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Smithy last won the day on November 20 2012

Smithy had the most liked content!

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  1. 1/72 R.A.F. supply canisters?

    Are those the CLE canisters that you're after? A quick squizz at Hannants found this if it is CLEs you are after... https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/PAVW72039
  2. Dark Green/Dark Earth camouflage implementing date

    Actually could it not be earlier? There were 3 camouflage scheme drawings drawn up in June 1936 (AM 1157, AM1158, AM1159) for Dark Green, Dark Earth and Night to be applied on twin engined monoplanes - heavy bombers, single engine monoplanes - medium bombers, and twin engine monoplanes - medium bombers. These were applied to Harrows, Battles and Blenheims. Bomber Command isn't my big interest but maybe someone can confirm when this was first implemented on these types. I agree with that for "high speed interceptor monoplanes" the introduction wasn't until after the submission of the Air Diagram 1160 on the 25th March 1937 which obviously took some time to implement properly. Tim
  3. When were White-Night undersurfaces introduced?

    Graham is right with the first 50 to be delivered in this scheme (L1576 - L1625) which were requested from Hawker in a letter dated 8th January 1938, they subsequently started to arrive for service during April 1938. After this a request by Fighter Command was made for all Spits and Hurris to be finished in this manner. Nothing very much happened, Dowding had complained that the painting on the 50 was incorrect leaving a silver band down the middle. The next impetus came with the Munich Crisis in Sept 1938 when FC wrote to the AM for white and black under surfaces up to the middle on the fuselage. However there were concerns about aileron balance if the painting was done at unit level and the RAE suggested that ailerons be left unpainted by sqns. FC were certain that ailerons must be painted and wrote to the AM on 25th November 1938 suggesting that the black and white scheme be finished on the production line thereby sidestepping the balance issue. At a conference at the AM in December 1938, they agreed upon the acceptance of the black and white scheme on peacetime day fighters and advised FC on the 12th January 1939 that the aircraft contractors would be advised to finish relevant aircraft in the scheme. Letters to Hawkers and Supermarine were sent on the 27th January. It took some time for production aircraft to arrive in the scheme, so around spring 1939. Phew! HTH, Tim
  4. Really impressive for a first build - far better than mine when I returned! Along with Troy's suggestions, may I make a small one too? Get a small brush and paint the front of the rear view mirror on top of the canopy Dark Green the same as the rest of the canopy framing. Otherwise really well done, onto the next kit!
  5. No problem . Take your time . Thank you .



  6. Hi,

                I saw your post about the plans and technical drawings for the Type 7b . I was wondering if you could send me this information . I am hoping to build the U-83 as a mediterranean version with extended wintergarten .

    My email is :  alankelly101@hotmail.com


    Thank you



    1. Smithy


      No problem but it may take a few days. We recently shifted country and I'll have to locate which box they're in and then scan them. Hopefully you're not in a big hurry!





    2. oggy4u


      No problem , Smithy . Take your time and thank you .



  7. Rigging multi bay aircraft

    I've used wire on a 1/48 build and have used monofilament on a 1/72 build with fully drilled holes for the rigging (I've only got 2 WWI builds under my belt since returning to modelling). One big plus I found with using the drilled holes method and monofilament was that it added a lot of structural strength to the wings and undercart. Although a little daunting I really enjoyed the drilling and rigging method, there was something very rewarding about it.
  8. Shelf life of different model paints

    Another thumbs up for Humbrol enamels here. They can and will last decades so long as the lip of the tin is kept relatively paint free so the lid can be properly affixed. Saying that I've always found enamel paint to have a much longer shelf life than acrylics.
  9. Well a small update. This has been on hold for a month or so after I started trying to use Humbrol's Decalfix for the first time. I didn't bring my Micro Sol over when we shifted country and I thought I'd have a stab with the DecalFix as it was available locally. Bloody glad I only used it on the underwing port roundel as it made a mess of it - the decal cracked and shattered in places and left a rather nasty residue. I promptly went online and orderd some Micro Sol which I had to wait for. Word of warning, be very careful with Decalfix. Anyway got a fair way with the decalling today and yesterday, the underside is finished and nearly finished on the port side. Decals are a combo of kit, Carpena and DK Decals. Unfortunately DK's decals for this specific aircraft are incorrect as the serial code is wrong and it should have C roundels and later fin flash. Not a biggie to fix but a little sad as I've also seen quite a few other errors on DK's 485 Sqn sheet. A few issues to fix (I used the Tamiya Sky fuselage band decal and it needs some bedding down, plus it's quite a different shade of Sky from the codes, I'm in two minds whether I'll paint over it but we shall see), but I'm generally happy with how it's coming along. Sorry, it's not the greatest of photos but I've been banished to the basement as the hobby room has been taken over with a whole lot of a relative's things which are in transit, and the lighting is terrible in the dungeon, added to that I've never been nor will I be a master modeller but it's nice to see it coming along.
  10. Hello from Norway

    Hei og velkommen fra Norge også Thomas!
  11. Strengthening Thin Rod

    Any coating that will keep out oxygen and moisture will do the trick!
  12. To stencil, or not to stencil? - Two NMF Spits

    I'm currently decalling a 1/72 Spitfire Vb and doing all the underside stencils. Let's just say the language coming out of the man cave would make a sailor blush.
  13. Strengthening Thin Rod

    I've found that using a varnish or even Klear over any wire susceptible to oxidation completely prevents this. I have a couple of builds from over ten years ago where I've used rustable wires but treated in this manner and still no signs of any oxidation.
  14. Thinner for Humbrol enamel

    It could work but I'd test it out first on some scrap plastic. Lacquer thinners can vary greatly in formula and "hotness". I've heard of some modellers who use lacquer thinners with enamels but if it was me I'd much rather use a specific enamel thinner. As I mentioned I've found both Humbrol's own and Tamiya's enamel thinners work brilliantly with Humbrol enamel paints.
  15. Thinner for Humbrol enamel

    I have used Humbrol enamels since returning to the hobby in 2001 and have used Humbrol enamel thinner and Tamiya enamel thinner without any problems whatsoever. If you have some enamel thinners it will work. TBH I virtually never thin them now for brush painting and especially detail painting. Sometimes I find the tins (especially if they've been sitting around for awhile) need several minutes vigorous stirring to make sure the paint is well blended for painting. Cheers, Tim