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Ray_W

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Ray_W last won the day on December 2 2021

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About Ray_W

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    Male
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    One day I'll get back to Australia
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    Military history, target shooting, this hobby.

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  1. Ray_W

    YP-59 Airacomet

    I thought a good place to start if you are struggling is to research P-39, P-63 colours and found this in an earlier BM thread posted by @Pete57 There is specific mention in his post of the P-59 Maintenance manual. Taken from the Erection and Maintenance manuals of both the Bell P-59 (TO AN 01-110FF-2) and the Bell P-63 (TO AN 01-110FP-2): “All metal parts such as struts, forks, etc., which form a part of the alighting gear and, which are exposed when the gear is lowered, receive two coats of dull Army-Navy interior green lacquer in addition to the coat of zinc chromate primer specified above. Parts and interior of the wheel wells are finished with one coat of zinc chromate primer only” Two coats of the same dull Army-Navy interior green lacquer are called for in the “PAINT FINISH FOR CABIN INETRIOR” section, with stainless steel, unplated steel and aluminum alloy rivets to receive one coat of primer prior to their application. Now, one would be inclined to believe this dull Army-Navy interior green lacquer to be color No. 611 of the ANA Bulletin 157, however… The list of the materials to be used in TO AN 01-110FF-2 shows the following, two green lacquers: “Olive Drab Camouflage Lacquer, Shade No. 41 of AC Bulletin No. 41”, and “Medium Green Camouflage Lacquer, Shade No. 42 of AC Bulletin No. 41” Whereas TO AN 01-110-FP-2, shows: “Olive Drab Camouflage Lacquer, Shade No. 613 of Bulletin No. 157A”, and “Medium Green Camouflage Lacquer, Shade No. 612 of Bulletin No. 157A” Given that, in both cases, the Olive Drab is to be used for exterior camouflage, the dull Army-Navy interior green lacquer can only be the Medium Green Shade No. 612 of Bulletin No. 157A or the similar Medium Green Shade No. 42 of AC Bulletin No. 42. and therefore this should be the Bell Interior Green, at least for the N and Q versions of the P-39. Here is the link to the thread: Ray
  2. Thanks Bertie. I'll keep posting till the end. On a previous post I said next up were wheels. Well, in fact, I did so. Not as exciting as playing toy soldiers so I skipped over it. Here they are. All wheels had a mould seam that I removed by chucking each on an appropriate drill size using the solid end of the drill bit with a slight interference fit, then, using my cordless drill run slow, holding each wheel against some 600 grit taped to a flat surface. Not that painful. With the main vehicle coming together and a tray full of associated running gear items, I can feel a big painting session coming up soon. Ray
  3. Ray_W

    YP-59 Airacomet

    Have you seen these images? https://inchhighguy.wordpress.com/2022/03/02/bell-p-59-airacomet-color-photographs/ Not really wheel wells but may help. Ray
  4. @edjbartos @PlaStix Hi Ed & Stix, I think my photography makes it look overly complicated. The difficult part is sorting out the instructions. Once that was done, they came together quickly. If you have a particularly voracious carpet monster, then this is possibly a kit to avoid, I wore holes in the knees of my jeans crawling around the floor. I have been pushing on and will start the stowage soon. Before this, I wanted to plan my figures and this involved some modifications mainly to the 0.50 cal gunner. You may recall I am using this image for inspiration. It was a shame to cut up the superb Panzer Art figure but, oh well. he was what I wanted as a starting point. I used a spare (and skinny) Tamiya arm as the basis for his right arm, saving the lovely Panzer Art Thompson SMG arm for something else. An M3 "Grease Gun" is probably more appropriate for April 1945 anyway. I cut and re-orientated just about everything with the exception of his head and torso. Cutting, pinning with copper wire, bending and checking and getting everything ready for a Milliput session and the expected further shaping. This will include giving him another thickness of 'fabric' on his scrawny right arm. Finally got that left leg and boot positioned to keep him upright and yet still keep it humanly possible. Like the guy in the photo, quite a balancing act on the pioneer tools. Mühlhausen surrendered to the 6th Armoured Division April 5, 1945 without a fight. The two rear deck 'observers' are sharing a cigarette, watching surrender proceedings and catching up on some news. The only change here are the head positions. I am still playing around with the Commander in the cupola figure. He will not hold me up as having achieved a position for everyone on the rear deck. I can put them aside and move on to the stowage. I'll come back to them later. Times a ticking. Want to get the tank finished at least. It will be tight. Ray
  5. Thanks for the detailed responses. I wish I did not have to use the term Olive Drab, realising the confusion that surrounds this common name for a suite of different colours, mixes, finishes and environments. In this case I am focussed on a late war US Sherman version - M4A3E8 April 1945. So, I am in the same boat wrestling with the later war colour. The latest Tamiya XF-62 does appear too green for the earlier brownish shade although I now wonder if this is the case for the late war colour. It may, in fact, be correct. Thanks for the Tamiya AS, Hataka and Real Color suggestions. I will check them out. I use Hataka and Real Color already. In this case, just trying to use my Tamiya if I can. Ray
  6. Just about to start spraying Tamiya XF-62 (relatively new bottle) on my current M4 Sherman build. I have seen the comments around 2009 on formula change and more greenish appearance. I am interested in current thinking in terms of the Tamiya XF-62 colour accuracy or mixes to correct. For example, adding some dark yellow (XF-60) as previously used by Steve Zaloga for lightening. Maybe the latter mix is now too greenish. I would like to stick with Tamiya as (1) I have it and (2) I have my hairspray technique well established with Tamiya. The hairspray will be between the Olive Drab base and lightened Olive Drab in the wear areas. The primer is Mahogany Mr Surfacer; I am not expecting to show much of this unless I get a little too vigorous. It will be two tone camouflage with black. Plan is to use NATO Black. Any thoughts welcome. Ray
  7. Hi Dennis, Apologies if I missed the notice. What are the voting rules? Ray
  8. The running gear and some thoughts on how I assembled some very glue-less parts. Having made up the support frames, cleaned up the shock absorbers, supporting members and swing arms and having made a decision on what to do with the volute springs it was time to cement it all together. The you hit the instructions. Where's the glue? Not even a tiny little bit of cement even though I did not expect much knowing that it is to retain some movement. This will be one exceptional balancing act for ham-fisted modellers - me especially. Must be a clue later in the instructions. Mmmm ... only face showing a glued joint is that tiny one on assembly B8 glued to part A30. Now that is one tricky assembly. I was just about to glue it all together when the final piece of the jigsaw puzzle fell into place. In the earlier image I have circled the clevis halves A57 and A58 in yellow. They are missing an arrow or comment saying to glue to part A29. Placing the small clevis half into the cylinder while capturing the swing arm, you can carefully cement the part allowing the swing arm to still operate. I found the fit somewhat sloppy (some were a lovely slight interference fit) and needed to use clamping tweezers on most and then carefully apply cement (Tamiya Extra Thin). The result was actually a surprisingly strong sub-assembly while retaining movement. Then you can assemble the sub-assemblies and use the single glue location to part A30 to complete. Not too bad when you know what you're doing. Here are the troops all lined up. Reminds me of Space Invaders. Next: Let's prepare some wheels. Ray
  9. What have you been spraying? What do you intend to spray up next?
  10. Hi Ed, Gorgeous. And a Lee. I like the dust effects. Great kit isn't it? Ray
  11. Not at all. I was actually having a joke. Fantastic work in 1/48. I was actually amazed that such figures existed in this scale.
  12. Neat. Your build is a great check build for mine. I noted I put the periscope block covers on upside down. Oh well You got it right. Ray
  13. Wonderful work. Beautiful brush painting as usual. Nice attention to detail. I like the scene construction. Although, if I was them, I would not be smiling. Better get off that ridge as quick as possible seeing they are such a lovely target silhouette against the horizon. No wonder a previous Sherman suffered a disastrous fate. Ray
  14. One thing I am finding with "modern" kits is the manufacturer's desire to cover the options but then do not give you much information on the rhyme or reason for the options. Leaving it up to the builder. Seeing I jump around various modelling genres and subjects, I am rarely an expert on one type (maybe Spitfire Mk.I cockpits - a very limited field). Invariably I hit an impasse when it comes to options without explanation. For example, this build, you have three drive sprocket options - assemblies B5 or B6 or B7. We can all rejoice at RFM's attention to detail. Sadly no explanation. So on to the internet. Now a big element of my enjoyment in the hobby is learning a new subject so I have seen a massive increase in my knowledge of M4 things like what A3 and E8 means. HVSS systems, 75 and 76 mm guns, wet ammo storage, 23" wide track, large crew hatches, split vs non-split loader hatches - if fitted at all, aerial locations and the list goes on and on. I wish people like RFM, who have obviously done all the work, could provide a hint, a little more info as to the 'why' on the likely option choices. In this case I have a grainy image of my chosen subject and could just make out the correct option. It's B7 ..... I think Next volute spring assemblies. Umm, the instructions are this .... Does this mean I can mix and match as I wish or should A19 be fitted with A19 etc. etc? There is only sufficient parts on the two "A" sprues. No spares. You have to use them all. That makes it a little easier. It then becomes one of those kid's games where you have a number of pictures and you have to spot the difference. Carefully look with failing light and eyesight. Nothing seems different. Ah ha! Got it! The end of the volute spring finishes in different positions. Key assumption: Seeing the volute spring was just placed in its holder and the end of the spring could be anywhere, RFM gives you the option of mixing them up. Now trying to see the end of the volute spring on period photos is quite tricky and the reality is I am going to cover them in mud so there will not be much to see. However, before you get to this stage you firstly start looking for some other more critical variation, if it exists, that will have an impact on assembly. A simple note from RFM as to why of the options would solve this. Excuse me now while I make sure my assumption is correct. Onto Sherman Minutia and The Sherman Tank Site. Maybe Steven Zaloga has made specific mention of this somewhere, now where is that Sherman book? Ray
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