rayprit

Yes your right, tis a plastic model, but at £50 plus and not quite right bit of a hard pill to swallow. Thats why I stated earlier, give it a miss and save your money, buy another plastic model

Interesting read about Aeroclub Vulcan a lot of input from John Aero in it

Quote from John Aero posted in 2013...................The tooling is buried in the rockery of his last house!!! Gold Member 3.1k Gender:Male Location:UK Posted September 16, 2013 I had the last few Vulcans sitting on the shelves for well over a year and there were only 200 produced. I wonder how many were actually built. It was actually done as a joke. We were talking about what to follow the very successful Lightnings with a subject the big companies wouldn't touch and we laughingly said lets do a Vulcan. When we'd stopped to think about it Brian Fawcett and I put our heads together and we decided to take a leap of faith. The result was the kit which seems to have become a bit of a legend. The original price (£99.99) was in fact achieved by both Hannants and myself both accepting a lower profit margin and it should have been about £20.00 more. Speculators note, all the original moulds still exist despite being interned in a garden rockery at my old house and they are now at my studio at home and will remain so. I have no real interest in producing any more, unless someone copies it... I really think people are nuts to pay any more than £70 for a second hand one. John

Lot of money for a defective kit and a hell of a lot of time correcting(not perfectly)the faults with this kit, hang onto your money, I am sure Airfix may eventually bring one out and possibly cheaper

What I do and no idea where I got the idea from, as I am drilling with pin vice and its taking a long time due to a blunt drill or threads clogging up, periodically I remove drill from hole and lick the tip with mt tongue......you dont taste much as by the time it reaches your tongue most crud has fallen out but the tip is wet and go back to its job!!! possibly put down to idleness and reluctance to fetch water Update: broke 3.5 drill and carpet monster tried to devour 3 x 5.5 drills ****************** How to deny the carpet monster ANY drills??? I have a circular magnet (from a loud speaker I think)....I do what search and Rescue do? I run a search pattern with the magnet along the carpet.....left to right, then up and down......usually come up with more drills attached to magnet than I expected, but Carpet monster is really wound up about my magnet) Most Model Railway enthusiasts have spare magnets - put them to good use............I do magnet checks often as always without my knowledge knocking loose drills off work surface ***********************

2 sets of figures for this kit, as soon as they come into stock they sell out!!!! https://modellingplanet.com/en/valkyrie-miniature/873-135-d9r-bulldozer-crew-idf-2000-era-3-figures.html https://www.super-hobby.com/products/D9R-Bulldozer-Crew-set.html

Here we go Pete.............been out for years, mines been half built for about 5 years https://www.florymodels.org/meng-135-d9r-dozer 11 part video build by Phil @ Flory Models if you go to Youtube

Whatever Revell and ACE puts in there kits is wot rots, with the Tamiya Chevy, its the road wheels/Tyres Chieftain, its there wheel hubs, with ACE its the tyres on the Salamander, also had to replace Revell 1/35 uni-mog Tyres

Happened to me............as mentioned earlier, the LRDG Chevy, I bought 3..........and the tyres have all split apart, broken in half and fallen from vehicle....The chieftain tank has rubber grommet to hold the road wheels on, most of them perished, ACE 1/72 kits, I bought the 6X6 Salamander(12 months ago)- thats now a 3x6....3 of those fell off broken...........imagine anything rubber made by ACE will react the same.......ANY kit I buy now which has rubber tyres, I tend to replace asap

Not interested in building the Hastings, but very kind of you to consider other modellers...........I know there are a fair few kits out there of the hastings and many of those modellers I am sure will appreciate your generosity

does not the conversion start to become expensive? Cross kitting involves the cost of 2 kits just to make a perfect one and still sanding to get other parts right...........I am all for you doing it, because, once you have completed it - Airfix will have bought a true Vampire T11 out

Volume 3 is the one your after......chapter 3 Formation signs...........I find it ideal for formation signs(and variations).........World war 2 is covered, but I use it for British army formation signs after 1953 as we still had them then in far and Middle east

As mentioned earlier with the Glass Fibre brush..........be careful of the bristles/hairs..........you cannot see them, but you will note that they are there, wear rubber gloves when using it.........I only use it when I have to and "reluctantly" as a last resort.......if fingers are damp, the hairs get onto you skin and its like endless splinters...........or a rash......I generally only use it when building large brass kits where the solder has weeped out..............try not to use on one spot to long as it blunts detail and takes crispness away

For stable work, such as filing or heavy work the handle comes off and mine has a square base allowing it to be mounted in a bench vice, which comes in quite handy

If what you say could be true and they maybe doing it alongside there jobs, they cannot be good at there jobs? Failing to check there work throughout the stages seems to be the fault here, shoddy workmanship. As seems to happening on this subject I concur that this review has saved me money and lost them a sale

updates, builds and data found relating to this kit

Ideally drop the hook? That kit is a tail sitter? If you gauge your weight wrong your a/c will tail sit, dropping the hook means it has a strong chance of preventing this and you end up with 3 wheels on the deck.........................all my Gannets have dropped hooks and works brilliantly

He is a brilliant builder, Makes you wonder what he will come up with next, his tips and DIY especially how to make decals are a joy to behold

For many helpful tutorials you cannot go wrong with the many videos by Paul Budzek; a member of this site, his canopy's is just one of 100s he has produced

I remember the time when the best option was to buy from China as popular kits of the time were 25%-50% cheaper than UK kits even with postage, the only problem I remember was the time it took in shipping? 4-6 weeks....but that market has long gone and there prices are catching up with UK

I have been modelling for years and constantly have to keep buying new drills......only break .5 and below - all the time(at least 30 years plus). I have tried all makes of drills, diamond, etc, you mention it, I have used/tried it......anything below .5 is going to eventually break, if it doesnt, it either goes blunt or bent........impossible to see the tips to resharpen, even purchased jewelry drills.....tried everything. You just have to accept, those small drills have a limited shelf life........I just write off to various Jewelry shops and buy bulk drills.....10 x .5 - 10 x .4 - 10 x .3................have many duplicates now of the sizes that do not break......being so fine, they are a welcome prize for the carpet monster......I have a special mains miniature vacu-cleaner, just to hoover the carpet about once per month. Theres no way around this problem, accept you will loose fine drills and buy in a bulk supply

Heres an article of the rotordyne in flight from above...................may help your plans - Four views of the wing https://www.redbackaviation.com/fairey-rotodyne-rotorcraft/

Sorry Neal, but unless your happy with it that mesh is completely wrong??? That hole was open to the elements..................if you check the video I sent to you, when Greg compares the 2 x Rotordyne kits alongside each other, the Revell offering is more closer to the real thing than Airfix..................just to the rear of the intake hole is a bulge(I suspect its there to deflect and block air and to force it into the hole to the Rotor tip jets)...........check out the video and stop it at 1:14, he actually rubs his thumb across the part missing from Airfix kit.........you will see what it may look like and decide which way you want to go

Have you checked past forums on this same subject on this site? Have you done a search? Many other sites also https://www.key.aero/forum/historic-aviation/499-raf-serial-numbers

You may find this helpful in your build https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNH1HK4ezzs