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Everything posted by Ray_W

  1. Hi Dennis, The safe option, as also used by @Andwil, is aluminium. Alternatives I have seen suggested were khaki and, for the P.24b, an interior blue similar to USN Intermediate Blue. I went for the latter to add a little more interest. Ray
  2. Hi Adrian, Very attractive subject. Well done. Looks delightful in the gallery. Ray
  3. Ray_W

    B-52 H

    Great build. Love it. Ray
  4. Hi Craig, Just catching up with a few builds. Great subject! And more winter camo. Well for us in the Northern Hemisphere, winter is coming. Ray
  5. Hi Dennis, Nearing the end of my PZL P.24b build so looking forward to watching your P.7a and P.11c come together. As you have probably noted, I really liked the Hataka Polish colours. Ray
  6. What a satisfying stage to reach without any disasters . I'm always nervous when removing masks and doubly so with a new paint line. The Hataka performed faultlessly. Pleasingly, there was no bleed, no paint lift, those fine tips were achieved, and best of all, no pesky decal stripes to apply. The port side tip end finished a little wonky (difficult to see) but good enough to leave alone. This will also be less noticeable when the roundels and number decals are applied. I have no complaints on the starboard side. Underside in the Hataka Polish Blue-Grey. The Hataka paints were very good thinned with Mr Color Leveling Thinner. Dried very quickly, smooth and semi-gloss. You could decal immediately. However, I will let it rest for some hours and then put a thin GX-100 gloss coat over the top. I am also very pleased with the Polish Khaki colour achieved by darkening the Light Khaki slightly with the Dark Khaki in the Hataka set. Ray Edit: Apologies I meant to include this photo of the stripes and rudder masked before the underside was painted.
  7. In the following I am talking about vinyl acrylics rather than the alcohol acrylics like Mr Hobby Color or Tamiya. When I am using acrylics for airbrush work my preferred is Lifecolor using their thinners. I have come to like Lifecolor a lot. I have less tip dry issues with them than others. In my experience: 1. are acrylics as durable as enamels once hardened? No, they are not. Lifecolor does dry robust but not to the level of enamels. 2. when using how do you keep the flow? My little experience of acrylics has meant a rapid clogging of the airbrush Thinning ratio is key. You will thin more and build up color slow. Do not expect coverage as you have enjoyed with enamels and yet I find with Lifecolor you quickly get to good coverage and lovely thin coats. Expect minimum three. I do not put the paint job aside between coats. Just keep going. Expect the first coat to have little colour and do not be tempted to flood coat. Also, even though tip dry is not a big issue I am still in the habit of regularly cleaning the tip during a spray job with a Q-Tip. A must on a hot day. I also use a black lacquer undercoat (Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500) which does not help you for health reasons. Others will recommend a suitable undercoat. I prefer acrylics over an undercoat. 3. is the range of colours as good as enamels? I am primarily a post war jets builder. any suggestions? Lifecolor has a good range - post war I am not sure. 4. how easy is clean-up post painting! Simple so long as you never let it dry in the airbrush. Never spray to a dry cup (good practice with all paints). Always keep a wet cup. I find Lifecolor airbrush cleaner excellent. 5. How are acrylics thinned? Water? I can thin with water but prefer the manufacturer's thinner. I have a mix with a little flow enhancer that works well for me. 6. I think enamel washes can be used over acrylics? Yes, except I do prefer to use a clear coat before doing so. Previously Future now prefer Alclad Aqua Gloss Clear. I use very targeted washes with my style so robust mechanical removal of washes is not normally needed. Expect a good deal of experimentation but persevere. It is a new experience as you build up light coats. Thinning and airbrush settings will be different. Ray
  8. Yes, quite a difficult subject. One of those things where you read as much as you can access and then put a stake in the ground and say, "this is what I'll do". I think that Hataka, being a Polish company, is a good starting point.
  9. Hi Greg, Nice choice of kit and an interesting subject. One to enjoy. You could build it straight from the box and be very happy. It does shine with a few small enhancements. Ray
  10. Thanks Cliff. I experimented with the Polish Khaki for the upper surfaces in readiness to spray the wheel spats. I have the Hataka Orange Line series paint for Polish aircraft. I decided to darken the C011 Light Polish Khaki a fraction with the C010 Dark Polish Khaki as this aircraft is to be portrayed early in its life, Ratio was approximately 5 parts C011 : 1 part C010. This brought out a little more of the tinge of green closer to FS34088 while preserving the Polish Khaki basis. I thinned the Hataka with Mr Color Leveling Thinner. Seems to not present a problem. Laid down nicely and dried quickly. Wheel spats are masked. I gave the spats a light coat of gloss clear GX-100 to seal the mask edges then Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black to reduce the red, being careful not to build it up on the mask edge. Now ready for the Khaki. I will let that dry a little longer before using the Hataka. PostScript: Nice stage to reach, masks off and the tricky pattern on the wheels spats is done. I'll let it dry properly and then mask the circular lower strut mount and finish it in aluminium and all should be good. Ray
  11. Here's hoping. This one is super thin.
  12. Thanks for the kind remarks. It is coming together nicely. Finished the black undercoat and then masked and sprayed the Bulgarian tri-colour rudder. Mirage do provide some decals. I think painting is easier. You can see I have applied the red for the fuselage stripe. Quite a bit wider than required. Nothing more frustrating than missing a bit that will go under the mask. Time to cut some masks and give it a good 24 hours before application. No need to rush. Ray
  13. We're now ready to go to some paint. I extended the front spigot to ensure I have room for adjustment on the cowling/engine fitment while still maintaining a robust joint The top post I glued into the front plate is to provide some adjustment for tilt. When it's time, I will glue the engine assembly in place with 5 minute epoxy or gel CA to provide a little time for adjustment. I replaced the kit MG's with brass and polystyrene. Replaced the rear skid cylinder rod and rudder trim tab with brass. One pleasing aspect of the build is that the struts fit very nicely in their own right. This means they do not need to be in place for the painting, simplifying the masking and providing great access in doing the fuselage stripe. I had read on someone's build of this kit that the struts needed to be extended. Not in my case. Slightly profiled on the end to fit into the fuselage sockets and narrow the wing fairings fractionally to fit between the wing ribbing. Here is everything just sitting in place. Time to mask the canopy and then some undercoat. No doubt a few minor imperfections to fix and then into the main colours and have some fun with those red stripes down the side of the fuselage. Ray
  14. Goodness me, is that a 453 Squadron subject third from the bottom? Looks like I'll be spending more money. Ray
  15. Very cool. Looks like Tamiya will grab my money again.
  16. It does not answer the OP but the attached images does show how a sky band stood out over Italy. You can easily understand the need to change colour to avoid confusion: https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/205210937 if you scroll down on the above link you will see another three images. Ray
  17. Hi Greg, Yes it is worth re-doing the cowl as the other finishes you achieved look excellent. What materials/technique do you propose to use? Ray
  18. Yes I had seen the same. In my case the Eduard instructions worked very well, let's come back in 10 years and and see. One thing I did not say is that I applied them to an undercoated surface. In my case, Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 airbrushed as thinned with Mr Color Leveling Thinner. Ray
  19. Good surface preparation (easy because it was a cowling) and then Mr Color gloss lacquer thinned with Mr Color Levelling Thinner. As @dnl42 has said, I too prefer Gunze lacquers. It takes much of the guess work and variability out of airbrush painting. One thing to watch for with high gloss coats and the recent kits is that the process used for cutting the moulding dies leaves the slightest stipple in the injected plastic. You can see it in the red engine fairing and the spat side walls, both of which were not sanded. Not a big deal for me with this kit as it does need to be a little less shiny. In fact too shiny! I will have to tone them down a touch. Great advice. I was thinking of using slightly diluted PVA on this job. I will also airbrush a coat of Gunze GX-100 over the top to provide some more support. Ray
  20. The exhaust manifold just about consumed the weekend. I spent a lot of time trying to make the supplied white metal parts work and in the end I gave up. I should of followed my proposal as I mentioned in an earlier post and saved some time. I cut all the exhaust pipes off and removed any remaining stubs and repositioned the pipes to coincide with the cylinder head exhaust ports and with the exhaust outlets in the correct position at the lower strut. Lots of trial and error to ensure it fits. A day gone but much better result. And, painted up even better. You will see that I squeezed the round outlets to the more correct oval shape. What a pleasure to have it all glued in place. Yes you're right, all the interior detail will disappear, yet it is kinda cute. Big news was finishing the "power egg", that is, without the PE latches. I will fit those towards the end of the build. I am sure to knock them off and then you have the problem of that little bit of residual glue that needs to be cleaned up on that beautiful red surface. Now it is time for another mini-project - the canopy. I decided to change tack, I have so many spare Bf-109 canopies from all my Eduard 109's that one became a donor for the side panels. You can see below that both donor panels are cut out and one is already sized with a curve sanded into it to match the spline. Here are both the rear side glazing panels test fitted. Ignore my Mr Surfacer 500 fun and games, just me playing with some minor imperfections. This should work nicely. An evening's work fitting, polishing, adding some front framing and we will see how it looks. Ray
  21. The more I study this subject the more I am looking forward to modelling it. I was going to order the Friendship Models replacement turret and driver's vision plate. However, it is just too expensive by the time I get it. So I will scratch build a replacement. I also plan to add the interior. One option is to cross-kit with Roden. However, I will enjoy the challenge of getting the Meng kit right. I know I am a sucker for punishment. This project was in my 2021 modelling pipeline but then I see there is a possibility of an Armoured Car GB in 2022 (currently in Bunfight!) so I will hold off and see the outcome. Plenty of other projects to proceed with and plenty more research on the 1914 Pattern RR Armour Car to do. Ray
  22. I have started using Eduard SPACE decals applied in accordance with their instructions: 1.Soak the decal in the warm water for couple of seconds and after its separation from the backing paper position it on the model. 2.To increase decal's adherence use the white glue, Mr. Mark Setter or apply to the glossy surface. 3.Leaving decal in the water for too long can cause its swelling. I used Mr Mark Setter NEO which has the ingredients Water, Ester Compound, Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA), Polyvinyl Alcohol, Vinyl Acetate. They have adhered extremely well. Although, by their instructions, I could of just used PVA or, I expect, a diluted PVA mix. Ray
  23. You can see here what they were trying to replicate. Ray
  24. Light Grey is "M" Dark Grey is "K" The difference is the most subtle flat or representation of a split pin. The other side is a simple dome. Here are both ends of a dark grey "K" link. See the one on the right has the end like the instructions. Frankly it is so subtle it makes little difference and often obscured by some flash. Ray
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