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Chuck1945

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Everything posted by Chuck1945

  1. It’s only in the last 3-4 years that I have bought two sets of metric drill bits ranging 0.01-2.0mm. Before that for 40+ years it was a loose assortment of various AWG sized bits kept in an old 35mm film container. Just sort through them to find the size needed
  2. I’m 99.99% a 1/72 aircraft modeler, but I do have the Vespid Comet I and just completed the IBG Pz.Kpfw III Ausf. A This could well tempt me into the larger scale.
  3. I really do like the models with a story behind them. I didn’t get the Arma FM-1 & FM-2 double kit but when I saw your picture with the scribing template to do the ammo box doors… Anyway, all I wanted to do is point out that except perhaps for some British specific details, the FM-1 and Wildcat V are the same airframe. The conversion you had accomplish was due to Arma putting the F4F-4 kit in a different box with new decals and calling it an FM-1
  4. Very nice Ed. Always nice to have a story along with the model. The FM-1/Wildcat V was only equipped with 2x.50 guns per wing, if Arma did 3/wing, the kit had F4F-4 wings rather than FM-1 wings. The USN aviators bitterly objected to the -4s switch to 6 guns since it reduced the actual engagement time because of less ammo/gun. When production switched to General Motors, the reduction in armament (along with an increase in ammo per gun) was part of the changeover to FM-1.
  5. on Fantasy Printshop. Various colors and sizes
  6. The IX/XVI sprue shots look to have normal and bulged bomb bays. Now if Airfix had done that properly in 1/72…
  7. Their B/C kit has the option for the fin filet, no reason to think their D wouldn’t include the filet present or absent option as well.
  8. Thanks for the link. I obviously did not dig deep enough on the Arma site.
  9. Again, from the pictures posted by Cookenbacker, the CMR kit may have the parts, but is noticeably short. Kinda up to you, get a purpose molded XII kit and accept the length issue or start to develop your kit bashing abilities to obtain a probably more accurate overall XII, at least with regard to overall length
  10. I’m doing a batch build of four Arma P-51B/Mustang III kits, one of which will represent KH516 flown by Kpt Jerry Mencel DFC, 309 (Polish) Sqd, RAF when claiming a Me 262 9 April 1945. The kit markings show red on the area immediately around the gun ports but the symbol used for that particular red is not listed in the paint list, only US Insignia Red as used for cockpit details. My question is whether this red gun port area really indicate the red patches commonly used by the RAF to cover gun ports or is it actually a red painted area? I suspect patches but am hoping for clarification
  11. I don’t have a current hosting service so no picture of my Xtrakit XII. I did mine pretty much OOB 10-15 years ago, only using a jig to get the individual prop blades properly aligned. It wasn’t a Tamiya-like fit but I don’t recall major issues (of course I’m getting on in years so my memory probably isn’t completely reliable ) You can get a more accurate XII hacking and splicing other kits, just depends what you are willing to accept. Perhaps worth mentioning I also did a XII using an Aeroclub vac fuselage and the old Airfix Spitfire Vb kit back in the mid 80s.
  12. Can you find the Xtrakit XII? Not perfect, but no chopping or splicing required.
  13. I’m curious too, haven’t ever used Printscale but have a sheet inbound that includes Don Gentile’s Buckeye Don Spitfire markings.
  14. B&W photos of B-17Gs during assembly in 1943-44 do not show any noticeable tonal differences between the skinning, ribs, formers, etc indicating the aft fuselage is essentially all unpainted aluminum. Source: Building the B-17 Flying Fortress, a detailed look at manufacturing Boeing’s legendary WWII bomber in original photos; Bill Yenne; 2020.
  15. I’m not sure I have the Academy kit in the stash, but I’m still good for one. PM sent as well
  16. Haven't built a biplane for 3-4 years, but like the others I would assemble the kit as normal including drilling out holes for rigging as appropriate and leaving the top wing off. Paint and apply all decals, any weathering, flat coats, cabane strut rigging, etc, and attaching the upper wing last.
  17. I bought it more for the coverage of GPW and upon the reputation of the authors. I vaguely recall the publicity claiming great authenticity and accurate color examples and in this I was sorely disappointed. The examples are printed and quite small, at least in my opinion. Worse, colors are printed immediately next to each other and combinations like Luftwaffe 70/71 become very hard to distinguish - granted those two are hard to distinguish on some photos, but book examples, again in my opinion, should allow easier examination of individual colors. I much prefer the RAFM samples and the Luftwaffe chips in the Merrick-Kiroff and Ullmann books for that reason. I don’t have expertise to comment upon the accuracy of the color presentations, but overall it is a book I regret purchasing.
  18. Yup, the seldom seen 14 cylinder Packard-Merlin (V-1760)
  19. If it like the original IVf box, the belly gun packs are a separate sprue added to a IV kit so a bomber version is there too
  20. @Giorgio N, I vaguely recall reading in Geoff Thomas’ book about RAF Thunderbolts that they were repainted upon arrival in India with locally produced paints supporting your comment about finding sources without needing to rely upon a supply chain stretching back to the UK.
  21. I remember that one. If you didn’t smear the glue too badly you could open the access covers for the nose cannon
  22. Probably coincidence. The beam approach fitting can also seen on many IX photos though it wouldn’t be a complete surprise for it to also have been censor removed.
  23. Yes, the hardcover is the complete set. It followed the individual booklets. For me, having all the subjects in one book is preferred to keeping track of all the individual ones.
  24. Depending what the problem is, light sanding if there are rough areas and then repainting might be an option. I don’t know anything about the Revell product you mention but Gunze’s Mr Color Thinner (the levelling thinner isn’t needed here) will remove the paint with rubbing and not harm the plastic.
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