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SS Xantho, Western Australia's First Steamship - Scratchbuild - 1:100


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16 minutes ago, robgizlu said:

That is wondrous scribing on the deck!

 


Yes, it’s one of the parts of this venture that has worked really well and that I am confident I will use again in future projects. 
 

I’ve got a couple of those ‘Incra Rule Ltd’ tools and would not be without them.
 

I’m pleased you are enjoying the Xantho show! 👍
 

 

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Just had a catch up from the start and I'm now wondering what happened to my Monday morning working from home!

 

Fascinating stuff - very educational to a lubber like myself. I think the point about a paddle steamer not having to provide a clean hydrodynamic flow of water to a propeller is very compelling, although I have no idea how that would look in practice beyond messing with the taper under the waterline. It seems to me that a lot of pre-hard-science "empirical" designs in boatbuilding and architecture were actually surprisingly good when they worked (if you ignore the odd collapsed cathedral spire and the likes of Wasa and Mary Rose).

 

And, as ever, a joy to see Man vs Wood in full primal flow.

 

Presumably with quite thick cross sectional formers, you take the outline at the wider end as your mark?

 

Regards,

Adrian

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11 hours ago, AdrianMF said:

Just had a catch up from the start and I'm now wondering what happened to my Monday morning working from home!

 


Hi Adrian 

 

I’m very happy to hear that all this is interesting enough to cause you to lose a morning’s work. I hope you aren’t self-employed though.

 

As for the cross-sectional formers, yes I do cut them to the widest interpreted shape on that section and once the balsa filler blocks are in and secured I sand them into a consistent plan-view curve. The thickness of the MDF is only 3mm though so it’s not that much of an issue.

 

Regards

Steve

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1 hour ago, Bertie McBoatface said:


Another tool for me to drool over. A Christmas present to self perhaps. 

Yes - the set square with little holes in it and the ‘Center finding rule’ are both extremely useful tools. Treat yourself! 🎅🏼

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7 hours ago, Bandsaw Steve said:

 ‘Center finding rule’  extremely useful. Treat yourself! 🎅🏼

Never knew such a thing existed, what a brilliant discovery - Thanks!

'Darling, you have been asking me what I want for christmas, well here is an idea........'!😄

Oh - great work on the boaty thing also! Enjoying each new facet as its uncovered and incorporated in to the next hull!

 

Malc.

 

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6 hours ago, Bandsaw Steve said:

Is there such a thing? Should I get in touch with them? 

The funny thing is I didn´t expect it to exist, but Google proved me wrong just 30 seconds ago. Here you go: https://www.steamboat.com.au/

 

But have a big cup of patience it´s under construction for now. 👍

Edited by bissyboat
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Well - I’ve just proven to myself how backwards I am with all this social media guff.
 

I’ve just gone to FB and searched for ‘Paddle Steamers’ and found a group dedicated to modelling the damned things. Approximately 1000 members no less! 
 

Probably should have joined them about 5 years ago I guess. 🤣

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  • 2 months later...

For Better or for Worse

 

As per my earlier comments on this thread (Oct 22 2023 ‘The Current State of Play’) I am - reasonably happy with the hull contours from the bow through to about ¾ of length of the ship.  The shape of the stern however seemed too ‘bluff’ and ‘fat’ and needed further work.  After a fair bit of reading and reviewing photographs, drawings and other models I realized that the most direct path to a defensible interpretation of the hull shape is to reference the archaeological outline of the hull as shown below.

0W7fLj8.jpg

The problem with the 'dashed line' outline in this drawing is that it is not clear exactly which waterline it is intended to represent. Is it intended to be an interpreted guess as to the shape of 'the' waterline or the general form of the sub-suface hull? At the very stern-most section of the hull remnant we can see that the corroded remains terminate about half-way up the rudder, we can also see that the interpreted lines also meet-up with the rudder, so my best guess is that the dashed line is intended to represent the form of the hull at a height about half-way up the rudder.  In any case, the archaeological map clearly shows is that, as @Dingbatsuggests, the rear of the ship has no sign of ‘hollowing out’ of the contours of the stern. It also shows that the ‘fineness’ of the stern (if that’s the correct term) is broadly comparable to that of the bow and hence the current stern - as I have modelled it - is indeed too ‘full’. At the same time however the portion of the keel immediately ahead of the rudder is too fine. 

 

As an aside, note that this plan is laminated and then cut out at the relevant line. This is an easy way to convert a paper plan to a semi-rigid template.

X92l1n4.jpg

 

With this information in mind, I set about ‘fining down’ the stern and recontouring it to match, as closely as possible, the preserved shape.  This is a matter of using chisels, rasps and very coarse sandpaper to reduce the thickness.

nb8Efor.jpg

 

The main challenge here is to maintain the symmetry between the two halves of the hull, this is achieved by working on both at the same time and constantly checking that what is done on one side is done on the other.

77heVGn.jpg

 

The process of ‘fattening up’ the keel was made by the generous application of 'knifing putty', a single-part automotive filler that I am finding especially handy.

rMlT93L.jpg

 

After a fair bit of carving, rasping and puttying I had a close match to the shape indicated by the archaeological diagram.

 

dMNwPK8.jpg

 

From here the sanding begins in earnest...

EPlndYV.jpg

 

The first layer of automotive filler primer is applied...

DUspV4i.jpg

 

and the ‘Prime-inspect-fill-sand, prime-inspect-fill-sand, prime-inspect-fill-sand’ cycle begins.

 

B63rums.jpg

 

h3rYEkQ.jpg

 

OftQtcl.jpg

 

y2OG6sb.jpg

 

Hopefully each cycle involves dealing with smaller and smaller imperfections until in the end we are dealing with blemishes that are damned-near invisible.

RLkAhtY.jpg

 

So now we have a basic model of the interpreted shape of the SS Xantho’s hull. 

 

r4t7yBW.jpg

 

F0rlich.jpg

 

thSf3Go.jpg

 

aYUT5g7.jpg

 

It's been a long, long time coming and, for better or for worse, this is what I’m running with. There are certainly many details to add but now, at least in terms of basic shape, the hull is done!

 

Best Regards,

Bandsaw Steve

 

 

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Great work!

The evolution of the model shape vs dicovery/interpretation of new info is fascinating to see.

Having scratch built a model from sketchy plans and then comparing the finished article to photos is very revealing of my mistakes!

 

Malc.

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2 hours ago, Bandsaw Steve said:

It's been a long, long time coming and, for better or for worse, this is what I’m running with.

     Gidday Steve, short of boarding HMAS Time Machine and going back to look at the real thing I don't think you could do much more than you already have in the interests of authenticity. To me the hull looks good, and obviously is the major component of any ship model. I think there comes a time with any project such as yours here to say "Enough is enough research, I'm going with this as is". Which you've decided to do. I'm looking forward to seeing her progress in leaps and bounds now. 🙂 

Regards, Jeff.

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6 minutes ago, Bertie McBoatface said:

 

And about time too. 😄

If I’d known how long it would take to get this far I doubt I would have ever started this mad venture. 🤔

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19 minutes ago, Bandsaw Steve said:

If I’d known how long it would take to get this far I doubt I would have ever started this mad venture. 🤔

 

Almost four years.

 

Still, the hard part's over now, I expect you'll be finished by Valentine's Day?

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10 minutes ago, Bertie McBoatface said:

 

Still, the hard part's over now, I expect you'll be finished by Valentine's Day?


Watch this space…

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Well, Steve, that is one big step for your Xantho. The hull is looking great from this side of the screen, and I think that it was a good idea to go through so many variants, but it is well worth while. I am looking forward to seeing the next steps of progress.

 

All the best, Ray

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Stand

 

Now that the basic shape of the hull is finally finished, it’s time to ensure that it can sit level and steady while I'm working on it.  Sooner or later a stand will be required for this model, so let’s make one now.

I’ve chosen what I consider the simplest approach. Take a sheet of 16mm MDF and cut out three pieces; a rectangular base a bit longer than the hull & two pieces cut to match the profile of the hull -see photo below - at points 1/3 and 2/3 along the length of the base.

CdiVx0p.jpeg

 

Stick the frame together with ‘Titebond’.  The hull now sits very steady in it's cradle.

Z0e9Gjb.jpg

 

At this point I noticed that, by coincidence, the thickness of many of the superstructure fittings were also 16mm so I carried out making the basic shapes of some of the key parts such as this skylight. As mentioned in various other posts I'm frequently finding MDF a most useful material for model-building and consider it a generally under-appreciated material in this discipline.

29kmtKe.jpg

 

Before long I had some of the main components roughed out in MDF and could easily put them in position for a quick preview of what the final  upper-works will look like. Since the deck is now held both firmly and level this 'dry-fit' is much more stable than before.

hTcgglW.jpg

 

ltBptkt.jpg

 

There is definitely a lot of fine-tuning required on these parts, and many will be completely replaced before this project is finished, but it’s most encouraging to see this thing starting to look something like a display model. 👍

 

Best Regards,

Bandsaw Steve

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