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ianwau last won the day on October 5 2019

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  1. Ummm, guilty as charged your honour. The chaps doing the work needed a bit of supervision...
  2. Just a quick update - have spent a couple of hours playing with Lego - basically getting the jig set for bottom and top wing. Once the struts are fitted - this'll also serve as the jig while the rigging gets rigged. I know there's some "proper" jigs you can buy for modelling - but I rather like the flexibility (and the precision) that Lego gives you. I've positioned the a/c right on the edge of the lego board which is going to facilitate access for struts and rigging. The fuse/lower wing has been elevated - mainly to get the u/c off the ground, but also to assist access for struts. The rear of the lower wing has a solid line of Lego to push back against. Conveniently there's a couple of points on the leading edge where a Lego block happens to be 'just right' - ensuring I have nil fore/after movement of the lower wing. Dihedral is defined by some 'fractional' Lego at wingtip and mid-wing. All coming together nicely so far. I've aligned the fuse so that the thrust line is more or less horizontal - gives me a bit of a datum. You can see in this pic that there's a strip of lego running fore/aft which I've used to define the thrust line (this is removed in next pic). etc etc And another angle. Note the upper wing is just floating at the moment - nothing glued. the top wing still needs chocking at the trailing edge (fore/aft movement) - and also at each wingtip (left/right movement). For the moment - a couple of Lego chaps are doing a fine job holding top wing in position. Note I've removed some of the Lego bits that were going to get in the way of access One of the key considerations here is that once the top wing is glued/strutted/rigged - I can easily remove a few bits of Lego and slide the model out from the jig. So that's 80% of the time on preparation and hoping the strutting/rigging will not take more than the remaining 80% of time. (Going to paint first though. Oh - and cut the struttery before that...)
  3. A bit of progress.. Interior has been completed - and canopy fettling has finished and now been attached. A bit of 2-pack epoxy at the back and a touch at the front. Then some Mr.Surfacer to fill some gaps and do a bit of bonding, then some fine white Milliput to blend in. Doesn't look much at the moment but pretty happy this'll clean up with a light sand. Also visible in the pics is pre-drilling of all the holes for struts and rigging. LOTS of holes - but this'll speed up the process later and and of course assist with alignment. One small job was to represent the ribbing on the underside of upper wing fuel tank. My approach to this is to do a template in MS Powerpoint (ie 'n' equidistant lines printed on paper). then a relatively straightforward process to stick on strip styrene. In picture - strips are oversized and will be trimmed back after glue dries. The undercarriage was next on the agenda. In 1:1, each u/c leg has fore and after tube metal - fabric covered - with some attempt at aerodynamics at the trailing edge. Which I've imitated in 1.5mm styrene. I've drilled holes for brass rod at the fuse attachment points (and into the fuse) and also holes for the wheel axles. It's not that far removed from 1:1 engineering. Shock absorbers (?) are drilled scrap sprue and I've used (thickish) stretched sprue for the other components. Have also been working on the various ducts/vents on the engine cowl (wip). Anyway - here's how she'd looking at the moment. Needs a good clean up - but pretty happy with progress. One of the hardest things with this model is dealing with the excessively long wingspan. You sort of have to push your chair back to be able to flip it over etc - or risk snagging a wingtip in your left nostril. Next steps - is resolving how to deal with the wing struts. It's very much a staggered top wing - with struts going every which way. Legoland will most certainly assist in the process - just need to work out what to pre-attach to top wing vs bottom wing vs fuse. Regardless - paint is going on before the top wing is attached - way to many stripes on this to be able to deal with a delicately attached upper wing.
  4. Amazing techniques! Following with interest. great subject choice..
  5. So with my PETG (online order) not yet delivered, how do you find it compares to vacforming plain white styrene? Butyrate (to date) has been very similar to white styrene (but clear styrene has been something quite different). If that makes sense?
  6. Following with interest - have one on the bench so rather topical...
  7. Thanks for the insights re PETG. Interested to see how I go with it. I've been using butyrate for 20+ years without any issues till this latest batch. Your sample there looks pretty good - but I'm guessing by your description there's a few issues with it....
  8. The butyrate I have been using for vacforming is from "K&S" - although the latest batch I bought was forming micro-bubbles early in the heating process (before it had even properly melted) - so I've actually ordered some PETG to give that a go! PETG is apparently popular with the R/C crowd for canopy vacforming (and it seems to work well for drink bottles) The master is initially formed up from a skeleton of cross sections - top, front and sides. This is then filled in with 'car bog' - ie putty used by panel beaters on car repairs - and readily available from any of the automotive supplies stores. This is a two pack polyester putty ('golf ball' of putty + 'pea' of hardener). It is very similar in hardness to styrene which is a good thing when sanding back to the skeleton. It takes about 3-4 coats to get built up and then finished off with increasingly fine grade wet and dry (1200 should be fine enough). Sounds tedious - but the putty goes off in ~15mins and sandable within 30mins. You get a sense of how smooth the master is from some of the photos. There's some pictures early in the thread of the 'turtleback' master being formed up - which is identical process to that being used for canopy (less photos, later on in the thread). I never coat it with anything before moulding - eg a coat of primer is likely to react (badly) to the heat during vacforming. One important thing is to make the master undersize by the thickness of your final formed plastic.
  9. A bit of progress - but just the one picture to show for it.... front cowl has been cleaned up - still scratching my head about how to represent the 'grill' at the front - it's either a photo-etch solution or decalled representation. Mr. D.W. must have had a passion for 1932 Fords? Canopy has been fettled - not quite finished with it yet - but getting vewy vewy close. Interior has been cut out and fitted out with instrument panel, rather groovy headrest/rollover fairing - and all ready for a seat (experimenting with something from the spares) There's actually a semblance of an engine under the cowl - but just scraps of sprue etc. If nothing else - gives me something solid to attach the prop to! Can't see any detail from outside - so my own view is what's the point of going to town on a flat 6 Lycoming IO-540 replica. Next steps? More general clean up - then start marking out for the struts etc for the upper wing, and prepping for the undercarriage (will need that on before I start painting) Complete detailing on the wings Finish off cockpit and stick the canopy on (want to make sure I've finished drilling holes in the fuse before I do that - else there'll be swarf all over the inside of the canopy)
  10. Thanks for a great review Rod! I have mine progressing nicely (for a VH-RSP scheme RAC NSW) - and your pointers are very timely indeed.
  11. Nice bit of masking and painting! Following with interest!
  12. Marvellous research and detail (as always Derek!). Following with interest...
  13. A little more progress. The major components were sent back to Legoland for assembly. This gives a good idea of how versatile Lego can be. The lower wings have slotted back into their jig - maintaining dihedral and horizontal alignment. The fuselage is sandwiched between lego blocks - assured that it's perpendicular to the wings. Fin is in the prepared slot - and assured vertical by the lego towers sitting behind etc. Plenty of observers - some fulfilling a useful function. Glued with Revell Contacta and left to sit for ~3 days (just because I had real work to do) So onto a bit of vacforming (the masters for cowl and canopy are done). Here's one half of the cowl - straight after forming (with the home vacuum cleaner) after heating (in the home oven/grill) - and using a high-tech vacformer (a plastic container borrowed from the plastic container drawer - and drilled with umpteen hole - including a big hole for the vacuum cleaner hose). And here's the canopy... And here's what it looks like having been roughly cut out of the vacform sheet. Obviously lots of wastage here - but the styrene sheet is pretty cheap when put in bulk sheets. White styrene is 0.75mm (30 thou) and ditto the clear (which is K&S Butyrate). The upper and lower cowls have been trimmed to size and glued. And have commenced trimming the canopy. The latter requires a little care and a lot of fettling. Measure twice and cut once I think someone said? Certainly holds true for this (not real keen on having to mould a new one if I muck up). Here's a quick dry fit showing progress. Next steps - largely fitting out the cockpit. Open up the cockpit, fit instrument panel, seat, controls etc. Trim the canopy to fit. From there - need to create some semblance of an engine (won't be able to see anything - but needs a lump in there vs empty space.
  14. Marvellous modelling Derek! That 1/72 fuse framing is a work of art!! Well done!
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