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rayprit

Gold Member
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Everything posted by rayprit

  1. Sorry Steve, counted the number above..... But I am sure you will soon reach said number
  2. 11,000 posts Steve and still sticking parts to yourself with superglue...……..that shows extreme skill, how do you model with all your fingers stuck together...………..Happy modelling
  3. if one perseveres with the kit, they do turn out a superb model, its just that its extremely hard work. When they first bought the Conqueror out, years before the Dragon or amusing hobby, I remember the storage basket on the back of the turret was so brittle it just fell to pieces and I had to make a copy from what parts I could from correct gauge brass wire, tracks were aweful………….Forgot I had made the Conq until I checked on here for Accurate Armour and I did put the build up, but that was years ago and the pictures have gone since that photo host demanded money for the privilege of storing phots...………..Bish on britmodeller this week put a build of his Northern Ireland Snatch land Rover and he mentions a little trouble he had building the chassis......heres bishes build:
  4. Accurate Armour is very good, I have many of there kits, from when they used white metal, right through to there 100% resin.....worst thing they did was stop the white metal, but I suppose its down to economy. They have lots and lots of small parts which you WILL break, these parts would have been white metal at one time...….I built the Chieftain Bridge layer with its bridge, Antar Tank Transporter and the last was the Scammell explorer Breakdown, I think I have 6 ferrets and a Saladin. just about broke a fair bit of the fragile parts....lot of warpage, so be prepared to use really hot water to straighten parts out...….the chassis for the Bedford RL was buckled beyond belief, as was the cab...……...I wrote to derek mentioned how warped it was and he sent a replacement straight away, after sales service is superb. Resin is the medium to us with baking soda...……..solves a lot of problems on big parts. I get my super glue on a card, 7 tubes from poundland and keep them in the fridge, but in places had to use 2 part epoxy. Copied a lot of parts as they were so brittle in to a resin mold and made white metal castings from them. Always use Halfords grey primer...………….ring Derek and ask if you can pick up, his number can be found easily enough. I am currently building KFS 1/24 Stalwart and Ferret.....used 10 tubes of superglue so far,Halford primer on those also, I imagine the kit you will pick up will have broken parts in them and slight warpage, don't be surprised as its normal...……………...good luck with your build
  5. Nicely done, I love the camouflaged soldier, superbly carried out, I was out there on the Shankill/Crumlin Road when our uniforms were just green combats, American Mk1 flak vest, normal tin hat with a plastic visor on it...……..brings back a lot of memories. Having built a fair few of AA kits I know how difficult they can be. The build is a credit to you
  6. Heres what I do, its available online: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qj5Te8EqMHM
  7. Do as I do,....use wire...……….drill a hole in the main body slot, drill a hole in the part your fitting , insert wire then its a secure push fit, before adding to location, a drop of superglue and it should be ok, do it all the while with anything, mainly resin...…...
  8. Heres a few wrapped up in the green cling film!!!!!!!!! Click on image to enlarge...……..you can see the different tones of film https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=boeing+737+max+railway+siding&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiVqvSMv9znAhW7WxUIHa3UDIcQ_AUoAXoECAwQAw&biw=1920&bih=967
  9. Anytime your not sure of anything ALWAYS use youtube FIRST...……..loads and loads of videos on there SHOWING you on a 1 to 1 basis how to do chipping. Far better than asking somebody to explain in words how to do it...…………….soon becomes confusing trying to fathom out the words...………..YouTube is the number 1 visual teacher...………….heres one of many tuturials: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7CNFdEZnQN8 And loads more: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=hairspray+chipping
  10. rayprit

    Identify this Plane!

    I think that your spot on...…………..2 x tyres/wheels lie on the railway line and if you look between the fin and cockpit, you can just see the edge of the framing for the canopy
  11. That's called nostalgia, its expensive...…...last bit of nostalgia I bought was about £60 and called Cold War Shield Volume Three by the late Roger Lindsay...…...have the complete set, I don't need them, but, everything about them relates to my involvement with the forces and its nostalgia, the one thing I would never do, is write in margins or underline any text, my books are not Ian Allen loco/BRS spotter books, if I need to make notes, I use "post it" notes and write on them instead all my books have transparent covers on them, having worked in a library, I know how to make book covers. By all means, buy as many books as you want, but relevant to you - nostalgia
  12. To be honest, with the internet the way it is today, I would say that you don't need any books!!!!! Years ago, the internet did not exist and we relied heavily on reference material, books, magazines etc, etc. It can now all be found on YouTube and searching the internet and of course this modelling(others are available)site. I have hundreds of books but found in the past few years I have not looked at many of them at all, plenty of dust on them. Currently building an Airfix Vulcan, I bought the Warpaint book, referenced builds on Britmodeller and YouTube and found that I didn't look at the Warpaint book(Plan came in handy), didn't need it. I make a folder on my computer, lets say titled it Vulcan and searched the internet, everything I needed went into that folder, drawings, videos, pictures, you name it, its in there. When the build is finished, I will delete it as I wont be making another Vulcan. Did a similar search for a 1/24 Stalwart I built, I have about 4 -5 books on the Stalwart. Never referred to any of them, relied entirely on the internet, various builds and the CD that came with the kit. I do buy books, but more for nostalgia than anything else...……..nostalgia can be an expensive hobby. Latest kit I bought, Airfix Hunter F4 and the aerocraft T7 conversion...…...Already builds are appearing on the internet of this conversion being built and all details put into a folder on my computer, pending my build of this kit...….. I shall be buying no books on this aircraft, the internet is awash with reference details of history of the Hunter and this site is also slowly starting to buzz around this kit. You only have to put a question on this site about anything your not sure of(anything) and you will eventually end up with about 2 pages of response and advice. You cannot go wrong. Plenty of reference out in the World Wide web. By all means buy a book, but, only as fellow members have warned, stick to a theme, focus on an era, try not to get distracted(I have, many times)ideally stick to a scale
  13. What I used to do, when swapmeets and shows were in abundance, could go to 2 in one day, now they are not so prolific …….I used to go to W H Smiths and read the classified at the back of the various hobby mags...……...model aircraft/Railways/Diecast...………..I stopped buying magazines years ago when topics tended to repeat themselves, duplicated by other mags and the print got smaller. With the internet now, shows and meets are easier to find
  14. I think the site your looking for would be this one, just put in your postcode and mileage your prepared to travel to a swapmeet. https://www.ukmodelshops.co.uk/events/swapmeets
  15. I found the same info - even upto the point that the RAF lent 5 Phantoms to 767 sqdn to help out with the training
  16. Adrian, the author of this Warpaint did mention on this very site back in October that he would be releasing this at SMW Telford last year - 2019. Here are some reviews of it from that post:-
  17. On my Vulcan I just dribbled superglue into the cracks until the glue came level with both sides of the plastic, then dropped Talcum powder onto it...………..made it hard immediately and after a minute or so sanded it down
  18. If we search the Britmodeller database, we have one of many topics of this often repeated subject...……...heres just one of many :
  19. I used to use this stuff(used by watch makers for gluing glass back on watches)but, stopped using it as it gets so stringy and became annoying, by the time you move the pin or cocktail stick to required part...……….a web like piece of string had developed, so, changed to PVA, ended up throwing the hypo away...………...
  20. I leave them on the card and remove them as I need them...……….I have recently just rescribed an airfix Vulcan and due to a lot of mistakes and filling of holes or sink marks on the intake splitter plates and another kit, I managed to use a whole tube over the course of 3 weeks. I tend to use superglue as my one and only filler now, gave up on other well known putties...………….hence the tubes are ideal I do keep my 2 part epoxy in a jar in the fridge, but only because it keeps the tubes upright, otherwise, lying down one of the catalysts leaks and tends to lie in gooey mess, making the tube awkward to pick up
  21. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57vVZv8-vKQ
  22. Do as I do? 7 tubes of superglue from Poundland, all on one card...………….for a £1.....been using them for years and no bad results yet...………...once a tube is opened, as long as you place the cap back on and place in the fridge, it lasts indefinitely. Currently have different speeds in the fridge, mainly zap a gap, thick, medium and thin...…………..had them in there for about 4, years, possibly longer, don't use them so much now as tend to rely on the Poundland ones...…...if one goes off, which hasn't happened yet, go for another from the fridge
  23. I have just rescribed a resin kit and the cutter went off track a number of times...…………...same as everyone here, I use superglue...……….once I correct or fill in a wavy line or poor cut I move onto another part of the kit until its gone off, then rescribe, if, I am in a rush then I mix Talcum power, or Baking soda, or Bicarb soda...….all work well, tips given to me years ago by Alan Hall author, historian and founder of Scale Aircraft Modelling in 1978 7 tubes of Superglue on a card from Poundland...…….been using them for years and nothing bad to report about results afterwards. Keep your superglue in a fridge otherwise it goes off pretty quick...………..I have some superglues that have been in the fridge for years, thick, thin and medium, but tend to rely more on the Poundlands superglue
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