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Ray_W

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Ray_W last won the day on December 2 2021

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About Ray_W

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    Male
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    One day I'll get back to Australia
  • Interests
    Military history, target shooting, this hobby.

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  1. Never had a problem with odourless thinners or naphtha softening the lacquer varnishes. Mind you, I would not start doing any washes until the next day following the clear coat application.
  2. Hi Dave, I primarily use the lacquer clears - for gloss Gunze GX-100 or GX-112, the latter is a UV Cut which I think, subjectively, sprays a little better than GX-100 (which is great anyway), then GX-114 for flat coats. I'll also use the Gunze and Tamiya alcohol based aqueous varnishes like Tamiya X-22. Everything thinned with Mr Color Leveling Thinner. When weathering and achieving effects, I use oil or enamel rendering, filters and pin wash onto the dried lacquer gloss coat, or flat coat depending on the desired effect. Thinning and clean-up is with odourless thinners or naphtha. I do like to leave these oil and enamel finishes 48 hours before a final lacquer clear coat. This is just cautious me. I expect you can get onto it sooner. Final result is not sticky. However, there are some non-lacquer varnishes I am very keen to use and that is the VMS (Vantage Modelling Solutions) range. Seems to have a number of good reports. Which brand of acrylic varnish are you using? Ray
  3. Superb group Tim. Lovely execution. The gallery images are marvelous. All I could do is sing the chorus of the old Split Enz song "I See Red". Ray
  4. @gingerbob @Enzo the Magnificent Thanks Bob and Enzo, glad you like it. Fun build. I just noticed I bumped the wingtip aerial on the starboard wing when taking that 4th gallery photo. That was the last photo I took. I made the aerials removable for transportation. Glued them in place with a little blob of Black Vallejo model color on the wire at the required length and then slid the wire in to the pre drilled hole. Pushes the blob on the wire a tad to make a nice scale base for the aerial mounting. Nice on the shelf or for a photo unless you bump them and swivel it around. Oh well. Ray
  5. Hi Paul @Dansk, You must really have some influence at Hasegawa to get their re-pop of the 1/48 F-8E with such impeccable timing for the STGB with both the kit itself and in a Hobby 2000 boxing. I arrived back in Australia and sitting here was my newly arrived Hasegawa order from Japan. So kit and resin are good to go. Subject? Still undecided. Probably choose something off Furball FUR-48-007. Ray
  6. A good problem to have. Have fun!
  7. Hi Chris, I have had similar experience to Gaz @GazB regarding AK Real Color. I have sprayed it a lot and really like the stuff. I usually thin with AK's intended High Compatibility Thinner and never had any issue. Found it marvelously self levelling. Dries quick, thin and hardy. The 50/50 recommendation is a good start although I am never as scientific in terms of ratio, moreso watching how the paint is actually laying down. I have also sprayed Real Color thinned with Mr Color Leveling Thinner (MLT) with no issue. I am really in to lacquers and the Real Color works and complements Mr Color, Tamiya Lacquer, MRP and Hataka Orange Line. Sprays nicely over my preferred undercoat Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 (usually Black). Easy black basing. No issue coating with lacquer clear finishes such as Gunze GX-100 and 114 or the alcohol aqueous paints such as Mr Hobby Color or the traditional Tamiya acrylics. Colour accuracy may be brought into question (typical AK) but for me, if an issue, I modify it. Real Color - an AK product that does work for me. As to Gaz's OP. AK 3G. Note for those who do not realise that this is a different chemistry to Real Color. Different product. The 3G being a vinyl acrylic. I do not spray the stuff but based on my brush painting experience I think that the spraying would be a challenge. If it involves too much playing around with special brews and difficulty with airbrush cleaning. All the while ensuring you do not mix chemistries, thinners and other complexity. Besides, if I want a similar chemistry, then I would use Lifecolor with good colour matches (generally). A paint I have come to also really like - spray or brush. With the brush painting. I could not find any really advantage in the AK 3G. It is sort of OK - brush marks, funny stringing,. I am sure with perseverance I can get it to behave like I want, but again, too much experimentation to make it work when I can use Vallejo Model Color and Citadel Colour with water and away we go. If I was forced to spray the AK 3G, I would definitely be starting with their recommended thinner - AK11500 3G Acrylic Thinner (Improved Formula). Bed that down and then play with other options if you wish. Ray
  8. Agree. The originals are fantastic kits if you want to display the engine. Otherwise? All I can say I was very happy when Eduard did a new tool series. There is a positive. If you build them all you will become expert in detailing BMW 801's and/or expert in how to close the panels up to get a reasonable build. I have mine sitting in the stash for that day when I feel crazy enough to build a 190 with the panels off. At this stage in life I think been there done that. But, I may be swinging back when you see all the resin I have to open up my Hasegawa F-8E for the Crusader STGB. So much for simplicity and on with the painting.
  9. I would advise that irrespective of what brand or price range you choose, do ensure you get a gravity feed dual-action airbrush. It is not that difficult to get the knack of it. This is an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. Which I love and have had for many years of trouble free service. It may be outside your budget. There are cheaper copies. Some Chinese suppliers bundle compressor, hose and a copy airbrush. I show the image just to reinforce the style of airbrush to hunt for. Note overhead gravity cup and dual-action trigger being push the trigger down for air and pull back for paint. The nozzle size here is 0.35 mm. A good all-rounder for coverage. More complicated painting such as free hand camouflage demarcation and mottling is well within its capability with a little practice. Ray
  10. @Marklo You can include me. Enzo's 2023 GB calendar works really well. I hesitated in signing up, but with a January start this one is good to go. Subject will be Eduard's 1/48 A-8/R2, most probably Oblt. Hans Weik's markings per Eduard's evocative box artwork. Not a colourful scheme but suitably mean for a Butcher Bird. This kit 82145 was released in 2019, that should mean the decals are not Eduard decals. Let's hope so. If not I'll raid the decals for another option out of their earlier, and much more complicated build, kit 8175. Ray
  11. Very perceptive, but not Warhammer, military figure painting with acrylics. So the answer is yes. This was where I came to appreciate the qualities of the Citadel and Vallejo products. In fact, my first entry to Citadel was the old Mithril Silver for use on my usual aircraft builds. I do not think it is available anymore. I also have a couple of the Copper State Belgium armoured car figures (later war khaki) for a small diorama for this build. Ray
  12. Hi Ed, Lovely build and beautiful painting. I really like your exhaust manifold. If I can achieve a similar effect I will be really happy. These detailed First World War subjects are fun. Ray
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