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About Ray_W

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    Very Obsessed Member

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  • Location
    One day I'll get back to Australia
  • Interests
    Military history, target shooting, this hobby.

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  1. The thread sealant is important depending on the type of seal provided by the airbrush for the air cap. If you have an air cap without an o-ring seal, like I do in my HP-B Plus, and you crack the seal during removal then a suitable replacement sealant is needed. When you reassemble, put some soapy water around the join where it butts up against the main airbrush body, operate the airbrush and check for bubbles. If you have none then nothing else needed. If you do, and depending on the amount of leakage, you will have less pressure available to drive air exit velocity at the nozzle and a reduct
  2. Maybe Trumpeter are being clever. We all know the Spitfire and Hurricane are identical so maybe they change the label to "Dauntless, folding wing version can be used for Helldiver or Skyraider". The same as any plane with a shark mouth is a P-40.
  3. A busy week and not so much time at the bench, but I was able to put in a little work preparing for a big decalling session scheduled for the weekend. This will include those tricky red outlined numbers. I was hoping that, with its re-paint, this aircraft had minimal stencilling. Not to be, lots of stencils. So armed with the Fishbed stencils from Begemot Decals, a very detailed instruction sheet and with apologies in advance to my Bulgarian friends for any nuances in the difference between Bulgarian and Russian Cyrillic characters, I am now ready to launch into it. As with all mi
  4. Goodness me Craig, Have not been by your build for a couple of days and just catching up on the news. Take care and best wishes. Good friend of mine went through it as a "young" 40 year old. Certainly was tough on him including hospitalisation. He is fully back up to steam now. Ray
  5. Yes, he has a lot to answer for. I have been checking out the same. Ray
  6. Best full demonstration of the process I have seen is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDlg-AIYn0U It was also discussed previously on BM here, but sadly many of the images are no longer supported. Still useful: Ray
  7. Thanks Hristo! Exceptional build in the link and very useful. Ray
  8. Wonderful Enzo, They're a great kit - you certainly get your money's worth. Ray
  9. Thanks Jamie, a perfect response - they are not the same. Very interesting. If it was a flat finish aircraft then the bottom one would be the choice, but a slightly shiny base commander's aircraft (washed/polished?) even looks more green (dark green). I am certainly in the age group that has the difficulty mentioned. Looks like more research is in order before I pull the trigger. Thanks again for the rapid and useful response. Ray
  10. Thank you Hristo. Yes the transponder, conspicuous by its whiteness. I will swap the supplied non-streamlined version part D52 for the streamlined J13. The wear on the leading edge and the top of the wing appears to be down to a grey undercoat rather than bare metal. Can you confirm? I plan some lighter wear, not as much as 2011. I will use the sponge technique on the grey. I'll do any bare aluminium with a silver pencil. Thanks Craig, it came up real nice. You should of seen it when I was using it as a paint mule, checking the colours ag
  11. I am just about to launch into my RAAF Mirage build for the ANZAC GB to be finished in grey-green camouflage. The green is Olive Drab BS381C-298. I have read somewhere that it is equivalent to S.C.C.15 which suits me as I can use a Mike Starmer Tamiya mix. I know Hataka and Colorcoats @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies have this colour in their range, but I am limited to Gunze and Tamiya. Are the two olive drabs the same? Hope you can help. Ray
  12. Fully recovered! Re-sprayed with colours that are more prototypical and weathered accordingly. With the naked eye the dark green is more faded and the light green is a little more green. All good. This is to be "243" around the 2005 period so not quite as beat up as they appeared in 2011. Thankfully no detail lost. On that wing we have grey undercoat, black undercoat, first colour coats, Gunze GX112 gloss coat, multiple re-respray trying to get the colour right and now ready for another gloss coat. Gunze and Tamiya aqueous acylics th
  13. @Hristo D. @John Masters @modelling minion Thanks for the kind remarks and thanks Hristo on the colour advice. I agree that my brown is too orange. After spending some time trying to get it right, to no avail, the decision was made to redo. Don't worry, I had made this decision before your post. I now have a revised brown that is much better - a touch of blue was added. I am still playing with the light green - this was a case of looking right in the photo and not so in real life. Thankfully the black-green is Ok. It seems right after fading a little. I do not expect
  14. My eye is so drawn to this feature that I think, unless the kit part is superb, they're a must or at least need to be jazzed up by the intrepid modeller. Your build is looking exceptionally nice. I really like the scheme and agree with Paul @Dansk that the metal parts are especially good. Now for those cans. Ray
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