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Sd.Kfz. 165 Hummel - ### calling it finished ###


Robert Stuart
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Thanks Stix.  From one brief session, I am really impressed with the airbrush - it feels significantly nicer and more mangeable than either my old Badger (long defunct now) or the cheapie of recent demise, which wasn't that bad.

 

9 hours ago, the South African said:

Just a little word of reading waaaay to much. The front fenders on the real tank and also the rear could lift to avoid damage and facilitate cleaning. But in this case it may be so that you could thread your tracklinks. Great build so far mate. 

 

Regards:

Shaun 

Thank-you Shaun,

Regarding the addition of the tracks ... provided the drive wheels (especially) and rear idlers are left off, or free to rotate, there are a lot of options in this area.  On a conventional tank, or with Sexton and Priest SPGs I might come to the same conclusion.


On the Hummel (or a Dragon Nashorn), because of the track weight and fragility of the gun, I feel I must add the tracks before the main gun.  The side armour may prove vulnerable until the front armour is added - and that front armour will be added after the main gun is installed.  This, of course, will make painting 'interesting' with the need for masking to guard against over-spray onto the tracks.

---

Thinking about my reply above ... Dragon would have you add the gun to the cradle before installing them into the gun cheeks - which in turn are placed on the hull  before adding the front armour.
Question ... could I install the cradle and cheeks, then add the front armour, all without adding the gun until much later?

This would leave the upper sections less vulnerable, and allow me to add the tracks later in the build.

Thanks Shaun, you've raised a good thinking point

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No troubles. Mate I would think that the best way would be to build every single sub assembly and then play around with dry fitting to see what would work best for you. 

 

Regards:

Shaun 

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If you check out my build - I tend to keep everything in sub-sections to try and minimise damage - but you would have to do a lot of test fitting to see what could be added later. I kept checking throughout to make sure the fenders and upper hull could be attached without much trouble after I had got the tracks on mine.

Kind regards,

Stix

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On ‎1‎/‎11‎/‎2019 at 1:30 PM, Robert Stuart said:

 

I dropped my last (cheapie) airbrush half-way through last year.  This is the first outing for my replacement, a bit further up market, an H&S Evolution 2-in-1, very nice.

 

@Badder was asking for feed-back on the AV surface primer ...

The combination of paint and new airbrush was happily uneventful, they just worked out of the box (or bottle) without extra thinners or flow improver.

One problem (down to me) is that I haven't applied much paint between the road wheels

Hi Robert,

I bought the Evolution CRplus 2-in-1 last summer. Is that what you now have? The Evolution CRplus is gorgeous. I did have a couple of instances of blocked nozzles and the needle jamming in them, but now I've got my cleaning regime sorted that hasn't been a problem since. As usual, clean thoroughly and very regularly.

 

When I asked about the Surface primer, I actually meant 'what is it used for'. I've never used such stuff. Unless it's just a fancy name for a base coat?

 

As for your question about the order of the build, I can only say that I will be constructing my Nashorn's gun in full, OFF the model, and will only fit it in place after the entire vehicle has been finished. Of course, I will have to test the gun mantle for fit to the gun cradle and it's interaction with the frontal armour plate before I finally fix the mantle. I know your gun is different, but the vehicle itself is pretty much the same as mine, so I would have thought you could do the same.

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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2 hours ago, Badder said:

Hi Robert,

I bought the Evolution CRplus 2-in-1 last summer. Is that what you now have? The Evolution CRplus is gorgeous. I did have a couple of instances of blocked nozzles and the needle jamming in them, but now I've got my cleaning regime sorted that hasn't been a problem since. As usual, clean thoroughly and very regularly.

 

When I asked about the Surface primer, I actually meant 'what is it used for'. I've never used such stuff. Unless it's just a fancy name for a base coat?

 

As for your question about the order of the build, I can only say that I will be constructing my Nashorn's gun in full, OFF the model, and will only fit it in place after the entire vehicle has been finished. Of course, I will have to test the gun mantle for fit to the gun cradle and it's interaction with the frontal armour plate before I finally fix the mantle. I know your gun is different, but the vehicle itself is pretty much the same as mine, so I would have thought you could do the same.

 

Rearguards,

Badder

 

Hello Badder

No, I went for the slightly cheaper Silverline series. I would suggest that the CRPlus generally looks better.

Given some of the issues you've mentioned elswhere, I feel the CRPlus is a better option for you.

 

The surface primer is, pretty much, just a fancy name for base coat.  It does save using grey, black or white primers (though those options are available).  It also comes in a large bottle, which, provided the paint remains fluid, should prove economical in the medium to long run.

 

As you say, from a practical modelling point of view, the Hummel and Nashorn are very similar.

 

Regards

Robert

 

p.s. I am slow,I  took all this while to spot your salutation

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5 hours ago, PlaStix said:

If you check out my build - I tend to keep everything in sub-sections to try and minimise damage - but you would have to do a lot of test fitting to see what could be added later. I kept checking throughout to make sure the fenders and upper hull could be attached without much trouble after I had got the tracks on mine.

Kind regards,

Stix

Been watching your build Stix, and admiring the trouble you took stretching your tracks - and the very different approach to weathering you've adopted to Badder's.  (Though you both seem to have weatherd under the fenders before adding the suspension units.)

 

My own approach is very modular too, though it can lead to delays (I spray outside, which means waiting for good painting temperatures - which, in turn, delays glueing).

I'd like to get far enough ahead with the wheels to set my track length - and then start painting that too.

 

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Added some shadow colour to the lower hull, burnt umber together with MiG Ammo Dunkelgelb Dark Base and Dunkelgelb Base.  Maybe too much umber, but a few more layers of Dunkelgelb will deal with that.

 

2018-pz-iv-011.jpg

 

As you can see, I've started trial fitting the tracks - none of the wheels, idlers, return rollers or drive sprockets are glued at this stage.  This is definetly a kit where you (I) need access under the front fender - I'll leave the front running gear off until the tracks are painted. Not sure if this side has one, or two too many links. 

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Hi Robert.  I think the colour on the hull sides is building up nicely. With regards the tracks - I like the amount of sag you've got between the rollers and coming below the idler and sprocket. If you are not happy I'd suggest only removing one link - entirely up to you though.

Kind regards, 

Stix 

 

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4 hours ago, Robert Stuart said:

Thanks Stix

I'll try removing just one link - as you suggest - and see how that looks.

 

Regards

Robert

Hi Robert,

The track sag looks good to me as it is, but of course it's up to you. Whatever, the tracks do look nice. I like the open horns: adding that bit of extra detail.

Don't make the mistake of dry- brushing them 'silver' to emulate wear. If you want to wear them at all use a gloss or satin dark reddish brown. I've been using Dark Umber, as I'm sure you are aware.

 

Rearguards,

Badder 

 

 

 

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It's a matter of balance -  the sag looks good on a model, but isn't very realistic in practice ...

 

 

 

Current tracks
2018-pz-iv-012.jpg

I believe this is one link difference - though the position ot the idler at the back could have a huge influence.


2018-pz-iv-013.jpg

 

 

Mmmm, wonder if I should give mine a grey bias?
I tried looking for white ink (FW) this morning, but found my art shop has been de-stocking prior to changing their art department around :(

 

(p.s. In setting up these photos, I dropped some return rollers. Found most, but one is still AWOL)


pps Yes @Badder , I like the open horns too - just as well they are appropriate to this model :)

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There was a discussion a while ago in the chat thread and it seems that there are examples of tracks on Pz.IVs which are so tight there is no sag at all to others where there is a fair bit. I think you can decide what you prefer the look of.

45850980935_5ce8a6606b_b.jpg

 

44315786610_d4c09f719a.jpg

 

46132327261_aa5a9efc3d_b.jpg

 

Hope you manage to find the missing roller.

 

Kind regards,

 

Stix

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My 'Bumble Bee' is beginning to take shape ...

 

2018-pz-iv-016.jpg

 

Boxes - not yet attached

2018-pz-iv-019.jpg

 

 

Some small details that are attached to the fighting compartment

 

2018-pz-iv-018.jpg

 

2018-pz-iv-017.jpg

 

Extras ...

Dragon supply two MP 40 submachine guns with brackets for this vehicle.  I believe Hummels were also issued with an MG 34, whose brackets are attached inside the front, right hand side of the the fighting compartment.

Not so confident, but the two oval hoops in the photo above are about the right size for a Kar98k, and there are a pair of (? retaining ?) loops due to be attached above them.

 

I bought a box of ICM's WWII German Infantry Weapons & Equipment which has two identical sprues each containing an MG 34, four helmets (eight total, which are more than enough to decorate the vehicle) and, by co-incidence, a Kar98k.

 

2018-pz-iv-020.jpg

 

Not shown, because I wont be using them, are a pair of sprues with two MG belts.

 

 

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And a little bit of spraying this morning ...

Photographed with raking sunlight (quite warm if you are indoors), to help show up raised items.

 

2018-pz-iv-021.jpg

 

I've lost one filler cap - that really is lost, at least for the duration of this build.

I'll think of something to do about that

 

And some boxes, struts, doors &c ...

 

2018-pz-iv-022.jpg

 

My intent is to try and get some shading under these items before closing the top.

 

You've probably noticed that there are ejection marks here.  Dragon have helpfully placed them where they'll be hidden when the model is built up.

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Hi Robert,

Great to see things starting to come together, and again, interesting to see the differences in equipment/layout in the fighting compartment.I had a bit of trouble working out what those parts were in your last photo, until I realised those aren't small, they are large, but seen from a long way away'  (@Father Ted)

 

I'd suggest a slice off the end of a piece of sprue might do for the filler cap. You could heat some and stretch it before slicing, if the sprue is slightly too thick.

 

Rearguards,

Badder

 

 

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Thanks Stix, Badder

 

On 28/01/2019 at 18:40, Badder said:

I had a bit of trouble working out what those parts were in your last photo, until I realised those aren't small, they are large, but seen from a long way away'  (@Father Ted)

Most of those boxes, dry fitted, and just as big (or small) but a bit closer ...

(I've been a bit heavy handed with the burnt umber here, that should be recoverable when the weather warms a little.)

 

2018-pz-iv-023.jpg

Not sure if that's the propellant cartridge box on the fender, or if it is one of the boxes under the door.

 

2018-pz-iv-024.jpg

This is the shell box on the right hand side fender.

 

 

On 28/01/2019 at 18:40, Badder said:

interesting to see the differences in equipment/layout in the fighting compartment.

As you noticed, the 150cm gun was worked in a different manner to the 88cm weapon.

For others who might not be aware, the 150 had seperate shells and cartridges, while the 88 used combined units.

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Too cold to paint today - well, mostly, but I've added a few little details ...

The MG 34

2018-pz-iv-025.jpg

 

and a couple of boxes, together with a step and what I had thought was the fire extinguisher, but now believe to be the compartment air heater ...

2018-pz-iv-026.jpg

 

 

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Couldn't do too much over the week-end, but the Kar98's have been added.

 

With side-panel (dry fitted)

2018-pz-iv-027.jpg

 

And without

2018-pz-iv-028.jpg

 

You can just see, I've also blended in the ?hot-air vent? and step at the front right of the figting compartment.

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