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Ray_W

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About Ray_W

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    Obsessed Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Australia
  • Interests
    Military history, target shooting, this hobby.

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  1. Ditto as the other build. I like particularly like the exhausts and oil stain.
  2. What an enjoyable decaling session. You have to get one sooner or later. Airfix roundels and stencilling and Xtradecal squadron codes and serial numbers. Those big C1 roundels certainly scream out "I'm British!". I will be toning them down a touch. I used two water temperatures. The Xtradecals are beautifully thin and performed well with the old fashioned "luke warm". The Airfix decals are considerably thicker so I used water that was somewhere between warm to hot. Seemed to be the right decision. I put down a little Mr Mark Setter first. I like this product as I have mentioned before. It really helped with the very thin Xtradecals. It allowed me some time to move them around. Without it I think it would be a case of get it right first time, or else. In my case, it is always the "or else". Once the decal was down. I brushed the top with a little more Setter, let it rest for 5 minutes and wipe it off with a soft, wide brush. After allowing the decal to dry a little, about 5 - 10 minutes, I checked how the sucking down of the decal was proceeding. If unhappy I applied some Mr Mark Softer to capture that rivet detail and left it alone. I can't complain about the result. Even sucked the wing walk decal line into the rivet detail. Minimal carrier film - nice! Good one Airfix and this is before another gloss coat to encapsulate, some toning down of the marking and satin or flat final coat. Typical of a squadrons that were part of the Occupation Forces the Sky fuselage band was painted out. The picture of NI-K shows a darker colour band, it seems significantly darker than the Medium Sea Grey and Ocean Grey and something like Dark Green so I went with the Dark Green. I'll let those decals dry, wait for some good daylight to check the surface and clean up and then another coat of GX112 to encapsulate the decals. A little bit of enamel wash and oils. Fit a few bits and pieces and another Spitfire is done. Hopefully some time on the weekend the next post will be "FINISHED". Ray
  3. Thanks Charlie, It's a gorgeous aircraft and a fun build and Airfix has done a great job. Decals - too many variables - another love/hate relationship. I'll be using the Airfix OOB decals for stencilling and roundels. They provide the correct upper wing C1 roundels. Xtradecal for the squadron code and serial numbers. Finally, long after the I post the finish pictures and I get this build back to Australia, I'll use Red Roo to get the 451 Squadron motif on the port side that Xtradecal did not include. We'll see how it goes. Ray
  4. Paul, Great result. Hopefully Mojo restored. I'm like Charlie. Current one and one more Spitfire before jumping over to the Corsairs. That's assuming life doesn't get in the way. Ray
  5. Ray_W

    Yellow leading edges

    Dennis, What a useful document. I knew the Spitfire ID yellow 2" above and below the wing leading edge centre line but not the Hurricane dimensions. Thanks for that. Ray
  6. Adam, Well done! If I blur my eyes a little it does look like a V-bomber in anti-flash white. Ray
  7. Dennis, Fantastic. I really like the look of what you have achieved. Great job. Ray
  8. I did my test with GX112 with Mr Color Levelling Thinners on my usual paint mule - the current project. I chose a wing tip and did this on purpose because I was interested in any variation in the colour as applied and whether the thinners would thin out the colour coats or worse. Also, just a wing tip, easy to repair. The following image shows the coated wing tip. Note the Mr Masking Sol makes the port wing tip light appear green. The GX112 coated ocean grey and dark green appears darker although this is related to the photography. By eye it is very difficult to pick any difference and, in fact, the lighter ocean grey does not appear as white as it seems in the photo. Bottom line - no reaction, covered beautifully. Good to go Note that I did allow 36 to 48 hours after application of the AK Real Colour. I think this is a worthwhile discipline irrespective. After application, and as another precaution, I used a hair dryer. I have a cheap one of my own - don't raid the family - I use it all the time. It's dedicated to modelling. Not enough hair to put it to use for any other purpose. Set at a low temperature and air volume, I used it to accelerate the thinners, just a little, out of the coating (10 seconds only). This is to ensure the thinners do not start eating into the base colours. I spray a whole side - lower side first, quick hair dryer job, put it aside for 15 minutes, then top side, hair dryer job and put it aside, done. I wear a glove on my non-spraying hand and rest the model gently on my hand. Don't squeeze. It's still tender but nicely touch dry. I shot it at 20 psi out of my Iwata HP-CS 0.35 mm needle. I don't measure the ratio instead spray and test and adjust if need be but it would equate to 80% or more thinners. Light coats, not dry, not flood and still definitely wet onto the surface. I really watch for this to ensure no orange peel. The results were what was to be expected from GX112 - super thin, tough, nice gloss. It is not the heavy, almost glutinous, gloss coats of some other products and I like that. It preserves, I think, a more realistic surface finish and will still take the decals without silvering. Here's a few pictures, very difficult to capture the gloss level. A lot of the subtle reflections disappear so it looks more satin in these. Not the case. One of my favourite stages to reach. Gloss coat on successfully protecting that colour underneath. Onto the decals, let's see how they and myself perform. Ray
  9. Bob, I stand corrected on what I said. Yes you do need to be clear on the DH props whether they are the bracket type or Hydromatic with its typical dome end that we associate with the Hamilton Standard prop. I can see that subtle dimensional change in the spinner with the Hydromatic requiring less clearance immediately in front of the blades so smaller spinner diameter but slightly longer extension in the spinner to clear the dome as John Aero said way back in 2013 thread you were also very involved with. I'm going to keep working on this subject.
  10. Thanks Bob for the input. I enjoy the research and then executing the change and the mods are really pretty simple. So this is a nice little project. You are correct on the props, well at least going off the reference pics for my subject. In fact looking at a number (most) of the RAAF Vc's they have the De Havilland prop or at least one very similar to that supplied in the box from Airfix. I think the term Hydromatic confuses the issue. Did De Havilland have a variable prop that did not use the licenced Hamilton Standard technology and that they also fitted to Mk V's? If not, then is it not simply a Rotol and De Havilland discussion? Easily picked by the different spinner shape and length. Ray
  11. Hi Troy, Just to be clear on this, my understanding is this is the propeller made by De Havilland using technology under licence from Hamilton Standard. Ray
  12. For those who may happen to be contemplating this conversion and are following along, I also posted a list of proposed changes in the WW2 forum welcoming any corrections or additions. This can be found at:
  13. Troy, I think Airfix has done us a favour and supplied us a nice rendition of a DH spinner and prop suitable for an RAAF Vc. I have not found spinner dimensions but by my eye it is so close it is hard to pick. At least it's not too long, too blunt, misshapen, oversize or undersize. Certainly for the early Vc's it looks very good. The only thing I feel is the prop shank maybe a little long and I was interested to read there was a 4000 and 5000 series shank in a thread you started at Key.Aero https://www.key.aero/forum/historic-aviation/3860948-spitfire-v-propellers-and-spinners-trying-to-pin-down-visual-differences. Also, the prop diameter measures out correctly at 10' 9". Even at this early stage, I think you can use it with confidence. It certainly captures the look for my subject - that pimple on a nose, fat jaw, tropical Vc look. Nothing like that oh so perfect Mk XIV front end currently coming together in my other build. It is a gorgeous bit of equipment. Ray
  14. Paul, Nice build. Great recovery from last night. It certainly looks the part. If you forget that mask just say the pilot wanted a little more windscreen armour. Ray
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