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About AgentG

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  • Birthday September 29

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    Las Vegas Nevada

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  1. Help me build a Sherman

    Nearly every single Sherman Vc came from Chrysler wearing T62 tracks. The T62 became known as "British track" as almost all of the M4A4 production was exported. These were all steel tracks, no rubber at all, inside or out. Painting them in a dark rust with bright wear points will be correct. The area on the inside where the road wheels contact the track will also be free of rust. As a side note, the T-49 three bar cleat track seen above was most prevalent on US Army tracks in the Pacific and Italy. It was designed for maximum traction or where a rubber track would be subject to great wear. The major immediately visible difference between the T 54E1 and T62 was the three rivet heads on the road face of the T62. In this scale the provided tracks will be just fine. T-62 T-54E1 Photos from this wonderful website http://the.shadock.free.fr/sherman_minutia/tracks/vvss_tracks.html G
  2. Easy 8

    Not bad at all. You have a grasp as to where the dirt would be either from use weather or crew traffic. A couple of things if I may. The wartime Olive Drab paint was extremely tough and resilient to wear and chipping. You would never see bare metal exposed unless done so by extreme force, i.e. a shell hit. Even bullets didn't mar the paint much. The area you have painted white on the barrel was actually bare metal. That is the recoil area of the barrel and had to remain unpainted due to close tolerances between the barrel and the mantlet. Don't forget to paint the glass prisms in the TC's cupola. Clear blue will look great. Make sure they remain glossy. Overall a good effort! G
  3. Hobby Boss Nagmachon APC (early)

    Interesting color comparisons. I have always mixed Tamiya XF-49 and XF-20 in various ratios to achieve the more modern color. Adding various quantities Buff XF-57, gave me the earlier color. Spraying this over a dark gray auto primer from a can gave good results. I recently took possession of the Real Color "DAK" set and am anxious to use them. In the jar they appear to be close matches to the RAL shades. G
  4. IDF M51 Batch Four.

    Well done sir. The presentation of welding is quite good. It is very subjective to say the least. I have a photo of an M50 turret which appears to have no welding at all across the top seam of the turret's rear extension. Some of the side welds are spot on to what you have depicted though. G Here's what I am referring to. G
  5. 1/35 T-34/85 Tank

    Very well done sir! G
  6. Ahnenerbe

    Thank you all! This was a fun one to construct. G
  7. Cold War Armour Group Builds

    I'll join the T-55 group build as well. G
  8. M4A2 in PTO

    Typical of US Marines, always going in circles........... G
  9. M4A2 in PTO

    The tanks have the split commanders hatch. The entire assembly rotated and thus had a fitting for the pintle mount cast into it. It was normally used for a .50cal. Top photo is an early-mid model of this hatch, the bottom is a late version used as a loaders hatch on a 76mm tank. In the top photo you can see the .50 cal cradle in the mount. No big deal to switch that with a .30cal mg and it's cradle.
  10. M4A2 in PTO

    I'm not seeing the photos. Disregard, it popped up! G
  11. Hesco barriers

    Here's what I'm thinking. When you look at the completed wall, the sides of the filled bastions bulge outward slightly from the weight of the filler. Take a straight piece of wood, measure off the segments and use a razor saw to cut a slight vertical crease delineating the separate segments. Carefully file and/or sand the area to a slightly rounded shape. Obtain some type of mesh and glue it relatively tightly around the sides taking care to tuck it into the aforementioned crease. Use some fine wire, wrap it around a rod of suitable diameter and cut to the appropriate length. Glue a length this spiral wire into every crease replicating the join. The actual mesh is simply galvanised wire not unlike a "chain link" fence, common here in the states. The connecting piece is simply a spiral of heavy wire. It is inserted by "screwing" it down from above between the two sections. On the top, I'd use a Dremel or similar rotary tool to carve a depression taking care to come close to the edge but leave a "lip". Then I'd spread a suitable adhesive and fill this shallow area with my choice of earth. Photos courtesy of the interweb for discussion only. G
  12. Ahnenerbe

    The figures are a set by ICM called "Henry Ford and Friends" or some such. I used some head swapping and scratchbuilding to achieve the classic villains. Detail added to the cap. Scratchbuilt holster. My own decals. Truck detail. All paint. I used tape and stencils. G
  13. I started the 1/24th scale Opel Blitz as a serious build of an Afrikakorps vehicle. I know Steve Munsell, the owner on Value Gear, and he gave me some of his new large scale additions. As the rusty wheels began turning in my head, I began to hear the theme from a popular movie. One thing led to another and I ordered a set of figures that I modified. The rest, as they say, is history. G
  14. Hesco barriers

    How about carving the entire wall section from one solid piece? Use a fine grain wood and measure off the individual sections. Carve the seams and replicate the mesh look with fine gauze or fabric. Finish off by adding gravel/litter of your choice to the tops of the visible barriers. It has to be cheaper. G