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  1. Have just started new scratchbuild and thought it'd be good to share the build here. Kits of civilian scale models are pretty thin on the ground - compared to the crop of Spitfires, P51's, 109's etc. One that seems to have been quite overlooked is the Piper PA-24 Comanche. Correct me if I'm wrong - but I've only seen some larger scale flying model kits - and nothing in more conventional (or even unconventional) scales. There's quite a few Cherokee kits (which is more 'family sedan') but the Comanche (a bit of a 'sports car') seems to have missed out? The inspiration for this is that it was one of my fathers favourite aircraft when he was in his early flying years - at the Royal Aero Club of NSW based at Bankstown in Sydney, Australia. Here's a picture of the subject model here - taken circa 1963 on a 'field trip' to Canberra. This is a VH-RSX PA-24-180 - in a rather tasty colour scheme. The other one I am torn with doing is this PA-24-250 VH-SME operated by the Snowy Mountains Hydro-Electric Authority - who had quite a fleet of aircraft to support that big project. This one here - a Greg Banfield photo from Bankstown 1963 courtesy of the Ed Coates collection. Including tip tanks. http://www.edcoatescollection.com/ac1/austmz/VH-SME2.jpg To save making a decision - my current plan is to build TWO models at the same time. One of VH-RSX and one of VH-SME. Twin Comanches? Anyway - onto the model. I've now scratchbuilt quite a few of this style of aircraft and have a fairly standardised technique for dealing with the glasshouse and a full interior. These will be in 1/48 to fit in with my 'collection'. I found a set of plans from Aeromodeller 1961 - which whilst targeted at a flying scale model include some very handy fuse cross-sections and 'look' to be on scale vs compromised by the 'flying scale' requirements. There's also another set of plans in Air Progress - Winter 1962-63 which are rather nice but without the cross sections. There's some subtle differences between the plans - which I'd put down to artistic license. And happy to work with both of these as a basis. First up - here's the 'buck' for vacforming of the fuselage. Basically a skeleton of 1mm styrene built out with the cross sections from the plans (and all a little undersize to allow for the thickness of the vacformed plastic... That looks like the pic below after it is filled and sanded, filled and sanded, filled and sanded with 2-pack car putty (buy it from the automotive supplies stores - tell them you want to fix a dent in your car!). This is not quite ready for vacforming - a little bit of finessing still required to get the shape right, For vacforming, I will mould the underside in white styrene - and the topside in probably PETG (first use of this, wish me luck). The buck will be cut just in front of the windscreen after moulding the underside - this will give me a sharp clean edge to the front canopy, and ditto the top of the engine cowling. [The photo looks as if it's back to front - it's just the plan printed in reverse so I can get both a LH and RH view of the fuse (& yes I know the door is only on one side)]. So with some more putty on the buck and set aside to dry - time to turn attention to the wings. Remember I'm tag-teaming two models. The wing shape has been cut from 1mm styrene for bottom skin and 0.75mm for the top skin. Trailing edges have been sanding down wafer thin on the inside surface (using 180 grit then 400 grit wet and dry sandpaper. very wet). then a bit of marking out of the wing spar location and the wheel wells. Next steps are fabricating the wheel wells (gosh they're a long way aft!). Also finish off the buck to the point I can vacform. Hope you enjoy the build!
  2. Hi, people. This is my first work that I will post as I make the model, one U-boat Type VII C, in 1/100 scale. The others modelings that I have int he forun are ready, and IO go posting the pictures that I have in computer. This model has been starting now. Its an old dream, and now I realize him! . However my wife call me mad, I go on! In Brazil we say "I will not teach the priest to pray", when we know that the other people knows what is being talked about. (I hope that is clear... ). So I dont explain about the u-boat. Lets go to the modeling. First I print a drawing in the correct scale. The model will be 67 cm lenght. I cut the deck in cardboard - three pieces was glued each other to give strength. ) Later, I make a reinforcement to the deck, with a thick cardboard (in Brazil we call him "parana paper"). The piece is glued in "V" and attached with a thin cardboard, like the picture. The reinforcement is glued under the deck. Others reinforcements was made and glued. You can see that the line deck isnt straight. The bow is higher than the stern. To attache the hull pieces I make lots of cardboard reinforcements. Them will glued in the border of under surface deck. The reinforcements was glued, but the photo is bad. But we have a comparison with my keyboard and mouse. Its so big! Now I make the strutural reinforcement - in portuguese we call him ship caves; I dont know the real name in english. With the figure I hope that you will understand. I build the pieces with foam. The pieces in correct local. In this photo we can see better the cardboard reinforcements. Everuthing ready to start the hull. I never build anything so big. Realy its big! I hope my wife doesnt make me choose between the marriage or the model!
  3. These days I mainly specialise in inter-war aircraft models in 1/72 scale, but within that rather large field my favourite area is the 1926-41 'Golden Age' of U.S. Civil Aviation. This is a largely untapped field for models (and likely to remain so), which neatly combines my twin passions of scratchbuilding and historical research. Lloyd Stearman was one of America's foremost designers of civil biplanes. Having been the Chief Designer of both Swallow and Travel Air, in 1927 he left to start his own company, initially in California, but soon relocated back to Wichita, Kansas, then known as the 'Air Capital', for its concentration of civil aircraft manufacturers and suppliers. The fourth successful design of his own company was the Model 4 Junior Speedmail (an earlier model was the larger 'Speedmail'), which he described as 'the finest airplane I ever designed'. Intended primarily as a mailplane, only around half the 40 constructed actually saw service in that role (with American Airways and Canadian Airways). The rest were bought for corporate use, or by wealthy private owners. Top of the range were the 4E models with 400+hp P&W Wasp power and finest of all were the 3 specials constructed for Standard Oil of California and used by their flying salesmen up and down the west coast, 1930-35. Surprisingly, around a dozen of the Stearman 4s built survive, including 2 of the 3 SOCal planes. Latterly, I've been building most of my models in pairs, which I've found to be a more efficient and fun way of increasing my modest output. So here are my models of a Stearman 4EM mailplane of Canadian Airways (Eastern Lines), Montreal, 1931 and Stearman 4E Special 'Stanavo 4' of Standard Oil of California, San Francisco,1930. Models are 100% scratchbuilt and were completed in 2017. 4EM mailplane : 4E Special : WIP Parts spread: Cockpit parts: One of my favourite 1930s biplanes..........
  4. I have modelled on and off for probably the last 40 years, predominantly in 1/72 scale. Aircraft and vehicles mainly. During more recent years modelling has been limited to basic assembly and conversion work and scenery building for table top war-gaming. After a hiatus for a couple of years I have decided to get back into model making purely for the pleasure of the build. I did have a few helicopter kits I was going to tackle but wanted something to really motivate me. In a previous life I spent about 10 years as Radar Plot/Anti submarine aircraft controller rating in the RNZN, serving on 3 Leander class frigates and the research vessel HMNZS Tui. It has always been an intended 'one day' project to build my old ships. Never one to do things by half I decided to go big or go home and to tackle the first one HMNZS Waikato in 1/72 scale. The Mighty "Y" was not my first posting but I have fond memories of my time on board and decided to start with one of the two gun Leanders first. The other was HMNZS Canterbury. My third Leander was HMNZS Southland (ex HMS Dido) an Ikara Leander. I served on her in the late 80's and will aim the build around this time. When she still carried a whaler before the Rib was fitted. I have been doing what research I can and building a library of photos of both her and when I can't find specifics at least detail references of other Leanders. Stumbled across this picture this morning. I remember this photo being taken, it was for Navy News or something similar and idea was to show the different parts of ship that made up a crew of a Leander. I am not 100% positive (it was 30+ years ago) but if memory serves correctly I am one of the ratings in Dayglo wet weather gear on the focsle
  5. Hello gents, Off on a new project. It has a few build requirements: It will try and stick with the spirit of the concept as it moves along (this will make more sense as you keep reading); It will rely to the greatest extent possible on kits from the stash! No new kits! maybe new materials, glue and paint; and, well guys, it might be a bit odd when it's done. So, on we go. The following few character images show the basic concept of this project - in three graphic chapters: ahhh, "Misty watercolor memories.....Of the way we were" (B Streisand) uhhh???? what the heck??? "Because something is happening, But ya' don't know what it is, Do you, Mister Jones?".....(B. Dylan) btw groovy graphic assembled in...PowerPoint! used their Design Ideas tool!) (Note the center image - looks like a tracked lowboy with a shelter atop) And, our story - a guy reminiscing on being sent out to the south station - for some time, and what it was like out there. About this graphic....yeah - I tried... it's made with PowerPoint and Photoscape X - not exactly Photoshop! This will require a leap of faith by all involved - including me! I saw a project in the Sci Fi section where someone is building a pretty cool Ian McQue concept air ship. I really like McQue's work, and you can see some of it above. I'm mostly a ground ship kind of guy though, so I did several searches of his work and found a few ground based vessels that move on tracks, and some peculiar buildings. So, for this project we have an OshKosh Global HET A1 (the high mobility version of the M1070) and trailer, converted to a halftrack, camped out for a while at south station. At this point, well, I can't and won't guarantee the dio will look "just like" this - but, it is planned to "feel" like it when we're done. I just don't know as of right now where this will go, but, I've already jumped right in, starting with the truck: This is the OshKosh M1070 Heavy Equipment Transporter (HET), an 8x8 truck (Hobby Boss kit). I have gone ahead and begun converting it into the Global HET A1, a 6x6 version (upper pics). There are similarities and many differences between the two - and above you can see the big difference is in the rear axle configuration. I like the look of the Global HET - If I just had some of those fat, high flotation tires!! This required some head scratching to design and build. So, lots of changes - the chassis is shortened in the rear and will be stretched in the front, all the tabs, bolts, rivets cut off and as you can see above, some carefully cut off and reused, and suspension attached. I made operable, and not just adjustable steering. It also needs an all new hood/bonnet, which will be a difficult task - the Global HET has a less angular design than the M1070, which has a variety of odd shapes and compound curves.....perfect. And: As this project is in the realm of sci fi, a half track is simply required!! Hence the reason for making this the 6x6 version - the two drive axles now serve as power for two final drive sprockets (off-set by planetary gear transfer cases), on independent bogeys! I don't want this to look like a simple toy - it needs to at least demonstrate convincing realism. Therefore, into the realm of mechanized agriculture and some homework! It turns out lots of tractors are both four wheel drive (which this would in effect be as there are two drive axles) and use tracks - very interesting stuff - and good and, well, strange looking! I discovered this can be done in two broad ways. On the upper left, you can see a fixed rail track system, which is essentially bolted to the tractor via a pivoting hardbar and final drives. Nice! except, my fancy HET has air ride suspension, and the hardbar set up would prohibit flex, or result in heavy torque twist. Or, look for a way to keep the "wheels/bogeys" independent. So, I set up a system with two independent bogeys, connected via tensioner at each axle - like on the rail of a tracked dozer! as shown in the sketch, and in concept on the two studies above. As this is being built only using parts from the stash, I have a couple of the Oroshi Bradley M3A3 kits - so, I'm using those idlers/roadwheels, final drives and metal tracks. Among the challenges here is using the parts I have in a way that appears to function as sold. As such, the final drives need to be elevated above the rollers, so both can rotate and allow a track to convincingly be drawn over them. This required several visual tests before I settled on an approach: In brief, the bogeys are symmetrical left/right, but asymmetrical front/rear. The bogey "carrier" is .040" styrene. You can see, the road wheels are spaced equidistantly from the axle centerline (me guessing that's a good way to evenly distribute weight), while the final drives are off-set for clearance. The final drives are set up using the Orochi parts as intended, with some cutting. The idlers and road wheels attached via a remarkably tedious process of cutting and assembling telescoping lengths of alu tubing....good fun. And above, dry fit - not exactly an "instant" half track! If you look carefully, you can see a tensioner and shock absorber mounted between the bogeys, which will allow them to rotate independently of one another and up and down with the axle, while the final drives stay in fixed position, attached to the axle. And - that's where we are. Next will be addressing the front body work. I'm not looking forward to this task! Then, onto the HET trailer (which is very big even in 1/35) and what ever sort of "shelter" for it. I have a remnant 1/32 scale box van that has some nice panels, and an ICM ZIL 131 emergency truck bed/shelter, which I plan to bash together into something appropriately mysterious and dieselpunkesque - we'll see! And of course, ground plane, buildings, debris and figures - a long way to go. Thanks for having a look - Cheers Nick
  6. Finally, I've got some time to start the post on my next scratch build, a 1:48th scale Denny SGB, actually S304 Grey Fox, IWM picture below, at 145ft, the model will be ~36 inches long in old money. Warning, I expect this build to take a year or so. This time I really will try to make everything (apart from the split-pin stanchions), but some complex components will be 3d printed, though to my own drawings. I'm also going to have a go at the propellers, printed in wax and then cast, may as well go for it... My aim is to produce full drawings, components and etchings so others could build the same model if they wish. I will document it all here, mistakes and all I have two professional plans, one available on line by G Stone in 1:48th scale and one from model shipwright no 87 (March 1994) But as I do with all major builds, I also contacted the maritime Museum in Greenwich (actually the old brass foundry in Woolwich) who have the archive of all naval vessels since the 18th century. They claim to have an example of every type that served in the navy and they have a number of drawings of SGB's. I chose three drawings of SGB303 (the sister of S304), which include the GA and the shell expansion, a vital piece of the puzzle for plated models. At 36 inches long, the model is too large for my block infill so I'm going to plank it on frames and then plate the outside with aluminium sheet to the shell expansion drawing, rivets included. Shell expansions show stuff other drawings omit, like the water intake and outlet for instance. A section of the drawing is shown below and on it you can see the inlet is rectangular and on the centre line, I've not seen that detail before. This section also shows the layout of the outlet with the doubler plate etc. In other parts of the drawing is it clear that the portholes on port and starboard where not in the same place, again, where else could you find that sort of detail? From a scan of the lines (actually from the model shipwright drawing which looks a higher quality piece of work) I prepared a cutting drawing of the keel and frames. The frames have been set back by 2mm to allow for the planking. The keel is 5mm ply but the stem and the docking keel will be made of brass, inset in the ply as the former is sharp and the latter much thinner than the ply (poor quality copy below I started yesterday by cutting out the keel and setting in the brass, seen below on a temporary building board to keep everything straight. Keeping hulls straight is a real challenge as the planking can frames can easily end up twisted (I know this from experience) so I make a lot of fuss at this stage, sometimes it pays off... The hull will have a large slot in the deck for the deck-house. I'm not going to build a working model, but this could easily be done and then the slot would allow access to the motors battery etc. For me is helps to keep the deck house separate until very late in the build, then is will just slot in The frames were printed and mounted to 3 mm ply for cutting out Much later today... More timber to keep things straight. I've had to slot the build board as the boat does not have an exposed keel apart from the small docking keel at the back. I'll be planking it upside down, more detail later. The platform at the back holds the alignment holes for the rudders, you can also see the holes for the prop shafts (5" dia) After much fettling, I glued it up, tape is holding everything straight (I have a phobia about straightness....) So, we're off and running, sheer strakes going in tomorrow
  7. Hello everyone… I’ve had a varied model-making year, covering weekend Airfix aircraft builds, a handful of 1/35 and 1/72 armour types, a bit of diorama and figure sculpting work and so on. The projects that I’ve enjoyed the most are the scratchbuilds though – the satisfaction of developing and improving new techniques has been the thing that’s really driven me more than anything. My current Miniart M3 Lee is a marvellous kit and I’ve been loving the detail, but I really feel the need to “scratch that itch” so I’m embarking on another armour scratchbuild. I hope to keep the M3 going at the same time, so my tardy progress on that shouldn’t be too badly affected. This time it’s the Pierce Arrow AA truck. This should be quite similar to the Wolseley armoured car I did a while back… …(in fact, later models of this AA truck were apparently based on the Wolseley truck as opposed to Pierce Arrow) but there are some different challenges this time. Firstly, this vehicle has spoked wheels as opposed to the covered ones of the armoured car, so there’s a fresh skill to tackle straight away. There’s also a fair bit more information that I’ve been able to find on-line. This is a double-edged sword of course; no two photos or drawings are the same, and there’s less excuse to omit interior detail. The fact that it’s partially open-topped comes into play for this as well of course. I (rather hurriedly, in my excitement) ordered some fresh plasticard and tube from ebay. Once it arrived I realised I’d bought 0.5mm glossy white card rather than the nice matt 0.75mm I’ve just discovered I’d used for my last two scratchbuilds, so I had to get another batch of the correct stuff. Here’s the basic ingredients (no the most thrilling of WIP photos I'm afraid): This vehicle isn’t covered by the Landships II card model collection, so I needed to draw up my own plans. Finding a pretty good 4-view colour drawing was a promising start, so this was loaded into CAD and scaled to match the wheelbase dimension I found on Wikipedia. From this, I traced over each panel and then stretched each as necessary to get face-on template views. The truck is pretty basic in construction with no funky angles, so this was easy enough to do. The template parts were then printed onto A4 paper and are now awaiting a can of spray mount before I start drilling for rivets and cutting them all out. This is what I’m aiming for – it looks pretty cool in this picture methinks… Massive gun, which I’m really looking forward to making. Here we go….!
  8. There appears to be a lot of interest at the moment in 1/200 scratchbuilt (or using 1/200 paper kits as a basis for scratchbuilding) vessels that are unlikely to be kitted, so I thought I would join in. Wandering into uncharted WIP territory here with a bit of lockdown madness, HMS Victorious really needs no introduction, but what the hell, she was the third of the Illustrious class fleet carriers, launched in 1939 and commissioned in 1941, she served everywhere, starting her wartime career chasing the Bismark, and ending it sweeping bits of kamikaze off her flightdeck, even becoming an unofficial member of the USN for a limited period as the USS Robin. Post war she was heavily modified, (a bit of an understatement there), and was recommissioned in1958 and finally scrapped in 1969. My father served on her during her 1961 “world cruise” as an Observer with 825 Squadron flying Whirlwinds (“never sure whether one was going to fly back, or swim back”), after which I was Christened in the ships bell on her return to Portsmouth, and so having been brought up with albums full of photographs of sampans and blackened Sea Vixens I have always had a fascination for the ship. I am sure I am not alone in playing with the venerable Airfix offering in the bath (not recently I must add) and although I have a couple in the stash I must confess the last time I built one I must have been about 12 and these days I find 1/600 a little small. I had a lot of fun with the ghastly Heller offering which required a great deal of scratch building, (and thank god for Peter Hall and his photoetch) to make something that resembled the ship at the start of her illustrious career (did you see what I did there !), but there was always a project in the back of my mind to model her in her 1961 guise in 1/350 my preferred scale these days. That was the plan anyway, until I spotted a paper kit of the mighty Vic in 1/200 by OREL, couldn’t resist the temptation, and an even more cunning plan started to take shape. Along with the kit I bought the associated photo etch and the laser cut frames, I assume that the anatomy of the ship book was used to develop the kit because it appears to be spot on to the drawings in it. The kit represents the configuration later than I want, in 1961 she still carried the original six 3 inch gun mountings, two of which were later replaced by storage for Buccaneer drop tanks, had lost the six barrelled Oerlikon mounting on the starboard side, and had not grown the extension outboard of the island to starboard,, though funnily enough the experimental bridle catcher (which was only carried through 1961) incorrectly features in the kit. Anyway the cunning plan did not feature paper bits anyway though I intended to use the laser cut structure as a basis, the cunning bit involved reinforcing the card framework by soaking it in superglue. Fast forward to now, it worked, the infused card has the consistency of thin plywood and is sandable, carvable and stable, the model will be waterline in a sea base so I have omitted the lowest level of the hull (makes life easier) to add additional stiffness I fabricated the hanger with fibre board. I scaled the AotS general arrangement drawings to 1/200 and from that cut the flight deck from 3mm styrene, the aft lift radii being squeezed in filler with a template, and the depression for the chock/roller aircraft allignment gear cut out and back filled with 2mm material. I set the flight deck up and levelled it with styrene shims and fixed it temporarily with two screws, the cable deck and quarterdeck will need to be finished before fixing it all permanently, I’m using the flightdeck as my datum, everything is measured off it in X,Y and Z planes, it seems to be working so far ! The fabrication of the docking and boat bays (she still had the port side one in 61) is my current task, though it is all very much “Blacksmithery” at the moment I'm looking forward to some proper modelmaking. Just to give an idea of the size of this beast, this is my other work in progress at the moment, the 1/350 Trumpy Dreadnought, somewhat dwarfed. This is where we are at the moment, as you can imagine this is not going to be a quick build, but all comments (even rude ones) and advice welcome ! Kindest regards to all from the Spanish viral apocalypse David
  9. Hi all, New month, new project. This has been rattling around in my head for a while and I think is sort of picking up on the stalled Gundam-wreck-in-desert thing I started a couple of years ago. I'm starting it now because I think it'll be quick, and it gives me some cutting and sticking to do as well as a break from painting and weathering. I got some board game pieces from Kickstarter last year (for Cthulhu Wars) and one of the freebies was an extra copy of most of the miniatures. One of them (the Bhole) looks rather like a sandworm, and I liked the idea of using it as one. It's moulded in some kind of horrible vinyl/resin/restic stuff which is a bit bendy, but the detail is fine. I started by hacking it off the moulded base (with a full-size hacksaw, no less!) and giving it a wash since I'm pretty sure it'll have been covered in mould release gunk at some point: (click for bigger) Modelling: It takes you to strange places. Open wide! I thought of just basing it up on its own, but I reckon a small diorama will be more interesting to photograph and should make it clearer what kind of worm it's supposed to be. So I started fiddling around with some Bandai add-on Gundam parts and some other spares to get the start of a spice harvester: The wheels are thrusters from the MS Marine set, each one needed the propeller cutting off and the four blocks paring off the "tread". I then sanded the blocks smooth and cut new grooves to join up the ends and match the existing grooves. I haven't added hubcaps yet but I suspect something from a tank will do. The left hand wheels are unmodified, the right ones are almost ready to use. I found some sprue which fitted them so I could get an idea of how it'd look: This is also made from some Gundam aqua backpack parts from the MS Marine set. It's not supposed to be a model of the David Lynch harvester, but should have some echoes of that design. The right hand side is the back and should have some storage tanks sticking out. The left is the front, I haven't decided how to do the harvest-ey bit yet, but I like the idea of the control cabin being up above like the Lynch model. The round holes are going to be hatches, with a little platform under/around them. It would be better if there was only one on each side so they might end up changing, not sure yet. Since I took these I've made up most of the chassis, with poseable leading/trailing suspension arms. But the camera battery ran out Will put it together for a mockup tomorrow. Cheers, Will
  10. I've been working on this one for a year or so and I'm starting to see the light at the end of tunnel on this essentially scratch build. The original kit superstructure wasn't terrible but had some clunky details (like gun houses, range finders, AA suite, funnels) and poorly represented areas ( around the bridge and forward funnel) that I wanted to change to be a little more prototypical of the actual ship, some thinking later and it was time to start from a blank slate of .5mm evergreen. I apologize about the very grainy first few photos those were taken on a very old phone. After the decision to replace the super structure came the acquisition of several different reference books and asking the museum itself for pictures of hard to see or under represented areas. Everything was build up out of .5mm styrene sheet and with careful down scaling of the drawings I started to have a superstructure. Here I have placed the basic superstructure onto the hull, still fairly spartan but it was thrilling to have it look like a battleship on the slip way To fill in the giant hole in the front where the armored citadel should be I carved the forward fire control tower and citadel from balsa as I didn't feel brave enough to use plastic. Splinter shield and platforms The very stern of the kit was rather blunt and I will be the first to admit that it was user error that blunted it, but, I fixed it. I had the old set of 3d printed gun houses in fine resin, these would be replaced by a latter dark grey set from Model Monkey The main battery barbettes were made by laminating plastic and putting it inside the lid of a TET brush which had a roughly similar diameter to what I needed. This was my first go at the 5inch 38 turret ring, I figured I could sand them down to shape, that was not a terribly good idea as it just ripped off the deck, there were just replaced with disks that are the proper size, 3D print funnels were sourced from Model Monkey. Probably the hardest parts to build and make were the bases for the amidships gun director towers, there were very few photos of this area I could find and resorted to communicating directly with the museum to get good references. Finally starting to look like a battleship, most of her AA that was added at a later date has yet to be manufactured. The break water had to bend in about 6 different ways, but I got there eventually. More Splinter shielding. The first set of 40mm gun tubs on either side of the superstructure were too large and were subsequently removed and remade. Bases for the catapults were put in place at this time. Tom's Model Works photo etch really enhanced the look of the fantail with the cats and aircraft crane. Boat handling cranes and flag bags, the cranes now have their booms. I just need to document it. This is as far as I have gotten, I'm at a point where I will need to start turning masts from brass and get the really fiddly bit made up and installed before paint work.
  11. Following on from my Build Thread here is the model on its shiny oak base. The vessel modelled is S-46, one of only 12 s-boats fitted with the 40mm Bofors (according to table 13 in Fock). The model is fully scratch built from plans obtained from Paul Stamm Modellbau in Saarbrücken, supplemented with other drawings from various publications and some excellent unpublished photographs provided by @Arjan for which I am very grateful The hull is solid wood, built up using balsa infills between ply frames, the superstructures are largely copper, supplemented with etch brass made by 4D to my drawings. Many of the other components are 3D resin printed also to my own drawings. It is painted using Vallejo paints from their Kriegsmarine set and weathered to look like its having a hard war. The following extract is from S-boot net describing how the boat was lost On 10.09.1943 the Red Army landed in the city of Novorossijsk. Six days later the town had to be evacuated. On 11.09.1943 Soviet ground attack aircraft attacked the boats of the 1. SFltl returning home. Not impressed by the defensive fire they pushed down to 10 m height and fired with onboard guns. On "S 46" all engines fell out, the torpedo in the port tube exploded and tore the forecastle off until the bridge. In spite of the ongoing attacks "S 49" went alongside and took over the partly severely wounded crew and two killed in action. The boat was then sunk with a torpedo. She is modelled as she was in 1942 serving with the 2nd flotilla based in the pens at Ijmuiden, as per the picture below. She is equipped for fast minelaying She is mounted on turned brass pillars on French polished solid oak. The name plate is from engraving studios, £12.50, good value and fast turnaround. The oak case is not ready yet, a couple of weeks away hopefully The papier mache canvas sides worked well this time. They sit slightly concave between the stanchions and have a nice level of weathering. The waterline is my own mix oily green weathering, very dilute Vallejo paint, stippled on and wiped off a number of times, resulting in a dark weathered line with a slight green hint The ensign is hand painted and soaked in weak PVA before drying in shape, the transfer was printed on my laser printer on transparent waterslide decal paper, the decks are canvas covered as per real practice View of the rear, note the slop bucket. I read somewhere that the crew had no head, they used a bucket and chucked it over the stern, had to include that detail. The mines are UMC mines, 3D printed with added wire detailing, the Bokors is made from 40 odd brass turned, etched and shaped pieces Midships and bridge detail, the lookout is there to show the help people understand the scale View from the air Comparison post coming later with my SGB Cheers and thanks for the support during the build Steve
  12. Hi folks, it's been a bit of a weird summer, so I hope you are all keeping well. Here is a beech and mahogany Bf109 G-6 in 1/48 scale. Took me quite a while to do this one, I started full of enthusiasm then quickly lost my way as I got the underside of the nose wrong. It languished on the table in a pile of sawdust and despair for a few months while I gathered the momentum to finish it. For a plane that looks like it was designed only with straight edges it was surprisingly hard to get it to look correct; the machine gun blisters were also a right pain to get symmetrical. Anyway, I'm glad I persevered as I think it came out OK in the end. Thanks for viewing, hope you like it Nick
  13. This was one of my Christmas presents and it’s a treasure trove of odd WWI designs including scale plans. I wanted it for details of the Sablatnig planes but there are several others that I intend to build starting with the Oertz. Having just finished one Quad, I thought why not do another. So this is my intended victim the Oertz W6 aka the flying schooner. I know the GB doesn’t start till the 20th but I thought I’d crack ahead as I have a lot to do and I’ll make sure I don’t break the 25% rule. First off make the hull. Plans copied 20 times and former transferred to plastic and cut out. The next step is to Mitch them and assemble them.
  14. Hello, Guys. More one of the my models. I built military vehicles tooand this is one of my babies: the EE-9 Cascavel (Rattlesnake, in portuguese). This light armoured is a brazillian project, with hundred units in use in the Brazillian Army (a typical weapon to development countries) and was exported to some countries, like Iraq - where it is used in the Gulf War, during the Kwait invasion by Iraq. If anyone intersting by the vehicle, is many information in the net and lets go to my mounting. I translate when there are text. "Teto do casco" - hull roof; Dianteira: front. "Lateral": side; "Reforçoss": reinforcement (this is pieces that atached the parts) The turret. This is the roof of the turret This grey paper is a thicker cardboard, glued various pieces to give correct height to the turret A view of the model, with the turret. in lapse I put the turret facing back... . The front of the tank is in the left of the picture. But I dont glued, so, no problem. Detailing the hulll. A piece of balsa wood to give heigth in the part. Part in position. This is the engine fairing. The circle is the local of the turret. The engine grid is build with cooper wire glued with supercola. More details, with balsa wood and paper. In the front, I detail the hatch of the driver
  15. Hello, people. I will post one of my mounting, in my thecnique. I build my models with paper, cardboard, various plastic parts (junk, waste, I dont know the word), metalic wires, balsa wood, schoolar glue, cyanoacrylate (super glue, or Lord know the name!!! - the language is complicated). The model was build a few years ago, and now I cant found the arquives. The model is a CH-47 in 1/100 scale, used by US Army in the Vietnam War. Starting the fuselage. I cut the pieces in cardboard and I put them toghether using a thinner piece of cardboard and schoolar glue. I continuous the mounting glueing more pieces. You see how I forme the fuselage in the curved parts I'm go cut and adapt pieces of cardboard to fit the empty spaces
  16. Here in 1/48 scale is the Norman (or NAC) Fieldmaster a 1980’s British cropduster. If ‘Norman’ sounds familiar – you are correct. Here’s a little bit of history courtesy of Wikipedia… “NDN Aircraft, which was set up in 1976 by Desmond Norman, one of the founders of Britten-Norman, the manufacturers of the Islander, to build the Firecracker trainer, designed a new agricultural aircraft. The resulting aircraft, the NDN-6 Fieldmaster was a large single-engined low-winged monoplane with a fixed tricycle undercarriage, powered by a Pratt & Whitney Canada PT6 turboprop engine” “The first prototype flew on 17 December 1981 at NDN's airfield at Sandown, Isle of Wight. TNDN moved the premises to Cardiff, Wales in 1985, renaming itself the Norman Aeroplane Company (NAC). Production finally started in 1987” “NAC went into receivership in 1988, after the production of six Fieldmasters, including the prototype. Brooklands Aerospace attempted to continue production, rebuilding one of the Fieldmasters with a more powerful engine as a specialised firefighting aircraft as the Firemaster 65” The scheme in the model is G-NACL (NACL = Norman Aeroplane Company) which undertook a sales tour of Australia in 1988. But no sales… The build has been tracked over in the Work in Progress forum. Just for a size comparison - here she is alongside an Airfix 1/48 Tiger Moth cropduster. The Fieldmaster (WS = 53ft 3", L=36ft 2") is actually bigger than a Britten-Norman Islander (WS=49ft, L=35ft 7")
  17. Hi everyone! I decided to start something new on the side and get off the F-16 I am building for a while because I am getting a bit burnt out with it to be honest. I decided to start something fresher and I thought simpler.... naive I am!! So I decided to start with the Hasegawa Mig-27 Flogger D in the 1/72: This particular release is from 2003 although I am suspecting it comes from an old old kit as a quick search in Scalemates suggests. Also the combination of raised and depressed panel lines suggests. Furthermore there some significant flash in the kit pointing to a worn out mold. So these are the sprues out of the box: Plus a clear sprue with the 2 piece canopy, which can be mounted either close or open and a couple of clear part for signaling lights on the side of the main fuselage. Some details of a few parts: Flash: Now off we go! First things first I did the research in the following websites if you wanna have a look around (best walkarounds I could find): http://scalemodels.ru/news/4987-Walkaround-mig-27-kokpit-tekhnicheskijj-muzejj-toljatti-rossija-MiG-27-Flogger-cockpit-Tolyatti.html http://scalemodels.ru/news/3565-Walkaround-mig-27k-iz-gosudarstvennogo-muzeja-aviacii-zhuljany-kiev.html http://scalemodels.ru/news/3566-Walkaround-mig-23bm-mig-27-Flogger-D-zhuljany-kiev.html http://scalemodels.ru/news/3082-mig-27k-v-muzee-aviacionnojj-tekhniki-v-borovojj.html http://scalemodels.ru/news/1737-Walkaround-mig-27-irkutsk-MiG-27-Flogger-D-Irkutsk.html ( THIS IS MY MAIN REFERENCE) http://scalemodels.ru/news/1373-Walkaround-mig-27-saratov-MiG-27-Flogger-Saratov.html I am not sure if I am missing something but first thing to strike me was the nose. Completely wrong shape, at least for the Flogger D model, which should be as follow: (http://scalemodels.ru/modules/photo/viewcat.php?id=24979&cid=567&min=60&orderby=dateA&show=12) Photo credit True that there are differences between the mig-27 models: But all those nice targeting systems on the nose (Kaira-1 system) completely non existing on the Hasegawa kit! So I set myself to fix this offend! Original nose: A bit of standard Milliput and water to shape the Kaira-1 system main structure: Sanding and reshapping will follow to lower the profile of the structure, also painted the sockets black and cut open the frontal element of the Kaira-1 using a photo-etched mini saw: Now time for the optics! Clear sprue which has been reshaped thinner and polished: Cut the tip for the frontal element of the lens (see reference picture above): A smear of CA and it is fixed! Now the second optical element at the front: This is just a clear styrene sheet cut and glued into place # Next will be covering all elements with the armoured glass windows which will be more clear styrene sheet and nose it is ready to go! I have also been working on the frontal wheel bay which again kit version is FAAAAAAAAAAAAR from reality! I will prepare another post just focusing on that one After that comes the cockpit which in the kit is mysteriously missing! As always comments / suggestions are more than welcome! Hope you like this Cheers, Alex P.S. if you wanna check my F-16 build this is the link http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234965428-172-heller-f-16-ab-old-issue-first-model-fighter/
  18. Dementors Attack the Hogwarts Express It is a little known aspect of the Second Great Wizarding War that the Order of the Phoenix occasionally used the Hogwarts Express as a means of secret communication. When required, a brave squib engineer - Cornelius Melchett - would take the locomotive, unencumbered by rolling stock, at high-speed to points all over the country conveying secret messages and items of great importance. Since he was a squib, he was not closely monitored by the Ministry of Magic and as the locomotive ran completely on muggle principles, it left no traceable magical signature. Eventually however, Cornelius's luck ran out. One evening on Ravenscar Moor he was ambushed by a patrol of no fewer than nine dementors. Although he tried to escape at speed, resistance was futile. The attack was brief and vicious, and alas, Cornelius lost his life. Today a small plaque on the footplate of the Hogwarts Express commemorates his bravery and sacrifice. It's almost two years ago since my 12 year old daughter (now 14) came to me stating that she wanted to scratchbuild the Hogwarts Express. We started in July 2019 and 'Baby Bandsaw' (sometimes her mum calls her 'Caroline') did most of the work herself, although I helped out here and there. The locomotive is mostly made of wood and brass with the wheels 3D printed by Neil; a good friend of mine without whose assistance this could not have been done. I could not be prouder of what my daughter has achieved here and must say that the final standard is far above what I thought possible when we started. Here's the story of how this model / diorama was made. I would like to thank everyone in the Britmodeller Community who offered advice, interest, encouragement or just old fashioned banter. There have been one or two stalwarts on this project who have contributed at every step of the way. To you lot - and you know who you are - I offer very special thanks indeed. Best Wishes to you all, Bandsaw Steve and Baby Bandsaw
  19. This is my most recently completed model. It's the Felday 4 - BRM as driven by Jim Clark in the 1966 Guards Trophy race at Brands Hatch, August Bank Holiday 1966. Lotus boss Colin Chapman was keen for his driver, Jim Clark, to experience 4WD, and the opportunity arose for him to drive Peter Westbury's Felday 4 in the Guards Trophy. The Felday 4 was designed and built by Westbury. It featured a 1.9 litre BRM V8 mounted back to front and delivering power to all four wheels though a Ferguson 4WD transmission system. In the race, Clark won his class in the first heat, but was black flagged for dropping oil in the second. I started with a set of 1/32 scale drawings from the July 1966 copy of Model Cars magazine. I reduced the scale to 1/43 and made several copies of the drawings. The skeleton was constructed by glueing the longitudinal and lateral shapes to 30thou plastic card. The card was cut and sanded to shape, suitable slots were cut, and the parts cemented together. The internal shapes of the wheel arches involved cutting away some of the plastic, and installing appropriate shapes from 20thou card. Plastic tube cut to half width were then added so as to locate the axles. The external skin was made from 20thou card for the flat and single curvature panels, with Milliput filler for the compound curved areas. The chassis plate was made from 40thou card, with the remaining structures made from 20thou card. The roll hoop was made from copper wire, with brass tube for the exhausts. The instrument panel, engine structure and radiator were made from various thickness pieces of plastic card with brass mesh for the radiator core, and Tameo intake trumpets on the the engine. The rear view mirror was made from scraps of plastic, with a copper wire support and lens from the spares box. I made the wheels by using a pair of SMTS Brabham BT19 front wheels as masters, and then casting resin copies. I vac-formed the windscreen, side windows and headlight covers from masters made from Milliput sanded to shape, and then polished with finer and finer grades of paper to get a nice smooth finish. The spoiler was a left-over from my Matich SR3 model, and the tyres are 018 Automodelli Studios. The seats were made from Milliput, sculpted to suit. The headlights and tail lights were AM items. Paint was Humbrol enamels throughout. Tyre sidewall decals by Marsh Models. The numbers and roundels are by Virage, the Firestone decals are from the spares box, and the J. CLARK stickers were made from Letraset on Tameo white decal with blocks of red and black decal for the Guards logo. To finish off, I painted a Denizen white metal figure to portray Clark as he raced that day. Decals (few that they are) are from an AM decal sheet by Best Balsa Kits. The figure was mounted on a BBR display base, along with the car. This was a lengthy build. I started in November 2016 and only finished it a few months ago. This was mainly due to me having to work out how to approach each stage once I got there. There was no great master plan to its construction! Thanks very much for looking. Trevor
  20. 1/72 Welsh Models P-8A Poseidon complete. The build consisted of scratch building the weapons bay, weapons mounting points onbthe wings and pylons, many of the ESM and AMS lumps and antennas. I also added various vent blow in doors and the sonobuoy tubes. I reshaped a lot of the kit supplied parts as well. Finally I added Harpoons from a Hasegawa weapons set and Mk48 Torpedoes from a Hasegawa P-3C Orion, they looked close enough to me to replicate the Mk54s the P-8 carries. Decals were from a custom sheet DekLs created by upsizing their 1/200 sheet and it was painted in mainly SMS lacquers. It is a bit rough in some parts but I have spent enough time on it and am calling it finished.
  21. Ok, so I said I would be out for a few months due to the move and the need to rebuild my workshop, still that doesn't stop me building in my mind and on the computer. As I cleared the workshop, HMS Jason had to be moved, for the third time now. I made a decision, this would be the last time I move her. I'd always said that I would complete her when I retire. Well, I'm retired now so there are no excuses. So, here is the plan. I've found many pictures I took of the build all those years ago and scanned them so the story so far can be told, it's just 18 years late. Then while I'm sorting out the new workshop and house actually, I'm going to work on fittings on the computer so that when I get back to being hands on, the process will be faster than before. Also, this one will probably be for sale at the end. The house really can't take too many 5 foot models, still that's a decision for next year, on with the story... As the Victorian navy moved away from steam and sail to pure steam the old hybrid gunboats looked very old very fast, lovely though they were. The threat of the new fast coastal torpedo boats needed countering, and so these Torpedo Gunboats were developed. Really they are like mini-light cruisers, not only capable of defending harbours and also colonial duty around the empire. In general, the idea (like many Victorian naval developments) was not a huge success, mainly due to the locomotive boilers that were used. However, Speedy, the only one of the class to be built by Thornycroft's, had more modern naval boilers and was faster and far more reliable The Alarm class was the fourth and last class to be built before the true destroyer type developed, along with turbine propulsion. These were a step change in vessels for this service and made the TGB's redundant. However, they soldiered on through the 1st world war, 2 as submarine depo ships and others converted to minesweeping duties. 4.7inch gun mounted minesweepers!! HMS Jason was laid down in September 1891, launched in May 1892 and lost to a mine in 1917. She was 230 ft long, displaced 810t and carried 2x 4.7 inch QF Elswick guns on a Mark 1 pivot mounting. She also carried 4 3prds and 3 torpedo tubes, one in the bow. As a redundant throwback, she sports a ramming bow, helpful for surfaced submarines... From a distance, the profile could be mistaken for a light cruiser Here she is in black, white and buff livery of the Victorian navy. These are the colours I shall model And again, dressed for a special occasion To give you some idea of what I hope this will turn out like, here is a contemporary builders model of a very similar vessel built in Britain for Brazil in the 1890's I love builder's models.... Why did I abandon the project all those years ago? There were a number of reasons. I started her too soon after completing HMS Medea (RFI thread coming soon). That project had taken 4 years and I dived into HMS Jason immediately afterwards, one year on, I was just a tiny bit exhausted with the whole thing and so stopped modelling and built a car instead... Also, a number of areas were not working out well enough, the bilge keels were rubbish, the deck houses were not crisp enough, my plans for internal lights were too ambitious etc etc. It all built up in my mind and so I shelved it. Now I ready to get back, sort out the problems, and get this beast finished. This is a big serous model, I actually can't wait to get back to it. Looking forward to sharing the journey Steve
  22. Hello, denizens of the dusty end of the forum. Thought I'd pop down here to show off my latest whittling project: a pre-war Peckett 0-6-0 ST. I chose it as a starter loco project as it didn't have too many wheels to carve in case I found the going a bit tough. Everythign is hand carved from wood with a few brass wire embellishments. Oh, and soeme galvanised felt nails for buffers. Hope you like "60 ton angel falls to the earth / Pile of old metal, a radiant blur"
  23. Jehlik's Armoured Vehicle 1916 In your, frankly disappointing universe, Jehlik's armoured vehicle didn't progress any further than the filing cabinets of the US patent office, but in mine it went on to a gloriously disastrous career. Why limit yourself to this pretty uninspiring reality when a quick browse through the other more interesting alternatives is significantly more entertaining. Anton J Jehlik was mad. Madder than the maddest mad thing ever to hop though madland, you'd have to be to have designed this: Silly isn't it. Sillier still when you know that the big roller is on the front and the bangy things are pointing backwards. Aaaannnyyyway…. It's generally considered that the Americans were supposed to join the WWI party in 1917. However, in 1916 they got themselves a brand new toy and couldn't wait to play with it. The original idea was for the roller-beast to be built in vast numbers in a shipyard on England’s south coast, before the British government tactfully declined, stating “There's no ******* way we want to be involved with such a studi...”, well... the details aren’t important. The contract went to a ship yard near Boston who built eleven metal monsters before they ran out of steel. The machines went through exhaustive testing to see what they could achieve, and isn't it remarkable how fast a nations jubilation can turn to despair – squashing the marching band during the military parade can sometimes do that. With great fanfare the army held a service-wide competition to pick the crew, and the losers started their training soon afterwards. Jehlik became a national hero… briefly, before changing his name and seeking asylum in Andorra where he lived out the remainder of his days breeding with sheep, sorry I mean breeding sheep. After six of them ended up keeping the Titanic company on the bottom of the Atlantic, the remaining five machines trundled ashore in France. The initial surge of joy from the French was soon extinguished after the fourth village was reduced to rubble in the attempt to get the machines to the front. Their début on the battlefield would have been a great success, but as the existence of the roller beast was difficult to hide, those cowardly Bosch had dug a long pit in front of their trenches which caused the first four behemoths to get their silly rear castors stuck. How unsporting is that? The Americans wrote a very strongly worded letter to the kaiser saying it really wasn't fair as they were looking forward to a damn good squishing. To show the strength of their feeling they even omitted the kisses from the end. The kaiser missed the post that day as he was at the bingo. Here we see the sole survivor, number 7 which also had the official name 'USLS (United Sates Land Ship) Friendly Fire' which became the only one to engage the enemy. Enabling the American to successfully take the German trench after finding the occupants helpless with laughter after seeing the roller-beast get stuck on a tiny muddy mound. The ref later ruled the American move to be off-side and they had to go back to their own hole in the ground, leaving the score nil-nil. And so Jehlik's monster was edited out of history by an embarrassed nation. Aaannnyyyway… This took about six months in total. Thanks for havin a ganders - I hope you like it.
  24. A model from 5 years ago Here is another Arup flying wing, this time the earlier -and smaller- S-2. There were at least three different configurations and color schemes; here I am reproducing the one without the wheel fairings. I have a great opinion of Bill Hannan and collaborators, my main source of info came via one article on Skyways magazine of January 1997, but I differ on the interpretation of the colors, and tend to believe, in spite of their explanations, that there were possibly three colors involved, red, black and aluminum. Just a personal interpretation, not more valid by any extent than theirs.
  25. S309, Grey Fox was one of the 7 steam gunboats built to the Denny & Sons design. They were intended to counter the S-boot threat in the channel and were the smallest RN vessels equipped with steam turbines. They were 135 ft on the waterline, 23 ft 4 inches in breadth and had a draft of 3 ft 9 inches forward. Displacing 135 tons (initially) they could make 36 knots. Grey Fox was built by Yarrow and launched in September 1941, she survived the war and was sold in 1947 They bristled with guns, of various calibres', really being armed from whatever guns were available at the time. The main armament was a HA 3inch gun of WW1 vintage, originally intended as a land-based anti-aircraft gun. The gun shield sshows was only fitted to this gun when mounted in SGB's. Grey Fox saw action in the channle and was there at D day. The following action report is taken from a thread about Grey Fox on the BMPT forum July 10th 1942. In a furious night encounter, off Etaples, Grey Fox and Grey Wolf engaged 6 German minesweepers. They sank 2 but a 3rd collided with Grey Fox with such force that everyone on her bridge was thrown on their faces and a huge hole was driven in her hull. Grey Fox struggled home, with her bows almost awash. And is backed up by this first hand account of the incident So far as I remember the almost simultaneous result was a sharp heel to starboard as the ship turned, and a burst of gunfire from our own gunners. This was followed by what my mind registered as an explosion on the port side forward. I was thrown violently out of my seat and against the ship's side. As I picked myself up the ship slowly righted itself and I have an indelible picture on my mind of seeing sea water pouring through the open watertight door in the bulkhead between the galley flat and the wardroom passage through which spare ammunition had been passed. At that precise moment there was no one forward of that bulkhead and by good fortune, or perhaps design, the watertight door closed from forward and as I pulled it together the inrush and water pressure behind it helped to shut it making it easy to knock the clips on. We were well down by the bows and I think fear of sinking was uppermost, but our forward gunner was still firing. Some minutes later the First Lieutenant came down and between us we completed shoring up the bulkhead with timbers kept at the far end of the galley flat for that purpose. I then learned from Lieutenant Erskine-Hill that what I had thought was an explosion was the sound of the German R-Boat as it rammed itself through the ship's side into the wardroom and forward messdeck. It shortly afterwards fell away and sank, leaving a large gash in our bows ... The next couple of hours or so were considerably nerve-wracking, sitting on watch with the ship very much down by the bow and wondering, apprehensively, whether the bulkhead against which I sat would hold. The level of water on the other side could clearly be seen by the condensation line which was somewhere near shoulder high, with the deck of the wireless office awash ... We were apparently wavering sluggishly all over the place but heading slowly in the correct general direction and managed to get within sight of Newhaven under our own steam. However, we could not be trusted to keep a straight course to enter harbour unaided and "Grey Wolf" took us in tied alongside. I do not remember ever being so relieved to get off watch! Daylight revealed what a remarkable escape we had had. Lieutenant Erskine-Hill solved the problem of inspecting the damage by the simple expedient of rowing the dinghy through the hole in the ship's side! Following the conclusion of the build tread Grey Fox build, here is the finished vessel in its display case and some detail shots And for a size comparison, here it is next to the Fairmile B I built last year to the same scale Fairmile B build, waterline the same Thanks again to those who followed and provided help and kind comments, Schnellboot thread starting tomorrow Steve
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