1/8 Cunningham E Type Revell conversion

[roymattblack]

I'm glad some of my waffle is useful.

A quick update - I couldn't resist adding a few decals...

Roy.

[macgregor]

Keep waffling Roy, keep waffling!!!

Mac

[Pouln]

​What a beautiful car this is. Great details.

[shood23]

Looking very very nice Roy. I know revell are not known for putting massive amounts of detail into kits but I have to agree the standard shocks look very bad, you would think at this scale they would at least put it some real springs. Very recently I have been buying alot of old protar kits (who revell either bought the company or molds) and I have been amazed how good they are at 24th scale with full details and fully opening parts and with proper metal springs for suspension. It really got me thinking where along the line what went wrong and why the standard they set hasn't been copied or improved on.

Shaun

[roymattblack]

I must admit I've wondered the same thing many times with their 1/8 scale cars.

They look as if the design process started off quite well, but the further they got into it, the more 'time consuming' it became so in the end they just said 'OK - make that component one big basic lump, instead of the 5-6 parts it ought to be.

Heller clearly approached the Traction Avant with totally the opposite idea.

Often, a part that COULD have just been one component has been broken down into 5-6 bits.

Hence, what is probably the most complex and totally detailed 1/8 model car out there.

If only Heller had done a 1/8 E Type...

Anyway - moving on at a pace now.

The radiator was next and the kit part is a ctually a fair representation of the real thing, except it suffers from Revells curse - 'pyramid' shaped parts.

All four sides of the rad slope quite a bit for ease of removal from the mould no doubt.

These edges were cut off, cleaned up, angles removed and the rad reassembled.

Also, in the kit the rad has no back to it and most noticeably - no fan or fan housing.

An interior was made and covered with mesh - not prototypical but is hardly visible when finished.

The fan shroud was cut from a piece of 50mm polypipe - drainage stuff.

The fan motor was made from a scrap SU carb top - actually very close to the look of the real fan motor.

Mountings and fan blades were made from thin plastic strip. Extra mounting bolts and studs were added where they are missing from the kit.

Once all assembled and fitted, the header tank was made up and the wiring added as per reference of the real car.

All of these parts still need weathering down.

Next were the three fluid bottles which again are made as one lump, in two halves although they are a very accurate copy of the real ones, down to the different caps on each one.

I assembld the bottle halves and then ran a razor saw between them at the top and bottom so that the three bottles are now separate, only held together with the mounting brackets.

The bottles were drilled top and bottom for wiring and fluid pipes to be added.

The real bottles aren't clear - far from it.

One is stained a blue-grey colour and the other two are made from a tan coloured semi-transparent plastic.

I sanded the surface of the bottles and painted them with water colour paints, topped off with a coat of Klear.

The lids were painted the appropriate colours and the wiring added as per my reference.

The backing plate was angled - the kit part is flat - and was painted dull green. Weathering to add.

Once fitted, the brake and clutch pipes could be fitted and the wiring connected to the relay on the front left wheel baffle.

The doors have been polished - no clear coat as I don't want a modern wet-look finish.

They've been test fitted and now open and shut a treat, with minimal gaps.

Bonnet is being attended to...

I've plonked the bits together along with the roof just to see how it's all shaping up.

There are still umpteen things to do:

Trim, assemble and fit the hard top and windows.

Make up the door inner parts and leather them.

Roll cage fitted behind the seats.

Air vent to make and fit under the rear of the car.

Bonnet internals, lights, air ducting to sort.

Oil cooler and linkages/pipes to fabricate and fit.

Front bonnet extra light bulges to make and fit.

Wheel centre spinners to make and fit.

Rear lights.

Race number lights.

Roof lights.

Stripes and number decals...

Probably more I haven't thought of yet....

Another few weeks should see it through.

Roy.

Edited February 29, 2016 by roymattblack

[larchiefeng]

Once again Roy, you continue to amaze me with your attention to detail. It's not any one thing, it's the whole of it! This is a lesson to all of us on how to turn a fair representation of a great subject into a superior miniature. Like I said it's not any one thing but, if I had to call out one thing that makes this car, it has to be the wiring. The extensive wiring with the ties and connections are what really elevate it and bring it to life. The wire in and of itself is so simple but the time and patience and thinking ahead it requires to get everything in there is, a skill in itself. When everybody looks at this thread and the steps taken throughout the build I hope they appreciate you sharing how you thought about the process and how you solved each problem. I, for one, am glad you decided to come back and give us the benefit of your knowledge, by sharing you've made me think about more things that need to be paid attention to if I truly want a better build. I do have a question about where you've managed to source the different bits of wire and diameters that you use and do you actually measure the real wiring and convert it to the 1/8 scale in order to get as close to the correct wires in each location or do you just try and get what looks correct? I always seem to never have the correct diameter or the right color when I look for something to use on builds. For me that info would be good to know. Thanks for sharing.

[larchiefeng]

Once again Roy, you continue to amaze me with your attention to detail. It's not any one thing, it's the whole of it! This is a lesson to all of us on how to turn a fair representation of a great subject into a superior miniature. Like I said it's not any one thing but, if I had to call out one thing that makes this car, it has to be the wiring. The extensive wiring with the ties and connections are what really elevate it and bring it to life. The wire in and of itself is so simple but the time and patience and thinking ahead it requires to get everything in there is, a skill in itself. When everybody looks at this thread and the steps taken throughout the build I hope they appreciate you sharing how you thought about the process and how you solved each problem. I, for one, am glad you decided to come back and give us the benefit of your knowledge, by sharing you've made me think about more things that need to be paid attention to if I truly want a better build. I do have a question about where you've managed to source the different bits of wire and diameters that you use and do you actually measure the real wiring and convert it to the 1/8 scale in order to get as close to the correct wires in each location or do you just try and get what looks correct? I always seem to never have the correct diameter or the right color when I look for something to use on builds. For me that info would be good to know. Thanks for sharing.

[larchiefeng]

Sorry, somehow I duplicated the same post

[roymattblack]

No worries.

Wow - some extremely kind comments there.

I'm not really sure how to clarify the thought processes or planning of parts but yes, there is a large degree of thinking ahead at every step.

I'm fortunate to have around 350 incredibly detailed close up photos of the real car - another 25 this morning alone.

I am also fortunate that with a quick phone call, I can get an answer to anything about the car.

For example:

On the dashboard right hand dide, there is a simple bathroom light pull attached to a chain that runs through the bulkhead, across the carbs to a bodge-bracket on top of the header tank and down to the rad. (I haven't added these bits yet apart from the dash pull)

I knew it was for a Heath-Robinson way of operation of the oil cooler, but that was it.

A quick e-mail to where there car is currently, and within half an hour, 25 photo's showing the oil cooler, fittings, how the 'pull' works...

The same thing happened previously re: the brake servo and vaccuum tank.

Without all this info, I'd be stumped.

Mind you, the DOWN side is, with so much info you don't know when to stop.

I've added numerous little bits I never envisaged, purely because when I looked closely at the photo's, I could see 'something else' besides the part in question.

And so it goes on...

I try to plan stuff like the plumbing, tubes and main wiring before anything big goes in, as I know that in reality, that's how the cars are built.

There's nothing worse than trying to fit fiddly wires or tubes after the main components are in place.

If I know that part 'X' has two wires attached, I'll fit the wires to the part before installing it.

The wires remain hanging loose until they get connected elsewhere later on.

One thing I've discovered about these '50's and 60's cars, is that they seemed to use a predominance of black, brown and the odd red wire.

Occasionally an orange, green or blue.

How on earth the electricians knew what connections went where, when all the wires coming out of a part of the loom were black, heaven only knows!

I have gotten a bit carried away on this one, mainly because I have such great reference, and access to the real car.

It just bugs me if I add a bit and then see it was different on the real one... Have to fix it...

All my really fine wires are from model railway shops where they do several colours on little 2m rolls at around £4 a pop.

Other marginally thicker - but still very thin - wires are the innards of ancient computer printer cables.

Strip one apart and you'll have about 30 different wires in umpteen colours.

Ask at a computer repair shop and they'll give you more cables than you could ever use.

The fine connectors and sleeves are 1mm vinyl tube cut to about 1.5 - 2mm long.

Also, if you want your wiring loom to stay exactly where you want it, make the main section from solder wire bound in surgical cloth tape coloured black/brown.

At each end, join in the 'real' wires with more surgical tape and cyano.

The loom will bend and stay put.

To sum up, the best course of detailing any model is to get as much reference as you can lay your hands on.

I've also downloaded the E Type parts catalogue from Martyn Robey - it's full of pipework, cable, wiring diagrams, you name it. And it's a freebie.

Be warned though - you might be heading down a dark and dangerous path.........................

I'm glad if any of my OCD building is helpful.

Roy.

Edited February 29, 2016 by roymattblack

[roymattblack]

Just a quicko -

For those who think I never make a total blunder....

A few minutes ago I gave the hard top another coat of white paint out in my paint-space in the garage.

For some utterly inexplicable reason, I then decided to PICK UP the wet roof!

Of course, the second my fingers touched it, I realised what I was doing and yanked my hand away...

Unfortunately, the wet paint didn't want to part company - yet - with my retreating fingers.

The roof sailed through the air and in time-honoured 'butter side down' fashion, landed on the garage floor, wet paint to the floor.

Ho hum. Strip down, start again...

Roy.

Edited February 29, 2016 by roymattblack

[larchiefeng]

Ouch! Been there done that, too many times to count. Thanks for the tips on the wire. I keep finding more and more that other types of models are used for sourcing material for automotive builds. We should all, from time to time, browse through railroad, armor and ship building suppliers catalogs to see what could be adapted to our own needs. I found the piano hinge in the RC plane and boat website. It just goes to show you never know when you'll stumble onto something you need or didn't know you needed. I also like the hair brush for knobs and switches, how crazy is that but, it works. Thanks again.

[Codger]

Roy,

Great discussion of ways and means you found to VERY accurate models and thanks for sharing. That's what we need here - meaningful discussion to reveal the heart of advanced models such as you and Wayne (among others) produce.

It enhances our building skills and is a huge contribution to the enjoyment of the build. Good or bad, successful or not, I always try to impart the thought process as well as the execution. It's NOT about seeking positive comments; it should be about making positive contributions.

And beautiful models.

[roymattblack]

Many thanks Mr C.

It's 'chat' that this forum should be about.

Sharing of ideas and pinching them learning from others too....

My infinitely better half Samantha kindly donated an old necklace so I could nobble the chain for the oil cooler blanking plate adjustment mechanism.

Brackets and bits were made from brass tube and plastic strip, the 'clutch cable' section is a piece of blackened guitar string and the front end is simple wire.

It's just how 'simple' the real thing is.

Also added the air vent under the rear of the car.

Roy.

Edited February 29, 2016 by roymattblack

[larchiefeng]

As I was driving on my way to the doctors office this morning I started thinking about how I could use something on my Merc that was meant for something else. The hollow throttle cable could be used to thread the headlight wiring through like a flexible metal conduit on the real cars instead of just leaving the wires loose. I need to try it when I get home. Always thinking about different things. This thread got me to thinking about the wiring this morning.

[TGA]

I think calling you one of the best car modellers on these forums is selling you short Roy. In all honesty I think you might be the best one out here. Your work is really something else. Your ability to make something which is kind of a turd and make it shine like gold is a real treat to watch. Thanks for all the updates, they really are something to look forward to!

[Pouln]

I find it really great how you manage to use everyday tidbits and integrate them into your models. The results are fabulous and I must commend you for the time and efforts you put into sharing this with us.

[roymattblack]

Some incredibly kind comments there that I'm not sure I deserve...

Many thanks though.

I've now fitted the exhaust - minus the twin back boxes and tail pipes.

The Cunningham car has no secondary silencers/resonators. Just straight tubes.

These were added using ally tube with a faint 'rust' wash added down the inside.

Front lights are in and the buckets have been silvered using thin self adhesive vinyl rolled into a tube to get it in the bucket, then just unrolled and burnished down with a cotton bud.

Excess vinyl was then trimmed away with a new blade.

The light cover fixing points have also been added - the screw hole at the bottom and the two slots above.

In some races, shaped metal covers go over the lights by hooking in the slots and a single screw at the bottom.

Doors next...

Roy.

Edited March 3, 2016 by roymattblack

[TGA]

Oh man imagine the sound of one of these without those silencers!

[Pouln]

Lights are looking really great, Roy

[John_W]

Oh man imagine the sound of one of these without those silencers!

When the exhaust fell off my old 1.3 Nova it was deafeaning. This must be heard in the next county.

[roymattblack]

It isn't so much loud, as earth-moving.

The ground genuinely vibrates when you stand near. Awesome.

I've now sorted the doors and inner panels.

Like the Pocher kits, the doors on this model 'fit where they touch' so to speak.

The inner panels were not intended to be leather trimmed either.

The panels had the horrible inner trim lines filed off and the door 'handles' cut out.

On the real car, there is just a rough hole to pull a cable on the inside to open the door.

The panels were 'shrunk' by approx 1.5mm at the edges and bottom so the leather could wrap around.

I deliberately used shabby bits of thin leather from the edge of the skin, as the real car trim is somewhat tatty!

One trimmed, part-open window glazing was added using thin lexan sheet and then the panels were fixed in place.

The doors open and close nice and snug.

Next, the front stripes and decals were added. Also the numbers on the doors.

The car is looking fairly close to completion but there's still a surprising amount to do yet...

Roy.

Edited March 3, 2016 by roymattblack

[Codger]

Outstanding Roy. Beautiful door fit.

I suspect the windscreen will be a challenge; will you use the kit 'screen? Vac form from a master?

[roymattblack]

The kit screen won't be any use as the coupe and roadster screens are completely different.

I've seen a few of these kits converted to roadster where the builder chops the screen pillars shorter and then also cuts the kit screen down to fit.

It looks ok, but the gradient of the screen is wrong, as is the inward angle of the side pillars when looked at from the front.

So - it will be a vac formed screen, the kit screen surround lower part which I cut off earlier and kept, and the kit side pillars, trimmed and repositioned at the right angles.

Aaarrgghhh.... Stiff drink will be needed...

I'm still scratching my head about the rear screen rubber surround...

Roy.

[Codger]

The kit screen won't be any use as the coupe and roadster screens are completely different.

I've seen a few of these kits converted to roadster where the builder chops the screen pillars shorter and then also cuts the kit screen down to fit.

It looks ok, but the gradient of the screen is wrong, as is the inward angle of the side pillars when looked at from the front.

So - it will be a vac formed screen, the kit screen surround lower part which I cut off earlier and kept, and the kit side pillars, trimmed and repositioned at the right angles.

Aaarrgghhh.... Stiff drink will be needed...

I'm still scratching my head about the rear screen rubber surround...

Roy.

Yes a big challenge and a lot of work. You're up to it though.

For the rubber at the rear - yes another challenge. Aside from the previously mentioned ideas; I can only think of one way now.

Find proper diameter rubber tubing (maybe rad hose kind of stuff from 1/12 kits), build a jig to hold it from twisting or turning (think a long slot) and cut a slit the length of it. Possibly taping it in and cutting through the tape would work.

Fiddly, aggravating not fun. But you may get what you want.

[vontrips]

That's looking stunning Roy!