Gloss entire model?

[Lysander]

Just wondering if you folks tend to put a gloss coat on the entire model before applying decals, or only the areas where decals will actually be applied.

 

I ask as obviously some models have big areas with no decals. I don't mean trying to splash gloss onto the exact area where a decal will be.

 

Sorry if it's a dumb question. I just wonder if doing this could possibly lead to an uneven surface, but on the other hand it would be easier to airbrush the gloss on if I knew I could hold the model in a few places where I didn't intend to apply the gloss coat.

 

Thanks!

[Casey]

Better to put gloss on whole surfaces, it is easier to apply the weathering and panel lines if you are up for that. But it is not strictly necessary since you can varnish the parts with decals with proper matt layer later. And some modellers here for example dip decals directly in Pledge or similar and use it as a decal softener and a gloss layer at once.

 

Glossy layer by itself is not necessary to have decals without silvering, that's a myth. I do not use anything and apply decals on matt paint, I just make sure the matt paint has a smooth top layer (some paints are matt because of the scattering particles inside the layer, and are smooth outside, some are just matt because of being rough. That other kind wont do)

Edited February 25 by Casey

[Andrés S.]

A matte surface is matte because it does not reflect light rays in the same direction. Thus, by definition, a matte surface has valleys and ridges. The difference between one and the other can be very big or it can be very small, but it is there. And that difference in height is what means that air can be introduced or that the decal does not adapt well, producing the silver. No, I don't think it's a myth that decals with a shiny surface don't produce silver. The silvering depends on many aspects among which are the quality of the decals themselves. In my opinion, applying decals on a matte surface is not recommended and the chances of the decals producing silvering are much higher than on a glossy surface. In fact, when I did not varnish in gloss, silvering was produced and since I varnished in gloss, I have never had silver.

 

Andrés.

[Chuck1945]

Just an anecdotal story here but back when putting a gloss coat on before decals were applied was a new idea (shows my age) I got bottles of Micro Gloss and Micro Flat. Hoping to save time I brush painted gloss in the general areas where decals were to be applied rather than spraying overall. After decals were done, I sprayed the flat overall and noticed that even after everything had dried, you could see where gloss had been applied. Fast forward to modern times and I have found as @Casey has said, some modern paints, MRP for example, don’t generally need a gloss coat but whenever I want to be sure, I spray a clear gloss such as Tamiya X-22 in the general area of decals and then a clear flat, usually XF-86 overall

[Mike]

It depends on the decal scheme. A tank with a couple of crosses, I’d probably just gloss that panel if I wasn’t applying any weathering potions, but with an airbrush it’s pretty easy to apply a thin coat all over a model, and then you have a common surface texture to apply your next steps onto. with an airbrush it would also be relatively easy to fade out the gloss too, in an effort to reduce and difference in texture etc. 
 

I imagine it would be annoying to forget a decal and have to go back and gloss that, but it’s your model, you take as much or as little of our advice as you like.  

[Lysander]

Thanks for all the advice.

 

So I think I'll do the whole model as it's my first time and I'd rather be safe than sorry. I've got the W&N Galeria Gloss which I'll think a bit. I take it that one coat should suffice?

[Mike]

33 minutes ago, Lysander said:

I take it that one coat should suffice?

It depends on how microscopically rough your surface is.  It's best to play it by ear and ensure you get at least a decent high-satin finish, preferably glossy, but without going too thick with multiple coats.  I usually use Alclad Aqua Gloss, and keep it in the airbrush until I'm happy with the shine, remembering that it's the microscopic depressions that trap tiny air bubbles and result in silvering. 

 

No-one's mentioned sealing your decals with another coat of gloss, so I'll do that now.  It prevents the air getting at them, and also stops any weathering fluids or touch-ups from sneaking under your decals and making a mess.  I usually put extra coats over the decals, and sand them back, repeating the process as required to hide away the carrier film, but I'm a bit weird like that Might be an idea to just enjoy your modelling for now BTW, many Eastern European producers are creating decals that you can peel off the carrier film later, which I think is a great idea, as it saves me a lot of faff.  Some folks don't like 'em, but it's different strokes

[flyboy2610]

My personal opinion is to gloss the entire model.

[dnl42]

Glossing under the decal reduces the chance of silvering and protects the paint from decal setting solutions.

 

Glossing the entire model makes the sheen more uniform.

 

 

Clear-coat the model after application protects the decals, even if you don't do any weathering at all.

[Troy Smith]

11 hours ago, Lysander said:

So I think I'll do the whole model as it's my first time and I'd rather be safe than sorry. I've got the W&N Galeria Gloss which I'll think a bit. I take it that one coat should suffice?

 

Use something as a test mule,  old kit, cheap toy, (look in charity or pound shops)  even rigid packaging, old CD case,   basically  anything you can use to replicate what you intend to do on your model,  and test it on there first.

 

Most kits have spare decals, so try out a spare on something finished in the way your model is.

 

the only 'wrong' way is to get a result you are unhappy with, and the 'right' way is a result you like,  how you achieve that is your choice, it very easy to get dazzled by youtubers and snazzy builds online.

 

Well worth doing a work in progress, or join one of the group builds,  great way to get feedback, hints and tips and overall encouragement, and it's interesting seeing your work at one step removed and in a common format.

Beginners are very welcome too.  

 

Also, depending on where you are in Sussex,  there are 3 model clubs, IPMS Mid Sussex (see link below for details, next meeting is this Thursday BTW, contact details in link) Southdowns Model Group, both  meet at Southwick between Brighton and Worthing, and IPMS East Sussex/Hailsham Modellers,  meets in Hailsham. 

Well worth going along as then you can ask questions and see how things are done, or how other modellers approach them.

 

HTH