Peter Milgate

Done, Finito. Completed. Fertig. Terminer. Crioch. This is the final item. This will be picture heavy.... Model Factory Hiro, Model K-581 Full Detail Kit Ferrari D50 Ver B, 1956 French Grand Prix. This was painted in Proscale Metal Etch primer, Proscale Rosso Corsa and Prosclae 2K lacquer clear coat. A variety of metal paints were used and I have tried to list these in the build log. Final Impressions: A lovely build. The wire wheels were easier than I expected but the wheel hubs require drilling out rather than the GTO ones which are built up. That was a pain in the fingers. Lost count of how many times I drew blood drilling and sticking 0.3mm spokes into place!!! The engine built nicely but I was disappointed with the lack of electrical wiring identified. This again is my failing as I am sure I could have found better references to get this information. Soldering the metal chassis frame lent it to a (hopefully) much stronger chassis. Upholstering the seat was also much easier than I anticipated. My feeble attempts to get the nose on properly annoyed me, but this went on fine when test fitting, then when in paint, it refused to sit as it should. Due to being covered in paint and 2K I did not want to try to heat and flex the nose section any more but the cross member on the chassis seems half an inch too low to get a decent solid connection. Considering I ordered the wrong kit, I am very, very pleased with the final result. Thanks for looking...next on the bench, some plastic, a Wingnut Wings F1 Sopwith Camel and then the 1/12 Mclaren MP 4/8, used by Ayrton Senna at the European GP at Doningtom Park.

Final push to the finish line... So interior metal work was painted in Flat Aluminium so prior to bodywork being finally fitted the already prepped exhausts were glued into position. I used 5 min epoxy for this to try to ensure a solid joint. The exhausts are glued at the cylinder head and rest upon the lower bodywork floor pan. The body panels are held in position with 1.3 x 3mm screws. I substituted these with 4mm length screws to improve their traction and grip. Once the lower floor was in place I added the rear cockpit bulkhead and prop-shaft which diagonals the car from engine to gearbox. This completed the cockpit interior. The rear bodywork which covers the (non-existent) rear fuel tank was next to be tweaked. This needed the fuel cap to be added from white metal and PE parts. The fabric covered head rest was secured in place, again with 2 part epoxy. I started on the main body shell next, adding the cockpit dials and just picking out the rivets in Sparkling Silver (Tamiya LP-48) In hindsight, I would remove these prior to paint and replace with proper rivet detail. A small job to be done was to add the wheel spinners to the turned nuts to hold the wheels on!!! A small detail I was apprehensive about tackling was the wooden ?Nardi steering wheel. This is made of two resin parts (the wood) and a PE centre held together by several flat head rivets. After asking friends for advice, I did this by hand, using the Vallejo Wood and Leather set. Base colour of dark sand, followed by dry-brushed orange brown, wood-grain and black. All blended together with Tamiya Clear Orange X-26. The rivets were tricky to get through but patience led to a finish I was very pleased with. Cavallino decal in the centre and job done!! The tricky a*se windscreen was next. This was several PE pieces sandwiching a plastic shield with two, pain in the a*se wing nuts. Held together with four metal rivets. This was a royal pain. Not sure if it was my mind set as it was the final parts or just a fiddly element to construct. I had forgotten to spray this so it was hand painted in Tamiya Italian Red LP-21. A good match for a detailed little part. The wing mirrors had PE inserts for the actual rear view glass, these, as in previous builds were covered in chrome Bare Metal Foil which provide a better mirror impression than just PE. They were glued into position. All of this delicious detial is lost under the bodywork, never to be seen again.... Next up...polishing and final pictures...

Work continues to continue Model Factory Hiro 1/12 scale Ferrari D50.... Some small jobs to move it forward in between various coats of primer and paint...pink is down on bodywork so as that dried I did some upholstery. The seat and headrest were etch primered and then given a blast of Tamiya Red Brown (XF 64 I think) as a base coat in case of any bits showing after the trimmer was finished. I wasn't too sure how the self adhesive cloth would be but it seems to hold very strongly so I did not use any additional glue. Time will tell if this was a good decision or not, but it came out okay. Should look good in the car. Time for more painting...this time, some Ferrari Red Rosso Corsa.. Sorry about quality of pictures and lighting. So while that dried, I thought, what next...so I figured I would attempt the dashboard clocks. These are odd as I could not work out how to connect them correctly to any output from the engine (such as oil pressure or tachometer) so they will just sit in dashboard unconnected to the engine. These were tricky little blighters, all base coated in Semi Gloss Black (Tamiya LP-5), the large Tachometer then painted in Sparkling Silver (Tamiya LP-48) Decals were fitted and teased to conform better with Ultimate Decal Solutions (normal) You get an option of using a decal with the decal or to add a PE needle, which I chose to do. It's really small but you might notice it in an open cockpit car. The glazing was fitted and held in place with Clearfix. This updates small mistake was putting a glazing circle on and then realising it still had the protective film on it still. on the inside of the dial. An easy remedy once noticed. They have dried nice and clear. Back to bodywork... The spray booth was cleaned out, relined and a new filter fitted. damped down and the 2K could commence...using Proscale 2K. I am very pleased with the results. The more I do, the better I get, at it. I'm not at the high standard seen on some of the epic builds on here but I am very pleased with my work. I do like a red car....The nose decal is fitted to a PE background/plate. I was considering using an Ejan vinyl one but they were not the right size so on with the kit supplied. Under the 2K it looks fine. As I say, it's not perfect but my get out of jail free card is that in 1955/6. it would n't have been. It will get some dirt/grime but not much. I just hope it bolts back on to the chassis as it did during the test fitting. I have purchased a set of slightly longer screws to help keep it secure and in position at final assembly. So. while that cures off a bit...another wheel... This is the third wheel, first of the rears. Still a pain to drill out the central hub but not as big a chore to lace as you think they may be, quite enjoyable but I'm not sure I would like to make them all in one go. Once the 2K has cured a bit, the body inner will be masked and internal aluminium shades put onto cockpit floor and inner panels. Some metal detail work to pick out on rear hump etc. Until the next update, Thanks, as always for looking.

Working is progressing steadily on the MFH Ferrari D50.... I completed the first wheel and am pleased with how that has come out. The spokes are a bit sticky into end of fingers when you try to coax them into the appropriate hole....but they look good when in place. Following the instructions and working methodically around each row, the wheel eventually comes together. The end of each inner spoke requires a small bend applied to allow it to sit into the hole you are required to drill on the wheel hub/centre, but you soon get an idea of how far to bend and the angle changes on each row a little bit. Once the wires are glued into place, the wheel is undone and separated from the holding carrier. this allows a dollop (technical term) of CA to be put on inside of axle mounting hole to add extra security to the inner spokes. Once set. I used a file to smooth the inner rim to allow it to glide over the axle. It appears to have worked out okay...so far...one down, three to go... On with the build... Grey Etch primer covers the whole of the bodywork, resin and metal to begin to establish a stable base platform for paint. Pit stop to complete another wheel while paint dries...two down, two to go. This is both fronts wheels built up The second is definitely better than the first, but its all a learning curve. While waiting on things, I remembered I needed to fit the rear brake lines so set about that. Now, my reference materials are nonexistent for this car so this is all made up by me, so historical accuracy is far from guaranteed. I did what I thought would look right(ish) The kit instructions are ridiculously vague, only informing you to use 0.8mm black wire. It gives no indication of how to route it or where it should terminate. So I figured the two rear hubs would be connected somehow and then end at a brake lever looking thing in the cockpit. So that's what I did. Not sure if it should be two single lines independently leading to the brake pedal or two joining up and a single line going to the foot pedal or two lines going to the ?hand brake? It looks busy and it should have some lines and there are, but accuracy....well, that's something else... It might not be correct, but I like it. Next for the bodywork was the first light coat of pink primer to build up and correct any surface blemishes, divots or holes. This was done and wet sanded down to what you see below. I am going to throw another solid coat of pink over it next to get a good solid base for the Ferrari Rosso Corsa paint. In pink, it is starting to look more Ferrari like... Until next update, thanks for looking.

Further progress update on the Ferrari D50. Focused on the engine, built up the main body and got some etch primer onto it. Obviously had to do some fake, in chassis pics because the odd offset is what attracted me to this model... With the cam covers? on, I was left with a nasty step so I built this up with some rough plastic card to bring up the levels. The HT leads/distributor? sit on this fitting. It looks rough in highly magnified pictures but worked out really well...various metallic colours used, mainly Alclad II metals. Next was to fit the HT leads and crack on with carburetors and inlet trumpets... The engine was then offered up to the chassis and put into its final position. Final part of HT leads was fitted, I used Tamiya wire cable (0.8mm I think) in place of the MFH supplied cable as this was far too hard and offered little flexibility to complete smooth sharp curves. Upper chassis rails were fitted with ridiculous screws. I have touched these in and they are less invasive but suspect I will fill the heads with solder and repaint to lose them completely. I then worked on the cockpit interior by fitting the fuel lines. I was going to use clear brown tube, but looking at the biege cable MFH provided I preferred the look of that so have gone with the kit supplied fuel lines. I have no idea where they are supposed to go and there are several lines coming out of a variety of valves and shut offs. I made this up completely and made lines to go to the side mounted fuel tanks. The real car had a central tank behind the drivers head but this is not provided in the MFH kit. I may be looking at different reference pics so it may be that it was not present in my version of the car. Next requirement was to complete the front end, this meant completing the front wheel hubs and steering assembly, building and fitting the radiator and oil cooler? as well as front suspension linkages. Wheels hubs first. These simply followed same assembly process as the rear hubs. Wheel hubs were sprayed in Proscale Etch primer, then dusted in Alclad II Duraluminum after a black under coat. Lots of spray work to get a grey colour....Fuel tanks were drilled out and riveted and sprayed in Alclad II High Speed Silver prior to a black wash and some fuel grime. I forgot to take pictures of this process but it is as boring as it sounds...they do always lift the builds though. So, the eagle eyed among you may notice my deliberate mistake here. The front wheel hubs are held together by two screws internally, upper and lower which go through the hub into the upper and lower wishbones/arms. An external screw then holds through the centre, the outer wheel hub (half) The steering arm is then fitted over this screw. Being clever and enjoying my soldering iron, I chose to solder the steering arms in situ for a strong and sturdy assembly. I was VERY pleased with how they came out...until when i went to fit them to the chassis, I noticed I had fitted two lower arms to one side and two upper arms to the opposite hub. Bugger. This meant intense disassembly following much swearing. Solder, superglue and little screws were taken apart and parts exchanged. This did not go without casualties. One arm decided to seperate from its screw point. On reassembly, parts required further solder and the end result is not as good as it was on first build but I can live with it. Some detail has been lost amidst solder but it is solid and strong. It's okay, I can own my mistakes. Needed a lift so cracked on with the radiator assemblies...these were painted in Alclad II White Aluminium and Tamiya LP-5 Semi Gloss Black. Hoses were Tamiya LP-65 Rubber Black. given some light washes, this sub assembly completed nicely and rejuvenated my wheel hub mojo...Front brake lines were fitted but again I forgot to take photos of this. The frame joints were soldered to ensure their solidity and this worked really well with the solder flowing nicely into the joints. These were then touched up afterwards. The Mr Color paint proving to be very heat resistant and resilient. The exhausts were treated to some paint, in this case some Mr Color Semi gloss Black and the headers given a misting of Burnt Iron just for a bit of ageing. This does not show well in the last picture but looks good in reality. All of this preparation was to get into a position where the bodywork could start to be test fitted and fettled into place to allow paint and prep of the skin. The bodywork comprises of several seperate parts of mainly resin but with a white metal bonnet and air scoop surround. These are held in place with 1.4 x 3.0mm screws. These will be changed for slightly longer ones in final assembly to ensure they bet enough purchase to hold parts in place. The kit supplied screws often only have 0.5mm thread going into the part it is trying to hold together. It's getting there... Now, I figured while I wait on body work paint to dry and decals to set up, I would do a wheel or two...this is a work in progress because I just wanted to try one...body work is still untouched...six rows of twelve spokes and twelve nipples, this is about half way through...inner hubs hand drilled for the spokes (0.4mm holes) Once this wheel is finished, I will be etch priming the body work and starting on that. This will mean, Etch primer, rub down, pink filler primer, rub down, more pink primer, rub down, body colour (Proscale Ferrari Rosso Corsa PS -2033), rub down, Final body colour, decals, Proscale 2K, and a polish.... Thanks for looking. Apologies for the thousands of pictures but any Ferrari deserves pictures....

Work is progrssing on the chassis, next step is to get some Proscale Etch metal primer down and then some Mr Color Grey (35) Side panels were painted in Proscale Bright Aluminum prior to being masked off and the Grey top coat gunned on. The gearbox was next on the list, which is resin with white metal detail parts. this was etch primered and sprayed in Proscale Steel PS-2205 as a base colour. Ancillaries were given different shades of silvers and grey mettallics to add some tonal variation. The provided clutch? spring was too long, I had some spare short exhaust springs but these were 2mm too short so I made a replacement out of thin wire wrappred arround a 0.5mm bar. This was adjusted to the required length and CA'd into place. The gearbox was installed into the chassis and the front bulk head was attached using long cramps to ensure it was snuggly set in position. Once set, I added some of the small parts (fuel stopcocks and valves including some initial fuel tubing. I used my favored clear fuel tubing but may change this at a later date. Not sure if I prefer the clear or the kit supplied biege colured tubing.... . Some extra gearbox linkages fitted into place.... Next work is to assemble the front leaf spring and fittings...made from individual leaves... The same was completed for the rear leaf spring assembly... The pedal box was built and put into position...and that completed Stages One, Two and Three...various parts of Stages Four, Five and Six have been completed in oreder to get the whole chassis prepped. Next item on the agenda was the rear wheel hubs, which had several (hundreds) of air vent/cooling holes in them. I elected to drill these out as I have figured previously these kits deserve that extra attention and you are rewarded with a better finished model, so I drilled out the vents...no one will ever notice, but they are now real holes not dimples in metal... The rear axle has small stub axles which are screwed onto the main axle. These were cleaned for soldering, screwed in and then soldered in place. This has worked incredibly well, creating a lovely stron joint. Once cleaned and touched up with the base Mr Color 35 chassis paint ti has resulted in a nice joint. Rear wheel is simply dry fitted at present to check fit and look. Front anti-roll bar was fitted to front sub frame and that is nearly the chassis completed... Chassis (es?) complete. Time for Stage Seven which is the engine block...basic block is resin with typical metal additions. And that is up to date on the build so far...all metal parts have been through the tumbler and cleaned. I will work through the engine which seems a more simpler build than my previous MFH Ferrari F1-67 V12 engine. Thanks for looking.

Stage One continues... More fettling of parts to ensure fitment. Lots of holes drilled and parts slotted together. Chassis parts soldered together slowly and carefully. Felt like I needed eight hands to hold this together initially, on the first day I could easily have thrown this out the window out of frustration. I stopped, stepped away and returned the follwing night, which went much better. I was more relaxed and it went much better. This is the rear part of the chassis, from rear axle up to front bulkhead/firewall. The rear axle is held on by two screws which recieve covering caps, which once slodered in place completely hide the screw heads. The front section of the chassis was next up, with the wheel hubs consisting of four seperate parts, soldered together. Once these were solid, I went on to drill some more holes... And this is progress so far. All parts which should be in grey are cleaned and ready for first step of etch primer prior to paint. Those odd parts include top stretchers for the engine bay, front suspension and brackets for the front leaf springs. The chassis is in two larger sub assemblies and I am reluctant to join them at this time as I would need to add the Foot pedals/floor and engine bulkhead. To avoid having to do lots of subsequent masking, I think it might be easier to join them after paint and touch up afterwards. So, off to the paint boothe.... Etch primer will be Proscale Etch Metal Primer PS-1006. Grey will be Mr Color 35 (which equates to IJN Grey) Thanks for looking, catch you later.

Quick update: So. it seems two weeks was a bit optimistic....🤨 And off we go again, First few stages of parts have been cleaned and polished in the tumbler. Parts sorted and dryed. Stage One commences with the chassis and gearbox with mount. This meant lots of holes to be drilled and much test fitting whilst trying to hold parts together. In reality an extra three hands would have come in useful. But I got there eventually. All holes drilled and parts straightened where they needed to be straight and bent where they needed to be bent.... Plan is to solder the chassis together but test fit is first step. It appears it may be prudent to do chassis for Stage One, Two, Three, Four and Five as they share paint and it may be easier to get a better finish on the tubework. I will fit the rear axle as well. Anyway, I need to snad and file now to finalise shapes before reaching for the flux and solder. I have drilled the footpedals and all parts for Stage One, Two and Three. If it is chassis colour (Light Grey) then it will be attached provided its placement won't get in the way of fitting something later down the build. This is the parts layout for Stage One and Two. And a dry fit of the chassis parts (Stage One) That's it for now, but it is finally underway...looking forward to this build, but then I do like a red car...😃

Thanks Chris

Hello Folks, Back again for a delicious Model factory Hiro model. I elected to buy this to cut my teeth on the wire wheels and because I thought it to be a different version of a beautifuil car. So I present the build log of the Ferrari (Lancia) D50 in my preferred 1/12 scale. I was drawn to this by it's peculiar off set engine layout and obviously, its a red Ferrari.... So, first step with any MFH build is to check the parts are all there. I had layout shots of this parts count available on the MFH website so used these to compare against. Large resin parts and turned wheel rims etc are easily checked but the white metal can contain many small parts to consider and account for. I laid them out and compared the pictiures of parts on the website. So, with all parts present and accounted for, its time to sort them into build stages and I do this by seperating the parts for each section and placing them into a compartments box. They will then be clean in the magnetic tumbler before assembly can start. I have ordered some relevant paint from Proscale Paints so the fun will soon begin. There will be a slight delay while I complete a resin Ariel Atom but that should be a quick build, so I expect to return to this build within two weeks....Thanks for looking.

Hello All, As part of a TV series/Move based group build, I chose out of my limiyed stash options to build the model featured below: My options were a 1/9th scale Italeri WW2 german motorcycle and sidecar (from Indiana Jones), a Thunderbird Two hangar diorama in 1/350th scale or as identified above, the beautiful Kawasaki GPz900R that Maverick races up Laurel Street in Top Gun, pursued by the equally beautiful Charlie in her Porsche 956. The kit is in 1/12 scale from Aoshima, with a Blue Stuff decal set. Paint used was a set available from Zero Paints, covered in Proscale Paints Zero 2K. It is built out the box, so for me, a straight forward build with minimal additional extras. Apologies but I did not take many build pictures so the first set are from a well progressed build with the engine assembled and fitted into the frame. I used mutliple shades of blacks for this build in order to achieve some sort of modulation. So this has utilised Gloss black, Semi-gloss Black, NATO black, Rubber black and Matt black. These were mainly Tamiya LP's but I hacve used soem Mr Color as well. So, rear wheel and swinging arm in place. Few decals on engine cases. I did put a drop of engine grime into the oil inspection window which worked out okay I think. Radiator got a bit of colour for the fan, not that anyone can see it after final assembly....hey ho. I did cut the rear mudguard down and produced a licence plate out of plasticard. After I had done this, Ifound in the kit box, the short rear mudguard so used that in the end!! My fault for not looking closely enough. Wheels were painted with Mr Color Semi -gloss black with MHLT. The decal set comes with masking templates for the black and red and these worked really well. The fairing was straight forward and just used white lining stripes where needed. Semms strange there is no white line on the lower fairing between the red and black. But this reflects the original. Lines were put on the tank followed by the placing of a multitude of fighter school based stickers. There are two versions of the bike in the film and both are catered for in the decal set. It is only minimal differences in sticker placement. The white lines had quite a distinct carrier film but this disappeared nicely under the excellent Proscale Paints 2K lacquer. Once the paintwork was done and while that set up. I worked on the remianin bike frame. On the rear I fitted some reflectors, these had bare metal foil beneath them and were clear parts sprayed in Tamiya LP Clear Red. Licence plate and rear mudguard also got fitted and the rear light went on as well... Front forks got soem treatment with brake and speedo cabling being fitted. Some detail paint on the mudguard. Brake discs were drilled out front and back. Few minor subassemlies, Clocks were painted, decaled and then a sheet of Micro Cristal Klear was put on to replicate clock glass. Light and infdicators done, again Tamiya LP Clear orange over clear kit parts. Next step was to get body work onto frame. Very simple and straight forward process. Exhausts fitted perfectly (as did all parts) Rear grab handle and seat (painted in Proscale Paints Nappa Black. A quick run aroiund the fairing with a sharpie pen to edge the fairing and that was it done. Following pictures are the completed article....I'm pleased with it, such a quick and uncomplicated build. Good for the mojo!! Thanks for looking. Now....Resin Ariel Atom followed by Model Factory Hiro Ferrari D50 all in 1/12 scale.

Hello all, Firstly, thanks for all the kind and supportive words. I'm not the best modeller in the world but I do strive to do the best I can within reason. Everything is measured but ultimately, I build these for me, and I must admit I am very, very pleased with how this has turned out. It has had some challenges but was generally a straight forward build, only let down by my drilling, decalling and painting ability...topped off with my own difficult personality trait of impatience...It has taught me some lessons ready for the next one...Still, lets finish the build...This part will be very picture heavy!!!! Next step was to paint and mount the radiator, finish off its connecting hoses and add some pipe clamps. This was all provided in the kit. Heat shrink tubing and PE sorted the connections out. I added a temperature line from the bottom left hose, just for extra detail. A retaining strap was added to the front of the oil tank, bit like a bungee I think?? Working through the last small parts, I then added some blanking parts to top of front uprights/wheel hubs and some centre axles to front wheels which are held on by small magnets...these just hide some screws. Radiators added...these were given a light bit of ageing with small scratches and chips... Next small part, was to finish the steering wheel. This is pretty basic, just some Semi gloss black wih some PE screw heads added appropriately. followed by a Cavallino Rampante. The nose cone caused me some issues and required rubbing down and further blast of 2K. This was then drilled and rivets added before being secured by a screw to the front of the car, therefore hiding all my pipework, radiators and general hours of detail work!!! I wanted to provide a crash helmet, in Bandini's colours so that was painted next, using Pure White for a base coat, the kit decal and various LP blacks before a blast of 2K (Proscale System) Exhaust holding springs and the crash helmet were the final parts... I have taken some finished pictures (all with my phone) as below for your perusal. I shall post an album of pictures in the Finished section!! Apologies for the multitude of pictures, but I think it looks great from every angle!! I also know I am biased!!! In summary, A great kit, straight forward build with a beautifully complex and imposing engine. A V12 certainly creates work in the engine. I'm not sure how many modelling hours I got out of this kit, but even if I had paid full retail price, I would say it was worth every penny. I would do my riveting differently on the next one, paint and then insert rivets, but adding the extra rivets makes it look so much better than basic stock build, out of the box. The close up shots really show them to good effect. I get frustrated at having to add brake lines and other such details to a MFH kit given the initial cost, but I can bear it when the end result is what I feel I have achieved. Ther instructions also make you think and plan several steps in advance and certainly do not spoon feed you with information or guidance. Looking through my stash, I think later MFH kits have improved this a bit!!You need to seek out where lines and tubes got to, and this can be a tedious job at times, sometimes needing just a guesstimate. So there it is, my build of the Model Factory Hiro Ferrari 312 F1-67 in !/12 sclae (full detail) - K479 - Ver A. Monaco GP 1967. Sadly it was Bandini's final race in this Ferrari. I fyou want a reference book recommendation, I suggest the Joe Honda Monaco GP 1967 book. Mine arrived two days prior to finishing this build but it contains some beautiful pictures. Simply stunning. Thanks, and on to the decision of what to do next???

Stage 15. This entailed assembling the radiator and installing the associated hoses, of which there appears to be lots!! The radiator comprises of the outer frame and two pieces of PE mesh, which when assembled looked very empty. I had seen someone else had built into theirs some cooling pipes so I figured I would steal that idea. Using electrical solder I twisted some solder wire up and CA'd it into place. This was nothing scientific, just to fill the void. It was brush painted in aluminium before the mesh parts were glued into place. I then figured a quick win would be to fit the gear lever. Photo references have this in polished aluminium so I painted the knob with Molotov Chrome pen and gave the H gate a black wash. Water tank was polished up aswell as the joining pipes followed by being placed into position. It was here I noticed a small error, as I had fitted the steering rack upside down. An easy mistake, any blind idiot could have done it!!! This was an easy fix and it popped off very cleanly and was inverted and refitted with no issues. Once that was done the tank fitted with no issues. Next parts tackled was the brake cooling ducts, these were given a coat of usual Proscale Etch Primer followed by some Tamiya LP Flat white (for the front) and some Proscale Light Silver Metallic (for rear) Once in base colour, they were treated with some dirt and weathering, light rust effects and a wash to accentuate some details. Once dry, they were bolted onto the car!! The radiator is being worked on at the moment and will be fitted next. That has some rubber connecting hoses and clips to go on. Then it's on to the upper bodywork and fitting of the aero screen...I'm not looking forward to that...front nose debris grill has been cleaned and painted, awaiting it's turn to be fitted....thanks for looking, onwards we go...

A productive day at the bench, all the prep work coming together at a common point...Stage 12. Completed today. So wheel hubs, brake discs and calipers were assembled, shock towers placed together and fitted with the pedals, which were given a dry brush to highlight the heel and toe wear the real version may have carried. none of which will be seen!!! I even forgot to take a pic of it!!! This section require several hands to hold parts in place whilst the front bulkhead was fitted into it's final place. Very frustrating but I got it done eventually. Hydraulic lines added with copper 0.6mm wire. Bent according to where I wanted it to go. This is done purely for effect and I have no idea of where they need to go to or from!! Front brake lines were added later. I needed to get the ride height correct as I had difficulty with the front shocks so the support posts were added underneath (temporarily with PVA glue) and wheels added so I could adjust front ride height prior to fitting the anti roll bar. Some more close up pics of the front end, here highlighting the steering rack, front brake lines and air inlets. All of the additional parts were given a black wash as I went along, just to add a bit of use to them. This included some grime on the fuel tank lid. This is where the build is up to at this time. Left to complete is the construction of the front water tank and radiator, wheel brake cooling ducts and upper fairings. Small details remain such as the steering wheel, exhaust springs and gear lever. As she sits, this represents the completion of Stage 13. I will jump Stage 14 and head straight to 15, which is the front water tank, hoses and radiator. Off I pop to do some soldering...Thanks for looking.

Hello folks, back on Stage 11... Fitting the inner monocoque into my nice and shiny outer body, full of sticky outy rivetty tailly bobs on the inside...this is not going to be pleasant, you will not enjoy this...avert your eyes if you are of a delicate disposition... So I was full of anxiety before doing this, I knew I should have done my riveting differently and that is a lesson learnt for future builds. But persevere I did and slid the tub into the body, some gentle easing over odd internal rivets and in it went. Not too much bother, no damage and the front pins located fairly nicely. There are no positive locations or means to hold these long and heavy internals in place and it really could do with some screws to hold it in my opinion. As everything has to be pre painted, there is no means of soldering or even "spot soldering" anywhere. So super glue it is!!! I'm less than happy but with some maniplution of the shell you can wick CA down the length underneath and around the engine compartment and tail to hold it in. So that's what I did!! In order to try to keep it secure, I clamped the rear edges together as hard as I dare. This car now weighs a tonne. It has some real weight to it and it makes me nervous every time I pick it up to manipulate it. But I do think it looks cool...To finish off Stage 11, requires the fitting of some long trailing arms? to the rear wheel mounts. These consist of some white metal rose joints and stainless steel tubing which came cut to the exact lengths, I was very impressed. These fitted perfectly and were given a quick black wash to bring out the detail in the fittings. Stage 11 done!!! Stage 12 involves all the front pedal box, wheel hubs and suspension,shock towers...here the front bulkhead is dry fitted, checking fit and clearances. Detail painting being done on little bits and assembly will recommence tomorrow.. Until then, thanks for looking.

Well, where was I? Oh, trying to finish Stage 10 off.... So first off was the anxiety provoking joining of the cockpit tub and engine. These join together on four sturdy pins but I still didn't trust them so elected to drill an aditional hole and used two M2 bolts and nuts to keep these parts securely together... I then added the top of the footwell and dash, the wiring was sorted out and some cable management added prior to this being glued in place. The red heat shield? behind the seat was added and the remaining oil/water pipes at the front were placed into final positions. The seating was painted in Ferrari Leather Rosso, given a wash to put some staining onto it and the some detail pins added to finish it off. This sits snuggly into the tub but a bit too snuggly really. And that completes Stage 10. Fingers crossed this will slide nicely into the bodywork but I fear more fettiling will be required. Now the body has rivets in place they might prove a bit troublesome. I forgot to mention I did rivet the inner monocoque where it would be most noticeable but did not bother under the seat padding. I plan to rivet the front foot well/pedal box below the pedals as this area can be seen with the nose off.

Hi Malc, Yes I buy direct through Si and Paul. They have an internet presence now, its a new company and they will match any colour they can within reason and their range grows almost daily. Very quick postage and reasonalbe costs. I highly recommend them. Etch primer cleans very well, I just use Car Plan Paint Thinner for everything and it seems to work okay.

Work continued on the wheels, usual Proscale Etch Metal Primer, followed by a base coat of LP-1 Black (Tamiya) and finished in Zero Paints BBS Wheel Gold. Centre's were fitted with braces and wheel nuts, once all dry they were given a light wash of Vallejo Black wash to put a bit of pattina on them. Moving on to the monocoque, inner body. I looked at the previously painted colour and felt it was a bit too dark so hit it directly with some ProScale Bright Aluminium to lighten it up. I kept looking at the bodyshell and after a few days felt it was okay despite my initial thoughts. So I figured nothing lost it hitting it with some 2k. If it has to be redone, then so be it, I would strip back to metal anyway!!! Results are really pleasing. The individual panels have a hand beaten ripple to them, which is just what I was looking for. I hand painted the writing on the lower part in Metallic Black. It's not perfect but I think once given some weathering, it will be just right. Below are some dry fitted set up of the cockpit. I am slowly doing little bits and it is starting to come together. The dashboard needs a wash and the glazing added to the dials prior to final assembling, bit of wire management and it will be ready for joining to engine/gearbox. While fiddling away at these little parts, I have prepped the front wheel hubs and brake calipers. These have been fitted with copper brake lines and fittings ready for assembly. The front bulkhead has dimples fro rivets, so figured it would look better with rivets fitted, so I drilled a few more holes...Brake discs were assembled and given some grooves by spinning them in a drill using coarse sandpaper. Once washed, these items will look very nicely used. A layout, just for sh*ts and giggles... Current plan is to focus on front bulkhead which comprises of the pedal box and hydraulic reserviors and brake/clutch piping. These seem fairly straight forward. Then to complete cockpit so Section 10 can be completed. Back to loving it!!!!

Work continues on the bodywork. This is preperation for Stage 11. The outer bodywork has several rivets along it's length and these were drilled out using a suitable drill bit and trusty Dremel...about 500 - 600 I guess... The rivets were then placed and secured in place from the rear using CA glue. A very simple, but time consuming process but it really has added character to the model. Next steps are to get some Etch Primer onto the metal (I used the excellent Proscale Etch primer for first coat) moving onto a base colour of Number 5 Pink Base. I didn't use a filler primer as I wanted a slightly beaten and uneven finish to the panels rather than a smooth, perfect result. This is a hand built racing car and would have looked less than perfect in it's finish, even straight out the factory. Primer down, it was given several light coats of Zero Paints Ferrari 1960's Rosso Formula 1. Once paint was down, this was left for a day or two and decaling commenced. The kit does not have many markings to go on, but these have proven to be very challenging. They have refused to succumb to wrapping around the rivets despite copius amounts of decal setting solutions and heat. I am not sure of the age of the decals, they did not seem too bad but have appeared to be more brittle than they should be. Typically, I would have expected them to conform easily with setting solution but the final outcome has not been great. Cracked and split, with pieces of jagged decals sitting atop rivets, no give or flex in them. They are not pretty in close up...The nose went lovely as this is straight onto a nice flat resin section, with no rivet detail to contend with!!! These images are after some touching up with some Flat White paint. I am currently deliberating stripping it back and doing again. I have two options: 1/ I have purchased replacement decals from Indycals and these are on their way now, but will take a while to arrive, or 2/ Create some paint masks for the numbers and spray the '18' onto the body shell. This would probably be more accurate in honesty. Right now, I'm just angry!! Decisions, decisions.... Rather than push this, I will walk away and have turned my attention to getting the wheels assembled and looking at the front bulkhead details. This small subassembly can be built and attached at any time in the build, just need the bodyshell in paint and lacquered with Proscale 2K lacquer. Just going to cry into my beer, thanks for looking, be back real soon...

More progress to report upon, steady opportunities to get some more modelling done...Once exhausts were sorted and I was happy with them, it was time to move on to do the rear suspension set up. Exhausts were finished in Mr Surfacer 1000 white, with a black wash prior to basic weathering. Exhausts were given some gentle weathering using some rust and soot powders in an attempt to replicate some leaks etc. The surrounding heat shield/tray was given the same treatment. Rear suspension was very straight forward, turned metal shock towers with white metal drop links/arms and anti-roll bar fittings. Resin wheel hubs were etched and painted in silver before recieving a black wash for age!! The following sequence of pictures are the kit up to the finish of Stage 9. Three missing parts at this point are the two exhaust holding springs and a length of fuel pipe from by the rollover hoop. This represents the rear section completed, engine, gearbox and rear suspension complete... Attention now turns to Section 10 which is the inner monocoque and cockpit/dashboard. Seat padding is done in Zero Paints Ferrari COrsa FX Red Leather, Some wiring added to rear of dash panel with some PE screw heads for the rear of the instruments. Decals and switch added to front. This will be touched up once thoroughly dry and then plastic instrument covers added. Looking at the bodywork, the decision was made to replace the rivets as they are quite a prominent part of the bodywork. This entailed the purchase of the rivet set and will require the drilling of a hole or two. I have tested the impact of this on the bottom chassis panel as pictured below. The difference is quite remarkable and I do question why they are not either included in the kit or casy onto the bodywork already. Some parts are not painted but just require a polish, so this was done.... So the next stages are to finish off the cockpit and body work. The bodywork needs to be completed before the front inner chassis/monocoque is joined with the engine block. I hope to work on front footwell and radiators whilst waiting for paint to dry/cure. Front suspension and hubs need doing as well as wheels. But, body work first...now, where did I put that pin vice...

Nice couple of days in the ISM International Scale Modeller) hangout and have got a bit more modelling done. So I have stepped back to Stage Two...the exhausts. The car is renowned for these and carries a nickname of "spaghetti" due to the fabulous V12 exhausts. Usual clean up routine, tumbler, sanders, etch primer and a coat of Mr Surfacer white 1000. The plan was to stick with that as top coat but things changed... These were assmbled on the engine and tacked in place with CA glue, all seemed fine. I added some weld lines and they were begininning to look sweet. Chuffed I was... However when I fitted them to the engine (temporarily) I had this eerie feeling something was off. Further investigation and the penny dropped. I had used the wrong rear sections and had to disassemble and rebuild them all again. Bugger!! I was up to the point they are at now, exhaust brackets and everything. Bugger!! The original exhaust build led to the tail pipes being alongside each other rather than the over the top as they should be. Unfortunately, I hadn't taken any photos of this error but be aware it is easy to fall into if you are not as attentive as you should be. The rebuild was nice and quick and they went together rather nicely. These photos show the Mark 2 exhausts and these are only laid into the ports so are not in finished positions, or even finally painted and weathered. The tails will need a small tweak once securely mounted at the front but I can't do that until they are secured in place. So with that small challenge/set back behind me I needed to look at the chassis and engine fitting, whilst waiting for new exhaust paint to dry...that will account for Stage 7 being completed, there is no more fabrication on the exhausts, just paint, washes and weathering before being glued into place. Chassis interior tub was soldered together earlier, as practice with my new Weller WE1010, using low melt solder and white metal flux. It went okay and is nice and solid. I would have soldered the exhausts but felt it would be easier to use glue due to aligning of parts and access to joints. The interior tub slides inside the external bodywork like a cassette, this will have the engine fitted to its rear. This was test fitted after drilling a few holes in the rear bulk head resulting in the WIP as below.... The engine has gone into its fittings on the bulkhead very snuggly, very pleased with the fitment. The eagle eyed among you will have noticed a small gap at the rear bulkhead/bodywork joint. This is because I have not drilled out two locating holes at the front of the body which allows locating pins on the interior chassis to fit into, leading to a couple of millimeter gap. So, that's where I am. Happy with exhausts and those are in paint and working on rear suspension parts, wheel hubs and suspension being readied for Section 8. Thanks for looking. 👍😁

Quick update...these metallic decals from E.Jan have just arrived and I have decided to rivet the body work, so a set of metal rivets has been ordered so should be here well before they are needed. In combination, these should add some nice extra detail to the bodywork.

Looking to get Stage 6 completed so a little more work required. Added an oil feeder tube into the rear oil tank? This detail noted on https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/77519-ferrari-312f1-chris-amon-monaco-1967-112-mfh/ This is another beautiful build of this kit. The tank was given a spare resin AN fitting, chromed up and clear tubing with a Tamiya Clear yellow paint, syringed through to give the impression of oil. I think this techniques is much better than the clear MFH tubing or the Brown claer MFH tube, which I used for the fuel lines. Just my preference, it may not be yours. PE Exhaust bracket fitted and some wire management done. Funny little round thing given a bit of PE detail and wire clips given a wash. Small rear anti roll bar error addressed and the eagle eyed among you will note it is now sitting in place. I had two options: Option One; either remove the gearbox and fit it as recommended by the instructions or Option Two; cut it and join a left and right part. Option one contained too much risk to the completed work for my liking so I went with Option Two with no issues arising. I just couldn't thread it past the bulkhead, brakes and gearbox. Mental note to self, check parts count before committing to glue!!! Stage Six now completed. The rear end now looks nice and busy, with some subtle age and weathering applied. I am now moving onto Stage Two and Seven combined. The exhausts or "spaghetti" My first foray has highlighted these may be a little time sapping and mentally challenge. But I hope to get them sorted without too much swearing or annoyance. I am really pleased with how she is looking so far. Thanks for looking and the encouraging feedback. 👍😊

Came out nice in the end, post wash but it was very bright beforehand Keith!!

I may have overlooked putting the rear anti roll bar on...but that will be easily attached at next session...apart from that, work continued on Section Five with the fitting of copper brake lines to the calipers and associated unions. The rear cage is soldered and painted up and attached temporarily... Meanwhile, at the front end the roll over hoop and attached oil catchment tank thingys and some form of filter?...tanks added and plumbed in, followed by a wash and some fuel/fluid staining... Attention then turned to trying to get some of the rear ancillary parts finished off, which attache to the safety cage which surrounds the gearbox...Battery was soldered together, then etch primered and undercoated before paint. Coils given basic paint job...battery test fitted into position to get a rough idea on wiring plan. While waiting on bits there, I fitted some tanks which appear to be brake line related but I'm unsure of their purpose. I currently have they plumb with soft pipes at the top and copper wire joining them under the gearbox. This image shows a coil pre and post wash, comlete with power leads and wiring attached. Some detail wiring added to alternator? and flying leads added to battery terminals. Wiring spaghetti is starting to do my head in so might have a brief break form it for a day or two...but the rear end is starting to look a bit busy. The rear cage took some manipulating to get it to fit and the rear oil tank clear the gearbox but it went nicely in the end. The bracket which hold the battery is all ready to fit and that will be the next steps, after fitting an anti roll bar. 😁 Thanks for looking...soon be doing exhausts...