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Everything posted by shood23

  1. Looking at it To fix would not be too hard. the front wing peices are all easy fix, the floor pan/diffuser a little harder but all could be done with the correct thickness plasticard. It was the first year of new regs in 09 so all bits are very basic shapes compared with the following year. The steering wheel again not to hard it would just be a time consuming job to get right. All the decals are again very easily printable to replace on damaged parts. Shaun
  2. Séan it was for a race car but with all the info I got from here and a little more digging using different search words I have finally managed to get the job done. Just need someone who can print them now. Shaun
  3. Can anyone point me to a person who can print decals with white ink? I've tried emailing parkes on here but have got no reply as of yet so if anyone knows of anybody else who can print good quality decals that would be great. Shaun
  4. Thanks séan. I know of white decal paper in looking more into making a sheet to send to an actual person to print with the white with no outline. Shaun
  5. Hi guys I call on the wisdom of the group. I need a quick/ over simplified explanation of how to use one or all of the tagged applications above on how to make white decals with no background so i can send the file straight to a print maker. I have only recently started using these apps so am very overwhelmed in the functions (many swear words have come out). All i want to make is around 10 decals that are word logos for a certain car but all have to be white and I can't seem to 1) find away to import the logos I want to use and 2) find away to change the back ground colour to nothing. I've watch many YouTube videos but nothing has come up that closely resembles what I am trying to do. The thing is I get it's probably going to be something super easy but I'm thick when it comes to new programs. Shaun
  6. Hi Paul, I have a friend over on another forum who is wanting decals to be printed. He would normally do them himself but this set has white decals to be printed. If possible for you to help him do you have an email address I can give him so he can contact you directly. Thanks Shaun
  7. It's not bad but like you say not as good of a shine as 2k but with a little work can be made to shine quite well. Over a full body it works well as i used it on a tamiya mp4/4 McLaren a few years back and that's held the shine really well compared to how I thought it would. Shaun
  8. Another of the builds ive been working on recently. Fujimis McLaren MP4-12C GT3. Overall its a pretty nice kit, lots of scope to improve as youll see with some of the things in doing to my build. So the obligatory box picture. All packaged in with plenty of room to spare. The standard kit livery is nice but there are plenty of options for this kit to make loads of different cars. Ive gone for these, a 2012? Seb loeb car. How it should look once done. There are issues with the instuctions that i have noticed but are all easily fixable. The body does come out of the box and looks a little weird with what looks like huge skirts down the side. Alot of wasted plastic if you ask me. With the side body parts glued on. The body and intake parts are now ready for some primer. The one area i want to change is the engine area as it is very basic. Some thing needs to be done about this. Luckily mclaren have used the same basic plug and play engine in all the cars from the p1 all tge way down to the 570s. Revell make a pretty well detailed 570s with near full engine, so the 570s and gt3 have the same engine although the gt3 engine is slightly detuned but the basic layout is exactly the same. One thing that does need modifying is the rear wheel attachments. The whole middle section needs cutting out and the upper "suspension" parts need gluing into the wheel arches. Finally for the engine how it all fits with tge changes. Rather luckily the exhaust off the fujimi kit fits exactly where the revell kits exhaust goes, it even uses the same mounting holes. Actually ome more quick picture of the engine. With the body on you dont see much of it but even what you do see makes a massive difference. The floor needed some mounting points for the framework of the revell engine. The frame and floor have both been sprayed and some minor detail painting done. One problem i did run into was how to mount the wheels on the hubs due to the kit just having a metal bar going from wheel to wheel. An old set of fujimi f1 wheel pins worked perfectly, glued them in from behind and the wheels mount on the rear now just as the do the front. Rims have been painted with alclad steel. Tyres and decals added. And finally for this first big update the body and little parts have been put in a coat of white primer. More soon. Shaun.
  9. So on to part 2 of the build bringing it up to date. So the nosecone needed a small strip of plastic card added at the top to replace the material lost when cutting it off the main body part. As seen here there would have been a .5 mm too much gap so this small plastic was very much needed. Staying at the front and these little wing flow conditioners are a slight pain. As you can see there will be a rather visible white section one added if i followed the instuctions. So i cut the little tab off the white bit, glued it into the wing and filled the gaps around it minus where the original part will go. Now going to the rear of the car and the exhaust. I didnt like how the tip looked as it would always have that join line visible on the inside, so i cut the end off and added a bit of plastic tube. The floor pan had a lot of injection marks all on the top surface of it and all in obvious places. It took a good hour just to buff them all out. After this a couple of coats of gloss black were sprayed, this is just after the tack coat. Also the engine cover has been sprayed in primer just to check the filler line between the 2 parts. The main body section has also been put in a primer coat. Mainly just because its now progressed enough to do it but also to check the join lines on the top of the monocoque. The rims have been sprayed with alclad white aluminium. After a coat of alclad aqua gloss the decals were applied and then one more coat of aqua gloss added and i must admit i am really happy with how these have turned out. Tyres have been scrubbed with a dremmel. Finished tyre on the left compared to one thats only had a dremmel run over it. At this scale 17' spec tyres (top) compared to 16' spec (bottom) isnt that different especially when you do the same comparion in 1/12. The floor has had some of the tamiya carbon decals added. Soon i am expecting a company like acu-station or s27 to do a full carbon set but tamiyas decals are really nice. Some tamiya smoke will be added also to tone the decals down as they are quite out there and loud. And finally the exhaust has been sparyed up in alclad pale burnt gold. More soon Shaun
  10. Thanks for the comment monsjmse. This one will be a seb vettel car with only a few changes compared to an out the box build. I have one more that will have as much as i can possibly change done to it once maybe some more options come out from tabu decals and studio 27. Shaun
  11. Been a while since i last properly posted on here so i though this would be a good way to come back to the forum. So this will be my build thread for tamiyas newest kit, from what ive seen so far its a nice kit with some parts i dont like but others i do. So i am going to be honest i am quite a bit into the build so i will break up the thread into a couple of comments. To properly start lets get the obligatory box picture out of the way. Basic tamiya offering from previous kits with a picture of the subject and sprues at the bottom. The inners are packed quite tight but not overly so. Decals are very nice and also include quite a bit of carbon effect decals So on to some plastic cutting. The main front parts of the body are a depature from the normal way but as you will see later its not actually a bad way. So the lower portion of the monocoque has had all the little suspension holders and support beam added then the 2 halves glued together. So about 5 parts in and already im changing the car to suit my needs. The nosecone was cut off. This is why. The lower flow conditioners would be insanely tricky to paint if left as tamiya made it. The engine (less) cover had the inner peices glued on and after the picture was joined together. So a quick mock up of the tamiya car next to my mfh car. Checking how those iconic stormtrooper style side pods fit after the issues i had with the mfh car. Gearbox halves have been glued together. Front wing checked for fit. And the same for the rear wing. So that's it for update 1, due to the time of me finishing this i will post the next few pictures tomorrow now instead of tonight. More soon Shaun
  12. Finally!!! I got my hands on a protar lancia lc2 with a little help with a freind of mine. Shaun
  13. Fantastic work. That shine on the black, as many here know, is incredibly hard to get as good as that. Shaun
  14. Just picked this up from hlj for just over £20. Ver.2 of the LB GT-R Shaun
  15. Personally i never spray anything on the spurs no matter now little. Great kit aswell by the way, always loved these old escort wrc kits As for attaching parts before it's entirely up to you. Small bits sometimes attached before paint pose the risk of being knocked off later on in the build but things like bonnet vents and wings are again up to how confident you are in your own abilities and if on the rear car the joins between these parts are flush or there is a visible line. And any mark that has been put on the body in pencil needs to be removed before you do any painting as if you don't these areas will not paint properly with reactions or peeling and it would be a shame to have this happen to such great car. And your line about doing it wrong, like myself in this hobby you will always find better ways of doing things through trial and error and ways that work for me may not be the best way for you. And as you said you mainly work with rattle cans so anything you do if it doesn't work out how you would like is easy to correct by putting the painted parts in a bath of ipa 91% or above for a day or 2 as this will pull any paint off the body without harming the plastic. Shaun
  16. I did think about some smoke but I found on a test peice that a semi gloss or Matt coat really takes the edge off the effect without darkening the colours. But after I finish this next stage I will make my mind up definitely what I am going to do. Shaun
  17. Don't worry kev ask away I'm happy to help. All the colour coats of paint I've used on this so far have been zero paints only the primers have not been. I've only ever had issues with clogging with alclad gloss black base but I'm putting that down to more my fault than alclad as it wasn't too long after i first started using an airbrush. And I use my good old trusty iwata revolution CR for everything so the clear coat will also be painted with a 0.5 at probably just under 30psi as I find that works a little better at higher pressure. But for now I need to wait for a slightly better temp and humidity day until I can even think about clear as that's the big trick I've learnt is the better conditions the better finish. Shaun
  18. Right so before I get around to adding some clear to the body on this build (zero paint clear not Mr top coat this time) I feel I need to get all the other body parts to the same readiness. So the front wing has had all the gaps sanded through to take any extra material out properly and all the holes have been drilled and a mock up off all front end components was done but not pictured just to make sure it all sat right. Then finally some primer. The front hatch bit with s-duct was put in primer a while ago but dumbly I forgot to add the little antenna stork so this was added and all primer coated again then flatter back so it's now fully ready for white primer then the red. Its quite nicely contrasting with the red though. The rear panels that hide all the inner suspension components have also had a coat of primer added. And then finally the side aero parts have been put in primer. Not quite sure what happened to these last 2 pictures as they on on a black background not blue. Anyway more soon Shaun
  19. So a little more progress to this. The front end has had all the carbon decals added. As expected it wasn't a straight forward task as i eludedto in my last comment, the wheel arches folded up like crazy and would have left nasty stretch marks all over had I just tried to manipulate the decals flat so I cut around the panel line and redone with extra parts then the very top edges just under the windscreen did the same as the were curbing one way and around also so 2 more new bits for that. So what scale motorsport gives with 2 bit really I couldn't do with less than 6. All the slots were cut with a sharp blade and thankfully none of them messed up. Both doors are now finished and ready to be sealed. Now on to some of the annoying parts. as I spent so much time fiddling with the wheel arches and the top areas on the front carbon bits I hadn't noticed the massive fold just below the front hatch. After trying to unstuck the decal with massive amounts of Microsol to the point this happened. Empty bottle It wasn't going to work. I made drastic decision to sand it back and redo And now with a whole new bit that covers quite alot of the front left side of the car (front right in the picture) And that was that I am calling the main body done for decals. So out came the Mr top coat gloss and on it went. The lights don't do the picture justice, they show bits you can't see with the eye. All the other finished parts were also covered in clear. Now while all that has a few days to gas off it's on to carbon decals on some of the other areas of the car. So the front splitter. Given the curves on this I was expecting the same as the front end bits but I guess as this is over a smaller area it made it easier to work with. The rear wing has caused some headaches as the carbon wraps around so I am having to so one half, clear coat then do the other half and clear coat again. And finally the little bits that go on the doors have had carbon applied also. More soon Shaun
  20. Right so again after a month of just sitting around I pulled this back out. Honestly this has gone to about 3rd in line now of importantness with the f1gtr taking up so much time and also as we are now in the f1 launch season the SF70H has been given a lot more love but this is slowly moving along in the background. Also another big reason why the car hasn't taken any major steps is I used Mr hobby top coat gloss on the car and that's had to of been left to fully cure before I can do anything else, I've been told it's very much like Tamiya and takes a long time to fully cure so around a month is normally the time for Tamiya so I've treated this the same. So this was the body about 3 weeks ago. And this is it now. Hopefully over the weekend I can buff out any bad bits and get on to painting the rest of the splitters and other little areas. I didn't like the wheel colour and decided to strip the plating and redo myself. This is after primer. And now in a semi gloss black look. I do need to add one small decal but this will be done later then a coat of semi gloss to seal it. And finally for this time the hood which I had to redo has finally had a couple of layers of clear added. The lighting exaggerates the effect on how the clear coat has gone down. Also I can't get a good enough picture to show the effect of the special white colour, maybe organic light may show this better. More soon Shaun
  21. The scale motorsport set is alot better than I ever imagined it would be. Some of the templates were a little off and most are slightly bigger than the part the go on but any oversized bits are sorted with a sharp blade or the just roll over the edges and are hidden away. The front area If it were me I would have broken up into more than 2 bits just for ease of installing (you'll see why in my next update) but other than that any bad bits on the car are mainly my fault not the decal. Shaun
  22. It turned up today and my word is it a beautiful car. Platz or nunu who ever really made it really knocked it out the park with the parts also and the detail set with the carbon (yes I know I love carbon) and the etch bits are really top grade. Shaun
  23. Ahhh beautiful. Lovely subject. So many mfh builds going on at once, reminds me of a year or 2 ago when there was loads of pocher builds all at once. Looking forward to seeing more. Shaun
  24. Couple of purchases recently. First up a fujimi Ferrari f12. There is one of these in the car showroom near me that I've just been drooling over recently and this was as close as I can get to owning one. Then to go with the Tamiya Merc amg I had to get the platz BMW M6 GT3 with the detail up set. £55 total with free post from tiger hobbies. Shaun
  25. Needle is 0.5 I think at roughly 22-26 psi. Clear coat will go up a little higher though as I find it lays down nicer. For now I don't touch the paint unless I have to. Ironically I did inbetween coats as a huge bit of junk got on the nose cone, this was just sanded off with 2500 grit wet and dry then recoated. After a couple of coats of clear I will sand back a little with the 2500 again then maybe 1 more coat of clear, then decals, more clear, then micromesh from 4000 up through the grades to 12000 and finally some Brazilian wax and never touch it with bare hands again. If I do anything differently for this because of size I will point it out when I do it though. I know exactly what you mean, for this I ordered 2 60ml pots thinking it was going to be like the 04-06 frmerrari red which I went through near enough 1 whole pot for a 1/20 car a while ago. But so far on the whole body I've only used around 10-15ml so I've got alot left over for the Tamiya SF70H and the DTM SF70H if I ever build them. Shaun
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