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Peter Milgate

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About Peter Milgate

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    Stafford, Midlands

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  1. Not sure on 934 but 935 has cross pipes in rear chassis connecting rads...if this is what you are referring to??
  2. Thanks Ron, I've drop the front by about 7.5mm but I think the rears would require too much disassembly to lower further so will have to live with them. No easy access to top of shocks due to interior being fitted and engine in. Don't fancy messing with either of those at this stage. It does highlight how out the original Tamiya instructions were as I would have built these to plans.... Thanks again Ron, gonna check out your Mclaren now as I think I might do one of those next... Pete
  3. Thanks Ron, I have reference pics but just threw body on quickly for photos and working out wiring routes. Will adjust it's setup/stance properly when doing final body fitting. Any pics are gratefully received though. Thanks Pete
  4. So a bit of progress with lighting, not as much as hoped for but have continued to be busy with life stuff... Wiring completed for front, rear and overhead lights. Hole made under car for some wiring to pass through, this was small slot to allow connector to pass through. Loom was made using RC servo connectors forming three way loom into singular, switched battery. Car wiring simply plugs in to allow removal from hard-standing. This comprises of separate front wings, rear body and ceiling lights. All the wiring is still rough but needed to be completed to enable it to be fixed into position on chassis and routing completed. This will then be hidden as best as I can and once weathered I hope it will blend in better. Then the body shell can have final fitting and work towards final decals and weathering etc. Pictures below show lighting effects. I'm very happy with results as first time fitting lights into a scale model... So tidying up and securing of wires can be tackled now, and I think I need to look at front ride height, seems a bit tall to me but I haven't checked reference pics yet...I did take a chunk out of the roof decal but figure it looks old and will cover with some dirt!!! I was swearing when I noticed it though...
  5. Covid 19 has not enabled me to complete any further work or progress forward (I'm a nurse!!!) This is a little update to show slow progress over very busy period...Acrylic sheets arrived, cut to size with polished edges, along with some Tensol 12 adhesive. I had been quoted up to £350 for a bespoke plastic box, self building brought that down to about £45...I've never built one before but am very happy with result. Simply remove protective film, masking tape it together and run Tensol around joints with syringe. Capillary action carries it into joints and allow to set over several days. Mine has clear three sides and mirror finish on rear. I'm very pleased with outcome and the anxiety of the process was well rewarded. Use a bit of forward planning and go for it. If I can do it, anyone can. Just don't over do the Tensol. Some close ups of the wall interiors and dressings. These will be weathered but I just couldn't resist laying some bits out to check effect. These are simple 3D printed 1/12 scale purchases through ebay. I have tried to use period style wall posters and most are relative to myself. The overall effect is pleasing, apologies for Roger getting in on the reflection....Final image gives an impression of the room available in the case/base. Currently working on the baseboard wiring, the car will have a detachable cable which runs underneath the floorpan and into a hole in the middle of the garage floor. The roof lights obviously exit through the back wall and down the rear to a switched battery box which powers them both. With a weeks annual leave coming up, I can focus on trying to get the body build finished and this eternal project finished...
  6. Hi JCH, Sorry but i don't have any pearls of wisdom for you. Generally i rough up the surface of the powder with the rubber tip until I have some fine powder and utilise the brush edge to apply. I simply continue until satisfied with effect. I think the most important part is to use the correct shades for what you are weathering, so my interior floor pan is dusted in rust from Set B. I think i have used a variety for mud and discolouration on the exterior floor and wheel arches but these remain a work in progress but will be tackled soon. Apologies for slow response. Check out Google, for tank weathering guides and they will give a better insight and advice than I can. Thanks Peter
  7. More base work update...Walls bricked and floor laid...some posters slung up on the walls. Micro led's fitted to rear of car and now preparing to complete wiring before final fit of body. Image show some of the un-weathered detail elements. Case has been ordered with mirror back wall. The micro led's are so small in comparison it's ridiculous. Not impeding on rear sub-frame and great light. Very pleased with their performance.
  8. Bit of scratch building during weekend. LED's arrived very promptly so allowed some easy modelling fun...building overhead lights using what scrap materials I had already in the house...I think them came out okay but admit they need more work to avoid light bleeding through. I will probably simply fit some bacofoil reflectors internally but it gives a good impression of what I'm trying to achieve.... Waiting on printer ink to commence floor and walls...can now fit rear lights as they have arrived as well...so body off and back with car build.
  9. Had some time today and managed to assemble base. This will allow me to get final perspex box measurements for ordering box. Second rough image gives an idea of my plan....I have also ordered some odd 1/12 scale accessories to bring some life to display. Looking at gap below car, I don't think an inspection pit would be worthwhile. New LED's are also in post on way to me now.... Aerial is dry fitted to get height measurement.
  10. So....few issues with rear fitting led's. No room between engine subframe and internal of rear bumper. So tight I could n't get normal LED in situ, therefore rethink required. I have therefore ordered some replacement flat LED's which hopefully will fit with no issues.While I await them, I also ordered some bits for case. So I've purchased a base board, concrete hard standing and brick wall vinyl with a fake door!!! I also have on order additional LED lighting to illuminate case from above. Thinking of strip lights in a garage, some Porsche posters on wall with part of back wall in a large mirror. I have got price for perspex box (270mm x 430mm x 190mm in 4mm -£21.00 from perspexsheet.uk) but need to complete base prior to final order to check final sizing. This will have three clear sides, large rear part mirrored. Might build shallow pit inspection box into base with mirror in. Finally a couple of engine bay WIP shots..... I did struggle with engine bay hinges fouling on 'carburettor' intake despite this being standard kit parts with no extras from me....they seem okay now after I was forced to shave some material off the inlet. As she sits now, Obviously body will need to be removed again for fitting of new rear led bulbs and to finalise routing of wiring. Hope pics work....
  11. Changed to village.photos, and seems to be working fine now. Thanks for your patience...
  12. Hi folks, just no pics in second post? Having trouble (as always) with them. Will try and sort tomorrow. Can you see glazing pictures?
  13. I have started to weather up the chassis and wheel arches. Starting with 'factory fresh.... dirt added using Tamiya weathering powders (Soot and Rust) and a black wash. Just to give impression of grime from race circuit running. On the undertray, I tried to streak towards the rear of the car... It's not bad but I am disappointed with how the wash has taken on the brake discs so I will revisit that later...now working on routing of rear light wiring prior to main assembly, then just a few decals, quick bit of bodyshell weathering, sort out display base and glass lid...job done....should only take another six months at this rate....
  14. Coors54, just been working on glazing. A personal hate of mine and something I would happily avoid when possible. I wrecked side quarter windows, ended up replacing those with 1mm clear styrene. Front and rear screens seem fine and I'm pleased with how their fitting went.
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