would be one solution. Alternatively make a PE stencil, which would cost about £30.

The Russian have an equivalent to Giant Viper - the UR77 - a 2s1 self propelled gun hull with a fixed housing for 2 line charges firing forwards. Link to Wikipedia - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UR-77_Meteorit Mine ploughs will detonate anti-personel mines. In desert storm the British army also used a magnetic mine exploder on Cheirtain AVRE and AVLB's. This was a metal frame on the vehicle's glassis plate which was a powerful electro-magnet which would detonate anti-tank mines several feet in front of the vehicle.

I use a spray gloss acrylic varnish on transfers I've made, then a matt coat if needed. Matt varnish does not work on its own. Alternatively it is possible to hand make transfers. Paitn gloss varnish onto the gummed side of a gummed paper label(the sort you wet to apply). Then draw and paint the design on the varnished surface. Numbers and letters can be add from rubdown letters like those Letraset used to make. I used this method to do the registration numbers on the model in the photo below -

Short video of a test shot(Sound is rather loud though) -

I've got the following files(I think from the same source) - Narn - G'Quan Class Heavy Cruiser & Frazi Class Heavy Fighter Human - Star Fury Fighter Mimbari - Nial Class Fighter If you want them PM me an email address and I'll send them to you.

If a tosion bar suspension vehicle catches fire the heat can soften the bars causing the suspension to collapse.. This was seen in knocked out T72's in Desert Storm.

One tip - On Youtube select subtitles, pause the video, go to settings and select translate -> English for English subtitles and press play.

Go old school - Paint the dial white, then black and using a pin scratch the dial numbers and pointer(s) through the black with the white showing through. Then glaze with gloss varnish.