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Everything posted by Ray_W

  1. Yes both are provided. The guys on a YouTube channel do a nice discussion on the release here from 53:10 and plenty of discussion on the windscreen options and markings provided. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jfnON2CTmWg Ray
  2. Ray_W

    Metal Paints Tips

    My preferred metal finishes are the three you mentioned: Mr Metal Color is fragile and not suitable for masking. Excellent for exhausts such as here on this Mk.VIII Mr Super Metallics are very robust and take a mask well. I do not have a picture with me but have used it for larger spray jobs without trouble. Negligible loss of finish when overcoated with Gunze clear lacquers. I still prefer the Super Metallics for aluminium prop blades for some reason. The AK Xtreme Metals are now my go to for natural metal finishes. Here are some images I have of my Aussie 8 Spitfire. AK Xtreme Metal masked and sprayed. Gloss Coat Gunze clear lacquer GX100 with some enamel wash. Colours used are Polished Aluminium, Aluminium and Flat Aluminium. Excuse the dust on the model. Should of blown it off before the photo. This model looks lovely in the flesh. I had a little mask lifting when using their Polished Aluminium over their supplied Xtreme Metal black gloss base coat. Possibly it was insufficient curing time. I am not sure but soon shelved that product as I found a more reliable solution. I now use exclusively Gunze Gloss Black lacquer (GX002 Ueno Black) as the base coat and since its application I have had no issue. I also apply Gunze lacquer clear coats GX100 or 112 thinned with Mr Color Levelling Thinner over the AK Xtreme when required with no substantial reduction in finish. AK recommend their Gauzy Intermediate if you want a less aggressive solvent coat. I think you can get away without the clear coat if not required unless using it blend coat for decals. I have found the Xtreme quite robust. I went into some detail with my learnings from the above build here: I have since not done a full Xtreme Metal NMF job although I have a couple planned this year in a MiG-21 and RAAF Mk. Vc and really looking forward to it. An enjoyable experience. In the mean time I continue to use Xtreme for most metal finishes such as here on my Tamiya F-4B. All the metal parts are finished with Xtreme Metal over a Gunze GX002 Ueno black base. No issues with masking. Make sure you add some stirring balls to the bottle and shake vigorously and regularly. Also note I still apply normal NMF principles, that being plenty of drying time between coats and de-tack the masking tape, remove carefully without pulling directly up from the painted surface. Probably a little more cautious than I need to be, but, you never know. Do some experiments to ensure it works with your techniques. Ray
  3. I also have this: I see no reason not to trust this artist's/draughtman's cut-away. Ray
  4. Per Aspera Ad Astra not Per Ardua Ad Astra - South African Air Force? Ray
  5. Great find. I found some in stock at Hobby Mania of all places back in Australia and placed an order. Now I will have to make another Hydromatic Mk Vc. This time Eduard.
  6. And I think no aftermarket has correctly portrayed it, yet. If this is the case then my plan will be to modify the Eduard parts if I build another Hydromatic prop aircraft. Nothing in the box seems quite right. At least there are plenty of props and spinners to work on. If you're interested I did some discussion on the DH Hydromatic, and modified the Airfix prop, when I did my Airifx Vb to Vc conversion here: Ray
  7. Hi Rich, Thanks for your tips. I like dry fitting because I loath any filling. Re. you question, does this help? I'd say yes. https://www.goodfon.com/download/boeing-ea-18g-growler-samolet-reb-vvs-avstralii-hesja-air-ar/1920x1080/ Ray
  8. Think the aircraft theatre and not the pilot - south of Europe. I note sellers are typically advertising with the same words for pre-order that being "From the kit you can build Spitfires fighting over North Africa, the Mediterranean and the Pacific". Sounds like a good mix with some interesting marking options. Probably a good one for the modeller who would like to pick up some varied marking options for a Vb and Vc and build from the same box, and the Gleed markings are cool. Eduard has moved to controlling most things in-house. I suppose they know their cost and the profitability of swapping out their own decal sheet, changing a couple of marking pages in the instruction booking and creating and printing some box-art. Where the packaging is done I do not know. In-house? Another element they could easily control. A further point is I am sure they understand how many will be bought and end up in the stash. Bottom line - Keep up your enthusiasm Eduard. Still huge opportunity for Aussie V's and probably been discussed at Eduard. Maybe planned. Mind you I have the nice DK decals sheet that I have used and unlikely to be tempted unless of course anther Peter Malone book was included or a very interesting subject included. Then the cash would instantly jump from my pocket. As an aside, and excuse my ignorance, did the Kiwi's fly the Mk V in the Pacific? I know they did the P-40 and F4U. 485 Squadron would provide some ETO options. I do not want to send this off topic. Just a quick reply if you know. Ray
  9. Some other pointers. I try to avoid butt joins. So always looking for solutions like fine grooves on the back of a post and wrap around rigging and thread through ferrule, or drill very fine holes (0.3 mm or 0.2 mm when all my drills are not broken). I stretch some styrene tube stock I have to make microbore tube to cut for ferrules loop and feed the other end back through. The ferrule to represent the turnbuckle, sleeve or tensioning spring. I model in 1/48. I put a small amount of CA on plastic coated carboard (cut up packaging like a chocolate biscuit carton) and then use a fine wire (0.25 mm) as an applicator to pick up a small amount and apply. You can put a loop on the wire end but I find for my work that after the first application the wire picks up the CA nicely. If it get too large I cut it off and start with a fresh end. Note that it also depends on your rigging material. I am currently using Infini, which works brilliantly with this method. Fishing line does not set as quickly and stretched sprue is OK. For fishing line and stretched sprue I tighten up with the old heated scalpel blade trick so the joints are not high-tension when the glue is applied. You pull the Infini tight by hand. Here is an example: Ferrules "tensioners" - stretched styrene tube Insulators - CA Gel and Talc Note that top of mast drilled and fine wire inserted then trimmed to length rear post drilled. I would use the same principles on a Camel build although it would need a bit of pre-planning and drilling. If it is all made and finished and rigging is last it gets a little more complicated, probably a stretched sprue or microwire application and then some form of rapid hold and kicker may be needed. Ray
  10. Hi Laurie, I use Loctite Super Attack original and gel. First one being very thin and wicks in nicely. Excellent for small ferrules and lycra rigging. Holds immediately. No staining. Good if you predrill rigging holes and glue in loops to feed the lycra around and back through the ferrule. Rarely use kicker. I still have a bottle of ZAP, that unless it has a shelf life, will last me at least 4 lifetimes. Ray
  11. Ray_W

    1:48 Spitfire Mk I

    I have built both the recent Tamiya and the Eduard (a couple of times). The Tamiya was a faultless and easy build other than that weird glue on windscreen armour (I used Future). My preference is the Eduard. It does not have that sublime undercarriage fixing method used by Tamiya (some have challenged whether Tamiya got the angle right) and you need to take a little more care and yet it builds into a robust solution. Tamiya is Tamiya so if you want an easy build it is a good option. Tamiya - no complaints - not finished in this image but only one I have with me. Sorry for the smoke trails - let's say artistic licence. I have come to prefer the Eduard as I have been building their range Mk. I, V, IX, VIII and have my techniques reasonably well sorted and hence my preference. Eduard - no complaints - a mix of decals. A few additional points: Eduard provide an appropriate mix of recessed and raised rivets where needed which adds another dimension. Love them or hate them - personal preference. They also avoid raised rivets where seams fall. Whether the prototype has recessed/flush rivets in these locations I do not know. The benefit is that you do not sand them off. I have come to prefer the raised rivet solution they provide. Kit decals in both cases may be problematic. Tamiya are their usual thicker fare although I have my technique sorted for them now so they do not worry me as much. Eduard has that weird covering over the decals that can be removed if need be and you're brave enough. Alternative is to leave them in place to blend and paint as normal. Small point is that Eduard only provide the early hand-pump undercarriage lever in their Mk. I cockpit rendition. As the Mk. I examples I have built so far have been post June 1940 Battle of Britain subjects I decided to fabricate the hydraulic pump solution. Not difficult. I tend to do a fair amount of work in the cockpit anyway. You can have a lot of fun with both cockpits - Eduard here. Choose either make. Ray
  12. I am certainly no expert on the type and only noticed the difference when I went to order the nozzles. Then I checked pictures of my type and went ah ha! I found a little information on it on ARC http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/309288-fa-18ef-exhaust-nozzle-improvement/ and here http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/311942-f-18e-exhaust-nozzles-two-types/ Ray
  13. Reskit sells two versions a Type 1 nozzle without the kink and a Type 2 with the kink. The RAAF Growlers have the Type 2. Ray
  14. Excellent work Rich, as always, and very useful explanation and solution of the trouble areas. That cockpit does look good. Ray
  15. Seems so Pat and no wonder now with ICM having done such a nice job with their rendition. Enjoying the build immensely. Can't wait to unmask the canopy section. Bob, recommended! On with the WIP, I feel I will hit an impasse shortly. I ordered the Caracal OV-10A decal sheet from Hannants and since COVID their deliveries to Eastern Europe have been problematic. Well, for me anyway. I am still waiting for the shipment to arrive. I really like Caracal Decals - good research, wonderful to apply and printed by Cartograf - so, I need to wait. Hopefully they will arrive this week so I can push on and finish the markings. The kit decals do apply very nicely. I need to use some of these anyway for items such as ordnance and wing walk markings. OOB they're quite good. My technique was tepid water with the decal applied over Gunze Mr Mark Setter Neo. They settled down very nicely without any need for decal solvents. The small decals I applied over Microscale Micro Set. I have experienced some silvering with stencilling using Mark Setter Neo so tend to switch decal solutions for the little stuff. I really like the Mark Setter NEO for larger decals where you need some working time like the long walkway. Micro Set and the kit decals were instant stick. I recently used the Mark Setter NEO for all the Tamiya decals and 3 evenings of stencilling on my recent F-4B build and found the combination brilliant. So my nervousness in using it for small decals may of been operator error at the time. The kit props are lovely. Note how nicely the ICM decals have applied. No top coat or weathering yet. I sprayed a different colour to get the variation you see on the prototype prop where the black stencilling is applied. Seems there should be a lot more wording on a Vietnam era Bronco prop than the kit provides. I will not tell anyone if you don't. I have continued to work on the kit with some of the time consuming components, that being the little things. For example, I spent quite some time thinning the internal vanes and surrounds for the jet exhausts. If you have the kit you will see what I have done. One thing to watch is that I removed the weld seams you produce when gluing the halves together. That's a shame. I now need to replace them with stretched sprue. Other painting jobs such as the LAU-68's have just started. A bit to do. A tip for building the kit. If I was to build another, I would spend a lot of time carefully assembling and ensuring the weapon sponsons fit exceptionally well to the fuselage. Think Tamiya. Then leave them off and paint the kit and attach them after the bulk of the painting was complete. I was not worried as all that area is one colour in my build and yet it would of simplified the painting somewhat. If you are doing a wrap-around "lizard" type scheme I think it would be a must. Ray
  16. I use a black undercoat for just about everything. I then build the colour coats on top. The term given to the process is black basing. Put down a marble and blend coat. I really like the method for not only tonal variation but also textural variation. Very subtle effects that add life in a naked eye view of your models. Difficult to see in photos. My preferred base coat is Gunze Black Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500. Like Mark @Mark Harmsworth I will use white for yellow, orange, sometimes red. The latter dependent on what I want to achieve. I also use a gloss black under metallics. My favourite black gloss being Gunze GX002 Ueno Black. The Gunze's are thinned with Mr Color Leveling Thinner. The problem with black undercoats is the difficulty is spotting defects. So you will often find in my builds I am hitting the areas that usually give trouble with grey or white before a black undercoat. I have tried at various times no undercoat, grey and white undercoats and have come to like the black a great deal. I am not a fan of panel line pre-shading unless the subject definitely portrays it. You can build this on a black base anyway. You can also experiment with other colours in your base coat. As always, it is another technique in your modelling kit bag. It is certainly worth experimenting. Ray
  17. I am sure this is the case. They have some interesting re-prints and new F/A-18 sheets promised for 2022 so worth checking the site regularly. I was going to hold off until they re-printed the RAAF Centenary markings. However, as I will be only home for a few weeks I thought better to lock in a scheme and ordered the Ronin decals that were in stock. I have decided on the 2018 6 Sqn Scheme. We will see. I am cheating a little having Rich's build @trickyrich running ahead of me. I note his comments on flaps. Ray
  18. Sprayed the wheels wells with AK Real Colors RC222 FS17875 Insignia White and then masked. Finished the top colours using a coarse mottle to give some variation in the final finish. The white is again the AK and the grey is MRP-242 FS36473 Sky Grey. AK is thinned with their recommended Real Colors High Compatibility Thinner. Excellent combination. Wonderful self-levelling. The MRP is shot straight from their bottle. I again noted a little tip dry. I resolved that by stopping, giving my airbrush a fastidious clean, and then, when doing the mottle, give the airbrush a higher volume paint blast every now and then. For high volume flows I had no issues. I'll fix that panel line ahead of the windscreen and then leave it to cure overnight before a gloss coat tomorrow. Ray
  19. Being on a roll I just kept cutting plastic and taping it together. I am happy with the fit. I will probably add some additional tabs to ensure good joints in some locations, but the fit at this stage is not bad. Let's start painting and building or vice versa as the case may be. Cockpit and inlet trunking sounds a nice place to start. Ray
  20. Starting to find this. Plenty of dry fitting coming up. I'll post some images later in the week of my "discoveries". Any pointers along the way welcome. Ray
  21. For me as well. Good on you Airfix. Buccaneer will also get my money. Keep going. I feel certain one day, in the not to distant future, I will get my 1/48 Hampden. Ray
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