How-to Mr Metal Primer?

[Mike]

Any tips or tricks for using this through an airbrush? The instructions are all in Japanese, so I'm struggling!

My first inclination is to just load it into my airbrush and squirt some.

[SaintsPhil]

Sounds like a reasonable approach, if it shoots candy floss add some Mr Thinners!

[Nigel Heath]

Do you mean the stuff in the bottle or aerosol?

[Mike]

The bottle. Looks like water, smells like nail varnish

[Nigel Heath]

If its as thin as water I can't see any reason not to have a go as is.

Maybe open a window or do outside as it is a lovely day

Nigel

[Mike]

It's not a bad day here, but we might get some rain later. I'm ok either way though, as I've got a spray booth that's extracted to this "outside" of which you speak

[Vally G]

Hi Mike,

I thin it 1:1 with Mr Color Levelling Thinner.

Kind regards,

Adam

[Mike]

Ahah, thanks Adam - and I guess it then sprays on just like a coat of Klear? Wonder if I could taint it with a colour to make progress more easily visible?

[Vally G]

I don't know about adding color, Mike. I just stick my fingers all over it while its fresh to see if I missed any spots.

[Mike]

I might put a dot of white or summit in my first batch and see how that goes. Does it dry quickly?

[Vally G]

Yes, it does.

[Nigel Heath]

Assuming you have not already sprayed it on, I would use a clear enamel to tint it rather than paint as they are more like a dye rather than a paint, which are coloured in the main by finely divided particles of solid pigment. If you get what I mean.

[solowing666]

Hi, sorry to revive old thread.

 

Do you guys strictly spray it on metals, or can you spray it on metal parts already attached to plastics?

Does it stick to plastic as good as their regular primer?

 

Thanks a lot

[Matt_]

I would test it on something first. Specialist metal primer is usually an etch primer that contains acid which reacts with the metal to bond the primer to the surface.

[rayprit]

I personally brush it on - or use it as a dip!  I have decanted the primer into a larger bottle(empty clean Large Tamiya paint jar I think - but could be wrong)...……….as metal parts need priming, like AFV bins, mudguards, figures, etc, etc, I drop them into the jar, fish them out with tweezers and hang out to allow surplus to run off and dry, had the bottle about 10 years now...…...found out all I needed to know from youtube, as, has been pointed out - no Instructions,  check out the various videos here:-

 

 

 

[bmwh548]

Bringing this topic back: has anyone used it over diecast parts? I airbrushed some about a week ago and it's still "tacky". I thinned it about 50-50 with Leveling Thinner. When I got the bottle about a month ago I remember brushing some over a diecast part to test it and it was bone dry after an hour. Anyone else experienced this issue?

[rayprit]

5 hours ago, bmwh548 said:

Bringing this topic back: has anyone used it over diecast parts? I airbrushed some about a week ago and it's still "tacky". I thinned it about 50-50 with Leveling Thinner. When I got the bottle about a month ago I remember brushing some over a diecast part to test it and it was bone dry after an hour. Anyone else experienced this issue?

I used it not 10 minutes ago on a Dinky Toys military vehicle, wheel hubs and dinky figures and they are already dry...………...been using it for 10 plus years, also -  within the last 24 hours, used it on etched parts for KFS 1/24 Ferret, that's already dry.  I never airbrush the stuff as so much disappears into the atmosphere, tend to dip it or brush it...……...sounds like the part your trying to do is contaminated...…... on a spare part you have try the brush and see what happens

[bmwh548]

Thanks @rayprit.

I sent Gunze an email last night and they were kind enough to answer a few hours later. I'll post some stuff here in case there's other people interested.

 

" this surface is sticky even after drying. This is to firmly bond the paint to be painted on it.

So, it is in the correct state that there is sticky even over time."

"The thinner to use is T106 is the best.

The dilution ratio should be about 1: 1."