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ianwau last won the day on October 5 2019

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  1. Following with interest. I completed one of these last year as Target Tug XS587. Main headache for me was the flaps (which I fitted retracted) - no idea what I was doing wrong but quite a bit of fettling required to get fit (maybe should have read instructions!). Main memory was the contortions required to do the decalling after I'd fitted the folded wings! Have a good walkaround of the airframe at Queensland Air Museum (Caloundra Australia) if useful . https://qam.com.au/collection/de-havilland-sea-vixen-f-a-w-mk-2-txj490-c-n-110017/
  2. Fantastic! This is on my (rather long) 'to do' list - but hadn't done the research on what was required to retrofit the Hasegawa. A nice record of the journey there - with the added bonus of those 3D components. Look great - well done!
  3. Love that vacformed engine cowling - a work of art! Maybe useful to share another example. This is a 1/48 Victa R2 (L=130mm approx) - with 3 moulds vacformed off same buck. Top and bottom halves moulded in 0.75mm white, and a top half in 0.75mm clear (from which the clear canopy is cut). Each "half" has moulded well over half of the buck (more like 3/4). The fuse half that's still in situ has Banyans at front and rear - but strong suction and hottish styrene meant the plastic pretty much rejoined under the tail! Note I have relatively small vertical separation between buck and vac box - ~5mm?
  4. I think as @@Malc2 elegantly puts it, you have a risk of Banyan Tree roots if trying for a single shot - but by all means give it a go. My leaning would be to mould in two parts - port and starboard? No need to cut the master - as having it sit a little higher will be good to avoid the Banyans. As an example below, this canopy vacform still had some Banyan tree roots in unimportant area. The master you can see on the vacforming machine(!!!) is bluetacked at the moulding position.
  5. Nice work - I've been following on FB too! Definitely in the market for this one in 1/32 and 1/48 hopefully printed and posted to Australia! Have a couple of Stearman kits needing an upgrade to Wasp Junior....
  6. Some progress to report - more than I thought. The fuselage was cleaned up - quite a few coats of Milliput and plenty of sanding. included filling in the rear turret included inserting strips of 30 thou clear styrene where the cabin windows go, puttying in, then sanding, fine sanding, finer sanding, even finer sanding, polishing to produce a seamless transition from clear to not clear. Rather than using a spar for the wings... I've cut out the wing root internals. And cut a 'wing profile' out of 80 thou (2mm) styrene and glued that inside the wings, just outboard of the wing root. I've cut out a corresponding 'wing profile' also in 80 thou and glued that to the mating surface of the fuselage. This combo serves to provide quite a decent surface area for glueing the wings on - and helps preserve the wing form and give a decent foundation for the inevitable putty. The vacformed wings have a skin thickness of under 20 thou (0.5mm) so I needed to do something like this regardless of spar. The fuse and wings were set in my customary lego jig. Trickier than usual as the fuselage is all curvy, and the wings taper at leading and trailing edge AND have dihedral. Lego provided the flexibility to set this all up with some precision as shown below. I used Revell Contacta for glueing - my favourite for meatier joints (vs the Tamiya Extra Thin). and a different angle... This was allowed to set for a few days. Then elected to get the tail feathers on - the reason being the vacformed nacelles are a bit 'blobby' and are going to require some careful alignment - not only getting them 'square' but also making sure they're not lopsided above/below the wing. the vacform kit provides no indication of the position of the horizontal stabiliser. So with much cross-referencing to plans - I cut a 'slot' for it in the rear of the fuselage using a 12v engraving tool, a file and a sharp scalpel, not necessarily in that order. Likewise the vertical stabs have no indication of position - and no cutouts (or even markings for cutouts). So back to the plans. I decided to do what in woodworking is called a 'half-lap joint'. I didn't know that was what it was called - but google told me that's what I did. Basically a horizontal slot in the front half of the fin. And a corresponding vertical slot in the back half of the horizontal stab. Then slot them together and voila? Wish I'd taken a photo of that pre-glueing. Just google it if unclear. Anyway - it worked a treat to the point that it won't need putty (maybe just a tiny bit). For setting this up - I did some mods to the existing jig - opening out the tail end of the jig to accommodate some scaffolding for the tail. This is where lego comes into it's own - I already knew I had the main wings and fuse properly set up, which meant I just had to get the horizontal stabiliser, well, horizontal? And the vertical stabiliser vertical. Most of what you see in lego here is giving me sight lines to confirm everything is aligned. [Maverick providing advice in foreground] And another angle. Note the 'persuader' in the background - not required on this occasion. So here's what she looks like out of the jig. With the nacelles loosely taper into rough position (you can see they're a bit blobby) and another angle showing the underside. I have applied a code of Milliput to the wing root in these two shots. It's actually coming together better than I expected. Next steps: Nacelles - cut out wheel wells and detail (very fiddly job - not expecting I'll be going overboard as I don't plan to look at the underside very often) Fit nacelles and blend in Resolve the front glass - do I vacform the entire front nose section in clear - or take some shortcuts with Krystal Klear (or modern equivalent).
  7. I assume you'll trial the bog out on some sacrificial brass and styrene conglomeration. To check it gives the effect you want and sands out in an ever so slightly dished manner? Just for my sake! This is definitely a multimedia kit - looks like most of the modelling materials and techniques all rolled into one. Definitely enjoyable to follow.
  8. Coming together nicely! A much neglected modelling subject so looking forward to seeing everything get joined up. Must be looking forward to the rigging!
  9. Just as a bit of an aside (and there's some hints in the work I've shown thus far). This aircraft is going to be finished in a postwar civilian scheme - specifically VH-AGS, one of the many aircraft operated by Adastra Aerial Surveys in Australia. The turret has been removed, and this particular aircraft has been retrofitted with Cyclones (apparently better suited to high altitude survey work?). Plenty of camera gear in lieu of plenty of passenger seats. All very convenient when using the Contrail offering. The chosen scheme is shown below (with picture credit) - white uppers, and a subtle shade of teal/turquoise below. Adastra had 5+ Hudsons in a variety of configurations/colour scheme. In latter years, they ran with a very tasty blue/orange/white scheme - but I've decided to go the more classic route. Anyone remotely interested in civilian operation of the Hudson in this role - then I can HIGHLY recommend this website from Ron Cuskelly http://www.adastra.adastron.com/ There's enough content on there to write a book (a very thick book).
  10. I'm skipping ahead a bit (as I wasn't planning to do this as a WIP). Per the parts list in the preceding post - the main parts are vacform - with white metal pieces for engines (anaemic)-props/seats/undercarriage. Clear parts are vacformed, and there's a set of decals. Instructions are basic, including a set of 1/48 plans, some generic vacform building instructions and some text based 'hints and tips' specific to this kit. Hmmmm - "Considerable Modelling Experience Required" they say. But hey ho, let's go! Here's the main parts cut out and sanded. Just standard vacform prep technique here. The vacformed plastic is rather thin - I'm guessing 20thou or 0.5mm. Which is great for trailing edges - but will need some reinforcing for key components. Fuselage has had the cabin windows roughly cut out - but I've changed the approach here as we'll see later... And pushing ahead to gluing the main pieces. - wings are conventional - but have had the basic u/c bays cut out and boxed in prior to joining. - tail feathers are very straightforward. - fuselage. Oh dear. As supplied, the fuselage is waaaaay to narrow (and no, I did not oversand the vacform). IT's too narrow vs multiple sets of plans I have, and too narrow to fit the supplied vacform canopy (which pretty much matches the plans). So inserted a series of styrene tabs to get the required width (which will be backfilled with styrene strip.... 1` First off - a bit of interior detail - bulkheads, cabin floor etc. The cockpit section of this is partially supplied. The cabin floor is noted as a bit too high - but doesn't matter that much given what won't be seen through the cabin windows... Also, I have completely cut out the cabin window sections which are to be replaced with a strip of oversized clear styrene (which will then be sanded/filled) So skipping any interior detailing pix (hadn't planned this as a WIP) here's the fuse all stuck together. With quite a bit of encouragement. Nacelles are just roughly in position (ie not lined up). Gosh there's some work required here...
  11. I hadn't though of doing this as a WIP build - but have had a rethink: i) I had all sorts of trouble finding any build reviews of this one - and suspects there's quite a few of these in peoples stashes (either as Contrail, or the Sanger re-release). ii) hoping that actually building it will provide the impetus for an injection moulded 1/48 Hudson (Airfix?). That's invariably the way it works isn't it? Scalemates says this was originally released in 1984, then re-released by Sanger in 1992 in a new box. The Classic Airframes Hudson kit came out in 2000 - a significant step forward but almost impossible to come by this day (unless you're lucky at a Swap Meet or online 2nd hand). In frustration (at not being able to get a Classic Airframes kit) - I bit the bullet and picked this one up 2nd hand for not much at all. The original purchase price (in $AU) suggests that this wasn't a bargain basement kit at the time. Here's the back of the box. In the spirit of truth in advertising - note the warning: Not suitable for children, contains small metal parts, considerable modelling experience required. They aint kidding - as we'll find out shortly....
  12. Very impressed with the finish you've achieved there. The kit looks like a ton of fun!
  13. Wonderful discovery - both in making contact with Richard, and discovering some new facts re colour. Normally that doesn't come to light until AFTER you've finished the model! Great progress on that fuse - really interested to see how it comes together with the filler and judicious sanding.
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