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Ray_W

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Ray_W last won the day on June 29

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About Ray_W

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    Male
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    One day I'll get back to Australia
  • Interests
    Military history, target shooting, this hobby.

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  1. I keep promising to print my own decals, in the mean time I keep playing with individual characters. Yes, we tend to get by. I finished the current job by eye and ruler. Still interested in other ideas. Ray
  2. Roberto, Superb. Looks like their 1/48 rendition and yet it's 1/72. Well done. Ray
  3. Craig, That is a brilliant result. You really nailed the whitewash. Lovely effects going on with the variations. Very realistic. It deserves a diorama and, at least, a dual pic with your desert 109. Ray
  4. Easy to get motivated when the results please. Very happy with "normal vision" numbers now. Worth the effort. Ray
  5. Thanks Col. I just posted some further corrective work with this decals. Now I can rest. Ray
  6. The saga continues. When I cut the segment for the "3" I did not allow for the cut and the tendency to lose a little on the edges with these brittle decals. Consequently, the first "3" done lost some height resulting in a step down from the "0". It was only 0.2 mm but noticeable. I wasn't happy, so me being me, and after a good night's sleep, up early, I decided it was time for some corrective action. What is one of my builds without at least some rework, heh? I can't remember anything about building the new tool Tamiya Spitfire Mk Ia and yet there it is, complete, on the shelf sort of ho hum. Lightly sanded the top of the "3". Post-It labels for masking. Just for overspray. Try to spray within the boundaries and prevent a hard edge other than at the new join. Micro spray the repair. I used my Iwata 0.2 HP-B Plus rather than the H&S 0.15 Infinity. I find the Iwata just so easy to clean and great for small paint portions. The H&S is wonderful for mottle and so forth but tends to sit in its box until a big job is on - super fine easy to damage needle, it's the 2-in-1 so the brass nozzle comes out and you must get the Viton seal and its mating face in the body of the airbrush absolutely clean or it will make paint cup bubbles, and the bottom of the paint cup is narrow and deep rather than Iwata's more shallow and broad. The Iwata's are always ready at hand. Re-do the decal portion and I am happy. At last, time to push on and play with some enamels. Ray
  7. Nice one Pat. It's why I like the GB's. Great to see the old kits in the one true scale. Really takes me back. Ray
  8. Thanks for the support guys. All for a couple of numerals. Thankfully that job is now out of the way and the results are OK considering what needed to be done. Not a simple job. I was hoping the Tamiya Decal Adhesive would deliver a pancea for all challenging decals. Not to be. First, I decided to try a port side zero on my mule (the project I am always currently working on) by leaving the carrier film in place . I found in a previous build, that with these decals, trimming of the carrier filmed made the decal much more difficult to apply. The usual result - cracking. With the film in place, the decal went on beautifully and I left for the office feeling quite happy. When I returned ..... ... silvering. The problem is not the surface finish, which is smooth and glossy even though there appears to be some pebbling in the red and green of the markings. Thin paint coats does show the variation in the plastic finish. I think the issue is that the decals have difficulty in conforming even after applications of Tamiya Decal Adhesive (Softener Type) and Micro Sol. I have even tried Tamiya Mark Fit Super Strong with these decals - great at dissolving paint - didn't shift the decals. Note the decal has not sucked into the rivet or panel line detail. To correct this, I next went to town with multiple very fine pricks in the effected areas, Tamiya Decal Adhesive, Micro Sol and a hot moist compress and then repeat gradually reducing the silvering. Final result was acceptable. Must be an easier way. On the zero on the starboard side, I tried removing any excess carrier film and it performed as expected and cracked on application. Straight into the bin. Next, I left the carrier film in place, applied the decal and, when firm, gently scribed the outline of the hole in the zero with my scalpel, applied Tamiya Decal adhesive and gently removed it with a scalpel and paint brush. Now this worked. You can see I left the carrier film around the outside. Now the challenge of the "3"'s. I had to drop the centre of the "3" taking a segment out of the bottom of the vertical leg and adding to the top. Seeing it would be in small sections, I thought it safe to first trim the carrier film. This turned out to be the case. Then assemble in situ as you can see in prior fuselage image. A little thinned white paint on any decal joins and lightly sand and all is good. Glad that's over. Why did I use these decals? Because I had them. Testy little beasts. Ray
  9. Gunze GX-100 thinned with Mr Color Levelling Thinner over AK Xtreme Metal. Ray
  10. Decalling a string of individual characters has mostly relied on my eyeball. I sometimes use a line of tape as a guide. I position it and roll it up and just roll it down for each new character. I can lift it and ensure no pooling of decal solution along the tape edge. Lay it down again and do the next one being very careful to not tape over carrier film, which I usually trim back, as a minimum, along the alignment edge. This will probably be the technique I will use on the next decal job. However, within the string there is a tricky character that has to be altered meaning also alignment of its component parts. This does not give much time to play around getting both the alignment and position correct. This got me thinking, what techniques do others use? Happy to hear your ideas for getting a string of individual characters right - perpendicular, spacing, level. Ray
  11. Hi, is it Frank? I use exactly the same as you. Tamiya Extra Thin, Contacta (rarely gets used), thin CA, gel CA. I think the trick is how you apply it. For CA, I squeeze a little out on a piece of glossy card cut from some disused packaging. I have plenty of these pre-cut cards on the work bench as I am always mixing CA/talc as a micro-filler and use my CA's regularly. I apply the liquid CA with some 0.25 copper wire leaving the insulation on for a finger grip. Dip the wire into the small pool of CA and then apply where you want. Any build up of dried CA on the wire end I cut off. Sometimes I let the dried CA build a fraction if I want to hold a larger drop. I haven't found the need for a loop. Sometimes I just kink the end for larger volumes. I use Loctite Super Attack "The Original". I really like its capillary action and lack of staining. Wicks in nicely. For gel CA I use a toothpick, sometimes sharpen the point, sometimes I also use a wire or a needle point. Currently using Loctite Super Attack "Power Flex" Gel. Often I will use a combination of Tamiya Extra Thin and CA. For example, the 1/48 Eduard Bf-110 has some very fine plastic undercarriage parts. I achieved initial hold with Gel CA then wicked in some Tamiya Extra Thin. If I am post gluing a painted piece with Tamiya Extra Thin I unload the Tamiya brush (as @dnl42 has said) to hold just enough and touch the joint. Let the capillary action do the rest. Usually this is all you need. I also always have a hairdryer at hand if I over do it and need to rapidly evaporate the excess. If your cap brush is too large use a fine paint brush. I am surprised by the lack of paint damage. I try to ensure there is limited paint on the joined surfaces. General comment for CA and PE - always try to have the PE fully shaped for the location prior to fixing, seek to minimise tension and spring. If I have something fine that may get knocked or needs to take some tension I will usually drill and wire even tiniest pieces - good practice irrespective of the adhesive. I will also use PVA glue for temporary holds such as canopy positioning for painting. Scary I know, but I use Tamiya Extra Thin and CA for fixing canopies. I keep gravitating back to this core set of adhesives and they do the bulk of what I do - aircraft and AFV. Like many in the hobby I have a drawer full of other options sitting there partly used/unused. Yet, everyone has their own set of favourites that suits their technique. What you have does work for me. Ray
  12. This is a case where it's easy to "like" what your doing with such a fascinating subject but, my, the word "like" does not seem to apply for what has happened to those nice lines of the 109. Ray
  13. I put on a gloss coat of Gunze GX-100 thinned with Mr Color Leveling Thinner. No issues with the MRP. All has went on nicely. I really like this stage. Starts to tie all the paints together for a oneness without losing the variation. As usual, the gloss coat is more for protection with some enamel pin wash in certain areas to be applied. Only decals I have to apply are the White "30"'s. I am nervous about these. I will be using the same decal sheet as those that put me on a steep learning curve earlier this year for my Bulgarian MiG-21. Now they worked out OK in the end, on the third (or was it fourth attempt). One good thing about Britmodeller is I can actually go back and read what I did. I have to use the "3"'s again, modified this time, need to cut and drop the horizontal portion to centre. Wish me luck. One good thing about spraying your markings is less decals to apply. Decals are, after all these years of modelling, for me, still, the greatest variable in the hobby. At least the painted markings are now under a gloss coat. Ray
  14. Read this and thought the whole post what great advice. Practice lines, dots and squiggles. You can do this on a bit of card, paper or your paint mule. It is amazing how quickly you pick up the type of feel that Jamie was talking about. You will know how far from the surface you need to be and can really watch the paint laying down making sure not too dry or wet. By the way, I keep practicing during a paint job getting that paint start point and paint flow feel,. Usually on the most convenient item - my gloved hand. Very useful for squiggles and mottles like yesterday's job. Ray
  15. Hi Rich, I have been using Tamiya Decal Adhesive (Softener Type) of late and been very impressed. It may of actually got those ZM stencils to perform. I have not given it a go with Tamiya decals (which I try to avoid) but will be on my Tamiya F-4B in this GB. I'll do a test run on my next build which will be Tamiya's G-6 with kit markings seeing I am in Bf-109 mode at the moment, Ray
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