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Kingsman

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Everything posted by Kingsman

  1. Looks pretty damn good to me. Notably you've shown the bright wear on the roadwheel rims and outer edges of the guide horns which many people miss on M3/M4 vehicles (but you missed the idler rims!)
  2. The brackets across the bustle top were for spare antenna elements, which came in a canvas bag. There are "footman loops" at mid length for the securing strap. Spare M2 MG barrels are occasionally seen stowed there but most often they are empty.
  3. All please note the date of the linked article: 2013 - almost a decade ago. Yes, this was tried. I was working in MOD at the time, in the Protected Mobility team that introduced Foxhound and other platforms to service. It was tried. It did not work. It was insufficiently durable in use, It was not adopted. It is not in use. It was never in use. Vehicles are now gradually being repainted, and new vehicles have for some years procured, in a green colour which has been the subject of much debate itself. The colour used on vehicles in Iraq and Afghanistan and still running around today is without question Light Stone BS361. I see them every day still. And that was the colour we specified when I worked in that area and the desired colour when we were looking at changing other equipment colours to blend more with the then-new MTP uniforms. Weapon furniture, holsters etc etc. Although a colour called Coyote Tan from some suppliers was a close match. Do not start painting your British Army vehicles in the Iraq and Afghanistan era any kind of "army brown". Light Stone has a brownish tint and in the right - or wrong - light it can appear to be a darker brown. But it is not. Let's not degenerate into arguments about one model being seen in bright sunlight and another on a gloomy day so their colours look different. And what we all see on our own multiple brands and technologies of monitors with our own preferred settings connected to different graphics cards by different interface standards with our own individual eyesight colour perception and perhaps corrective lenses will be different. And that's before you factor in imagery differences.
  4. Because that is what was photographed and therefore definitive and not speculative. The M41 story is that the initial shipment only got as far as depots in Japan before the cease-fire. I'm sure they made it to S Korea thereafter, and M47s too, when the US began stationing garrison forces in S Korea. And perhaps this is the source of confusion. Just about every type of US service equipment will have been in S Korea at some point after the cease-fire. There may well be pictures of them in Korea, but when? We see pictures of Tortoises and A41 Centurions in Germany shortly after the end of the war but we do not claim that makes them present during the war. Did everything in Vietnam carry the white star? The M41 was certainly deployed to Vietnam with US and ARVN forces. There are many photos: white stars notably absent. The M114 was there for a short time with US forces, but was withdrawn by the end of 1964 in favour of the M113. So it was only there for a few months, and that would have been the original M114 and not the M114A1 with the commander's cupola. The M114 proved to be mechanically unreliable and underpowered with poor cross country performance and very poor survivability - especially against mine strikes. However, ARVN did continue to operate the M114 after the US withdrew it. I think they had about 80 of them. I think you're on a hiding to nothing with the M59 in Vietnam. The M113 was in service almost 4 years before US combat forces were deployed to Vietnam and only about a year after the US sent its first "advisers". It wasn't even worthy of giving to ARVN! By the time that US forces were sent the diesel M113A1 had supplanted the petrol M113 in front-line units.
  5. Coincidentally this just came up over on Missing Lynx........ https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/missinglynx/some-interesting-tyre-photos-via-the-nz-national-a-t332544.html#p1681338
  6. That colour is officially Light Stone BS361. It is best described as a brownish sand. And it is hardly new: it's been in use since the 1st Gulf War in 1990, over 30 years ago. Vallejo and Xtracrylix both offer alleged matches, XA1313 and 71.143 respectively. Online colour swatches are subject to many variables and are only ever indicative.
  7. Yes it certainly did. And road-pattern tyres were often used on UK home service vehicles where off-road use was not required: ambulances, for example, or garrison trucks. This came up in the context of Leyland Retrievers a while back and in a quick surf I found 7 different styles of tyre in use, often with different types on the same vehicle and different types on the same twin rear wheels. Perhaps your biggest issue in 1/35 is finding those different patterns in kits or after-market parts. After-market suppliers often choose different patterns from each other or within their own ranges.
  8. Possible useful contacts here. http://www.crossley-motors.org.uk/contacts/contacts.html
  9. As ever, your workmanship and attention to detail leaves me amazed and trailing in your dust. Some things to think about on the turret, although I imagine you're ahead of that curve already. Dragon didn't make a stellar job of it, as you've seen with the bustle. It's also supposed to be an M4A4 turret (it isn't.....). The 105mm turret had a 2nd top ventilator at the rear just where the bustle weld join is. So there must be a small sub-semi-circular piece welded-in to cover the front portion of the vent opening which would be forward of the bustle weld. Of course this could be a replacement 75mm "high bustle" turret. Large-hatch M4s were all built as 105s. Tiger Model Designs offer a set of M4 ventilators. But they're closing down at Christmas for good unless someone buys the business, so get anything you want from TMD quickly or potentially miss it for ever. No-one took over Tank Workshop when they closed. Photos suggest that 105's had the thickened front right turret cheek, which would be normal for the D78461 turret shell on which the 105 variant was based. A 75mm version of this turret would certainly have had the thickened cheek too. More card, Milliput and sanding...... Later M4(105)s gained the all-round vision cupola, although IDF nicked many of these from M4s to fit to M48s and put the split hatch back. The step around the base of the turret is seen but is less than usual. Turrets cast with the base rim out of tolerance were machined to tolerance, often leaving a step. This could be yet more plastic card, filler and sanding...... I like your side grab handles. Making me think I might have to replace/improve mine on my M4A4T version which is lurking in the shadows of the Shelf of Stasis. I should have done more work on my M50 bustles too......... Fortunately I hung stowage on the rails - hides multiple sins! For the little tie-downs for tools etc I happened across a pack of brass ones from Voyager a while back. Make a simple bending jig from 2 pieces of plastic strip and they are dead easy. Press them down over the jig with tweezers, pick them up, dab of glue on each end and place. But more recently I've happened across the 3D printed tool straps from MJ Productions. These have the tie-down loops, straps and buckles printed in one piece. They can be slipped over the end of e.g. pick helves or crowbars but for things like spade or axe handles you can just snip the bottom and spring them over. MJ also do a full 3D Sherman detail set with all tool fittings, light guards, cable clamps etc. But it's about £20. That being said, some etched sets will run you £15+ and tax your sanity somewhat more. There is also a light guard set which works out at about £4 per vehicle. FC Modeltrend also a similar Sherman detail set and light guards. I haven't seen these and their reputation is mixed but getting better: MiG Ammo is re-packaging some of their products.
  10. You said "offered". Do I presume the Chinese did not buy? I know they did purchase some CV33/35 from Italy.
  11. I've just had a look at a China Clipper in my LHS. The edition they have comes with a Value Gear stowage set. I thought £62 to be expensive, but when you pay £14-18 for VG stowage sets separately it isn't actually so bad.
  12. It's a bit late to say this now, but Otters were never finished in OD. With the possible exception of very late production in 1944-45 when it is claimed in some sources that Canada adopted US OD No9 instead of UK SCC15. But whether any finished thus made it across the Atlantic is open to debate. Only about 60% of Otter production left Canada, the remainder being retained for training or manufactured too late to be shipped. The factory to front line pipeline time was at least 3 months, sometimes 5 or 6 depending on convoy timings. Initial production was finished in Khaki Green 3 but very quickly switched to SCC2 in mid-1942 and then officially (but see above) SCC15 in early 1944. In-theatre repaints in NWE of SCC2 vehicles would almost certainly have been SCC15 as that was the paint available through the supply system. US OD was not stocked.
  13. I think the T41 was too early for Korea, being developed in 1949 and committed to production in August 1950 because of Korea, yet the M41 was too late to see service in Korea because it was rushed and flawed and most of those built were embargoed in Tank Depots pending rectifications. It seems that some M59s were initially deployed to Vietnam but didn't last long as it was a cheap, poor, underpowered and unreliable design and the superior M113 was available from 1960. M114s were in Vietnam in small numbers but identifiably Vietnam images are rare. Here are a couple. These might both be ARVN.
  14. I'm going to take a different tack here too. But first I will point out that some old-established manufacturers like Tamiya and Italeri are still selling kits from 40+ years ago. And this presents its own problems as it can be hard to work out what is old and what is not, and what is apparently new but just based on old with some new parts. Here a site called Scalemates is your friend as they show the history of a product, provide links to reviews, suggestions for related associated items such as decals and detail sets, and often have links to instruction sheet downloads. No manufacturer is universally good or universally bad, especially those with a large back catalogue. Although smaller and newer ones can very quickly gain a good or bad rep based on a small number of products. A reputation that can develop and mature with time and more product. I would say that you should look at the subject matter rather than the brand, and here again Scalemates can help. Other review sites such as the well-regarded Perth Military Modelling Site are out there. I find it useful just to Google "[brand] [kit name] [scale] review" and see what comes up. You can find a lot out that way. Let me give you 2 examples. Let's say you want a T-55. You can have the old Tamiya kit which will be a simple build with vinyl tracks and poor and inaccurate detail. It's a bit of a dog IMO. But for about the same money you could have the Takom or Miniart offerings, the latter with full interiors if you want that. Miniart is superbly detailed, much more accurate and comes in multiple versions but has the afore-mentioned zillion pieces. Takom sits somewhere in the middle and would probably be the right choice for a first venture. Now let's say you want a Valentine. Again there is a Tamiya offering and again this is the simple build option but is again somewhat simplified. Miniart offer Valentines too but theirs have accuracy issues as well as being complex. AFV Club Valentines sit in the middle being more accurate and simpler than Miniart while more detailed but more complex than Tamiya. Something you will find very different from times past is track types. Decades ago they were vinyl or even still rubber. Many still are vinyl. But now some kits have individual links, often made from multiple parts. There are also now "link and length" types made of both individual links and pre-moulded sections. And after-market species in plastic, white metal, resin and 3D printed. A set of metal or 3D links will set you back £30+ or even £40+. So if like me you don't like vinyl tracks, finding kits that don't need a second mortgage for a set of tracks can be an important factor. Metal replacement gun barrels are another innovation, but are not available for everything. Eliminating joins and mould seams on plastic barrels without making them oval or giving them flat strips can be problematic.
  15. T48 rubber chevron tracks were the common factory fit on M4 Composites. But they wore down more quickly than the steel types, which is why the UK preferred the steel types - but we got what we were given. So you might find replacement T54s or T49s in use. A quick search found T54E1 and T45E2 tracks on British composites and T51 plain rubber blocks on US composites in the Pacific, so the T48 was not universal. If you shave the 3 rivet heads off the T62 spare links they will pass for T54E2s: the chevron shape is almost identical. Rubber tracks were back on the menu from late 1943 once the US had built up synthetic rubber production to compensate for the complete loss of natural rubber from the Far East early in 1942, only a few months into Sherman production. T62s were only factory fit on M4A4s: it seems that Chrysler did not use them on the M4 Composites which followed the M4A4 in production there. As @Bullbasket says, once you've built a few Shermans - especially Dragon ones - you will end up with a substantial spares box. There must be some fellow modellers at your end of the Pacific with some spare bits they might part with. BNA have an eye-watering and wallet-weakening selection of M4 after market parts if you just search "Sherman" and filter to 1/35 and in stock. Your Asuka kit doesn't need most of these however, especially as you're building OOB. You probably get enough etch in the kit to be going on with, without splashing out on more. I would suggest that you might look at these (in price order). The 2 I've underlined are the only ones I consider essential. The others are more for ideas about how you might pimp your ride. Commonwealth Shermans are rarely seen without various stowages, and most of what is in either of the 2 Firefly stowage sets will work. Eureka XXL tow cable #3503, which also has some nice resin MG barrels (the 0.50 is the wrong type, though) Panzer Art UK Cullin prong #35-060 Value Gear M4A1(76) sandbag armour #VG-SB008 (Composite glacis has same profile where this fits) Aber 75mm barrel #35L-135, which is designed for the Tasca/Asuka kits Resicast cupola #352279 if you want the hatch open MJ Miniatures light guard set #EZ35004 (easier than bending etch!) or their Detail Up Set #EZ35017 Black Dog Firefly accessories and stowage #T35029 Legend Firefly stowage set #LF1144 The one thing I didn't see were appropriate replacement tracks. Asuka kits come with vinyl tracks, which I don't like - but you may be happy with. Bronco, Masterclub and Friul all do suitable replacement tracks - Bronco being cheapest but fiddliest in a lose-your-sanity way. IMO Masterclubs are better than Friuls if only because the pins are longer and you get a jig - but either will cost you nearly as much as the kit itself. I have all of those brands in my spare stash pile right now but I suspect that shipping from the UK will be prohibitive: you're probably looking at about AUD 75-80 inc postage. It cost AUD 22 to send a set of metal tracks just to Italy!! Probably better to wait for BNA to have stock or look elsewhere in Oz. At a pinch you might get away with the AFV Club T51 plain rubber block type, which they do have: you could even scuff them up as worn-down T48s. But the pins on these are fragile and once twisted off by a stiff end connector are very hard to repair and impossible to repair workably.
  16. There are brass and resin options for the stowage box - or at least there have been. Another British mod you would expect to see would be the triple racks for spare links on the glacis, usually 2 racks but the positions varied. Also 2 UK-pattern fire extinguishers, one each side of the rear hull in front of the rear lights and outboard of the lifting rings. These might be on the same sprue as the box. Some etched brass detail sets for M4s give you the track racks and IIRC some also include the box. Fire extinguishers are available from Panzer Art and Resicast, in both cases without annoying mould seams. BNA Modelworld are worth a look for after-market stuff. I've even used them from here in the UK!
  17. You can make satisfactory width indicators with round-headed sewing pins and a piece of plastic tube or insulation sleeve from this wire for the base section. This is what we used to do back in the day before there were after-market products........ RB Model certainly do them in turned brass and I think other brands do too. The grenade covers are more difficult. You could make the framework from plastic strip and add your own mesh. But as suggested above there are after-market detail sets for that kit. As well as Aber you might look for Eduard, ET Model, Voyager or Lion Roar. Don't forget that kit it is an Italeri re-box, not an original Tamiya kit, so you might try Italeri too for the original kit parts.
  18. Nicely scruffy. But that's a Lee, BTW - not a Grant (although the US didn't use that name).
  19. Molotov pens are really paint pens. Their 'ink' is very thin as it must flow through the fibre tip. They are also designed for use on porous surfaces. So it will spread out on non-porous surfaces. It might spread less on a gloss surface but the key point is that too much ink is being applied. Artists permanent ink pens are better, but usually only come in dark colours like black and brown. I would recommend bottled artists ink and an old fashioned mapping or calligraphy pen.
  20. There have been a couple of limited edition decal sets for Lebanese Fireflies, published by Military Modelcraft International. I have both. But I was concerned about the carrier film showing or silvering. And it seemed a shame to butcher a rare multi-tank set for 1 model. So the graffiti is copied from the top decal set freehand using green artist's acrylic ink and an old-style dipping pen. The Palestine outlines are black ink. If anyone is interested in buying either of these decal sets, PM me. I don't need them any more as I won't be doing any more Lebanese Fireflies.
  21. Some paint on the Repotenciado. Some were plain dark green, but that's just boring. The colour was difficult. Colour images vary a lot and many are of preserved vehicles in poor repair. The Argentine Army maintains a few in running order so I've gone with that as a reliable colour. The "brown" has a distinct pinkish tinge to it. Mig Ammo provide German WW2 Sandbraun RAL8031 in their Argentine set, which isn't bad but I felt wasn't pink enough. Eventually I settled on a Warhammer colour called Tallarn Flesh. Markings are basic: just a black serial each side and a white 2-digit number front and back.
  22. The original wisdom was that the Thunder version was "better" but it has become very hard to find and most people seem happy with the IBG offering. Because of the limitations of the way the wheels are moulded both kits need after-market resin wheels to get the correct tread patterns. Wildcats Models have several after-market parts for the Scammell including 2 types of wheel. Other vendors are available, but I've used this guy many times and found him to be completely reliable. https://wildcatsmodels.com/search?controller=search&orderby=position&orderway=desc&poscats=&search_query=scammel&submit_search=Search The Thunder kit is hard to find in the UK but I believe you can get it direct from LZ Models in Eire. They do their own replacement wheels and basket too. But you may get stung for 20% import VAT and a £9 Royal Mail fee. https://www.lzmodels.com/Thunder-Model-kits.html
  23. They were not designed as APCs, although Ukraine appears to be using them as such. It was basically a truck version of Mastiff: the Tactical Support Vehicle (Heavy). Designed to carry supplies in Mastiff-equipped units, but was later used as an artillery tractor.
  24. No. I just came across the rusty dump photo online while researching. There's a UN soldier posing in the turret hatch. I presume Swedish as it was originally posted on a Swedish site.
  25. Managed to snap the right side - in focus this time.
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