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Ray_W last won the day on June 29

Ray_W had the most liked content!


About Ray_W

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    One day I'll get back to Australia
  • Interests
    Military history, target shooting, this hobby.

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  1. We often have those stalled kits where something goes wrong sucking out your enthusiasm, leading to the build being consigned to the Shelf of Doom, hidden is some box to haunt you. However, since I adopted the one kit at a time, build it or bin it approach, nothing has been binned and I have no storage of unfinished projects. It has improved my modelling skills. I have to think about how to recover my work. Things always go wrong - stripping paint, removing and replacing decals, repairing dropped and cracked kits, thinking up ways to avoid putty and poor fit issues in advance, replacing that lost critical part, crazed or scratched canopies. Now, if there is something that I am unhappy with I just re-do it. This leads to a high satisfaction rate both in terms of finished builds and the recovery itself. What are some of your best recoveries? Ray
  2. My response is one of those where you want to respond "sad" or "like" so I finished with the "like" hoping you can foster the determination to get it done at some time.
  3. You're right with that Charlie. I usually like to jump ahead and get the ordnance done early while I still have some build enthusiasm.
  4. I've kept going with this build doing a lot of the small parts preparation. Not much to show for a fair amount of time expended. I do feel a big painting session coming up. I have also started on the ejection seats. Nice job by Tamiya. I have added some crinkles and folds in the chute cover and the back rest. These areas are shiny as I have used Tamiya Extra Thin to smooth the folds. I'll post some pics later this week when the seats are finished. Ray
  5. Hi Craig, Great shame not to see it finished. Definitely a micro drill and fine copper wire pinning job on the major struts. I think it would also require a small drop of Gel CA added with a toothpick or needle to get a quick and robust hold. Followed up by wicking in a small amount of Tamiya Extra Thin which will not damage the paint and further increase the joint strength. The Gel CA followed by Tamiya Extra Thin is a technique I use quite of often with tricky holds. Jigging would also help. What can I say other than challenging. Ray
  6. Also sign me up. I'll be doing either Kinetic's 1/48 F/A-18A or Hasegawa's 1/48 EA-18G in RAAF markings. Ray
  7. Hi Rich, I think I will still grab the ZM kit while available. I was following your build and saw the difficulties using their decals. Yes, one to avoid. Ray
  8. I have been wanting a new tool 1/48 Pearl Harbor A6M2 for some time having built Tamiya's wonderful 2010 A6M3. Well done Eduard and not too long to wait.
  9. Hi Paul, I really like the complexity you have achieved in the base coat. It is going to look great with the top coat. I also like AK Real Colors. Excellent to spray and maybe the best self levelling properties out there with their thinners. They're in competition with my preferred Gunze lacquers and MLT. Ray
  10. @Doccur Hi Ash, I think there are a couple of comments I would add. As I spent many happy years with my HP-CS, without a preset handle and MAC valve, I learnt to use the airbrush without these and I am glad I did. However, importantly, @dromia is an advocate of the MAC valve. Based on his comments, I decided to do some experimentation of late and as a result, if I was to purchase a new airbrush I would purchase the IWATA with a MAC valve. For the bulk of our work I think it is unnecessary and yet it has some advantage in close up work and I have found it useful. Artist's also use it for stippling effects. With some further experimentation I expect I will find it even more useful. I also appreciate the fact that I learnt trigger control without a preset handle and yet I agree with @ckw it does have value as an over travel safety stop. It can be a useful addition if you can afford it. I usually have it backed right off, and yet it is there if needed. Ray
  11. Thanks for this information. I actually never do an ultra flat finish in my aircraft modelling and by default work towards a very slight sheen. To my eye, this finish always seem a little more realistic. You only see this slightest of sheen from some angles anyway. Looking at F-4 images, there is certainly a great deal of variation in the level of sheen based on the aircraft age and areas of repainting large and small. I also noted the Tamiya instructions and, in lieu of better information, plan to follow their recommendations. I have been looking at a number of images and there seems quite some variation, possibly the result of the amount of repair/repainting going on with these naval aircraft. Note the age and the over paint of stencilling in the second image. A few examples: Ray
  12. I have the H&S Infinity CR Plus 2-in-1, Iwata HP-CS, Iwata HP-B Plus and use them all regularly. I bought the H&S 2-in-1 at a good price giving me a good option for 0.15 and 0.4 needles. I find the 2-in-1 format a problem (leaking at the front nozzle seal that you need to seal with beeswax), overly complex air brush, much more difficult to clean than IWATA. However, the 0.15 does spray beautifully and is still my go to for extra fine lines and mottle. I do prefer the feel/balance of the Iwata due to the solid chromed brass rear handle which H&S do as anodised aluminium. The Iwata HP-CS 0.35 needle has been my Trojan airbrush for years, still has the original seals, no parts changed (touch wood), sprayed everything through lacquers, enamels, acrylics (alcohol and water based). Easy to clean and still does most of the work. I love this airbrush. I do prefer the finer needles in the H&S and HP-B Plus for fine work only because I have them. Did a lot of spraying with this one airbrush doing mottle and fine work (1/48 and 1/35) before adding the others. Teaches you good trigger control and optimum paint/thinner ratios. My recommendation for a first airbrush. Iwata HP-B Plus 0.2 needle another excellent airbrush that gets a lot of work. Another favourite. I like the small cup on this one for small paint jobs. Easy to get into tight spaces. I agree with @roginoz Having used H&S and Iwata, Iwata are my first choice - simple, reliable, easy to clean. Does Iwata spray better than my H&S? I do not think so. Does Iwata spray acrylics better? I do not think so. All paints have a learning curve and thinning ratio remains key and will vary based on needle size. I agree with @dromia, I find aqueous acrylics too temperamental. Yes, you get them to work however, I just find the lacquers available today has meant largely end of problem. Would I buy another 2-in-1? No. If you have the money buy a single size airbrush. Eliminate another thing to go wrong. I realise this is not the OP question and just included my thoughts in case anyone else comes upon this thread. If I had one airbrush and looking to upgrade, and you can afford it, the Iwata CM-B would be my choice. Or, come down the range and decide on what needle and cup size you want and choose a cheaper IWATA model. You cannot go wrong. Ray
  13. I feel some pressure building this kit because the fit is so great. Any error I introduce feels more catastrophic then normal. The kit is so darn good you end up raising your own build quality expectation. Even the tiniest little bit of Tamiya Extra Thin that, through the wonders of capillary action, decided to rapidly follow a path down a panel line like some Hollywood movie fuel spill to plant itself directly under my unsuspecting finger tip, seemed a major disaster. Easily fixed, and the offending area was no bigger than a Q-tip end. The kit does exert some build pressure of its own.
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