mackem01 Posted December 28, 2021 Share Posted December 28, 2021 I've always been a user of Milliput but am finding it difficult for use in finer joins as my last builds will attest to. I'm also getting cheesed with mixing it. So can I ask if plastic putties offer any advantages over the old Milli...........your views? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bootneck Posted December 28, 2021 Share Posted December 28, 2021 The plastic putties that I have used tend to dissolve again after hardening if they get wet, as in the case when using wet 'n dry for sanding and finishing. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted December 28, 2021 Share Posted December 28, 2021 Well, apples vs. oranges. You don't have to choose between the two, they have different properties, the preference to use one or the other depends on a case Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray_W Posted December 28, 2021 Share Posted December 28, 2021 My favourite fillers remain CA, CA/Talc and Milliput fine. With Milliput, I will mix a couple of very small beads together for what I need. Can't fault it. I keep it in the freezer and remove it in anticipation of a filling job to let it get to room temperature. I do not add water for these types of jobs. Minimal shrinkage, if any, easy to clean up, and no plastic attack. Describe a little more about your problem. It may be a case where it is not the ideal filler. I really work on builds to minimise the use of any fillers. Ray 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mackem01 Posted December 28, 2021 Author Share Posted December 28, 2021 For whatever reason I sometimes end up with fine join lines. They seem to be too fine for Milli to get in the seam and I wondered if PP would be better for this. @Ray_W freezing Milli - do you mix it and freeze what you don't don't use? If so that's handy to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Harmsworth Posted December 28, 2021 Share Posted December 28, 2021 Mr Surfacer 1200 fed into the seam with the tip of a cocktail stick. Can be cleaned up when dry with isopropanol alcohol or Mr Colour thinner on a cotton bud - that avoids sanding and doesn't destroy fine detail. Mark 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted December 28, 2021 Share Posted December 28, 2021 4 minutes ago, Mark Harmsworth said: Mr Surfacer 1200 fed into the seam with the tip of a cocktail stick. Can be cleaned up when dry with isopropanol alcohol or Mr Colour thinner on a cotton bud - that avoids sanding and doesn't destroy fine detail. Well, 1200 does not work well for this technique, too fine. Try 500 instead, or (event better) Mr. Dissolved Putty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray_W Posted December 28, 2021 Share Posted December 28, 2021 1 hour ago, mackem01 said: For whatever reason I sometimes end up with fine join lines. They seem to be too fine for Milli to get in the seam and I wondered if PP would be better for this. @Ray_W freezing Milli - do you mix it and freeze what you don't don't use? If so that's handy to know. If the gap is very fine I wick in thin CA. With thin gaps where I want to use Milliput I work it in with a toothpick. I keep the unmixed Milliput in the freezer to extend its life. Alternative is to use Mr Surfacer 500 but for me a little more messy and needs a couple of applications. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Harmsworth Posted December 28, 2021 Share Posted December 28, 2021 1 hour ago, Pin said: Well, 1200 does not work well for this technique, too fine. Try 500 instead, or (event better) Mr. Dissolved Putty. Hmm. That depends on how fine the seam is. The OP stated 'fine join lines'. I am not in the habit of suggesting a technique that doesn't work for me. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted December 28, 2021 Share Posted December 28, 2021 2 hours ago, bootneck said: The plastic putties that I have used tend to dissolve again after hardening if they get wet, as in the case when using wet 'n dry for sanding and finishing. I've found the same but I've got a work-around. I put some Vallejo putty on a wee aluminium bun tray, then I mix in some 'Astonish' (acrylic varnish) which thins the Vallejo a bit but makes it water-proof when dry. I apply it, usually, with the squashed end of the ubiquitous cocktail stick. I over fill the gap and wipe off the excess before its dry. Repeat as necessary 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckw Posted December 29, 2021 Share Posted December 29, 2021 I would use gloop (mix of Tamiya thin and bits of sprue) for this. Cheers Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted December 29, 2021 Share Posted December 29, 2021 21 hours ago, Mark Harmsworth said: Hmm. That depends on how fine the seam is. The OP stated 'fine join lines'. I am not in the habit of suggesting a technique that doesn't work for me. Well, 1200 is supposed to be good enough for glossy finish, I doubt that any seam could be that thin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Harmsworth Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 20 hours ago, Pin said: Well, 1200 is supposed to be good enough for glossy finish, I doubt that any seam could be that thin Gosh. That's a firm statement- love the italics by the way. For your further delight this chap suggests the same as me: https://www.modeldisplayproducts.co.uk/mr-surfacer-1200 And I'll say again - I have used 1200 this way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 7 minutes ago, Mark Harmsworth said: And I'll say again - I have used 1200 this way. What I am saying is that in my experience 500 works better than 1200 and dissolved putty works better than 500. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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