Mike Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 Any tips or tricks for using this through an airbrush? The instructions are all in Japanese, so I'm struggling! My first inclination is to just load it into my airbrush and squirt some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SaintsPhil Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 Sounds like a reasonable approach, if it shoots candy floss add some Mr Thinners! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 Do you mean the stuff in the bottle or aerosol? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted May 15, 2014 Author Share Posted May 15, 2014 The bottle. Looks like water, smells like nail varnish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 If its as thin as water I can't see any reason not to have a go as is. Maybe open a window or do outside as it is a lovely day Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted May 15, 2014 Author Share Posted May 15, 2014 It's not a bad day here, but we might get some rain later. I'm ok either way though, as I've got a spray booth that's extracted to this "outside" of which you speak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vally G Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 Hi Mike, I thin it 1:1 with Mr Color Levelling Thinner. Kind regards, Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted May 15, 2014 Author Share Posted May 15, 2014 Ahah, thanks Adam - and I guess it then sprays on just like a coat of Klear? Wonder if I could taint it with a colour to make progress more easily visible? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vally G Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 I don't know about adding color, Mike. I just stick my fingers all over it while its fresh to see if I missed any spots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted May 15, 2014 Author Share Posted May 15, 2014 I might put a dot of white or summit in my first batch and see how that goes. Does it dry quickly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vally G Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 Yes, it does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 Assuming you have not already sprayed it on, I would use a clear enamel to tint it rather than paint as they are more like a dye rather than a paint, which are coloured in the main by finely divided particles of solid pigment. If you get what I mean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solowing666 Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 Hi, sorry to revive old thread. Do you guys strictly spray it on metals, or can you spray it on metal parts already attached to plastics? Does it stick to plastic as good as their regular primer? Thanks a lot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_ Posted July 30, 2018 Share Posted July 30, 2018 I would test it on something first. Specialist metal primer is usually an etch primer that contains acid which reacts with the metal to bond the primer to the surface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayprit Posted July 30, 2018 Share Posted July 30, 2018 I personally brush it on - or use it as a dip! I have decanted the primer into a larger bottle(empty clean Large Tamiya paint jar I think - but could be wrong)...……….as metal parts need priming, like AFV bins, mudguards, figures, etc, etc, I drop them into the jar, fish them out with tweezers and hang out to allow surplus to run off and dry, had the bottle about 10 years now...…...found out all I needed to know from youtube, as, has been pointed out - no Instructions, check out the various videos here:- 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwh548 Posted September 13, 2018 Share Posted September 13, 2018 Bringing this topic back: has anyone used it over diecast parts? I airbrushed some about a week ago and it's still "tacky". I thinned it about 50-50 with Leveling Thinner. When I got the bottle about a month ago I remember brushing some over a diecast part to test it and it was bone dry after an hour. Anyone else experienced this issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayprit Posted September 13, 2018 Share Posted September 13, 2018 5 hours ago, bmwh548 said: Bringing this topic back: has anyone used it over diecast parts? I airbrushed some about a week ago and it's still "tacky". I thinned it about 50-50 with Leveling Thinner. When I got the bottle about a month ago I remember brushing some over a diecast part to test it and it was bone dry after an hour. Anyone else experienced this issue? I used it not 10 minutes ago on a Dinky Toys military vehicle, wheel hubs and dinky figures and they are already dry...………...been using it for 10 plus years, also - within the last 24 hours, used it on etched parts for KFS 1/24 Ferret, that's already dry. I never airbrush the stuff as so much disappears into the atmosphere, tend to dip it or brush it...……...sounds like the part your trying to do is contaminated...…... on a spare part you have try the brush and see what happens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwh548 Posted September 14, 2018 Share Posted September 14, 2018 Thanks @rayprit. I sent Gunze an email last night and they were kind enough to answer a few hours later. I'll post some stuff here in case there's other people interested. " this surface is sticky even after drying. This is to firmly bond the paint to be painted on it. So, it is in the correct state that there is sticky even over time." "The thinner to use is T106 is the best. The dilution ratio should be about 1: 1." 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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