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Ray_W

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About Ray_W

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Australia
  • Interests
    Military history, target shooting, this hobby.

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  1. Pete your collection of EDSG and Sky builds are looking good. I am currently sourcing my 1/48 Trumpeter Seahawk following on from watching your enjoyable builds.
  2. Hi Matt, I've been following this build with interest. The masking pitfalls and struggles we all know. When you said your favourite part was removing the masks I thought for me it's a very nervous stage. I think it is a case where you will need to use a hard mask like a Tamiya yellow masking tape. I think you will find you will be much happier with the result. You have those nice scale copies of the camouflage pattern to lay over the tape. Draw the pattern onto the tape or tape the copies down down and follow with your sharp blade. You do not need a full sheet. Even that, I think, 20 mm wide stuff you have using for fill, should suffice. Lay it out and cut the edge. Keep adjusting the tape direction as required. Transfer to the model. Fill in the gaps with something else or more yellow tape. I would still try to take some of the tack off because I do not like big masking areas stuck to the model - just to give a little peace of mind when it comes time for stripping it offt. Get those edges down nicely. On those curved surfaces and if too tight, I would use a thin flexible insulation tape and probably slice a thinner strip to follow it. In fact the thin strips of this stuff could do a lot of the masking without cutting the pattern. On both these products, frankly, I keep going back to the Tamiya product because it seems to behave better. Many years ago in Australia there was a Castrol TV ad with the tag line "Oils ain't oils, Sol" In this case I think "Masking tapes ain't masking tapes". You probably has seen it already but Paul Budzik does do a nice YouTube video on modelling tapes on his Scale Modelling Workshop site. Worth a look. I really hope you achieve those nice smooth lines and tight demarcation typical of the Vulcan. Keep persevering. Worth it as you mentioned your plan is to do the new Airfix Vulcan. I must look up how they did it on the real aircraft. What a job!
  3. @Jinxman@Doccur@srkirad@Back in the Saddle Thanks guys for your kind words.
  4. I just thought I'd add one more of the port side of the aircraft.
  5. Finished!! Eduard's 1997 Tempest offering reworked by dropping the top wing half, thinning trailing edges, extending the fuselage, fabricating a new fin and rudder and then stalled through lack of a good undercarriage solution. There it sat for many, many years until KUTA XII provided the incentive and Eduard produced a replacement bronze undercarriage replacement for their latest and greatest offering. I could then carry on backdating the Series 2 Tempest to a Series 1. These days Eduard sets the bar high with their latest high-fidelity kits and this Tempest was about trying to achieve something that could sit proudly on the shelf with equal billing - Shelf of Shame to Shelf of Fame. You be the judge. Thanks to all the BM members for their support through this build. I will play around a bit on the weekend for a few more pictures that may be a little better quality for the gallery. In the mean time, some quick "finished" shots: Cheers, Ray
  6. Hi Pete, I am following your build with interest as I trail behind with my Airfix Berta. I don't think in my case there will be any 3D printing but I'm sure we'll will be able to write the book on filling ejector pin holes. Ray
  7. Finished some improvement of the gear actuating mechanism. Its complexity is such a feature of the Tempest that I think it was worthwhile replacing the kit's original supplied part with something a little improved. That looks better ….
  8. Thanks Greg. With no better information I'll fall into line and go with 70/71 but there's a couple of months to go before the colour coats so hopefully more research will uncover a more definitive answer.
  9. Further to the earlier post. This appears as standard 70/71. Not counting out a re-paint and a change to colours more suitable for a Balkan deployment.
  10. I'm very much into the research stage of this project. Not ready to start playing with styrene until the current build is finished … soon. As mentioned I intend to do white 8. Osprey provide a nice side profile artwork of this aircraft in their publication "Junkers Ju 87 Stukageschwader of the Russian Front (Combat Aircraft Book 74)". Failing also else I will go this way. However, I'm on the hunt for photographic evidence. If you're modelling the Bulgarian D's you're in luck. R's are much more difficult. Other than the photograph of the 12 supplied aircraft still in their German markings, that I am assuming was taken on day of delivery, this is the best I have been able to dig up. At least it confirms the marking locations (wing upper and fuselage) and, if I'm not mistaken, a tropical filter is fitted. Interestingly, and I hope the Stuka camo experts are reading this, that splinter camouflage may of been overpainted. The difference in the "splinter" colours is noticeable and see the edges on that right wing. Looks like a neat hand paint job when I was doing a 1/72 build as a kid. The German supply photo is difficult to detect difference in the splinter patter so I am assuming 70/71. Did the Bulgarian re-paint for more of a Mediterranean theme? The plot thickens. This could really make an interesting colour scheme. Correction: I now consider the photo showing the line-up of 12 R2's were not the supplied aircraft but was taken on the occasion of Bulgaria's Tsar III Boris's visit to the German Airbase at Krajnici, Bulgaria in 1941 inspecting the Ju-87's and Ju-88's.
  11. @Jinxman Thank you. I agree worth a KUTA. I am enjoying the BM Group forum. It's been great incentive and support to get the job done. Enjoyed it so much I entered the Stuka STGB as my next project - a start to finish this time. Ray
  12. My comments relevant to your Scimitar build but equally applicable.
  13. Pete, Your touch of nostalgia was interesting. For me I am constantly amazed remembering what I have built. A bit of pocket money and I was a veritable fully fledged aircraft factory. Something was wrong if the build took more than 30 minutes. It would then sit proudly on the shelf before being dragged out of retirement for a suicide mission ultimately being downed by anti-aircraft fire swinging from the clothes line. I hope you have enough jet fuel to support your roll-out of post war jets. Ray
  14. Hi Colin, Thanks for going to the trouble. Interesting and fun comparison. Studying all the Ju 87 photos on www.asisbiz.com I've come to the conclusion that when viewed at that higher 1/4 position there is a kink but from straight on sideways any kink is negligible. Anyway, the same is probably also true of the B1 and probably not an indicator of a higher top level on the B2 oil cooler cowl. What is clear to is that the B1 to B2 oil cooler revision involved lowering the bottom edge which resulted in a more circular shape and greater troughing on either side. I have a hunch that the top was raised giving additional frontal area by also lifting the front edge rather than as the B1 which tends to follow the cowl line down. The B2 top panel in the area of the oil cooler appears to be more parallel and closer to the line of thrust. There is an Alamy photo of the line-up of delivery of the 12 Stuka R-2's to Bulgaria that shows this well (German Airforce Bombers Typ JU 87, Stuka, lined up on an airfield in Kalinowka, Bulgaria in 1942 during World war 2 - Image ID: W66PBJ ) Correction: I now consider the photo showing the line-up of 12 R2's were not the supplied aircraft but was taken on the occasion of Bulgaria's Tsar III Boris's visit to the German Airbase at Krajnici, Bulgaria in 1941 inspecting the Ju-87's and Ju-88's. I feel reasonably confident that without detailed drawings I can still achieve a shape on my Airfix B1 more suitable for an R2. Something you have captured so nicely in your Hasegawa build. Ray
  15. I can see the finishing line. A few bits and pieces to do. A little more weathering and it should be done! Hooray! Those Eduard bronze legs are lovely but …. Makes the old boxing's actuator mechanism look positively dull. I will have to enhance or scratch build something. Barring disaster, all should be done by the weekend.
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