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Everything posted by Schwarz-Brot

  1. Makes me wonder what model your new printer is? The print quality is excellent! While I'm not around here anymore too often and won't be anytime soon (Toddler, real car, house with garden and a job to pay it all...) I still follow the progress of your model. The updates never fail to amaze me.
  2. There are two things that come to mind seeing this: First possibility: backlash in both, your X and Y Axis. Every few layers it seems like the printer changes the direction of laying the filament - or maybe every layer, depending on your layer heights. This might be anything from a loose connection between your driving shafts and (if applicable) the pulleys for the respective belts to ultra cheap belts which do no longer match the pitch of the pulleys due to having been overly stretched in the past or worn out over time. Anything in the Drivetrain that shows a bit of backlash is a problem in this usecase. Go and wiggle every part to find it. Including the extruding head! Second possibility: A periodic distortion of the printers frame coming from the movement of the Z-Axis might lead to the same stepping effect. Most likely to happen if you have a lead screw for z-movement. In this case the screw probably is bent or runs excentrically and transfers force via mounting points or bearings. This can lead to a periodically distorted frame which effects the placement of the X-Y Drivetrains relative to your printbed.
  3. Not wasted for nothing. You were simply warming up to do an even better job. The detail you put into your models and the quality of your research leaves me speechless all the time. A pleasure to follow!
  4. Instead of superglue I tend to use quick setting 2k epoxy glues. Much stronger and not so brittle. Alternatively the UV-cured epoxy glues work very well and are nearly as quick as using modeling glue.
  5. The important thing is to pull with steady force, but you probably know that. You'll get sections of quite equal diameter, but indeed longer sections are quite hit and miss. At these sizes I personally would opt for copper wire in the desired size. Cheap and readily available. Holds the given shape and is not too easily deformed when working on the model as soldering wire would be.
  6. Look for two pole precision pin header. Pitch looks like 2,54mm, but might be 1,27. Readily available at any electronics distributor.
  7. I think they will do in the future. Thank you for your opinion!
  8. That is really beautiful. Thought of preordering it, but money was needed elsewhere. Maybe I'll get me one when I finally can come back to modelling. What do you think about the qualitiy? Is it worth the money, or much fiddling required to get it right as is often the case with resin kits?
  9. Gloss, decals, gloss is also quite common. Maybe this is what they are doing?
  10. I am quite impressed how many car kits are out there I have not the smallest interest in. More muscle in there than in any given gym. Some love collecting boxes, some love building. My stash at the moment has 4 boxes... But these are quite the other end of the spectrum... Bandai Millenium Falcon 1/72. a very large Revell Tigermeet Helicopter that I got for christmas or birthday when I was still into that kind of stuff. Never started and probably should sell. Pocher F40 1/8. the respective Autograph Transkit. Since I won't be able to build anything soon I am trying to resist adding to that.
  11. Being (relatively) young I don't get it as well. I didn't get it when I was a teenager and I still cannot understand it. Still - in my beginnings I built some jets and helicopters. That was before I started reflecting on the world around. On the other hand I have a love for Fantasy and Sci-Fi and did many years of painting miniatures, starting out with - of course - WARhammer... I quickly outgrew Games Workshop stuff and found my way to obscure sculptors that came into business and went out of it quite rapidly. But still, with most fantasy and sci-fi themes it is all about war. Don't know if it is any better if it is not real. At least I have no objections then. BTT - My very first was a Revell Beetle probably around the age of 12 or so. Never got finished. I was even more of a perfectionist then than I am now. Motivation stopped when I melted a huge glue-fingerprint into the ready-to-paint hood and had no idea one could polish that out. It got packed up then. I still have the shell as painting mule. All remaining parts are in my bit boxes. I could probably finish it these days to a reasonable standard if I wanted. I built some helicopters and jets in 1/72 which usually I could buy from pocket money. Many got finished, all of them I butchered for parts for my miniatures later. The hull is usually all that still remains as mule. Cars and trucks I usually got as presents. Especially trucks with their magic airbrush work were something I lustered after. I started most of them but stopped all at some point when I felt I wasn't able to tackle the next step. All these kits I finished a few years ago. My interests have changed quite much since when I got them, so I showed them a while in my bookcases, then butchered them for parts.
  12. Can be done, but the results usually require lots of cleanup. Some professional software as well as hardware is out there that helps a lot and costs a lot as well. There are open source options, but the overhead of cleaning up the files always let me go back to draw the parts right away. Cheapish consumer options I have not tried. One thing one must understand is that you can only scan what your camera(s) can see in a straight line. So any overhang kills all the information that lies underneath and the software cannot correct for that, so assumes closed surfaces.
  13. Printers and the respective software and slicers usually love and expect .stl files.
  14. Only yet I started visiting britmodeller again. For many personal reasons I couldn't do that for several months. I wondered why I wouldn't read any posts by Mr. C and was mildly alarmed. Then by chance I fell over a comment on Rons thread and was really concerned. I headed over to the Sedanca sticky thread only to find my way here... This is really sad news to me. I was looking forward to getting back into my conversations with Chas. I don't think there are many gentlemen like him around these days. Always willing to help, always friendly, no matter what happened. I know Mr. C had many interests besides modelling and was always eager to share his passion and experiences. He would take the time to explain in detail again and again if only you asked - until you fully understood his point. His patience in this regard was as endless as his patience when chasing his vision. Even his wording was always elaborate. We all have lost a great mentor and a very supportive member of this community. The biggest ambassador of large scale car modelling one can imagine. Even more like a preacher at times - you car modellers know, what I mean. I know I will miss his guidance and the countless references he always had on hand. Thank you, Mr. C, Codger, Chas... Rest in peace my friend. Jan @silver911 thank you for posting these bad news and making sure this thread would be found. Very thoughtful. I have no contact with codgers family, so I would never have known what happened if you had not informed us.
  15. Plastic cannot be electroplated since for the process you need a surface that conducts electricity. This can be overcome by first painting a layer of conductive paint, but that will eat up some detail. I'm not sure you can electroplate gold with homebrew methods since you need carrier solution. Next problem is getting the the plating even on all surfaces. I am pretty sure leaf gilding would give far superiour results. The material isn't too expensive and applying it is possible with care and patience. Weight won't be a problem with neither method. Polished surfaces will probably out of reach. Probably you'll get better answers by asking a goldsmith.
  16. I always enjoy collections that are built around a common theme. This really is brilliant, and I love that sense of humor. If the falcon was listed it has a rightful place in that display! Nicely built and finished as well.
  17. Man, I wish I had a time machine on hand, too. I just thought I read something about building Pochers and MFH and fitment the other day. Never mind, looking forward to the struggles of getting an ancient Pocher to look like a decent model. It's always entertaining and educating to see those parts wrangled into acceptable behaviour. Good luck.
  18. FEP is a must. LCDs do get dirty, scratched or simply die, but that is not a part I'd lay on the side. The Lighting units also might die over time, but again I wouldn't care about spares. Usually all spares can be ordered from china when needed. Only reason to have a spare at hand would be when printing comercially with quite a lot of printing. But in this Case I'd opt for more printers running simultaniously as cheap as they are and not bother with replacement parts.
  19. Your Builds are a masterclass in Airbrush and weathering work. You show stunning results and I almost always bookmark your threads for later reference. This one is no difference. Thank you for the detailed pictures and explanation!
  20. It's probably due to age. I stored mine in the fridge for some years before I got rid of it as I got used to other materials. A little heat helps to make it soft. Less of the hardener also helps to make it softer. It also becomes more sticky in the first phase.
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