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Everything posted by bmwh548

  1. Green Stuff World decal paper. Only used the ones designed for inkjet, they both behave beautifully.
  2. Get a quick release and that problem will go away. If you buy some generic ones get 2 or 3. Sometimes you have bad luck and they leak like crazy. The only "pretty way" of emptying the tank is to keep the trigger pressed until the tank is depleted.
  3. bmwh548

    Flat Coats

    Mr. Color GX113.
  4. Nothing wrong with car polishing compounds, just make sure you pick swirl free ones. Also the cloth is just as important as the compound.
  5. You can identify the needles and nozzles by the markings on them (you can find the marking system on their website). The caps are only identifiable by the hole diameter (you can't really get them wrong). IF you matched them correctly you might want to check the O Rings on the caps. If the rubber is flattened or simply smaller in diameter the cap will screw in more than it's supposed to and the nozzle might block the airflow. But the odds are kinda small, my money is on a mismatch between the parts.
  6. Air valve issue. Take it apart, clean it, check for obvious damage to the o-rings.
  7. I'm not a fan of their new pressure control valve. I find that the range is way too small for my liking. The old one was far better in that regard. I guess the new design has less things to go wrong on it, but I'll stick to the old one.
  8. One of the distinctive characteristics of the CR Plus is that it has triple chrome plating to make it less prone to "wear and tear". Like @nheather said the CR Plus valve is most likely extra plated so it matches the body of the airbrush.
  9. The CR Plus has the extra chrome on it.
  10. I've got some similar stuff from the cosmetic aisles, incredibly effective for very little money. Some of them work well with wet buffing too.
  11. I did a trial with my Ultra and an Infinity tail and it worked just fine. But given the price of an Infinity tail...maybe just save up and get the entire airbrush?
  12. I think it's just a part number, not the grit size. Even if it would be an imperial versus metric situation the numbers don't add up. Shoot the seller a message, maybe they can clear it up.
  13. Gunze bottles all their thinners (including what seems to be lacquer thinner) in plastic containers. However it's most likely plastic designed to handle that type of solvent. Vallejo's bottles are designed for water based paints. Not trying to start an argument or anything like that, just my two cents.
  14. I would imagine the solvent in Tamiya (alcohol based or something like that) is far more volatile and might escape through the plastic that makes up the dropper style bottle (and it's cap).
  15. PVA glue with the advice to apply a uniform layer of it. If it doesn't get complete "coverage" you'll see the edges when you look carefully.
  16. I'm going to go out on a limb and say you might have a problem with the main airbrush body. Maybe the front end got damaged and the nozzle isn't seating properly in there. There was a topic with another Iwata (I think it was actually an Eclipse) that eventually got sent out for servicing and they concluded that the body had an unrepairable fault.
  17. It may sound silly, but did you get the same size nozzle? If I remember correctly Iwata will equip the airbrush with a 0.3 (or 0.35), but they will sell you a 0.5 nozzle. If you put a 0.5 nozzle with the 0.35 cap you'll get some air coming out, but not enough to draw paint from the cup.
  18. Grab some scrap resin and see what the heat does to it. Maybe you can dip it in some room temperature water as soon as the soldering is done, but practice it first, it could warp from the jumps in temperature.
  19. There's three nuts on the back of the airbrush (for most models). There's the needle/trigger travel limiter nut (located on the very end of the tail of the airbrush). With that one fully tightened the needle can't go anywhere so no paint can come out. The needle chuck has two nuts. 1. On the very end of the needle chuck there is a nut that secures the needle inside the mechanism. That needs to be fully tightened (not with tools, your fingers should suffice). If that one is loose the trigger will move freely, but the needle will stay put inside the nozzle, sealing it, no paint comes out. 2. At the end of the airbrush's body there's a second nut securing the needle chuck to the aforementioned body. This one can be fully tightened and it will not affect the needle movement in any way. It (on a lot of airbrushes) also plays the role of an adjustment to the spring inside the mechanism. If it's fully tightened the spring is more compressed and there's more resistance on the trigger's movement towards the rear but the trigger becomes snappier (which is more to my liking). If it's loose the trigger movement is much more "fluid", but I personally don't enjoy it, it feels like there's less feedback to my finger. If you are tightening the correct nut (the one I numbered 1) and the trigger isn't moving it could be that the needle is "cemented" on the inner PTFE seal (due to dried up paint). Depending on the airbrush you could remove the needle chuck entirely and twist and pull the needle (towards the back) with some pliers or you could remove (and this is normally better) the front end of the airbrush and tap the needle tail until it starts to come out through the front. A few drops of the appropriate thinner in the seal area should help free up the needle.
  20. bmwh548


    I've had that happen to me, yes.
  21. I love the Mr. Color Clearcoats for airbrushing. The GX range for flat and gloss, the C one for semi gloss because they don't make one in the GX range.
  22. Don't take this the wrong way, but I hate you! I can't brush an area larger than 2/2cm without getting brush marks and you do that like it's child's play. Chapeau bas!
  23. Nice idea with the tire "dust"! Thank you!
  24. Not to make you feel bad, but I've never cracked a nozzle. It flares up in time, but that's normal wear. How are you doing the needle insertion?
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