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Ford Mustang 1964 1/2 Convertible 1/16 from the Coupe AMT kit: the Indy 500 Pace Car


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In a previous post of last Wednesday (pity, the posts numbers have disappeared), I applied the Aqua Gloss, supposed to bring a protection to the Alclad Chrome. It turned out that this protection was not enough and that I had to apply the Alclad again, especially after the rubber joint work.

Furthermore, this Aqua Gloss coat decreased of about 10-15% the gloss look of the Alclad Chrome. I was not sure I preferred this medium shine look.

Looking again at the real car, and considering that I represent the Pace Car, supposed to create a strong desire for possession, while the very first Mustang were leaving the factory, what means that necessarily, this car was highly finished, I decided that I preferred to come-back to the bare look of the Alclad Chrome.

In order to get this bare Chrome look, I had to apply the Black base again first:

 

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The comparison below shows that the look of the bumper is at least 10% more shiny (with a mirror effect) than my Alclad Chrome one, respecting in fact the "Roy's rule":

 

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I will have to handle with a maximum care from now these parts for the next steps to come.

Precisely, what should be the next step? Glueing the deflectors on the windshield? Adding the rear miror and the sun visor on the latter?

On second thought (the advantage of having a few time for my hobby is that it leaves me the time to think before acting between 2 steps...), I decided to first remove the outside windscreen mask and add the outside rubber joint.

Indeed, the latter job would become very delicate with the inside éléments (fragile sun visor, deflectors) in place...

 

Cheers, thanks for watching, TMO

 

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So, focus on the outside rubber joint. Is it the same than the inside one? Answer:

 

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I precised the width of this outer joint in a previously posted pic:

 

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For such a joint, the temptation is strong to use the Evergreen ref. 100, that matches very well. The only problem with this option is to negotiate the angles. Another option, that would be definitely better for the angles, is to cut a 0,5 strip on a 0,2 mm thickness tin sheet. But I will not avoid several connections, as my tin sheet is only 120 mm lenght, while the total lenght required for this joint is about 236 mm, if I want to have only one connection (the minimum).

That is why, finally, I should try to rather use, here again, tin wire, but of 0,5 mm this time, instead of 0,8 mm for the inside joint.

The fact that the inside joint is wider than the outside one poses a problem: a portion of my inside joint  will be slightly visible as on the pic above.

Yet I had not anticipated that and not painted satin rubber this side assembled with dsa, that so appears metal look through the windscreen.
If I want to solve this problem, no other option than removing the whole inside joint. Is it worth it? 

 

To be followed...

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Hello to all,

 

I finally decided to replace the inside joint, despite the extra work and the risks it entailed:

 

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For the outside joint, I one more time, changed my mind and decided to cut it on a tin sheet (I found a sheet taller than the windscreen):

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I am quite happy with this hard-won achievement, not perfect of course but rather good considering the challenge this step was.

I have now to add the missing elements of my windshield (rear mirror, sun visor) and then to assemble the deflectors on this windshield. All that without touching the frame...

 

Cheers, thanks for watching and encouraging, TMO

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Thanks a lot, mustang1989, Poul and Hamden, for your likes and kind comment. It is important for me to feel that some modelers are interested in my build, considering the time it takes me to share it with you.

As I said above, for the next steps, I will try to avoid touching with fingers (even gloved) as much as possible the Chrome painted frame:

 

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Call for contribution: I am not totally happy with my 2D air inlet on the dashboard, that is not at the level of the rest (without saying the rest is perfect). If any of you is OK to represent it as well as possible with the slots (using 3D or any other technique), show the result he gets and is OK to send it to me (at my expense, of course), I would appreciate a lot.

If the part represents particularly well this part, I would be OK to pay for this work.

I have all measures and pics necessary for this job.

On my Fiat 806, the tyres were made by vontrips while I was unable to make such a job. It was pretty cool, this contribution, and I don't mind if another modeler contributes to my build, on the contrary.

Only the final result matters...

You can send me a PM or answer here to your convenience if you are interested by this contribution to my build.

 

For memory:

 

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The inlet air to represent in 3D as far as possible:

 

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Cheers, Olivier

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N.B: Daniel (dbostream) is OK to take up the inlet air challenge without promising anything of course. I am sure he will get a better result than my 2D one. If so, I will replace it, definitely. I gave him by PM all measures necessary...

 

 

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Thanks a lot, johnlambert, Hamden and Ghost69!

Among the little corrections to do before the assembly of the deflectors, there was this narrow Chrome rod to represent:

 

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Seen from the rear:

 

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This narrow Chrome was not represented up to now, or rather it was included in the rubber joint made above using the Evergreen L shape 291. I just had to turn it from rubber color to Chrome with Molotow LC:

 

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Cheers, thanks for watching, TMO

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Hello chaps,

 

I am rather happy to show you my last update:

 

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Now I have to check this assembly on the assembly doors/ body, with a dry fit:

 

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Cheers, TMO

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Looks stunning with the screen/deflectors in place on the body, well worth your time and effort to get things just right.

You will end up with a superb replica probably more accurate than the original! Looking forward to the next update now

 

  Stay safe         Roger 

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Well, you have spent a really lot of time on the windshield and the deflectors, but the result is indeed stunning. Fantastic job, Olivier.

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What do I get with these square rods in place, when my deflectors take place on them?

 

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Is this square shape acceptable on the further visible portion? definitely not, as the pic below confirms:

 

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Conclusion: I must get a rounded shape in this area, on the inside.

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Olivier, I was way behind on updates so just now I read about your windshield adventures. Congratulations on your result, once again you managed to make it look more like a miniature than a model. Splendid! The effort you put into this build will definitely pay off. 

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Hello chaps,

 

I would like to come-back on the new generation CA I showed in my previous post:

 

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I bought it 3 days ago (7,38€ at E. Leclerc) for 3 g. and the LED light (pity, impossible as far as I know, to buy the tube alone).

Even if it is a bit early to draw definitive conclusions, I'm not afraid to say that this new generation CA is a revolutionary product.

I just used it to reinforce substantially my fragile and temporary assembly deflectors/ windshield, using my 0,3 mm tip home made CA applicator and curing with my LC lamp, by capillarity, and I must say this new CA is just the perfect glue to my eyes:

- great consistency, fluid without being liquid

- infinite working time: the glue doesn't cure until you light cure (just take care not to work under strong light when you apply it)

- very fast curing time: the CA gets hard immediately, especially if you use a powerful LC lamp (I didn't try to use the provided LED light). No need of activator...

- clean: you clean the tip before replacing the cap. Up to now, one of my nightmares with CA was to avoid the exit hole became clogged. No risk of such a problem here

- acts as a putty for small cracks

- solvent-free: no white halo on clear parts

- odourless: the common irritating odour of CA is curiously (and happily) missing here

 

A product that I highly recommend, so, that should make modelers life easier imho...

 

Of course, there will be situations in which other cements will be more appropriate, but the discover of this new generation LC CA will probably lead me to use less in the future the dsa and more CA...

 

Cheers, Olivier

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... unless I try to solve the gap problem before glueing the windshield on the body... I could apply a little silicone lubricant on the lower part of the frame to avoid the adhesion of the CA there, even if I have to apply a new coat of Chrome on the concerned area. 

I should choose the latter option, that seems more safe as done now rather than later, while the build will be further advanced...

 

To be followed...

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Hello chaps,

 

In the previous post, I said there was a big gap under the windshield both sides, that I had to fill. I was wrong...

 

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I have now to unstick my deflectors and glue them again in a better position. This doesn't mean I won't have any gap to fill under the windshield, but it will avoid to get a wrong shape with an elevated windshield...

 

This shows one more time that we always must check, rather than trusting our feelings (the deflectors, assembled first just with dsa, seemed to me well placed while they weren't)...

 

And this error will cause more work, more risks, more corrections. I am a bit mad at myself tonight.

 

Cheers, O

 

 

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On 24/11/2020 at 08:39, Totally Mad Olivier said:

.....

I bought it 3 days ago (7,38€ at E. Leclerc) for 3 g. and the LED light (pity, impossible as far as I know, to buy the tube alone).

Even if it is a bit early to draw definitive conclusions, I'm not afraid to say that this new generation CA is a revolutionary product.

Cheers, Olivier

 

Interesting info.
I think it's worth having this on hand.

Manu

Edited by Ghost69
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Thanks a lot, mustang1989 and JeroenS! Your kind words and likes are exactly the necessary encouragement I needed, while I have to make delicate corrections on the windscreen, the windshield frame and the body in front of the latter... I will detail these corrections once done.

 

Cheers, Olivier

 

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