Help Required with glue information

[hertsmil]

Hello, having been away from modelling for some 30 years and now starting to get back into the hobby i have noticed that there are many changes in the types of glues that are available on the market today 30 odd  years ago there was not such a choice i have looked at some of the posts on this forum regarding glue ups and see that most people have there own choice but i was now i was hoping that someone might advise on what are the best glues for some of the following items

for glueing up the main components on the model are procision plastic glues like Tamiya extra thin better or is the brush type glues also i see the many members use different forms of super glue but as i understand only for certain applications so when might you use super glue, also with so many new materials being used now to make components for models what is the best glue to used when fitting photo etched parts to the normal plastic used to make models and would you use the same glue if fitting a photo etched part to a resin part and also what glue to attach resin parts to the normal plastic.

i have never used photo etched items before so a very sharp learning curve for me also never used resin parts, but as they say every day is a school day so hoping that i learn some new details which will only help in making my models and the hobby better, as a child i just use to glue them up any old way and then very badly paint now very much older i have become a bit of perfectionist i like things to look correct and try to my best ability and try and do as much research about the subject before starting and get as much reference material in front of me before starting and try to have some sort of plan not that it always goes to plan.  

i know about using PVA glue for clear parts and that i can understand as it dries clear, but i know from past efforts that some paints use to react with some of the glues.

it seems such a minefield out there regarding the amount of different glues that hopefully with some help from other members i might find a happy solution and find just the right glues for each job.

i hope that this request is not a daft question and i don't want to clog the forum up with a large debat about this topic but any help would be grateful

regards

Andy     

[Kingsman]

For most plastic construction I have for years used Tamiya Extra Thin.  Ocasionally for stronger joins I use standard Tamiya liquid cement (white cap).  Sometimes the Quick Setting Extra Thin.  Very rarely do I use anything that comes in a tube or with a nozzle.  I keep a bottle of Plastic Weld handy as it is useful for the odd bit of non-styrene plastic you might come across.  Plastic Magic does things like ABS too.

 

For transparencies you can get clear PVA in most hobby shops like Hobbycraft.  Does all the same things as white PVA but is clear from the bottle.  Microscale's Kristal Klear is the old standard.  Any PVA should be fine with acrylic paints as most are today.  Thin liquid poly can be used, carefully, with a fine brush by capillary action.

 

For resin and metal parts etc then cyanoacrylate remains the preferred adhesive.  I tend just to use stuff from DIY and hobby shops.  None of it sets very quickly these days so an accelerator is useful or you'll be sat holding parts in place for ages.  Brush-on type probably more useful than spray, especialy for small bonds.  Ammo MiG Ultra Glue is supposed to be for dissimilar materials, but to me it just seems like PVA, is quite thick and doesn't seem to bond very strongly.

[Longbow]

Tamiya Extra Thin, but don’t buy that…

The Tamiya airbrush cleaner is the exact same chemical, but a lot less in cost for the amount you get 👍

[dogsbody]

My cement collection:

 

 

The Testors and Tenax haven't been used in years. Occasionally, I use a little tube glue, but not too often. I also have a small tube of Krazy Glue laying about the work table, just in case.

 

 

 

 

Chris

[Graham Boak]

I use Revell Contacta with the thin metal tube. but keep a piece of thin wire handy to poke it clear.  Otherwise the brush-on ones are pretty good.  In truth pretty well any of them will do.

 

Similarly any of the PVA ones will do,  I tend to use Kristal Clear because I have it.

 

Really, ditto the superglues.  Wilko did a lovely little bottle with a brush, but other brands are available.  You can buy accelerator if you find the one you try too slow, you can put the glue on one of the parts you want to join and the accelerator on the other - but you'd better get it right first time.

 

Don't attempt to overthink it.  This is supposed to be fun, and it almost always doesn't matter which one you use.

[dogsbody]

I forgot to mention that I use an old fine point paint brush to apply my Tamiya Extra Thin cement. The brush in the bottle is too big for some ( most ) jobs.

 

 

 

 

Chris

[hertsmil]

Many thanks with all the replies i will now start looking for products to help

Andy

[Gondor44]

It's all personal choice as you said. I would add to what dogsbody said by adding an old sewing needle in the front end of an old or cheap paint brush instead of the bristles, then cut the eye of the needle in half so you end up with two small prongs. Very useful when wanting to apply a small amount of superglue in a specific spot.

 

Gondor

[Mike]

I've moved this to Tools & Tips, as it's related to that, not the original location in one of the WIP areas.

[dogsbody]

2 hours ago, Gondor44 said:

I would add to what dogsbody said by adding an old sewing needle in the front end of an old or cheap paint brush instead of the bristles, then cut the eye of the needle in half so you end up with two small prongs. Very useful when wanting to apply a small amount of superglue in a specific spot.

 

Gondor

 

 

This:

 

 

 

 

Not my original idea. I read it in an old modeling Magazine, in the late 80's.

 

 

 

 

Chris

[Gondor44]

Yes, although I use an old paintbrush handle. Same result.

 

Gondor

[dogsbody]

6 hours ago, Gondor44 said:

Yes, although I use an old paintbrush handle. Same result.

 

Gondor

 

I just happened to have a couple of those handles as spare. I don't remember how or why.

 

 

Chris

[NoSG0]

A video about the airbrush cleaner for glue. But it would still be good to keep the smaller green bottle and refill it?

 

[spfparker]

Seen this on Ebay - can this be used for assmbly or is it too nasty....!   PURE MEK Methyl Ethyl Ketone

[Tarby]

1 hour ago, spfparker said:

Seen this on Ebay - can this be used for assmbly or is it too nasty....!   PURE MEK Methyl Ethyl Ketone

You should be able to find EMA Plastic Weld in any UK model shop. It'll fuse styrene, acrylic, ABS and butyrate. The US version is called MEK Plastic Weld. Make sure you use it in a well ventilated area as MEK is nasty stuff in the long term if not treated with respect.

[Pete in Lincs]

3 hours ago, Tarby said:

you use it in a well ventilated area as MEK is nasty stuff in the long term if not treated with respect.

And the short term. get that window open. Nasty stuff that we used to use for cleaning Aircraft parts. 

Oh, and don't get it on your skin either.