MFH 1/12 Ferrari D50 (full detail)

[Peter Milgate]

Hello Folks, 

Back again for a delicious Model factory Hiro model. I elected to buy this to cut my teeth on the wire wheels and because I thought it to be a different version of a beautifuil car. 

So I present the build log of the Ferrari (Lancia) D50 in my preferred 1/12 scale. I was drawn to this by it's peculiar off set engine layout and obviously, its a red Ferrari....

 

      

 

 

 

 

So, first step with any MFH build is to check the parts are all there. I had layout shots of this parts count available on the MFH website so used these to compare against. Large resin parts and turned wheel rims etc are easily checked but the white metal can contain many small parts to consider and account for. I laid them out and compared the pictiures of parts on the website. 

       

 

So, with all parts present and accounted for, its time to sort them into build stages and I do this by seperating the parts for each section and placing them into a compartments box. They will then be clean in the magnetic tumbler before assembly can start. 

I have ordered some relevant paint from Proscale Paints so the fun will soon begin. There will be a slight delay while I complete a resin Ariel Atom but that should be a quick build, so I expect to return to this build within two weeks....Thanks for looking. 

 

Edited August 26, 2023 by Peter Milgate
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[Vesa Jussila]

One more master piece in making.

[ceeb555]

Mmmmmm a taster for what is to come. Looking forward to you returning to this soon

Chris

[Tomasz Zamiara]

Beloved set. I chose it as one of the first on my way with MFH. Good luck !

 

IMAG4165 by Tomasz, on Flickr

[Sabrejet]

For me it will always be a Lancia D.50! But either way I am looking forward to seeing it progress.

[Peter Milgate]

Quick update: So. it seems two weeks was a bit optimistic....🤨

 

And off we go again, First few stages of parts have been cleaned and polished in the tumbler. Parts sorted and dryed. 

Stage One commences with the chassis and gearbox with mount. This meant lots of holes to be drilled and much test fitting whilst trying to hold parts together. In reality an extra three hands would have come in useful. But I got there eventually. All holes drilled and parts straightened where they needed to be straight and bent where they needed to be bent....

Plan is to solder the chassis together but test fit is first step. It appears it may be prudent to do chassis for Stage One, Two, Three, Four and Five as they share paint and it may be easier to get a better finish on the tubework. I will fit the rear axle as well. 

Anyway, I need to snad and file now to finalise shapes before reaching for the flux and solder. 

I have drilled the footpedals and all parts for Stage One, Two and Three. If it is chassis colour (Light Grey) then it will be attached provided its placement won't get in the way of fitting something later down the build. 

 

 

This is the parts layout for Stage One and Two. 

 

And a dry fit of the chassis parts (Stage One)

  

 

That's it for now, but it is finally underway...looking forward to this build, but then I do like a red car...😃

 

 

[Peter Milgate]

Stage One continues...

More fettling of parts to ensure fitment. Lots of holes drilled and parts slotted together.

Chassis parts soldered together slowly and carefully. Felt like I needed eight hands to hold this together initially, on the first day I could easily have thrown this out the window out of frustration. I stopped, stepped away and returned the follwing night, which went much better. I was more relaxed and it went much better. 

 

This is the rear part of the chassis, from rear axle up to front bulkhead/firewall. The rear axle is held on by two screws which recieve covering caps, which once slodered in place completely hide the screw heads.

        

 

  

 

 

The front section of the chassis was next up, with the wheel hubs consisting of four seperate parts, soldered together. Once these were solid, I went on to drill some more holes...

      

 

  

 

And this is progress so far. All parts which should be in grey are cleaned and ready for first step of etch primer prior to paint. Those odd parts include top stretchers for the engine bay, front suspension and brackets for the front leaf springs. The chassis is in two larger sub assemblies and I am reluctant to join them at this time as I would need to add the Foot pedals/floor and engine bulkhead. To avoid having to do lots of subsequent masking, I think it might be easier to join them after paint and touch up afterwards. So, off to the paint boothe....

Etch primer will be Proscale Etch Metal Primer PS-1006. Grey will be Mr Color 35 (which equates to IJN Grey)

 

 

Thanks for looking, catch you later. 

[Peter Milgate]

Work is progrssing on the chassis, next step is to get some Proscale Etch metal primer down and then some Mr Color Grey (35) Side panels were painted in Proscale Bright Aluminum prior to being masked off and the Grey top coat gunned on. 

  

 

 

The gearbox was next on the list, which is resin with white metal detail parts. this was etch primered and sprayed in Proscale Steel PS-2205 as a base colour. Ancillaries were given different shades of silvers and grey mettallics to add some tonal variation. 

The provided clutch? spring was too long, I had some spare short exhaust springs but these were 2mm too short so I made a replacement out of thin wire wrappred arround a 0.5mm bar. This was adjusted to the required length and CA'd into place. 

  

 

 

The gearbox was installed into the chassis and the front bulk head was attached using long cramps to ensure it was snuggly set in position. Once set, I added some of the small parts (fuel stopcocks and valves including some initial fuel tubing. I used my favored clear fuel tubing but may change this at a later date. Not sure if I prefer the clear or the kit supplied biege colured tubing....

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Some extra gearbox linkages fitted into place....

    

 

 

Next work is to assemble the front leaf spring and fittings...made from individual leaves...

    

 

The same was completed for the rear leaf spring assembly...

    

 

 

The pedal box was built and put into position...and that completed Stages One, Two and Three...various parts of Stages Four, Five and Six have been completed in oreder to get the whole chassis prepped. 

 

 

Next item on the agenda was the rear wheel hubs, which had several (hundreds) of air vent/cooling holes in them. I elected to drill these out as I have figured previously these kits deserve that extra attention and you are rewarded with a better finished model, so I drilled out the vents...no one will ever notice, but they are now real holes not dimples in metal...

    

 

 

The rear axle has small stub axles which are screwed onto the main axle. These were cleaned for soldering, screwed in and then soldered in place. This has worked incredibly well, creating a lovely stron joint. Once cleaned and touched up with the base Mr Color 35 chassis paint ti has resulted in a nice joint. 

    

 

 

Rear wheel is simply dry fitted at present to check fit and look. 

 

Front anti-roll bar was fitted to front sub frame and that is nearly the chassis completed...

  

 

  

 

  

 

 

Chassis (es?) complete. Time for Stage Seven which is the engine block...basic block is resin with typical metal additions. 

  

 

And that is up to date on the build so far...all metal parts have been through the tumbler and cleaned. I will work through the engine which seems a more simpler build than my previous MFH Ferrari F1-67 V12 engine. 

 

Thanks for looking. 

Edited September 12, 2023 by Peter Milgate
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[Sabrejet]

Lovely job. But it always be "Lancia", not "Ferrari" in my mind.

[Peter Milgate]

Further progress update on the Ferrari D50.

 

Focused on the engine, built up the main body and got some etch primer onto it. Obviously had to do some fake, in chassis pics because the odd offset is what attracted me to this model...

   

 

With the cam covers? on, I was left with a nasty step so I built this up with some rough plastic card to bring up the levels. The HT leads/distributor? sit on this fitting. It looks rough in highly magnified pictures but worked out really well...various metallic colours used, mainly Alclad II metals.

      

 

   

 

 

Next was to fit the HT leads and crack on with carburetors and inlet trumpets...

      

 

   

 

 

The engine was then offered up to the chassis and put into its final position. 

   

 

 

Final part of HT leads was fitted, I used Tamiya wire cable (0.8mm I think) in place of the MFH supplied cable as this was far too hard and offered little flexibility to complete smooth sharp curves. 

Upper chassis rails were fitted with ridiculous screws. I have touched these in and they are less invasive but suspect I will fill the heads with solder and repaint to lose them completely. 

    

 

 

I then worked on the cockpit interior by fitting the fuel lines. I was going to use clear brown tube, but looking at the biege cable MFH provided I preferred the look of that so have gone with the kit supplied fuel lines. I have no idea where they are supposed to go and there are several lines coming out of a variety of valves and shut offs. I made this up completely and made lines to go to the side mounted fuel tanks. The real car had a central tank behind the drivers head but this is not provided in the MFH kit. I may be looking at different reference pics so it may be that it was not present in my version of the car. 

   

 

Next requirement was to complete the front end, this meant completing the front wheel hubs and steering assembly, building and fitting the radiator and oil cooler? as well as front suspension linkages.

Wheels hubs first. These simply followed same assembly process as the rear hubs. Wheel hubs  were sprayed in Proscale Etch primer, then dusted in Alclad II Duraluminum after a black under coat. Lots of spray work to get a grey colour....Fuel tanks were drilled out and riveted and sprayed in Alclad II High Speed Silver prior to a black wash and some fuel grime. I forgot to take pictures of this process but it is as boring as it sounds...they do always lift the builds though. 

       

 

       

 

 

So, the eagle eyed among you may notice my deliberate mistake here. The front wheel hubs are held together by two screws internally, upper and lower which go through the hub into the upper and lower wishbones/arms. An external screw then holds through the centre, the outer wheel hub (half) The steering arm is then fitted over this screw. Being clever and enjoying my soldering iron, I chose to solder the steering arms in situ for a strong and sturdy assembly. I was VERY pleased with how they came out...until when i went to fit them to the chassis, I noticed I had fitted two lower arms to one side and two upper arms to the opposite hub. Bugger. 

This meant intense disassembly following much swearing. Solder, superglue and little screws were taken apart and parts exchanged. This did not go without casualties. One arm decided to seperate from its screw point. On reassembly, parts required further solder and the end result is not as good as it was on first build but I can live with it. Some detail has been lost amidst solder but it is solid and strong. 

It's okay, I can own my mistakes. 

 

Needed a lift so cracked on with the radiator assemblies...these were painted in Alclad II White Aluminium and Tamiya LP-5 Semi Gloss Black. Hoses were Tamiya LP-65 Rubber Black. given some light washes, this sub assembly completed nicely and rejuvenated my wheel hub mojo...Front brake lines were fitted but again I forgot to take photos of this. 

       

 

        

 

 

The frame joints were soldered to ensure their solidity and this worked really well with the solder flowing nicely into the joints. These were then touched up afterwards. The Mr Color paint proving to be very heat resistant and resilient. The exhausts were treated to some paint, in this case some Mr Color Semi gloss Black and the headers given a misting of Burnt Iron just for a bit of ageing. This does not show well in the last picture but looks good in reality. 

    

 

   

 

 

All of this preparation was to get into a position where the bodywork could start to be test fitted and fettled into place to allow paint and prep of the skin. The bodywork comprises of several seperate parts of mainly resin  but with a white metal bonnet and air scoop surround. These are held in place with 1.4 x 3.0mm screws. These will be changed for slightly longer ones in final assembly to ensure they bet enough purchase to hold parts in place. The kit supplied screws often only have 0.5mm thread going into the part it is trying to hold together.

 

    

 

It's getting there...

 

 

Now, I figured while I wait on body work paint to dry and decals to set up, I would do a wheel or two...this is a work in progress because I just wanted to try one...body work is still untouched...six rows of twelve spokes and twelve nipples, this is about half way through...inner hubs hand drilled for the spokes (0.4mm holes)

 

Once this wheel is finished, I will be etch priming the body work and starting on that. This will mean, Etch primer, rub down, pink filler primer, rub down, more pink primer, rub down, body colour (Proscale Ferrari Rosso Corsa PS -2033), rub down, Final body colour, decals, Proscale 2K, and a polish....

 

Thanks for looking. Apologies for the thousands of pictures but any Ferrari deserves pictures....

[Peter Milgate]

Working is progressing steadily on the MFH Ferrari D50....

 

I completed the first wheel and am pleased with how that has come out. The spokes are a bit sticky into end of fingers when you try to coax them into the appropriate hole....but they look good when in place. Following the instructions and working methodically around each row, the wheel eventually comes together. The end of each inner spoke requires a small bend applied to allow it to sit into the hole you are required to drill on the wheel hub/centre, but you soon get an idea of how far to bend and the angle changes on each row a little bit. 

  

 

Once the wires are glued into place, the wheel is undone and separated from the holding carrier. this allows a dollop (technical term) of CA to be put on inside of axle mounting hole to add extra security to the inner spokes. Once set. I used a file to smooth the inner rim to allow it to glide over the axle. It appears to have worked out okay...so far...one down, three to go...

  

 

On with the build...

Grey Etch primer covers the whole of the bodywork, resin and metal to begin to establish a stable base platform for paint.

      

 

 

Pit stop to complete another wheel while paint dries...two down, two to go. This is both fronts wheels built up The second is definitely better than the first, but its all a learning curve.

 

 

 

While waiting on things, I remembered I needed to fit the rear brake lines so set about that. Now, my reference materials are nonexistent for this car so this is all made up by me, so historical accuracy is far from guaranteed. I did what I thought would look right(ish) The kit instructions are ridiculously vague, only informing you to use 0.8mm black wire. It gives no indication of how to route it or where it should terminate. 

So I figured the two rear hubs would be connected somehow and then end at a brake lever looking thing in the cockpit. So that's what I did. Not sure if it should be two single lines independently leading to the brake pedal or two joining up and a single line going to the foot pedal or two lines going to the ?hand brake? It looks busy and it should have some lines and there are, but accuracy....well, that's something else...

      

 

It might not be correct, but I like it.

 

Next for the bodywork was the first light coat of pink primer to build up and correct any surface blemishes, divots or holes. This was done and wet sanded down to what you see below. I am going to throw another solid coat of pink over it next to get a good solid base for the Ferrari Rosso Corsa paint. 

  

 

In pink, it is starting to look more Ferrari like...

Until next update, thanks for looking. 

[Peter Milgate]

Work continues to continue Model Factory Hiro 1/12 scale Ferrari D50....

 

Some small jobs to move it forward in between various coats of primer and paint...pink is down on bodywork so as that dried I did some upholstery.

The seat and headrest were etch primered and then given a blast of Tamiya Red Brown (XF 64 I think) as a base coat in case of any bits showing after the trimmer was finished.

 

      

 

I wasn't too sure how the self adhesive cloth would be but it seems to hold very strongly so I did not use any additional glue. Time will tell if this was a good decision or not, but it came out okay. 

Should look good in the car. 

 

Time for more painting...this time, some Ferrari Red Rosso Corsa.. Sorry about quality of pictures and lighting.

      

 

      

 

   

 

 

So while that dried, I thought, what next...so I figured I would attempt the dashboard clocks. These are odd as I could not work out how to connect them correctly to any output from the engine (such as oil pressure or tachometer) so they will just sit in dashboard unconnected to the engine. These were tricky little blighters, all base coated in Semi Gloss Black (Tamiya LP-5), the large Tachometer then painted in Sparkling Silver (Tamiya LP-48)

Decals were fitted and teased to conform better with Ultimate Decal Solutions (normal) 

      

 

You get an option of using a decal with the decal or to add a PE needle, which I chose to do.  It's really small but you might notice it in an open cockpit car. The glazing was fitted and held in place with Clearfix. This updates small mistake was putting a glazing circle on and then realising it still had the protective film on it still. on the inside of the dial. An easy remedy once noticed. They have dried nice and clear. 

 

 

Back to bodywork...

The spray booth was cleaned out, relined and a new filter fitted. damped down and the 2K could commence...using Proscale 2K. I am very pleased with the results. The more I do, the better I get, at it. I'm not at the high standard seen on some of the epic builds on here but I am very pleased with my work. 

   

 

   

 

I do like a red car....The nose decal is fitted to a PE background/plate. I was considering using an Ejan vinyl one but they were not the right size so on with the kit supplied. Under the 2K it looks fine. As I say, it's not perfect but my get out of jail free card is that in 1955/6. it would n't have been. It will get some dirt/grime but not much. I just hope it bolts back on to the chassis as it did during the test fitting. I have purchased a set of slightly longer screws to help keep it secure and in position at final assembly. 

 

So. while that cures off a bit...another wheel...

 

This is the third wheel, first of the rears. Still a pain to drill out the central hub but not as big a chore to lace as you think they may be, quite enjoyable but I'm not sure I would like to make them all in one go. 

 

Once the 2K has cured a bit, the body inner will be masked and internal aluminium shades put onto cockpit floor and inner panels. Some metal detail work to pick out on rear hump etc.

Until the next update, Thanks, as always for looking. 

[Peter Milgate]

Final push to the finish line...

 

So interior metal work was painted in Flat Aluminium so prior to bodywork being finally fitted the already prepped exhausts were glued into position. I used 5 min epoxy for this to try to ensure a solid joint. The exhausts are glued at the cylinder head and rest upon the lower bodywork floor pan. 

 

   

 

 

The body panels are held in position with 1.3 x 3mm screws. I substituted these with 4mm length screws to improve their traction and grip. Once the lower floor was in place I added the rear cockpit bulkhead and prop-shaft which diagonals the car from engine to gearbox. This completed the cockpit interior. 

 

         

 

 

 

 

The rear bodywork which covers the (non-existent) rear fuel tank was next to be tweaked. This needed the fuel cap to be added from white metal and PE parts. The fabric covered head rest was secured in place, again with 2 part epoxy. 

 

      

 

 

I started on the main body shell next, adding the cockpit dials and just picking out the rivets in Sparkling Silver (Tamiya LP-48) In hindsight, I would remove these prior to paint and replace with proper rivet detail. 

A small job to be done was to add the wheel spinners to the turned nuts to hold the wheels on!!!

 

      

 

   

 

 

A small detail I was apprehensive about tackling was the wooden ?Nardi steering wheel. This is made of two resin parts (the wood) and a PE centre held together by several flat head rivets. 

After asking friends for advice, I did this by hand, using the Vallejo Wood and Leather set. Base colour of dark sand, followed by dry-brushed orange brown, wood-grain and black. All blended together with Tamiya Clear Orange X-26. The rivets were tricky to get through but patience led to a finish I was very pleased with. Cavallino decal in the centre and job done!!

 

 

   

 

     

 

 

The tricky a*se windscreen was next. This was several PE pieces sandwiching a plastic shield with two, pain in the a*se wing nuts. Held together with four metal rivets. This was a royal pain. Not sure if it was my mind set as it was the final parts or just a fiddly element to construct. I had forgotten to spray this so it was hand painted in Tamiya Italian Red LP-21. A good match for a detailed little part. The wing mirrors had PE inserts for the actual rear view glass, these, as in previous builds were covered in chrome Bare Metal Foil which provide a better mirror impression than just PE. They were glued into position. 

 

   

 

All of this delicious detial is lost under the bodywork, never to be seen again....

Next up...polishing and final pictures...

[Peter Milgate]

Done, Finito. Completed. Fertig. Terminer. Crioch. 

 

This is the final item. This will be picture heavy....

 

Model Factory Hiro, Model K-581 Full Detail Kit Ferrari D50 Ver B, 1956 French Grand Prix. 

 

      

 

            

 

       

 

        

 

    

 

       

 

 

This was painted in Proscale Metal Etch primer, Proscale Rosso Corsa and Prosclae 2K lacquer clear coat. 

A variety of metal paints were used and I have tried to list these in the build log. 

 

Final Impressions:

A lovely build. The wire wheels were easier than I expected but the wheel hubs require drilling out rather than the GTO ones which are built up. That was a pain in the fingers. Lost count of how many times I drew blood drilling and sticking 0.3mm spokes into place!!!

The engine built nicely but I was disappointed with the lack of electrical wiring identified. This again is my failing as I am sure I could have found better references to get this information.

Soldering the metal chassis frame lent it to a (hopefully) much stronger chassis. 

Upholstering the seat was also much easier than I anticipated.

My feeble attempts to get the nose on properly annoyed me, but this went on fine when test fitting, then when in paint, it refused to sit as it should. Due to being covered in paint and 2K I did not want to try to heat and flex the nose section any more but the cross member on the chassis seems half an inch too low to get a decent solid connection. 

Considering I ordered the wrong kit, I am very, very pleased with the final result. 

 

Thanks for looking...next on the bench, some plastic, a Wingnut Wings F1 Sopwith Camel and then the 1/12 Mclaren MP 4/8, used by Ayrton Senna at the European GP at Doningtom Park. 

 

 

 

[Pouln]

Peter, I just in time caught up with your build. This came out as a really beautiful model. One you should be proud of. 

[Noel Smith]

Really nice model build. Very impressive.

 

[Vesa Jussila]

Really nice one. Always nice to see these built.

[Flintstone]

Lovely!

[pg265]

Hi,

This is a very beautiful build!

All the detailed steps of construction are  well explained and the result is really great.

 

Pascal